Wine Spectator

When Luciano Sandrone bought his first vineyard in Cannubi Boschis in 1977 – financed with all his savings – and vinified the first bottle in his parents' garage a year later, nobody could have guessed that this humble beginning would grow into one of Barolo's most iconic wineries. After his death in 2024, daughter Barbara, brother Luca as Oenologist and wife Mariuccia continue the legacy today: 27 hectares between Langa and Roero, six wines of uncompromising quality that combine tradition and modernity in equal measure. The Barbera d'Alba, vinified from grapes from various plots in Monforte d'Alba and Novello, is more than just an accompanying wine – it is a statement that Sandrone devotes the same attention to each grape variety as he does to his legendary Barolo.

This exceptional Chianti Classico comes from the golden basin of the Conca d'Oro near Panzano and bears the pioneering achievements of the di Napoli family. As early as 1975, Alceo di Napoli was one of the first in the Chianti region to venture into planting Cabernet Sauvignon – a vision that was to revolutionise the traditional Sangiovese profile and is now part of Castello dei Rampolla's DNA. The grapes thrive on 42 hectares of limestone-rich soil at an altitude of around 360 metres, where Sangiovese (90%) blends with small proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to create a harmonious cuvée. The estate has consistently followed biodynamic principles since 1994 – long before they became a trend. The vineyards are home to a living ecosystem: flowers and herbs grow unhindered between the rows of vines, naturally oxygenated water nourishes the vines, and only copper, sulphur and bee propolis are used to protect the vines.

Lamole. Giovanni Manetti has long regarded this zone as one of the most distinctive in Chianti Classico. At an altitude of 620 metres, far from the heart of the region, a few plots of old Sangiovese vines survived the wave of deforestation in the 1970s. Giovanni took cuttings from these Alberello vines from the 1920s to grow his own vines in Panzano: the foundation for Fontodi's quality. This wine is made from seven hectares of Macigno sandstone, whose loose, permeable structure ensures elegance and finesse. Cool nights, long growing season, south-south-west exposure. The sandy soils give the Sangiovese a lightness that is clearly different from the powerful wines from Panzano. Vinification in concrete, certified organic.

Castello di Monsanto's Chianti Classico Riserva is a fabulous wine that punches well above its weight. Dark cherry, plum, liquorice, spice, leather, lavender and tobacco run through this wonderfully nuanced and vibrant Riserva. It is surprisingly expressive and open even at a young age and will continue to drink well for over 15 years. Sweet floral notes extend the finish of this medium-bodied, graceful and well-structured wine. Interesting Storage potential! SUPERIORE.DE

In 1966, when the Italian wine world was at a crossroads, Domenico Poggiali took the bold step of acquiring the then neglected lands of Castelnuovo Berardenga. His son-in-law Giuseppe Mazzocolin, the humanist professor and friend of Luigi Veronelli, subsequently turned this adventure into a legend. Together with the young OenologistFranco Bernabei, they created the first Berardenga in 1967 – a Sangiovese that epitomises the true essence of south-eastern Chianti Classico. The vineyards extend over the geologically heterogeneous terraces between 320 and 420 metres above sea level, where quartz-rich sandstone and calcareous Alberese in the upper areas meet sandstone and clay towards the Crete Senesi. This "Terra di Confine" – the borderland between Chianti Classico and the Colli Senesi – characterises the unmistakable character.

Impressively structured Chardonnay from the Kreuth estate. The western vineyard produces a very elegant wine that impresses with its fine acidity, creamy structure and elegant interplay of flavours. Bright, radiant straw yellow in colour. Complex and balanced, with an abundance of tropical fruit, underlined by a sensual salty minerality. Long and persistent. SUPERIORE.DE

A captivating Pinot Nero with a poetic expression of the Langhe terroir: strictly selected grapes from organically farmed vineyards are vinified with the utmost care. After manual harvesting and fermentation, the wine matures for 18 months in tonneaux, which give it structure without masking its freshness. The ageing process combines depth with elegant finesse – an art that Vajra has mastered for many years.

