Wines from Sicily

C'eragià – which is Sicilian and means: "Once upon a time." An allusion to something improbable that nevertheless came true. Because Chardonnay on the northern slope of Mount Etna, at an altitude of 740 metres, in the Contrada Rampante – sounds like an experiment that shouldn't actually work. And yet it is exactly the opposite: proof that the volcanic soil of this mountain moulds grape varieties that behave differently elsewhere.

The harvested Malvasia grapes remain in shaded drying chambers for several weeks under good ventilation. Without moisture and hot sun, the grapes dry slowly and thus retain their acidity and very moderate alcohol levels. Capofaro is an impressive dessert wine that comes from vines that once belonged to the late winemaker Carlo Hauner, who made Malvasia from the island of Salina famous.

Animardente is a pure Nerello Mascalese produced from vines planted in bushes at an altitude of 700 metres on partly sandy and ashy, partly gravelly and pebbly soils that are exposed to extreme temperature fluctuations between day and night. The name of the wine is derived from the bowels of the volcano, from its incessant activity, the heat and the colour of the magma. The vines grow in a kind of amphitheatre created by volcanic eruptions, which over the centuries have produced a valuable substrate for viticulture: On dark volcanic soils formed from lava flows, mainly free-living, rootless vines develop here, which are exposed to the most extreme climatic influences. Animardente was born a few years ago in this almost moon-like landscape. A name that tells of the soul of the silent volcano, unexpected and incandescent, breathing life into perpetual motion. An irrepressible and seductive force of nature, the expression of a unique terroir. SUPERIORE.DE

"Courageous, headstrong, rebellious" – is how Arianna Occhipinti describes the wine that most resembles her. Frappato, this quintessentially Sicilian grape variety of rural origins, is rooted here in calcareous sandy soils at the foot of the Monti Iblei. Forty-year-old vines near Vittoria, at an altitude of 280 metres, cultivated biodynamically. The winemaking process follows the rhythm of nature: spontaneous fermentation in concrete, thirty days" contact with the skins, then fourteen months" ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels. Bottled unfiltered, the wine retains its vibrant authenticity.

Siccagno is Arianna Occhipinti's personal monologue on Nero d'Avola – not a loud one, but a concentrated, quiet and deep-breathing one. The name derives from the Sicilian term for dry farming (sicco) and aptly describes the origins of this wine: deep-rooted vines in limestone soils near Vittoria, unirrigated, deliberately left to nature's care. 2021 was a year of bright sunshine, good air circulation and a growing season free from extreme heat or stress – perfect conditions for a delicately structured vintage. The grapes are harvested by hand, fermented spontaneously with natural yeasts, and macerated on the skins for around 30 days. The wine is aged for 24 months in large Slavonian oak casks – no rushing, no fining, no filtering. Just patience and trust in what the soil has to say.

From Vittoria to Chiaramonte Gulfi, following the limestone path all the way. Along the Iblean Mountains, the ancient sea, the flint – and the Grillo. This is how Arianna Occhipinti describes the journey that gave rise to this wine. She wanted to see how Grillo would fare at 240 metres, on the limestone hills of her homeland, where the subsoil consists of ancient marine sediment rather than the red sand on which her other wines are grown. The vineyard lies on the Promontorio Serra San Bartolo, a rocky ridge that separates two geological worlds: on one side, the historic contrade with red sand and tuff, Occhipinti's familiar terrain since the very first vintage. On the other side, compact limestone. Serracalcara lies exactly in between. The soil reveals both facets: white sand with iron inclusions on the surface; beneath this, at a depth of 30 to 40 centimetres, layers of marine limestone that are seabeds millions of years old. Cultivated biodynamically, using the Guyot basso system with double branching, at a density of 5,291 vines per hectare.

