Wines from South Tyrol and Trentino

Pinot Grigio has an image problem. Somewhere between mass-produced Veneto wine and an international run-of-the-mill wine, the impression has been created that it is a wine without ambition. If you want to correct this impression, look to South Tyrol. In the Alto Adige, the variety – originally from Burgundy – has found a terroir that gives it what it doesn't get elsewhere: cool nights, altitudes between 300 and 500 metres, calcareous soils, alpine precision. Cellar master Hans Terzer, who has been one of the defining figures of South Tyrolean white wine for decades, has clearly formulated the line: clean, varietally pure, clear in tonality. The St. Michael-Eppan winery, founded in 1907 and supported by 340 member families, has turned it into one of its best-selling wines – and rightly so. 100% Pinot Grigio, fermented and matured exclusively in steel.

A Pinot Gris as it finds its most beautiful expression in the South Tyrolean lowlands. Peter Zemmer selects the best grapes for this wine from vineyards on the valley floor and steep slopes around Kurtinig. The special microclimate, the calcareous gravel soils from moraine sediments and the sandy alluvial soils create optimal conditions for this noble Burgundy variety. The "Ora", the warm southerly wind from Lake Garda, ensures perfect aeration of the berries and guarantees healthy, fully ripe harvest. Maturation on the fine lees for several months gives the wine complexity and a creamy mouthfeel.

Full-bodied yet refreshing – this is how Peter Zemmers’ Chardonnay from the finest vineyards around Kurtinig in South Tyrol’s Unterland region presents itself. The vines, grafted onto low-growth rootstocks and trained using the Guyot system, benefit from their favourable location in the valley floor, ideal sunlight and good air circulation around the grapes. The hand-picked grapes are left to macerate on their skins for a few hours in a cool place before pressing – a step that transfers the fruity aromas from the skins into the must and intensifies the bouquet. Following gentle pressing and natural sedimentation, fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature of 19 °C in stainless steel tanks.

South Tyrol's soul in a glass. The Vernatsch – italian Schiava – is the most widely cultivated red wine variety in the region and is currently experiencing a renaissance in quality. Peter Zemmer grows this autochthonous grape variety on the calcareous clay and gravel soils of the sun-drenched slopes around Kurtatsch, traditionally cultivated on the pergola – the typical pergola shape that has characterised the South Tyrolean landscape for centuries.

Appiano is the largest wine-growing community in South Tyrol – and the St. Michael-Eppan winery is its centrepiece. Together, 330 member companies cultivate 385 hectares on sunny slopes between 250 and 900 metres above sea level. What unites them is not just the geography, but the conviction that quality is created in the vineyard – and that Eppan offers the right conditions for this. The Chardonnay grows at around 400 metres above sea level along the famous South Tyrolean Wine Route, on moraine soils from the Ice Age – calcareous, well-aerated, with a natural ability to ripen slowly. Hand-picked, processed in stainless steel: fresh and typical of the variety.

Pinot Bianco is the most cultivated white wine variety at the St. Michael-Eppan winery – and there is a reason for this. At altitudes of 480 to 650 metres in the municipality of Appiano, the grape variety finds exactly what it needs: calcareous gravel soils with a light clay content, south-east exposure and the cool night winds that blow down from the Mendel Mountains. These winds are the invisible tool of the terroir – they slow down the ripening process and maintain the freshness that distinguishes Pinot Bianco at this altitude from all others. Hand-picked, vinification in steel. Typical of the variety, clean, easy to drink.

Founded in 1889 by Pastor Christian Schrott, the Tramin Winery is today one of the most renowned co-operative wineries in Italy – supported by around 270 winegrowing families who cultivate their vineyards around Termeno, Neumarkt, Montan and Auer. Oenologist Willi Stürz, who has been at work since the 1990s, has turned this collective strength into a portfolio that has won many international awards. His credo: purity and terroir character – not a word too much in the cellar. The Pinot Bianco grows on chalky and clayey soils with gravel and crushed stone, between 250 and 500 metres above sea level.

Pinot Grigio is the most widely cultivated white wine variety in South Tyrol – and at the same time the most misunderstood. Anyone who thinks it only knows one note has not yet drunk one from the vineyards around Termeno. The Tramin winery gets the best out of this grape variety: calcareous clay and gravel soils, altitudes between 200 and 400 metres and the temperature fluctuations between day and night that are typical of the valley. This is what gives the Pinot Grigio its tension. Vinified in steel tanks, with careful temperature control – no wood, no distractions. What ends up in the glass is the location.

The Tramin winery, founded in 1898 and today one of the most renowned cooperatives in South Tyrol with over 300 members, vinifies this Chardonnay from vineyards between 240 and 500 metres above sea level in the municipalities of Ora, Tramin and Egna. The calcareous, loamy, gravelly soils and the marked day-night temperature fluctuations of the Alpine region give the grapes their characteristic intensity of flavour.

Terraced vineyards at an altitude of 600 metres surround the traditional Liebrain farm in the Isarco Valley, where Silvaner has found its home for over two centuries. Weathered porphyry soils and extreme day-night temperature fluctuations give this crystal-clear white wine its purist character. The late harvest between the end of September and the beginning of October allows for optimal ripeness while maintaining the typical freshness.

Vernatsch is South Tyrol in its most honest form. The autochthonous red wine variety – also known as Schiava – has accompanied the South Tyrolean wine route for centuries: light, easy to drink, uncomplicated in the best sense of the word. Not a wine that wants to impress. One that invites. Tiefenbrunner has been cultivating it since 1968 on three different sites between 220 and 650 metres – calcareous dolomite soils in the high altitudes of Penon, Hofstatt and Rain, limestone gravel soils from moraine deposits in Entiklar and on the Margreider Leiten, red sandy loam in Brenntal and Frauenriegel. Each site has its part to play. Vinified in concrete vats and large wooden barrels – the only use of wood in the entire Merus line.

Professor Hermann Müller's legendary cross between Riesling and Madeleine Royal finds its alpine perfection on Andrian's calcareous dolomite soils between 500 and 700 metres. The east-facing slopes provide the temperature-sensitive grapes with morning freshness. Temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel, followed by six months of ageing on the lees, provides additional texture.

The autochthonous Lagrein grape grows in the middle hills between 250 and 400 metres, where clay meets calcareous inclusions, to produce one of the most characterful rosés in South Tyrol. The traditional Tramin winery, founded in 1898 by the visionary priest Christian Schrott, preserves a centuries-old South Tyrolean tradition with its Lagrein Kretzer. Pink to light ruby red in colour, the wine shimmers in the glass and develops a delicate, pleasantly fruity bouquet. The extreme interplay between sunny, Mediterranean-influenced days and cold down winds from the mountains gives it that lively freshness that is stimulating and invigorating on the palate. A classic South Tyrolean rosé with an authentic character. SUPERIORE.DE

A white wine from the heights. Peter Zemmer's Müller Thurgau thrives at 800 metres above sea level on terraced slopes in the South Tyrolean lowlands. The cross between Riesling and Madeleine Royal – named after the Swiss botanist Hermann Müller from the canton of Thurgau – finds ideal conditions here on calcareous gravel soils from moraine sediments. The exposed altitude, gentle slope and optimal sunlight ensure that the grapes ripen slowly and evenly.

Andrian's Burgundian classic finds its southern Alpine interpretation between 300 and 500 metres on calcareous clay-dolomite soils. These lower-lying sites offer the Pinot Bianco optimal ripening conditions: early morning sunshine with sufficient coolness for the thin-skinned, pressure-sensitive berries. Temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel and six months of refinement on the fine lees give Finado its characteristic texture and complexity.