The grapes for Poggio Anticos Rosso have always come from 100% Brunello vineyards and the wine is a real insider tip for Montalcino lovers. Several of the vineyards have been certified organic since 2022. After some aeration, it beguiles the nose with an overwhelming bouquet of spices, ripe red cherries and fine leather notes. Full, firm and fleshy on the palate, the structure is very polished and balanced. A Rosso that could easily be a Brunello with a little patience and further bottle ageing: precise, delicious and with a beautiful, long final full of depth and a delightful aftertaste. SUPERIORE.DE

Potenti, a concentrated and pure Cabernet Sauvignon, is rich in finesse with a hint of rusticity, as is typical of the wines from this wild and untamed corner of Tuscany. Refined bouquet, rich and dense on the palate, the mineral note closely interwoven with the wood nuances. Potenti will develop into a great wine in a few years. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1090, while Leif Erikson was discovering America and the first universities in Europe were being established, two friends of Abbot Rolando paid "two capons, three loaves of bread and six silver denarii from Lucca" for the annual lease of a vineyard in the divine valley of Dievole. Nine hundred (Novecento) years later, in 1990, this wine was created as a reminiscence of the incredible journey through the centuries. The grapes thrive between 300 and 420 metres above sea level on stony soils of marl, limestone and galestro. The vines, which are on average 15 years old and cultivated organically as in the early days of this domain, undergo a 14-day spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts in cement vats before maturing for 18 months in large, unroasted French Allier oak barrels.

The organically certified Sangiovese grapes for this Chianti Classico are grown in the legendary Conca d'Oro south of Panzano, that amphitheatrical Golden Valley with its unique microclimate of warm days and cool nights. Giovanni Manetti, president of the Consorzio Chianti Classico, vinifies exclusively hand-picked grapes in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts on the chalky Galestro soils of his 170-hectare Tenuta. After three weeks of maceration, the wine matures for 18 months in French oak barrels of various sizes.

Conte della Vipera is a tribute to the first owners of the castle and the label refers to the 13th century chapel of St John, which is located on the estate. The vineyards are situated at an altitude of 250 to 350 metres above sea level on soils rich in fossilised marine deposits.

Vigna Andrea is the centrepiece of Clelia Romano's oeuvre – a single-vineyard Taurasi named after her son, grown at an altitude of 500 metres on calcareous and clayey soils near Lapio. In a vintage like 2019, which brought cool nights and long growing seasons, this wine shows all its aristocratic depth. The Aglianico is rigorously selected, partially destemmed, fermented in steel and then matured for at least 24 months in French barriques before a long maturation in the bottle.

A rosé full of finesse and freshness, in which the signs of tradition and modern harmony come together perfectly. A delicate peach-pink colour with a light mousse in the glass. The bouquet seduces with notes of ripe strawberry, raspberry, exotic flowers and light brioche spice. Juicy, dry and finely structured on the palate: the subtle acidity carries ripe fruit, the yeasty character lends creaminess, while the finish is clear and persistent – with fine minerality and inner tension. A rosé with personality that can be both an aperitif and an accompaniment to food – charming, vertical and stylish in expression. SUPERIORE.DE

Castellares dessert wine matures for five long years in chestnut wood caratelli, with just 3,500 bottles going on sale each year. Deep honey yellow in colour. The bouquet is reminiscent of wild porcini mushrooms, candied fruit with honey and caramel. Seductive and soft on the palate, the well-developed acidity not only ensures a wonderfully fresh drinking flow, but also gives this fine wine a great future. SUPERIORE.DE

Collepiano (gentle hills) is what Marco Caprai calls the vineyards where his vision took shape at the end of the 1980s: to restore the Sagrantino, this ancient Umbrian vine with the highest tannin content in the wine world, to its lost greatness. Not as a sweet passito behind monastery walls, but as a dry red wine of international calibre. What followed was a revolution: collaboration with the University of Milan, clone selection, high-density plantings – and, in 1996, the legendary "25 Anni", the Sagrantino that Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones chose for their wedding. Collepiano comes from pure Sagrantino from the Val di Maggio vineyards. After the harvest, the must underwent temperature-controlled fermentation, followed by gentle extraction over ten to fourteen days. The cuvée matured for twenty-two months in French barriques and a further six months in the bottle – time that gave this tannin-rich wine structure and soul.

