Bibenda

When a woman who brought Valpolicella wines to the world as "Lady Amarone" acquires a vineyard in Montalcino in 2007, it is not to repeat the tried and tested, but to break new ground – but to break new ground. Marilisa Allegrini, the first Italian woman on the cover of Wine Spectator and named "Cavaliere del Lavoro" in 2020, now runs San Polo together with her daughters Carlotta and Caterina. The estate is located on the south-eastern flank of the hill, in Podernovi, at an altitude of around 450 metres – where the extinct volcano Monte Amiata protects the vineyards from hot winds and has left behind pyroclastic soils that give the Sangiovese an unmistakable mineral signature.

Gewürztraminer is one of the aromatic icons of South Tyrol, and Franz Haas interprets this demanding grape variety with the precision of a perfectionist. The vines thrive on Guyot vines between 350 and 650 metres above sea level, where skeletal clay soils facing south-west create ideal conditions. These medium altitudes preserve the balance between aromatic opulence and fresh structure – this is crucial for a Gewürztraminer that does not suffocate in overripe heaviness. After a short maceration period, the must ferments at low, controlled temperatures in stainless steel. Six months of ageing on the fine lees follow, with the yeast being stirred weekly – an effort that gives the wine a creamy texture and additional complexity. This patient yeast work clearly distinguishes Franz Haas' interpretation from simpler Gewürztraminer wines, which are bottled after just a few months.

A Catarratto with character: Beleda comes from organically farmed vineyards near Alcamo, where cool nights and the proximity to the sea give the wine freshness and flavour. The wine is matured for around eight months in stainless steel tanks, with a few months resting on the fine lees – for structure, subtle fullness and elegance. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a silvery-green sheen. The nose opens with white flowers, citrus fruit, green apple and a fine salty note. On the palate, the vintage is lively, balanced and has a pleasantly juicy texture. The fruit remains subtle, the minerality dominates – a Sicilian white wine with a clear style and refreshing drinkability. Ideal with seafood, grilled vegetables or young/medium-aged sheep's milk cheeses. SUPERIORE.DE

The Turmhof Castle Winery in Entiklar near Kurtatsch is one of the most traditional family businesses in South Tyrol. Christof and Sabine Tiefenbrunner are now the fifth generation to run the winery – with vineyards that range from 220 to over 1,000 metres above sea level and offer the ideal location for every variety. This Gewürztraminer combines grapes from two characterful sites between 220 and 350 metres: Entiklar/Margreider Leiten with limestone gravel soils from moraine deposits facing south to south-east and Brenntal/Frauenriegel, where red, sandy loam soil faces east. This combination gives the wine both aromatic depth and mineral freshness.

Steep cliffs, gentle slopes of calcareous clay soil, the rough blue of the Adriatic Sea just above the vines ... welcome to the Conero, one of the most renowned terroirs in the Marche region! From the heart of this landscape comes Cùmaro, a passionately cultivated, richly structured Montepulciano that Umani Ronchi has been vinifying as a Riserva since the mid-1980s. In the glass, it presents a dark ruby colour with a purple hue. The bouquet is intense and multi-layered: ripe plum, blackcurrant and cassis intertwine with notes of black pepper, vanilla and fine tobacco – all in a powerful, spicy frame. The palate is characterised by dense concentration while remaining warm and enveloping. Smooth, integrated tannins carry the broodingfruit flavour, which glides into a long, elegant finish – with hints of chocolate and spicy dryness.

"The grapes come from the highest vineyard on our estate, in Monforte d'Alba, at an altitude of around 530 metres above sea level. Here, the climatic conditions guarantee the freshness and acidity that make Riesling one of the most famous grape varieties in the world and one of our great passions." Franco Massolino

Livio Felluga's Friulano is very fresh and tropical, with nuances of sour melon, young mango and white smoke forming its attractive bouquet. It impresses with a lively acidity that balances the silky texture and ripe fruit, and with a spicy herbal note that gives it unexpected depth. Perfumed and fresh to the final, leaving a pleasant mouthfeel, with hints of bitter almond but also a gentle streak of residual tension. Very nice. SUPERIORE.DE

