Wines from Sicily

Limited anniversary edition with a special label to celebrate the birthday of the icon of modern Sicilian viticulture: 30 years of Planeta Chardonnay – and the label is on fire to mark the anniversary. Not really, but almost: "On Fire" is the name of Claire Fontaine's work, which adorns the 2024 vintage in a limited edition. Founded in Paris in 2004 and based in Palermo since 2017, the artist collective – whose work "Foreigners Everywhere" gave the Venice Biennale 2024 its title – has turned the flame emoji into a light sculpture: detached from the digital, it has become physical and irritatingly beautiful. The original hangs in Ulmo's Studiolo, just a few steps away from the Chardonnay vines. The special edition appears on 300 Jeroboams – and only one of six 0.75 litre bottles per 6-bottle carton bears the art label. The proceeds will go towards "A Long and Magnificent Walk", a greening project in the archaeological park of Selinunte: a symbolic act against the fires that threaten Sicily every summer. In this way, an anniversary becomes a statement – and a Chardonnay becomes a manifesto.

Chiarandà is Donnafugata's great white solitaire, a Sicilian Chardonnay with an unmistakable format and clear terroir profile. The grapes come from selected plots around Contessa Entellina, at an altitude of around 350 to 400 metres. The Mediterranean climate is characterised by hot days and cool nights, while the clay and limestone soils offer the best conditions for ripeness with structure. The grapes are harvested exclusively by hand, selectively and early in the morning. One part of the wine is matured in stainless steel tanks, the other in French oak, where malolactic fermentation also takes place. The assemblage is followed by extended bottle ageing of at least two years – careful ageing with a view to longevity.

Proud single-vineyard Sicilian in a small edition made from 100% Carricante. Fine bouquet of citrus fruits and apricots. Wonderfully juicy fruit on the palate paired with good structure, balanced acidity, fine minerality and appealing length. SUPERIORE.DE

Contrada 2020 is a monumental Nero d'Avola that tells the story of old vines. Grown in Bastonaca, near Vittoria, these vines are rooted in mineralised red clay soils infused with limestone and silicate – this is the fundamental terroir that COS works out biodynamically with clear standards, as 100% Nero d'Avola from over 50-year-old Alberello vines is cultivated exclusively organically. After spontaneous fermentation, the wine matures in small oak barrels – an ageing process that adds depth and spicy finesse without drowning in wood.

Rosso delle Fontane from the single vineyard of the same name beguiles with its light ruby red colour and subtle scent of dark cherries, followed on the palate by redcurrant, hints of tar, suede and a well-measured amount of Amarena cherry. Salty-mineralic, never-ending finish. Highly elegant in its entirety and packaged with COS's own noble restraint. Burgundian greatness and a beacon of the Vittoria DOC appellation! SUPERIORE.DE

Ruby red colour with violet reflections. Intense, complex bouquet with notes of Mediterranean citrus fruits, followed by aromas of violets, bergamot, wet stone, forest leaves and elegant hints of white pepper. Velvety, harmonious and fresh on the palate with sustained acidity and a clean, spicy and long finish. Highly elegant, very accessible and with a beautiful fruit component. SUPERIORE.DE

The organically grown Etna Rosso Reseca is made from 100% Nerello Mascalese from a 1.5 hectare vineyard located at 800 metres above sea level on the blackened cone of the volcano. The wine offers both power and grace, the two contrasting qualities that characterise the great wines of Etna.

Deep, bright ruby red colour. Stunning aromas of floral dark berries, flint and attractive aromatic spices. Then fresh and juicy, but with a creeping concentration of blue and black fruit flavours, lifted by a zesty minerality and lively, harmonious acidity. The spicy, long finish is reminiscent of cloves, black pepper and coriander. A great wine, and we know now at the latest: The Catania family has a real knack for Cerasuolo di Vittoria. SUPERIORE.DE

High up on the southern slopes of Mount Etna, where the Contrada Manzuedda in Biancavilla rises 900 metres into the sky, lies an extraordinary vineyard, as old as the dreams that gave birth to it. Here, between the eternal snow of the peaks and the flames of the volcano, where the first Carricante vines sank their roots into the volcanic earth in 1950, A' Puddara, "the hen", is born. This is what the Sicilians call the Pleiades in dialect, the seven sisters in the firmament that shine from the sea above the volcanic peak in summer. Silvia Maestrelli, the visionary pioneer of Fessina who sadly died far too early, dedicated the starry sky of her Sicilian nights to this wine, a fitting tribute to this island of dreams and fire.

