Wine Enthusiast

It was in 1991 that Michele Satta planted his first vineyard with a visionary blend: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Syrah. An assemblage that would simultaneously honour Bolgheri's established Bordeaux excellence and unite the Tuscan elegance of Sangiovese with the Mediterranean complexity of Syrah. Three years later, in 1994, Piastraia was born – the wine that changed everything and catapulted Michele Satta into the ranks of the great Bolgheri producers. The name comes from the chestnut trees that surround the vineyard – piastraia refers to the characteristic paving of chestnut leaves that covers the ground. But it is more than just a name: it is the manifestation of a philosophy that combines international greatness with Tuscan soul. Almost three decades after the first planting, Piastraia has found its final form. Since 2012, it has proudly borne the designation "Bolgheri Superiore" – an honour for vineyards that have reached their full complexity after two decades. From the 2019 vintage, Satta said goodbye to Syrah in this blend to make room for the pure essence of Bordeaux varieties and Tuscan Sangiovese.

The grapes for the profound Le Vigne come from Baudana in Serralunga d'Alba (for the power), Villero in Castiglione Falletto (for the precision), Vignane in Barolo (for the purity of the flavours) and Merli in Novello (for the fullness of the fruit). It opens wide with aromas of fresh red fruit and a delicate spicy note. Very intense on the palate, remarkably elegant, fine-grained tannins, extremely clear, structured and long. SUPERIORE.DE

1997 saw the birth of Bradisismo, named after the geological event that led to the formation of the Colli Berici. It is a successful symbiosis of the intense, concentrated flavour of ripe Cabernet cherries and the lively, spicy notes of Carménère. With its bouquet of small dark berries, spices, pepper and chocolate, it is a wonderfully inexpensive alternative to the great Bordeaux blends or Supertuscans. On the palate, it has a velvety texture, with a mix of dark fruits, cherries, floral notes and fine tannins that glide seamlessly over the palate. Deep, long finish and very good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Pajana - the most modern wine in the entire Clerico range - presents itself as a closed, compact wine with great potential. Rich ruby colour with a slight garnet rim. Compact nose, with rich notes of blackberry, dark cherries and a hint of cinchona bark in the background. Literally explodes on the palate, lots of ripe, present fruit, then opens up with lots of fine-meshed tannins, savoury depth, full-bodied pressure. SUPERIORE.DE

Cresasso - an exquisite, pure Corvina. Intense aromas of dark fruit, rose petals and spices. Rich, concentrated fruit on the palate, silky, with a remarkable inner sweetness. Distinctive and sensual. SUPERIORE.DE

A Grand Cru of Franciacorta – from a single, high-altitude Pinot Nero parcel, selected and vinified with the utmost precision. The 2013 matured on the lees for more than seven years and was disgorged without dosage in order to reveal the pure character of the vineyard. In the glass, it shines in a rich gold colour with copper reflections, interspersed with an ultra-fine, persistent perlage. The nose is deep and multi-faceted: ripe apricot, candied orange peel, rosehip, fine brioche notes, hazelnut and a hint of smoke. Powerful and focussed on the palate, carried by taut, crystal-clear acidity and a silky texture. The fruit remains subtle, while salty minerality and fine toasted notes create great inner tension. The final is long, cool and complex, with hints of dried herbs and citrus zest. A Franciacorta of rare depth and nobility – uncompromising, clear and of impressive longevity. SUPERIORE.DE

The great Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra from the historic Clerico vineyard. Bright garnet red colour. Open-hearted bouquet of ripe fruit and spices, the elegant tannins are accompanied by a pleasant freshness in the complex flavour, deep and long on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The loose, sandy soils of Cannubi always ensure a special concentration of flavour, and this is particularly evident in this classic vintage. A clean bouquet of small red berries, violets and dried rose petals. A fine mineral note, a pinch of salt and plenty of fruit and a clearly contoured tannin structure on the multi-layered palate. A beautifully straightforward wine, powerful and elegant. SUPERIORE.DE

Some wines have to fight for their recognition over years, while others are in the limelight from birth. For a long time, Barolo Le Vigne was the "second" Barolo in the Sandrone family, standing in the shadow of the iconic Cannubi Boschi – until connoisseurs and critics gradually realised that there was no hierarchy here, but rather equality. Today, after more than three decades since the first vintage in 1990, Le Vigne is no longer a complement to Aleste, but its congenial partner – a wine that perfects the ancient Piedmontese art of blending several vineyard sites and increasingly holds a candle to Aleste.

Mazzei's top wine Siepi is not only an outstanding Tuscan wine every year, but also a 6-hectare vineyard in the middle of dense oak forests with an ideal altitude and a unique climate. The sunshine is optimal throughout the day and a constant breeze from the west prevents excessive heat and creates a mild, Mediterranean climate. The oak forests also provide an ideal protective barrier against extreme weather conditions. Rocky soils of marl, limestone and clay from the Pliocene period ensure a special balance of elements in this geological complex.