Neromàccarj is the broodingwine from Gulfi's high-quality Nero d'Avola range. The vines are rooted in the single vineyard Màccari, a barren hilly landscape near Pachino, where calcareous clay, volcanic rock and sea breezes create a powerful, yet always balanced microclimate. The vines are ungrafted, some are over 50 years old and yields are low. The harvest by hand and the wine is matured in the traditional way: a long maceration period followed by two years of ageing in used barriques and large wooden barrels. All this with organic care – and a firm determination to bring the best of the variety into the glass.

Vergine – this is not a style statement, this is a philosophy. No cooked must, no sweetening, no flavour additives. Just wine, alcohol and the quiet labour of time in oak wood. What ends up in the bottle is the result of radical reduction – and therein lies the greatness of this category. The 2000 vintage – then still young in the barrels of Pellegrino's historic winery in the heart of Marsala – spent more than a decade in large oak barrels of between 30 and 80 hectolitres. No haste, no intervention. The oxidation process is slow, controlled and precise. Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia from the westernmost tip of Sicily – soils over which the salt of the nearby Stagnone lagoon still lingers in the air.

In 2002, Benanti dared to do the unthinkable: a Metodo Classico from pure Carricante – the first ever bottle fermentation from Etna from this noble indigenous grape variety. What was then an experiment is now a reference: hardly any other Sicilian sparkling wine comes close to the perlage quality of this house. The grapes come from the eastern and southern slopes of the volcano, where 20 to 60-year-old vines are rooted between 700 and 850 metres in mineral-rich volcanic sands – partly as traditional Alberello, partly on the trellis. Hand-picked, gentle whole-cluster pressing, fermentation at 16–18 °C in stainless steel. The wine rests on the fine lees until late spring, followed by bottle fermentation with selected yeasts. After 24 months on the lees, disgorgement and dosage take place; a further three months of rest complete the maturation.

Above the cellar walls of Passopisciaro lives a woman whose stories are older than the centuries-old vines she can see from her window every day. Nerina Russo, mother of Giuseppe and widow of the late Girolamo, is more than just the namesake of this extraordinary white wine – she is the living heart of a family that has given Etna all its devotion. At harvest time, when their famous dishes mingle the flavours of the kitchen with those of the fermenting grapes, it becomes clear that wines are made here out of love, not just passion. Giuseppe has created a monument to his father with the winery, but has dedicated the wine that perhaps best expresses the essence of his family to his mother. Nerina embodies the soul of the Sicilian white wine tradition – a harmonious union of all the autochthonous grape varieties of Etna, which once thrived together in the mixed vineyards of the Contrade. Seventy per cent Carricante forms the backbone, while thirty per cent Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico, Minnella and Coda di Volpe provide the multi-layered complexity that can only come from centuries-old winemaking wisdom.

L'amore mio – my love. Rarely does a wine carry its character so openly in its name. This rosé spumante is Benanti's declaration of love for the Nerello Mascalese – the noble red grape variety that is otherwise synonymous with elegant red wines with a Burgundian grace on Etna. As Metodo Classico, it reveals a completely different, no less enchanting side. The grapes come from the south and south-east slopes of the volcano, where the vines are rooted between 700 and 750 metres in mineral-rich volcanic sands. Hand-picked, whole bunch pressing without destemming, fermentation at 16–18 °C in stainless steel. The base wine rests on the fine lees until late spring, followed by bottle fermentation with selected yeasts. After 24 months on the lees, disgorgement and dosage take place; a further three months of rest complete the maturation.

For some years now, Matteo Catania has been holding back a few hundred bottles of his wines in the best vintages in order to offer them to his most loyal importers after a few years. From this "private reserve" comes Neromaccarj 2011, which is now - in spring 2023 - offered in small quantities with 8 years of further bottle ageing quasi in Riserva quality.

