The Wine Advocate

912 bottles. That's all the plot yields. And sometimes the most precious things are right on your doorstep. Behind the family home, below Vigna Terlo, opposite Le Coste – there, Romina, Lucas's partner, owns 1,700 square metres of Nebbiolo. What began as a family vineyard became, in 2013, the youngest and rarest wine in the Roagna portfolio: a Barolo from Barolo, from the very municipality that gave the whole region its name. Luca deliberately avoids using an MGA designation. His plot in Terlo, he says, behaves differently from its neighbours – earthier, more idiosyncratic, less characterised by the finesse that distinguishes Coste and Ravera. However, the site's cool microclimate lends the wine a lovely tension and chalky tannins – whilst the soil imparts that organic sweetness which critics liken to redcurrants, irises and damp potting compost.

The name is history. Sapaio – an old Tuscan grape variety, long forgotten, but not its memory. When Massimo Piccin founded his winery in 1999, he chose this name as a sign of his deep connection to the terroir. A tribute to what was and a promise of what was to come. The vineyards extend over the municipalities of Bibbona and Castagneto Carducci, 40 hectares on quaternary deposits, from loose, coarse-grained sand deposits to alluvial soils with calcareous subsoil. Just ten kilometres from the sea, a microclimate that brings Bordeaux varieties to life. Since 2015, Piccin has been going his own way: instead of the prestigious Bolgheri Superiore DOCG, he deliberately chooses the free IGT Toscana, just to be able to add the handful of grapes from Bibbona that make Sapaio what it is today. Sometimes greatness means renouncing titles and regulations.

Ugolaia is a name that carries weight in Montalcino. The vineyard is situated in the classic Sesta area, facing south-west, on one of the sunniest and best-ventilated plots on the entire estate – and it embodies a tradition that Lisini takes to heart: The estate's 'veterans' – those most experienced staff members who have known the estate for decades – graft premium cuttings from the estate's own massalselection onto wild rootstocks by hand. No clonal selection from a catalogue, no technological shortcuts – just knowledge passed down from person to person, vintage after vintage.

At the heart of the Bricco Boschis lies a plot of just 2.38 hectares, which is considered the noblest corner of one of the most famous crus in the entire Barolo region: Vigna San Giuseppe. Here, on a medium slope with an ideal south-eastern exposure, 60-year-old Nebbiolo vines are rooted in the geological wonder that has shaped Cavallotto's wines for almost a century. It is the essence of Piedmontese winemaking, condensed into a few square metres – a monument to patience that is only vinified as a Riserva in the very best vintages. Good to know: The 2019 vintage is considered one of the most classic in recent history – a year that revived the great traditions of Barolo. Vigna San Giuseppe combines all the virtues of Bricco Boschi in its purest form: The complex geology of calcareous marl and layers of sand, the perfect drainage of the steep slopes, the unique microclimate that combines warm days with cool nights. The 60-year-old vines have sunk their roots deep into these ancient sea beds and produce grapes of exceptional concentration and elegance. The long ageing period – almost twice as long as the "normal" Bricco Boschis – gives the wine that unrivalled complexity and harmony that makes it one of the great Barolo wines of our time.

Barolo Ginestra Ciabot Mentin DOCG 2019 comes from one of Monforte's most prestigious parcels with a south-south-easterly exposure at an altitude of around 400 metres. The old Nebbiolo vines are deeply rooted in calcareous marl with veins of clay and sand, which gives the wine intensity and finesse. The 2019 vintage is considered one of the most classic of the last decade: long, balanced vegetation, mild summer heat and cool September nights produced grapes of rare aromatic precision. After being harvested by hand, the grapes were carefully vinified and matured in French oak for around 30 months.

Altesinos Montosoli displays the famous characteristics of this particular site, which are always characterised by a pronounced mineral intensity, with hints of crushed granite and lead pencil layers. The five-hectare vineyard has a higher concentration of Galestro clay-slate rock, and the altitude contributes to the freshness of the wine.

Pàtrimo is no ordinary southern Italian. Vinified purely from Merlot, this exceptional wine comes from ancient, ungrafted vines that Feudi di San Gregorio once discovered in the heights of Irpinia – a viticultural rarity and the foundation of one of Italy's most iconic red wines. Deep dark ruby colour with a violet rim in the glass. The bouquet shows Merlot in an unusual, Mediterranean way: Black cherry, ripe plum, liquorice and rosemary, underpinned by mocha, tobacco leaf, vanilla and graphite. Structured and opulent on the palate, but never overloaded: velvety tannins, extract-rich fruit, dark spice and a hint of balsamic freshness that balances the richness. The long ageing in new French barriques lends the wine noblesse without putting it in uniform.