Bright ruby red with a light rim. Equally bright and very complex bouquet of wild berries, strawberries, dried fruits, tar and balsamic herbs. On the palate, a very attractive, supple texture, again a beautiful red berry fruit in the drink, plus traces of blackcurrant, blueberry and liquorice. In the long, squeaky clean finish, traces of well-integrated light wood and a very appealing silkiness. SUPERIORE.DE

Cerequio is considered one of the grand cru sites of Barolo and has been an integral part of the Michele Chiarlo icons for decades. The steep slopes between La Morra and Barolo face south-east and south-west, with calcareous marl and fine veins of sand that give the Nebbiolo here an unmistakable combination of depth, finesse and flavour. The vines, some of which are over 30 years old, produce wines of remarkable complexity in mature vintages. The 2019 vintage was characterised by a balanced vegetation cycle: a cool spring, followed by warm, sunny summer months and moderate temperatures in September, which allowed for slow, complete ripening. After gentle fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, the wine matured for two years in large French oak barrels before being further refined in the bottle.

La Poja from the vineyard of the same name is a great terroir wine in which Allegrini does not dry the grapes. Made from the indigenous Corvina grape variety, this red wine opens with inviting aromas of ripe black-skinned berries, cedar wood and spices. The elegantly structured, full-bodied palate offers spiced blackberries, liquorice and black pepper alongside fine-grained tannins. Dynamic, precise and very elegant in all its components, it offers maximum enjoyment and promises a terrific development. SUPERIORE.DE

Bright, powerful ruby colour, aromas of cherry, redcurrant, cocoa and tar. Juicy, spicy and bright, with firm acidity and taut tannins that give it definition and lift to the flavours. Very fresh and precise, persistent and smooth. It has outstanding potential. If you taste the decades-old wines from Mastroberardino (dating back to 1928), it becomes clear: these wines are monumental, immortal or at least for eternity. SUPERIORE.DE

A wine with origin and signature: The grapes come from the renowned Scarrone vineyard directly below Castiglione Falletto – a warm south-east exposure with calcareous marl soils. Vietti cultivates the vineyard organically and vinifies the Vigna Scarrone with respect for the grape variety and terroir. Temperature-controlled maceration is followed by ageing in large barrels and used barriques – an approach that promotes both structure and elegance.

Volpaia – the foxhole. High above Radda in Chianti, at 450 to 650 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Castello di Volpaia are located on the highest slopes of the appellation. The medieval borgo, first mentioned in a document in 1172, has belonged to the Mascheroni-Stianti family since 1966, who consistently farm organically here. The altitude shapes the character: sandstone soils, cool nights and long ripening periods give the Sangiovese (supplemented by 10% Merlot) a freshness and elegance that would be hard to achieve in warmer locations. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured for twelve months in large oak barrels.

Il Bricco rises above Treiso to an altitude of around 400 metres. The vines are on average around four decades old. Selective hand-picking, parcel-by-parcel fermentation in stainless steel, patient malolactic fermentation. Maturation takes place predominantly in large oak barrels, accompanied by a smaller proportion of French oak for additional polish. 2019 is considered a textbook year in Barbaresco: a moderate summer, large day-night amplitudes and a long, dry autumn led to a late harvest and fully mature phenolics. The wines show density and vertical tension with excellent freshness – a profile with staying power.

The grapes come from the historic single vineyard Ornato in Serralunga d'Alba: steep, windy slopes on calcareous marl with ferruginous inclusions, at an altitude of around 350-400 metres, predominantly south/south-west facing. Each parcel is harvested separately and fermented in stainless steel; long maceration with gentle extraction. Maturation takes place classically in large Slavonian barrels, with a finely dosed proportion of French oak for texture and lustre. The typically long autumn of 2019 brought fully ripe, aromatically dense grapes with a cool acidity.

The 1.6-hectare Loreto vineyard is located on a slope right next to the winery and has an ideal south-east exposure. Vigna Loreto is only vinified in the best vintages and is an even more intense interpretation of the Sangiovese grape. On the palate, the texture is both creamy and robust, with a depth and fullness that make it very rich and exceptional. With further aeration, beautiful notes of black fruits, tobacco and spices. Aristocratic, powerful and very long. SUPERIORE.DE

The single-vineyard Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is, as always, one of the outstanding wines in this series. It shows the energy and tension so typical of this site, but with a slightly more mature profile than is the norm. Ovello dives straight into the volatile Nebbiolo aromas, with a focus on liquorice, tar, blue flowers and campfire ash. The palate is full-bodied, with flavours of crushed raspberries, juicy Marasca cherries, liquorice and nutmeg as well as firm, tight-knit tannins. The fresh acidity provides tension and balance. Looking at the timeline of Riserva wines, this wine reaches the magical threshold at which Nebbiolo begins to unfold its unique aromatic appeal and mystique ... SUPERIORE.DE

Not every year gets a name. 2016 has earned it – and Montalcino does not award such honours lightly. A mild winter, a spring with heavy rainfall that got the growing season back on track. Then, from the second decade of June, a gradual, gentle rise in temperatures throughout July. And finally an August that brought everything together: large daily temperature fluctuations, no rain, perfect ripening conditions. The Consorzio called 2016 one of its best vintages in decades. And Col d'Orcia turned the best site into a Riserva. The Poggio al Vento vineyard is located in the heart of the Tenuta, halfway up the hill above the Orcia Valley, at 350 metres. Planted since 1974. The name – "hill in the wind" – is the programme: constantly ventilated, south-facing, on calcareous, skeleton-rich soils. Grapes are grown here that Col d'Orcia reserves for the most demanding category in the cellar, and even then only when the vintage poses the question: Is this more than a Brunello annata? Can this wine last for decades? In 2016, the answer was yes.