Wines from Tuscany

Testamatta means something like "crazy in the head" and this name sums it up perfectly. When you know the mad obsession with which Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand highly personalised results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by several years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work until the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines from the rocky Serrone vineyard were finally identified.

Just 2,100 bottles of this 1.5-hectare single-vineyard Cabernet Franc "Campo di Magnacosta" (a former riverbed with mainly clay, gravel and crushed stone soil) are sold worldwide in specialised shops and on the menus of the best restaurants. The vines were planted in the mid-1990s and come from the Pomerol region. In terms of aromatic intensity, Magnacosta is probably the most sensual and elegant of the estate's three great Cabernets. It is very straightforward, but somewhat less powerful and intense. It subtly combines black fruit flavours with spicy notes, tar and antique leather. It is already silky and elegant and will certainly become even more refined over the years. SUPERIORE.DE

The hills south of Montalcino know no half measures. The Sant'Angelo vineyard in Colle, at 300 metres above sea level with all-day southern exposure, produces Sangiovese with an almost demonstrative strength of character – and the 2018 vintage gives this strength an elegant, cool note. A wet spring, hot June and July months, then a patient August with moderate temperatures and light rain showers: The vines had time to find themselves. The grapes were harvested in mid-September, with a yield of just 39 quintals per hectare – far below average, but concentrated. Col d'Orcia remains true to itself: maceration for 18 to 20 days in the characteristic flat, wide steel tanks – developed for gentle but effective extraction of colour and tannin. Then three years in large oak barrels from Slavonia and Allier (25 to 75 hectolitres), followed by at least twelve months of bottle ageing.

Gabbro in a small edition of just 2,500 bottles each year is the essence of Montepeloso's noblest Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, the vines are over 40 years old. Impressively complex bouquet of dark fruits, smoke and grilled vegetables. Reveals its pedigree and great class on the palate, powerful and muscular. Exquisite, complex, nuanced, persistent, long ... Gabbro truly offers everything that belongs to an unforgettable wine experience at world-class Cabernet level. SUPERIORE.DE

This is more than a wine – it is the essence of a project born in 1999 with the vision of showing the world the finest that Bolgheri is capable of producing. From five selected vineyard sites between 80 and 220 metres above sea level – argentiera, Ginestre, Ventaglio, Porcarecce and Ceccosodo – a cuvée has emerged that has been a contemporary symbol of Italian winemaking since its debut vintage in 2003. The 2021 vintage is the culmination of an extraordinary era: 48% Merlot is combined with 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc to create a Bordeaux-inspired masterpiece that nevertheless breathes an unmistakable Tuscan soul. Sourced from the Tenuta's best plots, where sandy, calcareous and stony soils thrive between Mediterranean scrub and the salty tang of the Tyrrhenian Sea, each grape embodies the unique terroir identity of this privileged location.

Rich, deep dark ruby colour with a fine violet sheen. Compact and appealing nose, showing crisp fruit, especially blackcurrants and mulberries, underpinned by fine chocolate tones. Extremely precise on the palate too: ripe, fresh fruit, opens with firm, densely woven tannins, develops rich pressure, then juicy and long-lasting in the vibrant final. SUPERIORE.DE

Grattamacco was the second winery in Bolgheri in 1982 and is still a firm favourite for great, terroir-driven wines with an independent character. The Rosso Superiore comes from high, coastal hillside vineyards with an excellent microclimate and matures for almost two years in French barriques after spontaneous fermentation. The cuvée deliberately does not follow the classic Bordeaux pattern: in addition to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Sangiovese also characterises the wine as an indigenous soul – a sign of identity, not convention.

The 30th vintage grappa is here: Amber-coloured in the glass like warm, shiny gold. The bouquet is delicately spiced with cedar wood, vanilla, cinnamon, cocoa and coffee, as well as delicate notes of candied fruit, a little honey and a fragrant, sweet hint of jasmine. Powerful on the palate, structured with a soft fullness; fine varietal fruit and herbal aromas blend very elegantly with warm spicy barrique notes, with a long final with a hint of aniseed and liquorice - a truly majestic grappa! SUPERIORE.DE

Testamatta means something like "crazy in the head" and this name sums it up perfectly. When you know the crazy obsession with which Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand highly personalised results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by several years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work until the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines in the rocky Serrone vineyard were finally identified. harvest is carried out exclusively by hand and each grape is meticulously selected according to quality and ripeness, which then finds its way to the wine cellar on the island. After destemming and gentle pressing under dry ice, the grapes are left to macerate for 48 hours at a low temperature before being transferred unfiltered to 225-litre barriques for fermentation, where the wine then matures for a further 12 months.