A wine like a manifesto: Della Bastonaca is the quintessence of the COS philosophy, grown on the historic estate in Bastonaca near Vittoria – where up to 75-year-old Alberello vines of Nero d'Avola and Frappato stand on calcareous red clay, criss-crossed by quartz veins and the constant presence of Mediterranean air. Biodynamics is not a statement here, but a lived practice – for decades, each vintage has been vinified in harmony with nature at the right rhythm. The 2020 vintage brought the best conditions: A spring with sufficient moisture, a warm but not overheated summer and cool nights during the ripening period created the ideal balance of vigour, freshness and aromatic precision. Selective hand-picking, spontaneous fermentation on the skins and careful ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels for 24 months – these are conscious decisions that together result in a wine of quiet greatness.

In the Val di Noto, where the lime-white bagli of Tenuta Zisola are enthroned between almond trees and olive groves, one of the most extraordinary tributes to the history of the Mazzei family is being created. Effe Emme – two letters sewn into a customised wine like precious initials, bear the name of one of the most fascinating pioneers of modern times: Filippo Mazzei. On the limestone-rich soils of Noto, at an altitude of 130 metres in a south-easterly exposure, the unique characteristics of the terroir meet a rare grape variety: Petit Verdot in absolute purity. This French variety, which has found a new home here in the south of Sicily, is hand-picked at the end of September and fermented at 28-30°C, followed by a 14-day maceration. The Effe Emme is matured for around 16 months in 225 Liters French oak barrels.

Behind Noà is Cusumano's vision of a Sicilian red wine of international calibre, rooted in the barren highlands of Presti e Pegni near Monreale. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Nero d'Avola thrive on calcareous, stony soils at an altitude of around 300 metres – a place where the heat of the day and the coolness of the night allow a precise interplay of ripeness and freshness. In the glass, Noà is a dark ruby colour with violet hues. The bouquet reveals a complex composition of ripe blackcurrants, sour cherries, blackberries and dried plums, underpinned by notes of espresso, cedar wood, tobacco and dark cocoa. Powerful and structured on the palate with velvety tannins, a supple texture and the characteristic depth that comes from the volcanic terroir and the barrique-aged composition. The final is long, with hints of liquorice, herbs and mineral spice.

Sicilian Metodo Classico, which approaches the style of the great sparkling wines of Europe – and yet never denies its Mediterranean identity - that was the plan. Donnafugata's Millesimato is made from Pinot Nero and Chardonnay, which grow at an altitude of around 470 metres in the hills of Contessa Entellina. Calcareous, well-aerated soils and strong day-night fluctuations ensure aromatic depth, freshness and ripening potential. The grapes are harvested early and selectively in order to preserve the necessary acidity structure. After gentle pressing, the first fermentation takes place in steel tanks, followed by the second in the bottle for 36 months on the lees – a phase that gives it complexity, density and structure.

Don Antonio is not only a great and powerful wine, it is also a monument. Dedicated to the father of the Morgante family, this Nero d'Avola embodies the quintessence of the passion with which vines have been cultivated in the hills of Grotte for generations. The grapes come from old vines and the best altitudes of up to 500 metres, where day-night temperature fluctuations, limestone soils and the sea breeze favour a Mediterranean but wonderfully developed profile. After temperature-controlled fermentation, the wine is aged for twelve months in French barriques, followed by a further maturation phase in the bottle.