Feudo di Mezzo is one of the most prestigious contrade on the northern slope of Mount Etna, a place where viticulture and volcanic rock have had a symbiotic relationship for centuries. At an altitude of around 600 metres, old Nerello Mascalese vines take root here in porous, ferrous ash, interspersed with lava boulders and basalt veins – a soil that gives the wine finesse, tension and depth. Alta Mora is Cusumano's ambitious project on Etna, and Feudo di Mezzo epitomises this vision: single-varietal, rigorously selected, with maximum focus on origin and character. The 2019 vintage on Mount Etna was characterised by elegance: a cool spring followed by a long, dry summer with cool nights. The grapes ripened slowly and harmoniously, with fine phenolic ripeness and a balanced acidity structure. After manual harvesting, fermentation took place with gentle maceration, followed by 12 months of maturation in French tonneaux and a long period of rest in the bottle.

Milo is the only municipality on the entire slopes of Mount Etna whose white wines are permitted to bear the suffix ‘superiore’. This distinction was enshrined in the DOC regulations in 1968 – and which takes account of the microclimate of this eastern flank: twice the rainfall compared to the northern side, an eastern exposure towards the Ionian Sea, cooling sea breezes, and volcanic soils composed of ash and Ripiddu lapilli. Amidst the mists of the summer nights that Marco de Grazia describes in his writings on Milo, the Carricante grape ripens here to a level of precision it achieves nowhere else on the volcano.

This Riesling is an exceptional phenomenon: it grows on the black, barren lava soils of northern Etna at an altitude of almost 900 metres – in a microclimate that is almost alpine. The grapes come from the historic Contrada Sciaranuova, a place shaped by the massive eruption of 1614. Wines of salty tension, cool precision and a depth that is unrivalled in southern Italy are produced here. Fermentation and ageing take place exclusively in stainless steel in order to preserve freshness and pure expression of origin. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with a silver sheen. Crystal-clear citrus notes, green apple, white peach, smoke and a fine hint of petrol on the nose – subtle, not overpowering. Vibrant and slender on the palate, with focussed acidity, mineral density and a long, almost crystalline final. Great with oysters, scallops or purist Japanese cuisine. SUPERIORE.DE

The area around the small town of Milo is the only vineyard site on Mount Etna where an Etna Bianco may be bottled as a ‘Superiore’ – and for good reason: on this steep vineyard, consisting of dozens of small terraces, only Carricante may be planted. The vines are trained like small saplings on chestnut wood stakes. The east-facing aspect and the proximity of the sea allow the grapes to ripen late, resulting in very consistent acidity levels and, ultimately, a white wine of aromatic finesse and freshness that is unrivalled even on Mount Etna. More floral and citrusy on the nose than the standard Carricante, the Superiore also exhibits slightly more body, acidity, depth and finesse. Its elegant acidity makes it vibrantly fresh and long-lasting, ensuring an exciting drinking experience and excellent ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Guardiola is a name with weight on Etna. One of the highest and steepest cru sites in Sicily, between 800 and 1,000 metres above sea level, exposed to the harsh sun, cool winds and the contrasts of a volcanic climate, which shapes not only the landscape but also the character of the wine. The vines – predominantly Nerello Mascalese – are deeply rooted in lava rock and volcanic ash, the soil is lean, black and mineralised, a barren terroir that combines strength and elegance rather than playing them off against each other. The vintage brought ideal conditions for a wine with a firm but accessible structure: after a cool spring, the grapes ripened under consistently warm summer sunshine, accompanied by pronounced day-night differences. The grapes were harvest late, by hand, in small crates – a decisive moment for precision and balance. After spontaneous fermentation, the wine was matured in French oak barrels – not to dominate the wine, but to give it contour.

This single-vineyard Carricante comes from the small Montalto vineyard on the southern slope of Etna at an altitude of around 950 metres. It is the most balanced and at the same time most exciting of all Etna Bianco from Terre Nere in terms of its overall impression and flavour; the whole Etna package is present here in exactly the right dose: Minerality, salinity, fruitiness and a perfect hint of orange peel and flint on the nose. On the palate, it is vibrant and fine, with an almost Burgundian dimension, full of finesse and length. SUPERIORE.DE

