wine classics

Montalcino is not a homogeneous terroir – it is a mosaic of microclimates, altitudes and soil formations that produces completely different interpretations of Sangiovese in a very small area. San Polo is located in the south-east, on the hill of Podernovi, where the extinct volcano Monte Amiata shields the vineyards from the hot Scirocco winds and has left behind pyroclastic deposits that give the Sangiovese a mineral signature that few other sites possess. At 450 metres above sea level, the estate belongs to the cooler zones of the appellation – large temperature amplitudes between day and night promote flavour and acidity structure, while the dryness of the summer concentrates the berries without stressing them.

Brilliant, rich ruby-garnet colour. Inviting nose with multi-layered notes of ripe plums, blackberries and a hint of fine leather. Juicy, ripe fruit in the attack, opens up with powerful, well-integrated tannins, savoury and long, firm pressure. A real long-liver from the top year 2019. SUPERIORE.DE

Cherry-accentuated bouquet with hints of violet flowers, clove, cigar box and a pleasant spicy sweetness. Dense and expressive on the palate, it opens vibrant and multi-layered and then reveals a wonderful load of black cherry, exotic spices and a fine salty vein. The perfectly balanced tannins always provide the necessary balance and give it a racy, very long finish with its extremely refined flavour components. SUPERIORE.DE

Wonderful, finesse-rich selection of the estate's best Sangiovese grapes. The nose is impressive with its richness: red fruits, dark flowers, fine tar and vegetal notes, traces of blackberry jam. Full-bodied on the palate with subtle extract sweetness, powerful and juicy at the same time, the well-proportioned tannins come into play very well and glide this red elegantly into a long final. SUPERIORE.DE

Concerto was born in 1981, a time of dynamic change in Italian viticulture. The hitherto untapped potential was recognised and experiments were carried out with new grape varieties and, for the first time, successfully with international grape varieties. It was Marchesa Carla Mazzei who spontaneously chose the name Concerto in 1981 after the first tasting of just fifteen barriques – a symphony had taken place in her glass. As one of the first ten Super Tuscans, this wine made history and revolutionised the Tuscan understanding of wine. From the Scassi vineyard in the western part of Fonterutoli, surrounded by oak forests at an altitude of 350 metres, the Sangiovese comes from mass selections from an experimental vineyard in the 1930s. And the small portion of Cabernet Sauvignon has developed a completely independent character here over four decades, far removed from the international character it develops elsewhere. The 18-month maturation in French barriques then gives the wine its noble structure without overshadowing its original elegance.

When Virginie Saverys and Max De Zarobe realised that Montepulciano could only regain its historical reputation by working together, they created the Alleanza Vinum. Six prestigious wineries – salcheto, Poliziano, La Braccesca, Dei, Boscarelli and Avignonesi – joined forces in 2017 on a mission: each creates its own 100 per cent Sangiovese cru every year, embodying the rediscovery of Vino Nobile. Avignonesi's contribution comes from the legendary Caprile vineyard, planted in 1978 at an altitude of 300 metres. The soil tells of millions of years: Marine sediments from the Pliocene, criss-crossed by deep veins of blue sodium clay, rich in silt and limestone – a terroir that gives the Sangiovese exceptional depth. After 28 days of controlled maceration with natural yeasts from the Pied-de-Cuve selection, the wine matures for 24 months in large oak barrels.

A wine that made history. When the first vintage of La Selvanella Riserva was presented in 1969, it was a revolution in Chianti Classico – the very first cru from a single vineyard in the entire region. Today, over 50 years later, this Sangiovese classic is still regarded as a benchmark for the elegance and purity of the Radda terroirs. The 50 hectares of the La Selvanella vineyard sit at an altitude of 350 to 550 metres above Radda in Chianti in one of the most privileged positions in the entire region. Wines of exceptional structure and lively acidity are produced here. The perfect south-west exposure and the temperate continental climate create ideal conditions for the capricious Sangiovese to develop its full aromatic complexity.

