Bibenda

Neromàccarj is the broodingwine from Gulfi's high-quality Nero d'Avola range. The vines are rooted in the single vineyard Màccari, a barren hilly landscape near Pachino, where calcareous clay, volcanic rock and sea breezes create a powerful, yet always balanced microclimate. The vines are ungrafted, some are over 50 years old and yields are low. The harvest by hand and the wine is matured in the traditional way: a long maceration period followed by two years of ageing in used barriques and large wooden barrels. All this with organic care – and a firm determination to bring the best of the variety into the glass.

Like a precious legacy, this wine is steeped in the history of the Serristori patrician family, who acquired the Donoratico estate in 1512 and built the magnificent villa in 1660. From the shadow of these historic walls springs a wine that embodies the soul of the Tuscan Maremma – where the salty murmur of the Tyrrhenian Sea meets the warm hills of Bolgheri. In the vineyards of Argentiera – the estate within the Bolgheri DOC that lies closest to the coast and is also the highest in elevation – the grapes ripen amidst Mediterranean scrub and the endless blue of the archipelago. Here, on just twelve hectares of the Villa Donoratico vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot take root in sandy and rocky soils, whilst the subsoil is permeated by marine flysch rock – a geological memory of seas long past.

"Nemo propheta in patria" – no one is a prophet in their own land. This Latin proverb perfectly captured the spirit of Castello di Monsanto in the 1970s, when a bitter dispute was raging in Tuscany: could international grape varieties really find a legitimate home in this historic terroir? Fabrizio Bianchi provided the answer by planting Cabernet Sauvignon in the Il Mulino plot – the very vineyard that had often caused difficulties for the early-budding Sangiovese due to its susceptibility to frost. The first vintage was harvested in 1982: a wine with a unique sense of place. Il Mulino lies at the heart of the estate's 72 hectares, at altitudes between 280 and 320 metres, in that Mediterranean sub-zone interspersed with wild cypress groves, juniper, broom, oak, laurel, heather and strawberry tree – a green lung of biodiversity that lends the vines their purest expressiveness. One hundred% Cabernet Sauvignon.

There are wines that define an appellation. And there are wines that show where an appellation can go. The Gran Selezione from Lilliano belongs to the second category. When the Chianti Classico producers created the new top of the quality pyramid in 2010, there was a great deal of scepticism: is there really a need for another category above the Riserva? Lilliano answered this question with deeds rather than words. While other estates defined their Gran Selezione with an international use of wood and concentrated opulence, Lilliano remained true to its line: tradition, terroir, typicity. The Gran Selezione comes exclusively from the two best single vineyards of the Tenuta – piagge and Casina, both situated at an altitude of around 300 metres, both characterised by the calcareous Alberese soils that make Castellina in Chianti one of the most mineral terroirs in the entire appellation. Piagge is south-facing, fully exposed to the sun, and produces Sangiovese of concentration and vigour. Casina, on the other hand, exposed to the east-south-east, produces Colorino and Sangiovese of elegance and aromatic finesse. Together they produce a cuvée of 90% Sangiovese and 5% each of Colorino and Merlot – an assemblage that seeks perfection within the rules rather than innovation.

Bordeaux grandeur meets South Tyrolean clarity: Mumelter Cabernet embodies this union in its purest form. Named after the south-facing Mumelterhof estate near Bolzano, where, at an altitude of 330 metres, weathered porphyry soils and a sub-Mediterranean microclimate allow the international varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc to develop to their full potential. This cuvée of two Bordeaux classics combines the best of both worlds: the structure and power of Cabernet Sauvignon with the elegance and finesse of Cabernet Franc.