Around 60% of the grapes for the Monvigliero are not destemmed, which enhances the aromatic nuances of the wine. The utterly enchanting 2021 Monvigliero is delicate and supple with aromas of cherries, boysenberries, violets and spices, with an excellent balance and a lingering aftertaste that reflects the main flavour themes. SUPERIORE.DE

The second novelty of the 2018 vintage is Vietti's Barolo Monvigliero. The special feature: Approx. 60% of the grapes are not destemmed, which enhances the aromatic nuances of the wine. Youthful notes of raspberry and blueberry are flanked by black pepper, gentian, porcelain and black olives. The palate has a beguilingly soft texture, fine and creamy, underpinned by wonderful laurel and floral aromas. Monvigliero impresses with its purity, its serenity and its class. Excellent. SUPERIORE.DE

Baroli from Serralunga d'Alba are often in a category of their own thanks to their richness and sheer abundance of fruit and simultaneous austerity. Initially restrained red fruit on the nose, dense and very concentrated on the palate. Lazzarito 2021 impresses with its powerful but ripe tannins, typical of Serralunga. This assertive and still very youthful wine is very long-lived and has an impressive drive on the impressively long finish. Let's give it the time it needs and it will delight us completely. SUPERIORE.DE

The fruit for this wine comes from a single vineyard that stretches over the crest of a hill. The name Schiena d'Asino (donkey ridge) is a reminder of this unique geography. The purity of the fruit is breathtaking and the wine emphasises the qualities that make Sangiovese one of the noblest of all Italian grapes. It offers a crystalline intensity with forthcoming flavours of bright cherries, balsamic herbs, aniseed, pressed violets and spice. This ensemble is balanced and nuanced. It shows amazing depth and complexity. SUPERIORE.DE

Rabaja and Asili are probably the most famous sites in Barbaresco. Medium, finely fragrant nose of rose petals, cherries and blue blossoms, with restrained ethereal herbal notes. On the palate, powerful, compact and with a well-proportioned cornucopia of black fruits such as blackberry and cassis, plus some liquorice. As the wine progresses, it shows its power and a certain pressure, which, however, never comes across as wild or ostentatious, but always reflects the elegance of the site and the Giacosa-typical ageing in large wood. Impressive aroma and length! SUPERIORE.DE

Siepi has always been more than just a vineyard – it was a vision waiting to become reality. Owned by the Mazzei family since 1435, this mystical place lies amidst dense oak forests near Castellina in Chianti: ten hectares of pure magic on Alberese soils, which even the ancient Romans knew how to appreciate. Paradoxically, the story of Siepi 2023 begins with one of the most challenging vintages of recent times. A mild winter with scant rainfall, followed by a rainy spring that pushed the Mazzei winemakers to their limits. And yet, or perhaps precisely because of this, a wine emerged that impressively embodies the estate's philosophy: "Great vineyards shine in difficult vintages."

Since its debut in 1988, Il Blu has been the result of constant striving for perfection. With ultra-fine tannins and a smooth and full finish, this full-bodied wine captivates with its complexity and elegance. Il Blu is made from only the best hand-picked and selected grapes from the two vineyards in the Chianti region. Although Sangiovese plays a leading role in the blend, its influence and signature contribute significantly to the overall identity of this special wine.

Altesinos Montosoli displays the famous characteristics of this particular site, which are always characterised by a pronounced mineral intensity, with hints of crushed granite and lead pencil layers. The five-hectare vineyard has a higher concentration of Galestro clay-slate rock, and the altitude contributes to the freshness of the wine.

In 1961, Alfredo Currado made history. Together with Prunotto's Bussia, Vietti released the first single-vineyard Barolo of the modern era – Rocche di Castiglione. Ever since, this vineyard has been inextricably linked with the Vietti name. Rocche is situated in Castiglione Falletto, directly opposite the winery, on the most exposed ridge in the municipality: soils from both geological periods – the Tortonian and the Serravalian – lie in a rare stratification one above the other, facing south to south-west, at an altitude of 250 to 320 metres. A transitional location between the elegance of the western communes and the power of the Serralunga style. The result is a Barolo of aristocratic poise – superbly structured, without ever being ostentatious. 20 days' maceration, malolactic fermentation in used barriques, 24 months in large wooden casks. In 2022, Vietti harvested earlier than usual – the Rocche retains heat differently to the lower-lying areas and required different decisions.