40 years Brunello di Montalcino by Casanova di Neri: Intense bouquet of sour cherry with nuances of chocolate, spices, liquorice and herbs. Energetic and highly vital on the palate. Wonderfully layered and seamlessly integrated dark fruit flavours open up with each sip, paired with a subtle vein of salt. Its tannins are like velvet and silk, the long, sweeping finish reveals that Sangiovese excellence we love so much at Casanova di Neri! SUPERIORE.DE

Briccolina is one of the smallest but most prestigious vineyards in Serralunga d'Alba. The steep slopes and the limestone and clay-rich marl soil give the wines from this parcel a striking, almost architectural structure. The south-east exposure ensures even sunshine and slow ripening, giving the flavours depth and precision. Dense, bright garnet red in colour with ruby reflections. The bouquet is multi-layered: ripe sour cherry, blackcurrant, dried roses, with hints of graphite, liquorice, fine leather and a touch of undergrowth. Powerful on the palate, with pithy, ripe tannins and clear, supporting acidity. The fruit is concentrated but not heavy, embedded in a subtle spiciness and mineral vein. The finish is long, structured and characterised by persistent freshness. A Barolo of rare precision and depth that masterfully reflects the character of the tiny Briccolina vineyard in a great vintage – and has the potential to age for decades. SUPERIORE.DE

The star from Tenuta Sant'Antonio: A rich dark ruby red, its bouquet of wild fruits, black pepper, tobacco and spices is a delight for the nose. Fruity and full-bodied, yet velvety and very sophisticated in its character - an austere, characterful and elegant Amarone, whose terrificfinish is accompanied by noble tannins. SUPERIORE.DE

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are located in the areas of three neighbouring municipalities of Chianti Classico: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three large vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time in order to recognise the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been allowed to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive) introduced in 2021 on the labels of the top Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, it is a logical step to produce wines that reflect the area in which they were produced as authentically as possible. And customers can thus deepen their knowledge of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin - a real added value.

In the gentle hills of Mezzane di Sotto, where the Monti Garbi rise majestically over the eastern Valpolicella, lies the centrepiece of the Tenuta Sant'Antonio: Campo dei Gigli – the field of lilies. The oldest vines of the brothers Armando, Tiziano, Paolo and Massimo Castagnedi are rooted here, on calcareous white soils with sandy-loamy inclusions at an altitude of 300 metres. A single vineyard that produces a unique wine. Since 1989, the Castagnedi family has embodied the revolution that changed Valpolicella forever: quality instead of quantity, while everyone else was still focussing on quantity. Forty-year-old vines, trained on the traditional Pergola Veronese with only 3,300 vines per hectare, bear the cuvée of 70% Corvina and Corvinone, 20% Rondinella and 5% each of Croatina and the rare Oseleta. The appassimento – the mystical drying period of at least three months – transforms the hand-picked grapes into concentrated essence.

Ceretto's entry-level Barbaresco comes from different sites, mostly younger vines from Asili (35%) and the lower part of Bernadot (65%). Bright, elegant ruby red. It has full energy and vivacity and offers excellent persistence and remarkable balance. On the nose, sweet red cherry, mint, pine, liquorice and candied orange peel. Taut and ferruginous on the palate, very juicy, salty, stretches precisely across the tongue, with some pressure, considerable juicy-long finish. After good aeration already impressively accessible when young. SUPERIORE.DE

Concerto was born in 1981, a time of dynamic change in Italian viticulture. The hitherto untapped potential was recognised and experiments were carried out with new grape varieties and, for the first time, successfully with international grape varieties. It was Marchesa Carla Mazzei who spontaneously chose the name Concerto in 1981 after the first tasting of just fifteen barriques – a symphony had taken place in her glass. As one of the first ten Super Tuscans, this wine made history and revolutionised the Tuscan understanding of wine. From the Scassi vineyard in the western part of Fonterutoli, surrounded by oak forests at an altitude of 350 metres, the Sangiovese comes from mass selections from an experimental vineyard in the 1930s. And the small portion of Cabernet Sauvignon has developed a completely independent character here over four decades, far removed from the international character it develops elsewhere. The 18-month maturation in French barriques then gives the wine its noble structure without overshadowing its original elegance.