Donnafugata's "Dolce & Gabbana" Limited Edition represents the collaboration between two iconic brands that are recognised beyond the country's borders as ambassadors of Sicilian culture and Italian excellence. The joint commitment of these two companies to elegance, craftsmanship and creativity brilliantly reinterprets this historic cuvée of the winery. To mark the occasion, Tancredi has been given an exclusive Dolce & Gabbana label since the 2018 vintage, with an aesthetic that pays homage to both Italy's baroque-aristocratic tradition and the revolutionary values that emerged in Sicily after the country's unification. This noble Sicilian is made mainly from Nero d'Avola and Cabernet Sauvignon, the latter enriching the aroma spectrum with a subtle minty facet. In addition, the bouquet is refined by sweet mineral graphite, tones of liquorice, cocoa, sour cherries and blueberries. The excellent, broad and enveloping flavour structure is confirmed in the final of considerable length. SUPERIORE.DE

Pinot Nero from Etna has long been the dream of the Planeta family. And the experiment has been a success: Eruzione 1614 offers many positive surprises, starting with a strong varietal identity: the natural characteristics of the grape variety surpass the obvious intensity and energy of this volcanic region. It is probably one of the most Burgundian interpretations of the grape variety in Italy (alongside Alto Adige). The purity and freshness of the wine, with its many aromatic details such as cassis, wild berries, lilac and violets, is rounded off at the end by interesting notes of crushed volcanic rock. Die-hard fans of Pinot Nero will be delighted. SUPERIORE.DE

An archaic red from the volcano – feudo di Mezzo already carries the weight of its origin in its name: the name refers to the central area of the Passopisciaro Valley at an altitude of around 600 metres. The 2018 vintage on the Etna slopes in Passopisciaro was warm and balanced with freshness from the cooling winds. The grapes achieved ripe juiciness with a lively structure – a vintage that allows balance and at the same time shapes character. The cuvée comes from 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% Nerello Cappuccio from old vines, traditionally trained in Alberello. Deep-rooted vines, volcanic rubble and pumice soil, mineral, permeable, characterised by thermal influences – this is Etna terroir in its purest form.

While Santo Spirito unfolds its floral elegance at an altitude of 700 to 800 metres, Calderara Sottana is rooted in a completely different world. Only a few kilometres away, yet geologically different, this contrada lies at an altitude of 620 to 670 metres directly next to the winery – and here the extraordinary complexity of the Etna terroir is revealed. Marc de Grazia discovered one of Sicily's rarest treasures in Calderara Sottana: pure elliptical terroir, formed 60,000 years ago by volcanic eruptions. Of the hundreds of contrade on Etna, only three have this pristine geological fingerprint and Calderara is one of them. While the Santo Spirito impresses with its crystalline minerality and maritime freshness, the Calderara Sottana is more opulent, creamy and warmer.

In the upper areas of the historic Contrada Rovittello – at an altitude of around 700 metres, on volcanic rock with a high basalt content – the old Nerello Mascalese vines of Il Musmeci take root. Some of them are even over 100 years old, their roots penetrating deep into the barren, mineral-rich soil. The north-eastern flank of Mount Etna provides a cool microclimate with a strong contrast between day and night – decisive for the aromatic precision. The name Il Musmeci is a tribute to the former owner of the parcel, Cav. Santi Musmeci, whose respect for terroir and tradition became the legacy of this wine.

In 1985, Lucio Tasca d'Almerita embarked on an experiment that was to become legendary. After an initial trial with cuttings from Burgundy, he planted five hectares of Chardonnay in the lower part of the San Francesco hill – at an altitude of 530 metres, facing south-east, where the Sicilian sun meets clayey-sandy soils. It was a time when international grape varieties were not yet officially recognised in Sicily, but Lucio followed his vision. This Burgundian journey to Regaleali resulted in a Chardonnay of impressive complexity. It matures for eight months in Liters French oak barrels from Allier and Tronçais, seventy percent in new barriques. The chalky sediments of the old river deposits lend it a mineral depth, while the altitude and Sicilian temperature fluctuations create the tension that characterises great Chardonnays.