This intense and long-lasting Marsala matures for 5 years according to the soleras method in barrels of 50-100 hl. These lie on top of each other, as in sherry production, and the contents of the different barrels and vintages sorted by tiers are regularly blended together. In this way, the older Marsala gives the younger one its softness and maturity, while the younger portion adds freshness and fruitiness.

Ben Ryé - the great naturally sweet and world-famous white wine from Donnafugata. The grapes are harvested in mid-August and left to dry naturally for 20 to 30 days. In September, the later ripening grapes are harvested and freshly processed. The hand-picked raisined berries are added to the must in several stages during fermentation. Light orange yellow in colour. Overwhelming aromas of apricot, peach and orange peel. Creamy notes of passion fruit and peach on the palate with an impressive elegance and length. For us, one of the best sweet wines in Italy every year! SUPERIORE.DE

Davide Rosso's Etna Bianco from Contrada Montedolce is an energetic, fresh white that impressively emphasises its volcanic character with its mineral salinity. The bouquet begins elegantly with Sicilian flavours of orange blossom and sweet almonds, then opens up with fresh lemon, crushed apples and a hint of wet stone. Its medium concentration and crisp freshness will serve it well as it continues to develop in the bottle. SUPERIORE.DE

Sàgana – a resounding name that describes far more than just a wine. It stands for the essence of Cusumano's work in the heart of Sicily, where the Nero d'Avola grape meets the barren expanse of the Monreale hills. The vines grow on calcareous clay soils in the single vineyard Tenuta San Giacomo, whose high-altitude plots are characterised by hot days and cool nights. This microclimate gives the wine density, freshness and remarkable depth. 2020 was a year of balance in Sicily: a warm spring, a dry but not overheated summer and ideal harvest conditions in September. The grapes were harvested when fully ripe, rigorously selected and matured in barriques for around twelve months after temperature-controlled maceration. A further year of bottle ageing completes the structure and gives the wine its polished nobility.

Nerobaronj is no ordinary Nero d'Avola, but a deeply rooted homage to origin and style. The name plays with the aristocratic title and grape variety – and refers to the self-confident profile of a wine that sets new standards with its concentration and elegance. The grapes come from the south of Sicily, not far from Noto, from old bush vines on calcareous clay soil. Organic cultivation, hand-picking and strict selection ensure a high degree of precision. The wine is matured for 24 months in barriques and tonneaux, followed by long bottle ageing.

The harvested Malvasia grapes remain in shaded drying chambers for several weeks under good ventilation. Without moisture and hot sun, the grapes dry slowly and thus retain their acidity and very moderate alcohol levels. Capofaro is an impressive dessert wine that comes from vines that once belonged to the late winemaker Carlo Hauner, who made Malvasia from the island of Salina famous.

Animardente is a pure Nerello Mascalese produced from vines planted in bushes at an altitude of 700 metres on partly sandy and ashy, partly gravelly and pebbly soils that are exposed to extreme temperature fluctuations between day and night. The name of the wine is derived from the bowels of the volcano, from its incessant activity, the heat and the colour of the magma. The vines grow in a kind of amphitheatre created by volcanic eruptions, which over the centuries have produced a valuable substrate for viticulture: On dark volcanic soils formed from lava flows, mainly free-living, rootless vines develop here, which are exposed to the most extreme climatic influences. Animardente was born a few years ago in this almost moon-like landscape. A name that tells of the soul of the silent volcano, unexpected and incandescent, breathing life into perpetual motion. An irrepressible and seductive force of nature, the expression of a unique terroir. SUPERIORE.DE

"Courageous, stubborn, rebellious" – is how Arianna Occhipinti describes the wine that is most like her. Frappato, this ursicilian grape variety of peasant origin, is rooted here in calcareous sandy soils at the foot of the Monti Iblei. Forty-year-old vines near Vittoria, at an altitude of 280 metres, are cultivated biodynamically. Vinification follows the rhythm of nature: spontaneous fermentation in concrete, thirty days of maceration, then fourteen months of ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels. Bottled unfiltered, the wine retains its lively authenticity.