It was Domizio Cavazza, director of the Royal School of Viticulture in Alba, who gave Barbaresco its name and its claim to fame in 1894. A wine that was to stand up to the more powerful Barolo – finer, accessible earlier, but no less complex. More than a century later, the roles are clearly divided: Barbaresco stands for the elegant side of Nebbiolo, for finesse instead of power, for fragrance instead of darkness. Prunotto has found his answer to this appellation in a single vineyard: Bric Turot. Five hectares at around 200 metres, with an exposure from south-west to south-east, which gives the hill the shape of a natural amphitheatre. The soil – tortonian limestone and marl with veins of sand, rich in magnesium and manganese – is the same foundation on which Gajas Sorì Tildin stands just a few metres away. Not bad terrain then.

The grapes for this Supertuscan come from the San Giovanni vineyard near San Giovanni a Cerreto. In the church next to the vineyard there is a painting by Rutilo Manetti depicting St John the Baptist (San Giovanni). Deep ruby red, youthful, rich, dark fruit, berry and cassis flavours meld with French oak. On the palate with deep, subtle fruit flavours and an excellent balance of fruit and tannin, plus some smoke, liquorice and tar. A rich but not too heavy red with excellent structure and great ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are located in the areas of three neighbouring municipalities of Chianti Classico: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three large vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time in order to recognise the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino from San Felice shows rich black cherries and plums with sweet spices, cedar shavings and cool mint. The texture is silky, with a polished blend of red and black berries interspersed with savoury minerals. Medium-bodied and youthfully compact, it also shows a taste of what's to come as florals build over notes of liquorice and clove. A web of fine tannins envelop everything they touch with youthful composure as the wine tapers off with violet reflections. This is a very successful interpretation of the top 2019 vintage from southern Montalcino. SUPERIORE.DE

Some vintages need no introduction. 2019 is one of them. Mild winter, soils well watered. Cool spring, vegetation two weeks behind the calendar – a blessing in disguise. Then a summer with moderate warmth around 25 degrees, without the scorching extremes that lignify tannins and burn fruit. And a September that brought everything together: slowly, evenly, precisely. Montalcino breathed a sigh of relief. Roberto Giannelli and Paolo Caciorgna had it easy – and difficult at the same time. Easy, because the raw material was impeccable. Difficult because you have to make a wine of the century from a vintage of the century. The answer: no over-commitment. Steel, concrete, large barrels. Patience instead of intervention and respect instead of actionism.

Neris Brunello 2019 is a classic wine with pleasant contrasts and a focussed structure. Ripe dark fruit and autumnal spices contrast with savoury herbs and a hint of animal musk. The palate is silky, cool and airy, with a noticeable inner sweetness in the polished cherry and berry flavours, then veers more towards inner earth and minerals, showing beautifully articulated and grippy tannins. Streamlined and compact in the mouth with a lively, racy finish and great potential. SUPERIORE.DE

A little shy and reserved at first, but after a short time it comes to life and from then on never takes a step back. A beguiling spectacle of spiced orange peel, sour cherry and mint draws you closer to the glass, where notes of cardamom, cinnamon, clove and sage can be found. Initially soft and smooth on the palate, with fleshy red fruits and sweet spices coating the palate. A complex network of minerals and fine tannins slowly settles beneath this soothing blend. The lively acidity ensures that it remains fresh despite its structure. Accessible early, but with beautiful potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Riecine's Chianti Classico can be described without exaggeration as an archetype of the Gaiole terroir: Bright in the glass with wild fruits, blackberries and white pepper. These slightly wilder flavours are very specific to Gaiole in Chianti, particularly this corner of the sub-zone near the village after which it was named. This cool location produces a sharp and elegant Sangiovese with tension and crispness, savoury tannins, the return of small black fruits and a respectable finish. Riecine has been producing one of the most subtle Chianti Classico wines for years - a marvellous wine. SUPERIORE.DE

The year 2020 carries a heavy burden in our memories. Pandemic, silence, state of emergency. The vines didn't care. They grew – under a sun that knew no mercy in July and August. Up to 40 degrees in Tuscany. Water reserves scarce. The consortium's message: "annata versatile", a changeable vintage. What sounds diplomatic meant that the differences between the estates were greater in 2020 than ever before. San Filippo was one of the beneficiaries. The north-east exposure at 260 to 280 metres, the clayey-limestone subsoil with slate components – this terroir does not lose its freshness when others have long since lost it. Organic cultivation since 2013: soils that breathe, buffer. Vines that know stress, but don't break from it.