Traditionally vinified, its intense ruby red colour, the fruity aroma with spicy and balsamic notes and its gentle start on the palate, which builds furiously, are impressive. The high-class tannin structure rests between the soft components, so that this Brunello from the dream year 2019 simultaneously demonstrates elegance and strength without appearing too modern. SUPERIORE.DE

An exotic blend of sweet smoke and cloves gives way to dusty black cherries and a hint of sour citrus fruit as the 2019 vintage unfolds in the glass. After a while, there are hints of musk and floral undergrowth. Pure elegance on the palate, delicate and silky, but also with a core of salty minerals that adds unexpected depth to the vibrant flavours of tart wild berries and spices. Finishes with incredible persistence but also composure, structured yet primary, just as it should be at this young stage. The higher altitudes and almost minimalist winemaking at Le Potazzine have helped to produce one of the most balanced and interesting wines of the 2019 top vintage for us. SUPERIORE.DE

Black as the night – is how Andrea Franchetti himself described this wine when it was first vinified separately in 2014. Campo di Camagi is the extreme pole in Trinoro's Cabernet Franc trilogy: where Magnacosta floats and Tenaglia stretches, Camagi condenses. One and a half hectares at an altitude of 550 metres, a flat, stony soil of crushed quartz and limestone – hardly any humus, hardly any depth. The vines, which are over 27 years old, fight for every centimetre, their roots penetrating the hard layer and completely filling the limited space. This struggle for space, this competition in the soil, manifests itself in the wine: concentration, density, heaviness. Twelve months in steel tanks, eight months in barriques, a further twelve months in concrete – a vinification that gives the wine time to organise its power without taming it.

Where the sun sets – campo di Tenaglia is located where the light last touches the steep slope before sinking behind the contours of the Val d'Orcia. This site covers just eight tenths of a hectare at an altitude of 500 metres, but what grows here on craggy limestone and coarse, sandy soil has an intensity that stands out even among Trinoro's crus. The soil is over two metres deep, the roots of the Cabernet Franc vines, which are over 25 years old, reach into the mineral, the skeletal, and give the wine its powerful character – and give the wine its powerful character. Tenaglia epitomises tension.

In 2011, Campo di Magnacosta was the first of three single-varietal Cabernet Franc crus that Andrea Franchetti created based on the realisation that his 20-year-old vines, with their deep root systems, are capable of precisely reproducing the distinctive flavours of each individual terroir. This 1.5-hectare parcel is located on the valley floor at 400 metres, where an old stream disappeared beneath the surface and ate into the slope – magna costa, the "eating slope" – and left behind river sediments of gravel and silt. The vines were planted over two decades ago with cuttings from a vineyard in Pomerol, where Cabernet Franc has been growing for three centuries. This deep, permeable soil gives the Magnacosta a character that is fundamentally different from its two siblings: The wine seems to bubble with energy, is complex and relatively light in colour, yet deep and straightforward with an airy, fresh appearance.

Gigliola Giannetti was born on the Argiano wine estate, the daughter of an employee in the wine cellar. She grew up among barrels and vines, the smell of fermenting must was the scent of her childhood. At 19, she joined Franco Biondi Santi, and later Giulio Gambelli encouraged her to make wine herself. In 1993, the time had come: first parcel, first child – daughter Viola. Three years later came two more hectares and daughter Sofia. Today, three women stand together in the cellar and three generations of Montalcino in one line. Le Potazzine is one of the highest vineyards in the appellation: 450 to 530 metres, where the harvest begins up to three weeks later than in the valley. What used to be considered a disadvantage is now worth its weight in gold – the grapes ripen slowly, retain their acidity and develop finesse instead of mere vigour. Vinification is uncompromisingly traditional: spontaneous fermentation, 30 to 45 days of maceration, no temperature control. The wine then rests for 42 months in large Slavonian oak barrels – six months longer than is even required for a Riserva. So every Brunello from Le Potazzine is actually a Riserva. Why don't they call it that? Modesty, or perhaps quiet pride.

Le Lucére is not a wine for coincidences. The plot – almost 2.5 hectares, east-facing, Galestro and slate, vines that have been rooted in this soil for more than a quarter of a century – only becomes a single-vineyard bottling under certain conditions. 2018 was such a year, although the world of Brunello experts initially reacted cautiously. Wrongly so. The eastern exposure of San Filippo is a quiet privilege for cooler years: no blazing afternoon sunshine that burns the fruit and hardens the tannins. Instead – morning light, slow ripening, precision. The vines did not suffer. They concentrated. Caciorgna vinified in steel, fermented in concrete, put the wine first in barrique and tonneau, then in large 20 to 30 hectolitre barrels. More than three years of ageing, one year in the bottle. The wine needed the time.

Maurizio Castelli does not like fancy names. That's why he took a simple but original approach to naming the estate and its top wine: 414 – which is the number of the vineyard in the region's land register. His Morellino has become a true Italian classic with a modern interpretation. The grapes come from biodynamically farmed hills around Scansano with deep-rooted Sangiovese. The 2023 vintage was characterised by warm, sunny weather and moderate ripeness, ideal for aromatic clarity and balance. Temperature control during maceration and a subsequent maturation phase of around 12 months in large wooden barrels characterise this wine.

Le Macioche Riserva 2019 has the same slender and bright appearance as the Annata and the fine aromas of wild berries and cassis associated with Sangiovese. Racy and supple, it sweeps across the palate with a silky texture and shows tart wild berries and sour citrus fruit, all accompanied by lively acidity. The finish is long, with an earthy aftertaste. A very successful Riserva from a wonderful year, which has been interpreted very convincingly in this wine. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for Testamatta are selected and sourced from the winery's 6 best vineyards: Vincigliata, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Each vineyard, which is divided into plots, is harvested up to 8 times to ensure that all the grapes are harvested at the perfect point of ripeness. These five vineyards (up to 80 years old) are located in different areas of Tuscany: Lamole and Montefili in the heart of Chianti Classico at 600 and 400 metres above sea level, Vincigliata near Florence at 280 metres above sea level, Londa north of Florence towards the Rufina Valley and Siena, in the south of Tuscany, at 250 metres above sea level.