An island within the island. This is what Giuseppe Benanti called Etna, the world he opened up for himself in 1988 as a pioneer of modern Etna wines. Today, his sons Antonio and Salvino are continuing his legacy as the only winery with vineyards on all four slopes of the volcano. The Etna Bianco combines 100% Carricante from the eastern and southern slopes, where altitudes between 700 and 950 metres, volcanic sandy soils and pronounced day-night fluctuations create ideal conditions. The 20 to 60-year-old vines grow partly as traditional Alberello, partly on trellis wire. Hand-picked in mid-October, gently pressed, fermented for twelve days at 18 °C in stainless steel with the estate's own Carricante yeast selected from Etna vineyards. Maturation on fine lees and brief rest in the bottle.

A Sauvignon Blanc from the Collio that seduces rather than provokes. Pale straw yellow with a green tinge in the glass. The nose is complex but never overpowering: elderflower, grapefruit, green pepper, whitecurrant and a hint of sage. Juicy and precise on the palate, with lively acidity, firm structure and cool mineral depth. The maturation in stainless steel tanks emphasises the clarity and aromatic tension of the wine, without tipping over into a garish "gooseberry" flavour. A stylistically finely balanced Sauvignon that brings the potential of the Collio into the bottle with quiet sophistication and authentic terroir expression. Good ageing potential, as is to be expected with all Livio Felluga whites. SUPERIORE.DE

The Serpara is elegant, intense and long-lasting every year. Its grapes come from a single vineyard and the wine matures in a combination of new and used French Allier oak barrels. In the glass, it exudes aromas of blackberries, tobacco, sage, thyme and a hint of smoked meat. It has a soft, almost creamy texture and juicy acids that keep the balance, while ripe black fruits and minerals move effortlessly across the palate. The bold tannins make their presence felt on the final, but are more of an accent that frames the experience well, while hints of dark chocolate and balsamic spices slowly fade away. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for Vignota come from five selected vineyards in Monforte d'Alba, whose calcareous marl soils with loamy and sandy inclusions give the Barbera grapes expression and depth. Bright ruby red colour with a purple hue. Aromas of ripe cherry, blackberry and plum, underpinned by violets, herbs and a hint of liquorice. Juicy and balanced on the palate, with present, well-integrated acidity and soft, fine-grained tannins. After fermentation, the wine matures for several months in used French barriques, which gives it additional harmony and fine spicy notes. An exciting and very serious Barbera with a regional profile and good structure. SUPERIORE.DE

2023 was a year of contrasts in Friuli: after a changeable spring, a warm summer with sporadic rainfall and a cool, dry September made for exceptionally well-balanced grapes. These conditions particularly favoured the late-ripening Ribolla Gialla – which is clearly noticeable in this cru. The wine comes from the historic Zuc di Volpe vineyard – a hill with old vines, clayey marl soils and a striking south-east exposure. Maturation in stainless steel with prolonged ageing on fine lees preserves the varietal typicity and at the same time gives the wine depth and suppleness.

Solicchiata, northern slope of Mount Etna, 800 metres. The Faro family has dug deep into the volcano here since 2005 – literally, because the sandy soils of weathered lava rock allow roots to travel far. 100% Nerello Mascalese, Alberello, vines between 50 and 65 years old. Hand-picked, two weeks of maceration, three months in fine-grained oak barrels. Not a wood wine – a volcanic wine. Brilliant ruby red colour in the glass. The nose opens dark and complex: boysenberry, crushed black cherry, wild flowers, ash, a hint of rosemary and thyme, pink pepper. Silky and medium-bodied on the palate – juicy acidity, fine tannins, a persistent mineral flavour. The finish is long and tense, with a tart cherry flavour that lingers. Not an easy entry-level wine, but a beautiful red with substance and good potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Riecine's Chianti Classico can be described without exaggeration as an archetype of the Gaiole terroir: Bright in the glass with wild fruits, blackberries and white pepper. These slightly wilder flavours are very specific to Gaiole in Chianti, particularly this corner of the sub-zone near the village after which it was named. This cool location produces a sharp and elegant Sangiovese with tension and crispness, savoury tannins, the return of small black fruits and a respectable finish. Riecine has been producing one of the most subtle Chianti Classico wines for years - a marvellous wine. SUPERIORE.DE

