Bibenda

La Fabriseria comes across as an elegant, medium-bodied Amarone. Its intensity, tannin structure and density are hard to beat in this price range. Very juicy on the palate, full-bodied and soft, with notes of cherries, cardamom and cloves. And always with the elegant seriousness of the Tedeschi family's great flagship of the same name. SUPERIORE.DE

Tramin gave Gewürztraminer its name – and the world has since associated it with lush rose flavours, lychee and a body that likes to be heavy. Martin Foradori-Hofstätter thinks differently. With Vigna Castel Rechtenthal, he shows what this variety can do when the location is right and the winemaker does not stand in its way. The vineyard plot is located on a gravelly hill above Rechtenthal Castle, at the foot of Monte Roen – the highest peak in Tramin at 2,116 metres. The soil is an alluvial cone of dolomite gravel: permeable, cool and mineralised. The Höllentalbach stream intensifies the already fresh downdraughts that blow down from the mountain and significantly lower the temperatures at night. No other Gewürztraminer Tramin grows under such conditions.

From old vines in the best Lagrein vineyards in Gries near Bolzano comes this Riserva, which is strictly limited every year and has a seductively chocolaty, fruity bouquet. Rich, dark purple in colour with a slightly lighter rim. On the palate, it is velvety and elegant with a soft fullness and lively freshness, with further fruity accents on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE

A bold "statement wine" from the south-west coast of Sardinia: Barrua blends 85% Carignano with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – a powerful composition from old vines growing on calcareous sandy-loam soils close to the sea. The grapes are carefully harvested by hand, vinified separately and then aged for 18 months in French barriques. Following a period of rest in a concrete tank and several months' bottle ageing, the wine now displays impressive balance.

The world-famous Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer has been a true benchmark for years and is also a wine that impresses with its ageing potential. A bright yellow colour with greenish highlights. Perfectly typical of the variety – complex and deep, yet also lively and fresh with lovely nuances. The bouquet offers a wide range of aromas, from rose blossom to smoke and oriental spices. On the palate, it flows with silky smoothness, velvety and spicy, with a long finish – magnificent! SUPERIORE.DE

Sàgana – a melodious name that signifies far more than just a wine. It embodies the essence of Cusumano's work in the heart of Sicily, where the Nero d'Avola grape meets the barren expanse of the Monreale hills. The vines grow on limestone-rich clay soils in the single vineyard of Tenuta San Giacomo, whose high-altitude plots are characterised by hot days and cool nights. This microclimate lends the wine density, freshness and remarkable depth. 2020 was a year of balance in Sicily: a warm spring, a dry but not overheated summer, and ideal harvesting conditions in September. The grapes were harvested at full ripeness, rigorously selected and, following temperature-controlled maceration, aged in barriques for around twelve months. A further year of bottle ageing rounds off the structure and lends the wine its refined elegance.

The grapes for this elegant Nebbiolo come from the Ravera di Monforte vineyard, a small plot with limestone and clay soils on the south-eastern slope above the village of Monforte d'Alba. It shares its name with the famous Novello cru, but is distinct in its own right, characterised by stony soils that lend the roots depth and minerality. A brilliant garnet red with a ruby-coloured core. The bouquet opens with clear, youthful fruit: sour cherry, redcurrant and a hint of raspberry, underpinned by violets, dried herbs and a subtle hint of cinnamon. On the palate, the wine is taut and fresh, with precise acidity, ripe tannins and an invigorating, slightly salty finish. An authentic Nebbiolo from the Langhe, which clearly conveys its origin and distinctive character in the glass. SUPERIORE.DE

The Praesulis Pinot Nero is the latest addition to the Gump Hof wine family – a challenge that Markus Prackwieser has only been taking on for a few years. Because Pinot Noir in the cool altitudes of the southern Eisack Valley is a venture that requires patience and courage. The grapes grow at 550 metres above sea level on calcareous moraine soils over quartz porphyry – those steep slopes that benefit from Mediterranean warmth during the day but are ventilated at night by the cool downdraughts from the Dolomites. A week of cold maceration is followed by two weeks of fermentation and maceration on the skins. The wine then matures for twelve months in barriques with malolactic fermentation.

Vigna Spuntali is located in the south-west of Montalcino, at 300 metres, less than 30 kilometres from the sea. This is no small matter. Where other locations are characterised by continental influences, the Mediterranean reigns here: dry heat, constant ventilation, salty breeze. Olive trees, myrtle, rosemary, sea lilacs – the Mediterranean maquis begins just behind the vines. The soil consists of sandy soils of weathered Pietraforte rock, well drained, rich in minerals, warm. Sangiovese Grosso thrives here unlike anywhere else in Montalcino – riper, more voluminous, with an iodised sea breeze on the finish that is unmistakable. The Rosso Vigna Spuntali is a new chapter in the Val di Suga portfolio: a single-vineyard Rosso that expresses the character of this exceptional terroir directly and without detours. Hand-picked in the morning, fermentation lasts twelve days, followed by a ten-day post-fermentation phase. Ageing: six months in 40-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels, then twelve months in concrete vats – an ageing process that preserves freshness and develops depth at the same time. Twelve months of bottle ageing complete the circle.