Rosso del Conte was Sicily's first answer to the question of whether the island could produce wines of international standing and longevity. Conte Giuseppe posed this question in 1970 – and the answer has been contained in every bottle coming from the high hills of Tenuta Regaleali ever since. The grapes – Nero d'Avola, Perricone and a small proportion of other varieties grown on the estate – ripen at an altitude of 480 metres, facing south-southeast, on loamy-sandy, slightly calcareous soil, trained using the Alberello system. Hand-harvested, traditionally fermented in stainless steel at a controlled temperature, 20 days on the skins, 18 months in new French barriques.

Galatrona is a pure Merlot in a class of its own. Black-red ruby in the glass. On the nose, black berries, fine wood spice and some leather. Very generous fruit aromas and extremely complex on the palate, it glides elegantly into the depths until it is caught by a finely woven tannin and passes into a long and finesse-rich finish. A wine that does not have to hide behind Masseto & Co., on the contrary, for us it has been Italy's Merlot benchmark for years. SUPERIORE.DE

In the summer of 1983, Elio Altare picked up a chainsaw and cut up his father's old Slavonian barrels. An act of rebellion, a break with tradition and the start of a revolution in Barolo. His father subsequently disinherited him, but Elio remained true to his path: Burgundian vinification, French barriques, shorter maceration and ageing periods. The Langhe traditionalists were appalled. But what of the wines? They sold out immediately. Today, Elio Altare is regarded as one of the "Barolo Boys", a pioneer of the modern Barolo style – and Arborina is his most famous flagship wine.

The Vigna Sorì Ginestra cru parcel stands proudly overlooking the rolling hills of Monforte d'Alba – one of the vineyards on which Conterno Fantino bases his entire winemaking art, true to the motto: "Il Barolo è il vino che ha fatto la nostra storia." (Barolo is the wine that made our history). The 2021 vintage, widely celebrated as one of the best of the decade, brought ideal conditions: a balanced ripening climate, cool nights paired with sun-drenched days. Hand-picking was carried out in mid-October – carefully selected, absolutely ripe. The ageing – around 24 months in French oak – was carefully chosen to anchor depth and elegance without masking the typical freshness of this unique Ginestra site.

Anyone looking for the truth in Sangiovese will find it here: Laura Brunelli's Montalcino has been a stunning wine full of vitality, life and energy for years. It displays an almost outrageous degree of clarity and openness. It unfolds brightly and radiantly with lasting purity, elegance and length. This Brunello shows extreme precision and focus, both on the nose and in the mouthfeel. Wild berries, blue flowers and liquorice come together in perfection, and it is impossible to surpass this quality at this price. SUPERIORE.DE

Ravera, located in the municipality of Novello, is one of the best Barolo vineyards that continues to surprise and impress despite the changing climate. Thanks to the high altitude and the open view of the snow-capped mountains, the microclimate is well ventilated but at the same time protected. Freshly cut flowers, white pepper and mint energise a wine that is now very shy and tightly wound. But it wouldn't be Ravera if pickled dark cherries, lavender, mint, crushed stones and sage weren't pouring out of the glass, creating a powerful, breathtaking Barolo endowed with great purity. A particularly stunning and breathtaking wine in the dream vintage of 2021. SUPERIORE.DE

It was in 1988 that Bruno and Brigitte Widmer dared to dream a bold dream that would change the world of Tuscan wine forever. Their Il Blu – named after the timeless blue label with its orange capsule – became an icon for an entire generation of Super Tuscans, a manifesto of modernity amidst centuries-old traditions. Today, after more than three decades of refinement, the certified organic Il Blu 2022 embodies Barbara Widmer's visionary continuity. What once began as a Sangiovese-dominated blend has evolved, thanks to the ever-increasing complexity of the Merlot vines from Radda – now over thirty years old – into a blend comprising 80% Merlot, with 10% each of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Vietti's Brunate parcels are located on the La Morra side of the cru site. It was fermented in stainless steel and then transferred directly to large oak barrels for ageing. Barolo Brunate is a powerful and vertical wine, endowed with enormous explosive energy and intensity. It offers engaging and penetrating aromas of cedar wood, red cherry, blood orange, sage flowers and rose. On the palate, its austere personality is evident and any connoisseur will realise that it needs a few more years in the bottle to develop. Dense and multi-layered, with great depth, chewy tannins and lingering red berries, this is already a fantastically complete wine. SUPERIORE.DE