"La Firma" – "The Signing". The names of Gerardo Giuratrabocchetti's wines are a nod to his father's career as a notary. La Firma is a single-varietal Aglianico, aged in natural caves formed from volcanic tuff, Karat and French oak barrels. A beautiful ruby red with bright violet highlights. A complex bouquet with aromas of small black berries, liquorice and hay. Powerful and very harmonious on the palate, characterised by velvety tannins and a long, balsamic finish. Excellent ageing potential! SUPERIORE.DE

Above the cellar walls of Passopisciaro lives a woman whose stories are older than the centuries-old vines she can see from her window every day. Nerina Russo, mother of Giuseppe and widow of the late Girolamo, is more than just the namesake of this extraordinary white wine – she is the living heart of a family that has given Etna all its devotion. At harvest time, when their famous dishes mingle the flavours of the kitchen with those of the fermenting grapes, it becomes clear that wines are made here out of love, not just passion. Giuseppe has created a monument to his father with the winery, but has dedicated the wine that perhaps best expresses the essence of his family to his mother. Nerina embodies the soul of the Sicilian white wine tradition – a harmonious union of all the autochthonous grape varieties of Etna, which once thrived together in the mixed vineyards of the Contrade. Seventy per cent Carricante forms the backbone, while thirty per cent Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico, Minnella and Coda di Volpe provide the multi-layered complexity that can only come from centuries-old winemaking wisdom.

Only one wine at a time bears the estate's name – and there is a reason for this. The Montecucco Rosso Riserva is the centrepiece of the estate's production: the wine that most directly expresses the estate's philosophy. Italian passion meets Swiss precision – that is how the Tipa Bertarelli family themselves describe their approach. In the glass, it impresses anew every year. 80% Sangiovese, 10% Ciliegiolo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon – grapes from vineyards on sandstone, marl and clay at an altitude of 300 metres. Spontaneous fermentation on natural yeasts in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks, followed by 16 months' ageing: the Sangiovese in 40-hectolitre oak barrels, the Ciliegiolo and Cabernet inLiters French oakLiters.

The Ca' Guicciardi vineyard takes its name from the farmhouse situated at its centre. This single-vineyard plot is characterised by small, very steep valleys. Impressive rock faces alternate with terraces supported by some of the highest dry stone walls in the Valtellina. The distinctive colour of the rock, which tends towards a quartz-like white, significantly intensifies the sun's heat, resulting in higher temperatures and more light here than in other parts of the valley.

What remains when the Prosecco goes into the bottle? The Glera marc – aromatic, fresh, full of potential. Nonino recognises this value and transforms it into a grappa that combines the lightness of Prosecco with the depth of barrique ageing. Fresh, destemmed vinacce from selected growing areas are immediately fermented and distilled in Benito's copper steam stills. Then 24 months begin in barriques and small barrels under customs seal – time enough to turn clarity into warm amber with golden reflections. The result is soft and floral: green apple and almond blossom are reminiscent of the original grape, before subtle notes of vanilla and chocolate join in. Creamy and flattering on the palate, with a hint of milk chocolate on the long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

In the 6th century AD, Cassiodorus, minister to Theoderic, King of the Ostrogoths, wrote to the treasurer of Venetia requesting a supply of a special wine for the royal table: the Acinaticum. He described it as "of such a regal colour that one might believe purple itself had its origin in it" – a wine "so dense that it is meant to be eaten rather than drunk". This forerunner of today's Recioto was already the result of the appassimento technique that continues to characterise Valpolicella to this day. The Tedeschi family, rooted in Valpolicella since 1630, preserves this heritage at Capitel Fontana.

"The Stilèma project was born as a testimony of Antonio Mastroberardino's love for his land, his vines and his wines, for their original character." Piero Mastroberardino

"Il Sigillo" - "The Seal". Gerardo Giuratrabocchetti's wines recall his father's notarial world with their names.

When Antonio Argiolas celebrated his centenary in 2006, the family created a wine in his honour that is more than just a tribute – it is the legacy of a man who had dedicated his entire life to the Sardinian soil. Antonio 100 is only produced in exceptional vintages, when nature itself gives its consent to this monumental project. The 2017 vintage marks such a moment of perfection. The best Cannonau grapes from the Tenuta's oldest vineyards are selected for this exceptional passito – vines, some of which still come from Antonio Argiolas' own plantation. The harvest is followed by a centuries-old ritual: the grapes are spread out on bamboo mats and left to dry for three months under the warm Sardinian autumn sun. This appassimento process not only concentrates the sugars, but also develops the complex flavour precursors that later give the wine its incomparable depth. The subsequent vinification takes place in small batches with the utmost precision. The dried berries are gently pressed and the precious must ferments slowly in temperature-controlled tanks before the wine matures for two years in French barriques. During this time, the unique harmony between the powerful structure of the Cannonau and the elegant sweetness of the Passito method develops.