A wine that bears its creator in its name: "Birba" – little cheeky bastard – is what they called Sergio Rossi, the visionary founder of La Gerla. What began as an experiment became a homage: a Brunello that follows all the rules except those of the wooden barrel. Instead of maturing in the large Slavonian vats like its noble siblings, the Birba spends up to fourteen months in French barriques from Allier and the Vosges, a third of which are new – a third of them new. The thirty-year-old vines on the slopes of Canalicchio, between 270 and 320 metres above sea level, produce tiny yields of just 50 quintals per hectare. Fifteen days of maceration extract substance and depth before the wood leaves its spicy signature.

Brolio Riserva is the flagship of Italy's most traditional winery – a wine that bears the signature of the Ricasoli family year after year and at the same time captures the extraordinary diversity of the Brolio terroir. The 100% Sangiovese grapes come from the five characteristic soil types of the estate between 280 and 480 metres above sea level – a terroir mosaic of sandstone, Galestro, Alberese, marine and fluvial deposits that lend the wine exceptional complexity. After controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks with 12 to 16 days of maceration, the wine matures for 18 months in first and second passage tonneaux before resting for a further three months in the bottle. Intense ruby red in colour with garnet reflections, the bouquet combines ripe black cherry, spicy notes and an elegant hint of vanilla. A generous fullness unfolds on the palate, supported by silky tannins and lively freshness – a harmonious, multi-layered Chianti Classico that perfectly balances tradition and international elegance. SUPERIORE.DE

What distinguishes a Riserva from an Annata? Time. Time to select the best Sangiovese grapes from the estate's twelve plots. Time for a 25-day vinification process that is conducted with the utmost respect for tradition. And time for at least 21 months in French oak barrels, followed by further bottle ageing before the wine leaves the estate.

Donnafugata's impressive declaration of love to Etna, currently the hottest wine hotspot, began with the Sul Vulcano line. Carricante is one of the most exciting grape varieties in southern Italy, capable of complexity and terroir-driven expression in the right soils. The vines for Donnafugata's only white wine from Etna grow on volcanic soils rich in minerals at an altitude of 700-750 metres. The wine is fermented in steel tanks before maturing partly in concrete tanks and partly in second and third choice barriques for 10 months and then a further nine months in the bottle.

The name means "motherland" – and the Tedeschi family has indeed found a special spot of land with the 84-hectare vineyard between Tregnago and Mezzane di Sotto, which they acquired in 2006. Extensive soil mapping identified real crus here, including the Impervio vineyard – named after its impassable steep slope at an altitude of 400 metres. White and yellow limestone marl of moraine origin characterise the terroir and give the wine its characteristic freshness. Corvina (40%), Corvinone (30%) and Rondinella (30%) are harvested overripe in mid to late October and fermented as whole bunches – a conscious decision for structure and depth of flavour. After 20 days of maceration, the wine matures for 18 months in Slavonian oak and a further six months in the bottle.

The first year of production of the single-varietal Merlot Clos Roareti dates back to 2004. The grapes are harvested from the 2 hectare historic Rovereti vineyard in Negrar. In this 100-year-old vineyard, which is surrounded by equally old walls, Merlot has been cultivated since the 1990s and is perfectly adapted to the climate and the red clay soil. The palate is rich and full-bodied with complex and very aromatic notes. Maturation in oak barrels gives this wine its special flavour and certain opulence. SUPERIORE.DE

A wine of origin and rarity value – ferentano is a pure white wine made from the old Roscetto vine, cultivated around Montefiascone on Lake Bolsena. The very thick berry skins store intense flavours, while the controlled ageing (including barrique) combines purity and depth. Medium straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. Exotic notes of banana, pineapple and ripe peach on the nose, combined with vegetal accents and a hint of vanilla. Rich and soft on the palate, with plenty of substance, balancing acidity and a long, red fruit finish – perfectly animating and without sweetness. An inimitable white wine with a surprising fullness and elegant structure – a Roscetto that is authentic through and through! SUPERIORE.DE