Cantina Nals Margreid

Riesling needs altitude. Not always, but in South Tyrol it does – and the Pitzon gets it: 500 to 750 metres above Nals, on the right bank of the Adige, where the temperatures drop noticeably at night and the vine is allowed to retain its acidity. This is also where the decisive tension of this wine lies: Mediterranean warmth during the day, Alpine freshness at night. The Riesling captures both. The soils of porphyry and limestone – volcanic primary rock meets marine limestone – give the wine its mineral undertone. East-south-east orientation, hand-picked, three weeks of fermentation at cool temperatures in steel tanks, seven months of maturation on the fine lees. Cellar master Schraffl keeps a low profile – the wine itself says what it has to say.

Merlot in South Tyrol – this may sound like a misunderstanding, but it is one of the most convincing arguments in favour of the versatility of the southern lowlands. Margreid, the southernmost corner of the winery, supplies the white wine grapes to Gennen and Magred. The same soil, the same climate, the same ora – is used by Levad for something completely different. White limestone gravel soil with a high humus content, 220 to 350 metres, south-east exposure. Warm summers, mild winters, the daily afternoon wind from Lake Garda. Conditions that allow Merlot to fully ripen without suffocating it in opulence. Hand-picked, careful destemming, fermentation in steel tanks with gentle pumping over – then twelve months in barriques and a further year of bottle ageing. The ageing gives structure, the soil gives minerality, the climate gives depth.

Cabernet Sauvignon is considered a traveller – an international grape variety that arrives everywhere and rarely really settles down. In Margreid, it does. Lafot Riserva is not a cosmopolitan Cabernet here, it is a South Tyrolean one. The vineyards at the foot of the slope of Margreid, 220 to 350 metres, south-southeast, white limestone gravel soil with deep humus – it is the same terroir that gives Levad Merlot its minerality. Cabernet Sauvignon, however, needs more time to open up: Hand-picking, destemming, fermentation in steel tanks with gentle mash agitation, then twelve months in barriques and a further year in the bottle. The result is not a quick wine.

In Nals, there is a phenomenon that rarely occurs elsewhere with such intensity: the Venti di Caduta – the downdrafts that plunge down from the mountains and can lower the daytime temperature by up to 20 degrees. Hot days, freezing cold nights – all within a matter of hours. For the Sauvignon Blanc, this means maximum ripeness of the fruit during the day and maximum preservation of acidity and aromatics at night. A microclimate that keeps this grape variety on its toes. Added to this is a soil that is unrivalled in terms of depth and composition: a 150-metre-deep alluvial fan, built up over millennia by the Sirmian and Nals streams, consisting of 70 per cent limestone gravel and 30 per cent porphyry debris. Two geological worlds that lend the Sauvignon both mineral rigour and aromatic depth. Facing east-southeast, at an altitude of 330 to 400 metres, this is the heart of the Nals terroirs.

At some point in the history of Nals Margreid, the Gambero Rosso even declared Sirmian to be the best white wine in Italy. We are not surprised. Above Nals, in the Sirmian district, the slopes lie between 500 and 700 metres above sea level. South-east facing, alpine climate: mild summers, cool autumns, a long growing season that ends in mid-October with the harvest. The soil is a geological archive: Permeable glacial moraine of limestone, gneiss, mica, slate and marble, deposited millions of years ago by glaciers in the Western Alps, resting on porphyry, the volcanic bedrock of the bedrock.

The vineyards for the 100% Pinot Noir Riserva are located in the Überetsch region between 350 and 450 metres above sea level and face south-west. The soil is a compact, dense moraine soil made up of sediments from the Ice Age, calcareous, loamy and rich in minerals. Bright ruby red in colour, with a bouquet of redcurrants, raspberries, strawberries and hints of sage. Taut and very polished on the palate, its spicy tannins flank its beautiful depth and very appealing length. SUPERIORE.DE

From old vines in the best Lagrein vineyards in Gries near Bolzano comes this Riserva, which is strictly limited every year and has a seductively chocolaty, fruity bouquet. Rich, dark purple in colour with a slightly lighter rim. On the palate, it is velvety and elegant with a soft fullness and lively freshness, with further fruity accents on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE

One of the really great Chardonnays from South Tyrol: bright, intense light golden yellow in colour. In the powerful yet harmonious Chardonnay Baron Salvadori, the aromas of fine vanilla cream and ripe fruit change in quick succession. Fresh and round on the palate, the accentuated fruit is accompanied by balanced acidity, a fine salty vein and well-integrated wood spice. SUPERIORE.DE

It could easily be mistaken for a very high-quality St.-Emilion from a cooler vintage: a compact and finesse-rich Merlot-Cabernet from old vineyards and vinified according to traditional methods. Deep dark red in colour, with complex, berry aromas on the nose. On the palate, the Cuvée Anticus impresses with pleasantly ripe fruit, velvety tannins and a wonderful texture. Lush and almost endless finish! SUPERIORE.DE

NA for Nals, MA for Margreid. A tribute to two outstanding vineyards where something special can be felt, seen and felt and which have inspired cellar master Harald Schraffl to create something equally special from their grapes. A wine and the essence that expresses the essence of the small parcels in its purest form, whose typicity tells the story of the South Tyrol of tomorrow, a timeless wine with recognition value in an international context.