In the mysterious Etruscan caves under the hill of Decugnano, a sparkling wine matures at a constant 13° Celsius, which is only produced in extremely limited quantities. Claudio Barbi produced this Metodo Classico in 1978 as the first bottle fermenter in Umbria. At that time, it was still made from Procanico and Verdello grapes. Over the years, it has developed into something even more special by using Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and extending the ageing period on the lees to 4 years. The entire production process is artisanal: riddling and disgorging are still done manually and are carried out with noticeable care and passion.

1992 was the last vintage of Boscarelli's first Riserva era. This was followed by a break of almost two decades – this was not a period of inactivity, but a lot of work and research: replanting the historic vineyards, selecting clones, researching the climatic variations of the Cervognano terroir. It was not until 2010, when the young vines of the autochthonous new plantings first showed the complexity that had been awaited, that the Riserva returned. Just like in the 1970s and 80s: exclusively from indigenous grape varieties. Prugnolo Gentile and Colorino. Vines over 20 years old from the historic core of the Boscarelli vineyards in Cervognano – calcareous, alluvial sandy soils with silt, clay, minerals and a rich stone skeleton that varies depending on the location and altitude. 6,500 vines per hectare.

Nubiola is a Barbaresco with inner tension: differentiated, unagitated, but with a clear character. The name refers to historical roots: Vitis Nubiola was the name given to Nebbiolo in the 13th century. Pelissero has revived this term – not out of sentimentality, but because it suits the style of the wine: Complexity instead of posturing, depth instead of effect. The grapes come from various plots around Treiso, on soils of calcareous marl with a fine clay content. The sites complement each other – altitude, exposure, microclimate – to create a complex but harmonious overall picture. The wine is fermented with natural yeast and matured for 18 months in large barrels and tonneaux, all with deliberate restraint so that the structure and origin remain visible.

C'eragià – which is Sicilian and means: "Once upon a time." An allusion to something improbable that nevertheless came true. Because Chardonnay on the northern slope of Mount Etna, at an altitude of 740 metres, in the Contrada Rampante – sounds like an experiment that shouldn't actually work. And yet it is exactly the opposite: proof that the volcanic soil of this mountain moulds grape varieties that behave differently elsewhere.

In 1973, Benito and Giannola Nonino revolutionised the world of grappa: for the first time, pomace was distilled in a single variety – a concept that is now standard as Monovitigno. Moscato epitomises this principle in its most aromatic form. Fresh, soft vinacce of the Moscato grape from selected growing regions ferment in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks in the absence of air. The discontinuous distillation in copper steam stills takes place with separation of the first and last run-off – only the centrepiece reaches the bottle. Maturation in stainless steel preserves the freshness and clarity typical of the variety.

Lagrein is South Tyrolean through and through. The grape variety grows almost exclusively in this region, with a genetic origin that stretches further back in history than most other Central European varieties: pre-Roman, documented in historical records and unmistakable in character. Its historical home is Gries, now a district of Bolzano, where its potential was recognised early on and which gave it its name. The Pfitscher family has its roots in Montan, a municipality in the South Tyrolean Unterland, known above all for the Mazon vineyards and Pinot Nero. The fact that a Lagrein of this calibre is also produced here demonstrates the breadth of the terroir. The Griesfeld is the most consistent expression of this: 15 months in small oak barrels, which lend the Lagrein character and refined spice without overpowering it.

Dark ruby with purple reflections. In the appealing bouquet finely spiced underlaid ripe fruit, delicate blackberry, cassis and dried herbs. Fresh, elegant and very complex on the palate, with mineral and chalky nuances. As it progresses, silky tannins and a subtle, sweet fruit, very well structured and with a cherry-like finish. Blumeri is undisputedly the winery's red flagship and gets better with each year of bottle ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

"Courageous, headstrong, rebellious" – is how Arianna Occhipinti describes the wine that most resembles her. Frappato, this quintessentially Sicilian grape variety of rural origins, is rooted here in calcareous sandy soils at the foot of the Monti Iblei. Forty-year-old vines near Vittoria, at an altitude of 280 metres, cultivated biodynamically. The winemaking process follows the rhythm of nature: spontaneous fermentation in concrete, thirty days" contact with the skins, then fourteen months" ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels. Bottled unfiltered, the wine retains its vibrant authenticity.

When Franco Pola bottled the first bottle of his Barbaresco Bordini in 1970, he not only wrote the beginning of a family story, but also symbolised the connection between man and vineyard that lasts for generations. The vineyard bears the same name as the street on which the winery stands – via Bordini 15 – and this geographical coincidence harbours a deeper truth: here, where the winery building looks directly onto the south-east-facing slope, family and terroir are inextricably interwoven. On sandy limestone/clay soil, 280 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo vines 50 to 60 years old take root – one hectare of which is even over 70 years old and ungrafted, a living link to the time when Franco's father Secondo still ran the farm as a farm.