Barolo

Ceretto's Barolo Bussia comes from one of the most famous cru sites bordering the municipalities of Monforte d'Alba and Barolo, sourcing its Nebbiolo fruit from a 7,000 square metre plot in Bussia Soprana in Monforte d'Alba. Just 3,500 1/1 bottles and 200 magnums are bottled.

"Vigna Rionda Riserva is for us every year the Barolo from Serralunga at the peak of its potential. It is the wine we are most proud of. Vigna Rionda, protagonist of the history of our winery, is one of the most sought-after and prestigious cru sites in the entire Barolo area. We are not just talking about microclimate and soil here: Something very special happens on this hill in Serralunga d'Alba, and this something gives the Vigna Rionda Riserva its life and makes it a truly unique wine." Franco Massolino

As always, Vietti's outrageously priced "entry-level" Barolo (formerly Castiglione) is based mainly on grapes from Ravera, with smaller portions from Ginestra, Mosconi, Bricco Ravera (in Monforte), Le Coste, Costabelle, Meriame, Briccolina and Codana. Ruby red colour of medium intensity. The nose is explosive, opulent, persuasive and immediate. Notes of plum, red and ripe black cherry, black cherry, rose petals and tobacco are perceptible. The palate is classic, rich, powerful, with notes of alpine herbs and a leathery finish. The tannin is already well integrated. Especially in the peak year 2021, this wine is an absolute insider tip in the winery's incredibly terrificBarolo line-up every year, and not just because of its price. SUPERIORE.DE

Giuseppe Massolino fell in love with a vineyard in 1956 and put all his eggs in one basket. In order to acquire a small part of the Vigna Rionda, he swapped a plot twice as large. Madness, people said. A stroke of luck, as it turned out. Because Giuseppe knew that Vigna Rionda was no ordinary vineyard. Since 1879, the name has been listed in Giovanni Gagna's book on viticulture in the Langhe – as one of the few places that produces exceptional wines. Before 1340, the land belonged to the Marquis of Saluzzo, then for centuries to the Falletti family. History knows many names for this hill: Vignarionda, Arionda, Rotonda – because of its round shape. But they all mean the same thing: the epitome of Serralunga.

Barolo Pira is a great, complex wine that has enormous depth and many nuances that open up further with time. It is light-footed yet wonderfully profound and has so much to offer. Cherry, sweet red cherry, spice, orange peel, menthol and spice fill out the layers effortlessly. Young Barolo tannins are present, but the fruit is rich enough to keep things in balance. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Rocche di Castiglione comes from a parcel just above the Cascina Pira of Roagna. It offers a captivating blend of supple fruit, soaring flavours and structure. The 2018 is silky and sensual through and through, as wines from this vineyard tend to be. It is transparent, beguiling and mesmerising from the very first sip. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Pira is a great, complex wine that has enormous depth and many nuances that open up further with time. It is light-footed yet wonderfully brooding and has so much to offer. Cherry, sweet red cherry, spice, orange peel, menthol and spice fill out the layers effortlessly. Young Barolo tannins are present, but the fruit is rich enough to keep things in balance. SUPERIORE.DE

"Transparent ruby red. The nose is reminiscent of a morning stroll in an oriental bazaar. The ethereal opening combines noble woods such as cedar and sandalwood until one enters the spice zone and juniper mixes with black pepper and cardamom as well as dark tobacco. The fruit vendors cheerfully offer cherries, raspberry jelly and preserved hibiscus blossoms, the florists have small violets on display. One of the market criers refreshes his bicycle chain with a quench of graphite and chews on a piece of liquorice with a smile. The ripe, leafy tannins of the Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti are tightly interwoven with extract-sweet fruit notes and the all-defining acid arc.

On the northern edge of the Barolo zone, where Verduno towers over the Langhe hills like an outpost of elegance, lies one of the most mysterious MGAs in the entire denomination. Pisapola – a name familiar only to the initiated, but for those who know it, it holds the promise of exceptional finesse. Here, on calcareous clay and sandstone soils between 250 and 300 metres above sea level, Matteo Ascheri creates a Barolo that expresses the unique personality of Verduno in its purest form. Verduno is different from the other Barolo communes. While Serralunga stands for power and Castiglione Falletto for structure, Verduno is a refuge of elegance and flavour. The complex soil composition of limestone-clay, silt and sandstone, criss-crossed by chalky veins, gives the wines that savoury note that makes Verduno-Baroli so unmistakable. It is no coincidence that the rare Pelaverga grape variety, famous for its white pepper flavours, also thrives here – a clear sign of the aromatic intensity that these soils produce.

The grapes for the deep Le Vigne come from Baudana in Serralunga d'Alba (for power), Villero in Castiglione Falletto (for precision), Vignane in Barolo (for purity of aromas) and Merli in Novello (for richness of fruit). It opens wide with aromas of fresh red fruits and a delicate spicy note. Very intense on the palate, remarkably elegant, fine-grained tannins, exceedingly clear, structured and long. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti comes from the estate's oldest vines, which were planted in 1937. As always, Pira Vecchie Viti is more about haunting, ethereal flavours than power. Sweet rose petals, mint, dried flowers, sweet red cherries and cedar give this beguiling, high-toned Barolo a captivating aromatic presence. A great wine. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Rocche di Castiglione comes from a parcel just above the Cascina Pira of Roagna. It offers a captivating blend of supple fruit, soaring flavours and structure. The 2019 is silky and sensual through and through, as wines from this vineyard tend to be. It is transparent, beguiling and mesmerising from the very first sip. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti comes from the estate's oldest vines, which were planted in 1937. As always, Pira Vecchie Viti is more about haunting, ethereal flavours than power. Sweet rose petals, mint, dried flowers, sweet red cherries and cedar give this beguiling, high-toned Barolo a captivating aromatic presence. A great wine. SUPERIORE.DE