Pinot Grigio Unterebner is an exceptional wine: golden yellow in colour, elegant aromas of blossom honey, lavender and tropical fruit. Delicate buttery notes, very balanced and charismatic, long and powerful on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Brilliant golden yellow colour. Complex notes of light peach, fresh pineapple and poached apricot on the nose. Rich and creamy on the palate with accents of smoke and toasted almonds. The finish is long-lasting, mineral and herb-accentuated. This very focussed and complex white paints a beautiful portrait of the refined side of the Trebbiano di Lugana grape, which is becoming increasingly popular. SUPERIORE.DE

In the rolling hills of Castelnuovo Calcea lies the Montemareto vineyard, a privileged parcel in the heart of the Nice DOCG zone, where Michele Chiarlo has relied on old, low-yielding Barbera vines for decades. The 2021 vintage benefited from a balanced vegetation cycle: a mild spring, warm, dry summer months and cool September nights resulted in perfectly ripe, concentrated berries. A deep ruby red colour with violet hues shines in the glass. The bouquet opens with juicy black cherry, ripe plums and dark berries, underpinned by violets, liquorice and fine roasted aromas. On the palate, the Barbera is powerful and supple at the same time, with rich fruit, present but well-integrated acidity and a fine-grained tannin that lends structure. The long, harmonious finish carries notes of sweet tobacco, herbs and a subtle almond flavour. A Barbera wine of remarkable depth and balance – full of character, storable and a worthy ambassador of the Nice terroir. SUPERIORE.DE

Lagrein and Gries belong together like Nebbiolo and Barolo. The Bolzano district of Gries is the ancestral home of this indigenous South Tyrolean grape variety – first mentioned in writing in 1379, and since then hardly anywhere else as convincing as here. Rudi Kofler puts it in a nutshell: "The alluvial soils of Gries are ideal for Lagrein. Because the Gries terroir is unlike anything else in Terlan. No steep slopes, no porphyry rock – but flat, post-glacial alluvial soil in the sunny Bolzano valley basin, where the Adige, Eisack and Talfer rivers meet and summer temperatures of up to 40 degrees are not uncommon. Loamy-sandy soils, lime-free, brooding. A terroir that gives Lagrein warmth and ripeness without taking away its tension. Hand-picked, destemming, slow maceration in steel, malolactic fermentation – then 12 months of ageing: half in large wooden barrels and half in barriques, one third of which is new. Precision meets depth.

The grapes for this high-calibre Valpolicella Classico Superiore come from the rather barren, calcareous and terraced vineyards of Tenuta Novare above the Ognisanti church. Wines of greater complexity, perfect structure and higher concentration are produced here than in most other vineyards in Valpolicella. Sparkling ruby-garnet colour. Fragrant nose with wonderful overtones of sour cherry, dried flowers and white pepper. Perfectly balanced on the palate with firm tannins and wonderful spice and depth of fruit thanks to the ageing in wood. A superior, winning wine from the heart of the Valpolicella region. SUPERIORE.DE

Pinot Noir is the most demanding grape variety in the world. It forgives nothing – no wrong soil, no climate that is too warm, no impatient hand in the cellar. It has found its place in Terlan: Since the middle of the 19th century, Pinot Noir has thrived in the medium-high sites of the Monticol zone, at 450–760 metres, on light porphyry weathered soils, where even in midsummer, downdraughts provide cooling.

Impressive Riserva from high-altitude vineyards, where Montepulciano produces ripe and expressive grapes despite the Alpine altitude. The 2020 vintage was characterised by warm days, cool nights and healthy ripeness - ideal conditions for a structured Riserva with depth. After classic mash fermentation, the wine matured for around 18 months in large wooden barrels and then in steel to gain strength and retain freshness. Dense ruby colour with a strong core in the glass. The nose reveals aromas of blackberry, blackcurrant, some plum and sweet spicy notes such as liquorice, tobacco and dark chocolate. The tannin is present and fine-meshed, the acidity clear and invigorating. On the palate, the wine is powerful but not broad - with Mediterranean flavours, mineral depth and a long, spicy finish. A self-confident Montepulciano that speaks of its origins and has a lot of style: structured, dense and yet with elegant guidance - a Riserva with charisma and harmony. SUPERIORE.DE