Vigna Crivelli is one of the most renowned white wine vineyards in the South Tyrolean Unterland. Named after Count Crivelli, a leading member of an ancient noble family from Margreid, the Chardonnay thrives here on alluvial soils of fine sand with silt and clay deposits under ideal conditions. The unique microclimate of this single vineyard is characterised by strong downdrafts from the Fennberg and the daily southerly wind, the ‘Ora’, which ensures perfect aeration of the grapes. The marked day-night temperature fluctuations allow for a long ripening period with optimal aroma development. The vines are planted on low-growth rootstocks and trained using the Guyot system.

The "Sassorosso" vineyard is located on a rocky promontory that is separated from the rest of the mountain and has been almost completely eroded by the glacier over the centuries. It is visually characterised by the unmistakable red colour of the ferrous inclusions in the rock. The overlying shallow soil layer consists of clay and sand and lies on friable, metamorphic rock into which the roots can penetrate. The unmistakably elegant and mineral character of the terroir is therefore particularly evident in this Nebbiolo.

This Riserva is only made available each year in very small quantities to hand-picked specialist retailers and top restaurants. Brilliant ruby red colour. Fine raspberry and floral notes dominate the spicy nose. Very juicy on the palate, tannins and acidity are well integrated. Riecines Riserva has length and suppleness right through to the long fruity finish. The elegance and fine melting texture are impressive. Once again, this is Sangiovese at the top level that Riecine is known for! SUPERIORE.DE

Piano di Montevergine is not solely a vineyard. Hazelnut and olive trees have always stood amongst the rows of vines – a traditional Irpinian mixed-cropping system, as was customary in this region before monocultures became the norm. It is precisely from this iconic vineyard belonging to Feudi di San Gregorio that the Taurasi Riserva is produced. Taurasi is regarded as Campania's most demanding red wine appellation, holding DOCG status since 1993, grown on volcanic soils in the shadow of the Montevergine massif. The Aglianico, used here in its entirety, demands patience: 24 months in barrique, followed by at least a further 30 months in the bottle before the wine leaves the estate – more than four years from vineyard to release.

Poggio Landi comprises 75 hectares of vineyards, stretching from the historic vineyards in the north of Montalcino to the distinctive southern terraces. This expanse encompasses variations in soil, aspect and altitude – from 300 to 500 metres – providing the winemaker with a wealth of biodiversity that he utilises as if it were an instrument. The soils consist of Pliocene clays with marl, a geological composition that lends the Sangiovese structure and depth. 2019 played its part. A regular climate with no adverse conditions, a bountiful harvest of healthy, ripe grapes: what sounds so simple here is rare in Montalcino. Two weeks of spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, followed by 38 months in large French oak barrels of 30 and 54 hectolitres, and at least 6 months' bottle ageing.

Laura Brunelli's Rosso is a blend of Sangiovese grapes from Podernovone – 500 metres above sea level on the south-eastern slope of Montalcino with south-western exposure – and Canalicchio on the north side of the village. The vines for the first vineyard were planted in 1998, those for the second in 1989. "Our Rosso is made from the same grapes as the Brunello," says Laura Brunelli. The wine is traditionally aged for a year in large oak barrels. It is extremely fresh every year and not without complexity. The aromas of redcurrants, wild strawberries, black pepper and juniper are followed by a bright bouquet of red fruits on the medium-bodied palate. It has velvety tannins and a refreshing, integrated acidity. A really great interpretation of the terroir and, as every year, a little Brunello. SUPERIORE.DE

Rosso del Conte was Sicily's first answer to the question of whether the island could produce wines of international standing and longevity. Conte Giuseppe posed this question in 1970 – and the answer has been contained in every bottle produced on the high hills of Tenuta Regaleali ever since. The grapes – Nero d'Avola, Perricone and a small proportion of other varieties grown on the estate – ripen at an altitude of 480 metres, facing south-southeast, on loamy-sandy, slightly calcareous soil, trained using the Alberello system. Hand-harvested, traditionally fermented in stainless steel at a controlled temperature, 20 days on the skins, 18 months in new French barriques.