Europe was on the brink of collapse in 1937, but someone planted Nebbiolo. These vines are still standing today – some on their original roots, protected by calcareous soils in which phylloxera was never able to gain a foothold decades earlier. Others were propagated using an ancient technique: a shoot from the mother plant is bent under the ground, takes root and becomes a vine in its own right. Genetically identical, but reborn. In this way, the vineyard is rejuvenated without losing its identity. One and a half hectares within the Pira monopoly position are reserved for these "veterans". Antonio Galloni called last year's 2019 vintage "one of the most poignant, beautiful wines I have ever tasted here" – 99 points for something that actually defies judgement. Because this Barolo is not about power, but about flavour and depth.

The single vineyard Serradenari is currently the highest vineyard in the Barolo area and at the same time the historic site of the appellation (MGA - Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva). The cool and mountainous climate with its clay and marl soils gives rise to a Nebbiolo here that is short on words - it is precise, clear and unambiguous.

Geologists speak of erosion. Winegrowers speak of fate. Over millions of years, the rocks above Castiglione Falletto weathered and formed the soil on which Pira now thrives. When Luca Roagna acquired half a hectare on these very Rocche in 2016, a circle was completed: the mother rock returned to the child. The parcel is located in the historic heart of the site, at the top of the hill at three hundred metres, with a pure southern exposure. Calcareous clay soils, interspersed with white rock and sand, nourish Nebbiolo vines from the 1960s and 70s – planted with vines from ancient stocks. Situated right next to the new winery, this vineyard is Roagna's most intimate property: just 0.48 hectares, from which a Barolo is created that Antonio Galloni simply calls "pure sensuality".

"For the Barolo DOCG Parussi, we left the confines of Serralunga and opted for a vineyard in Castiglione Falletto. Thanks to the characteristics of Nebbiolo, which is perfectly capable of capturing the differences in microclimate and soil composition and translating them into sensations, the result amazed us. Structured, important, austere. Made with Nebbiolo grapes from our vineyard in the MGA Parussi in Castiglione Falletto." Franco Massolino

Centuries ago, a private road led from the Castello of the noble Falletti family down to this vineyard. Today, there is no longer a road here, but a path through a jungle-like thicket – biodiversity as Luca Roagna understands it. When the family acquired these seven hectares in Castiglione Falletto in 1989, a long-cherished dream came true: a Barolo vineyard on a par with the legendary Pajè estates in Barbaresco. Even more: a monopoly. The vineyard lies on the south-eastern slope below the Rocche di Castiglione, protected by the rock above and four hectares of forest with a stream from the Bussia di Monforte below. The soils tell the oldest story of Barolo – marine sediments from the Helvetia, the geological formation shared only by Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga and Monforte. Six micro-parcels are differentiated by alternating layers of white limestone, grey and blue marl, interspersed with iron. The oldest Nebbiolo vines date back to 1937.

"The Barolo DOCG Parafada is perfect for long ageing and surprising development. Elegant, refined, austere. Vinified in vats, matured in large barrels. Made with Nebbiolo grapes from our vineyard in the MGA Parafada in Serralunga d'Alba." Franco Massolino

Mosconi 2021 comes from one of the most renowned crus of Monforte d'Alba – a site known for its brooding, clay-limestone soils and south-westerly exposure. The terroir here gives the Nebbiolo particular depth, warmth and structural density. The 2021 vintage was almost ideal in the Langhe: a cool, slow start to the growing season, followed by a stable summer without heat stress and a dry, sunny autumn created perfect conditions for the grapes to ripen slowly with high aromatic complexity and finely polished tannins.

The purchase of the Mosconi Cru parcels in Monforte by Pio Boffa is one of the last major decisions taken by the estate – with the aim of complementing the depth of Serralunga (Ornato) with Monforte gravity. Selective hand-picking; separate fermentation in stainless steel with a carefully extended maceration period, malolactic without haste. Classic ageing in large barrels, moderate proportion of French oak as a fine brushstroke of texture. The 2020 vintage fitted in well with the concept: a stable summer, clear nights for ripening and precise harvest – healthy, ripe harvest, polished phenolics and generous, balanced fruit were the result.

Cicala is the most masculine vineyard in the Conterno portfolio. Anyone familiar with the elegant, floral Colonnello from the same Bussia hilltop will be surprised here. Less sand, more clay. Less playfulness, more pressure. The calcareous clay soil is enriched with iron and limestone – minerals that give the wine the structural strength that distinguishes it from its siblings. The vines are 40 to 45 years old, facing south to south-west, and what grows here is mainly Nebbiolo Lampia on Rupestris du Lot rootstock. Only three producers own plots in this part of Bussia: Conterno, Prunotto and Bussia Soprana. Six hectares in total, around 800 crates per vintage. A rarity. Fermentation in steel tanks at 28°C, five to six weeks of maceration, then 29 months in 25-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels – no barrique, never. Aldo Conterno once said: "Vanilla, toast and spice do not belong in Barolo." The barrels are scraped every two years and used for a maximum of eight years. After ageing, the wine spends a few months in steel before being bottled unfiltered.

"For the Barolo DOCG Parussi, we left the confines of Serralunga and opted for a vineyard in Castiglione Falletto. Thanks to the characteristics of Nebbiolo, which is perfectly capable of capturing the differences in microclimate and soil composition and translating them into sensations, the result amazed us. Structured, important, austere. Made with Nebbiolo grapes from our vineyard in the MGA Parussi in Castiglione Falletto." Franco Massolino