“San Lorenzo Piano delle Colombe” Rosso Etna DOC 2021

Girolamo Russo | Sicily
Az. Agr. Giuseppe Russo | Via Regina Margherita 79 | IT 95012 Castiglione di Sicilia

19242721 · 0,75 l · 252,00 €/l · Price (DE) incl. VAT, excl. Shipping8 units available
Limitation of 1 articles per customer

There are wines that exist and those that are virtually unavailable. Piano delle Colombe belongs to the second category – a "phantom wine" made from 750 bottles, a myth made of glass and time, a dream that only materialises for a select few. In the most sublime parcel of the prestigious Contrada San Lorenzo, on just 4,000 square metres of volcanic soil, Giuseppe Russo has created a wine that blurs the boundaries between reality and legend. The name tells a story that is as poetic as the wine itself: Girolamo, Giuseppe's father, claimed with a mischievous smile that the pigeons – "colombe" – always came to this small, flat area of the contrada to steal the very best grapes. "They have better taste than we do," he used to say as he watched the little thieves make their selection among the ancient Alberello vines. What began as a family anecdote became the name of a wine that is now one of the most sought-after treasures in the whole of Etna.

This microscopic parcel is fundamentally different geologically from everything else in San Lorenzo: while the rest of the Contrada rests on solidified lava flows, the soils of Piano delle Colombe were formed by a prehistoric volcanic explosion – a geological event that left behind a completely different soil structure and gave the terroir a uniqueness that is only fully revealed in the glass. Giuseppe's obsession with perfection reaches its peak here: 100% Nerello Mascalese from vines over eighty years old, whose yields are so low that every single grape is treated like a jewel. After ten days of spontaneous fermentation in small open vats and eighteen days of maceration, this exceptional wine matures for eighteen months in a single Liters tonneau and a used barrique – an ageing process so intimate and personal that Giuseppe supervises every drop.

Piano delle Colombe 2021 shines in a ruby red colour of hypnotic intensity, while its bouquet unfolds a kaleidoscopic aromatic experience: Wild raspberries and black cherries combine with notes of cinnamon, cloves and candied orange, underpinned by the smoky minerality that only explosive volcanic soils can produce. Hints of violets, hibiscus and Mediterranean herbs create an olfactory symphony reminiscent of the pigeons that once claimed these precious grapes as their own. A wine of such complexity and emotional depth unfolds on the palate that critics have labelled it a "masterpiece". Silky tannins of exceptional finesse carry layers of dark fruit, spicy balsamic notes and a salty minerality that lingers for minutes, telling a story that perhaps only 750 people a year can experience in its entirety. A wine that doesn't actually exist, and yet for those who are lucky enough to experience it, it can become one of the most intense memories of their wine life. SUPERIORE.DE

"A gorgeous red that glides across the palate, with an enticing skein of Earl Grey, incense, graphite and mineral notes winding through pureed raspberry and pomegranate flavors. Animated by blood orange peel–infused acidity, this is supple and silky. Fine tannins firm the lasting finish." Wine Spectator

"The 2021 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo Piano delle Colombe is intense and youthfully backward, grumbling up with a tightly coiled yet complex bouquet. Exotic spices emerge amidst a mix of dried berries, with shavings of cedar and hints of forest floor that ground the experience. It’s elegant and harmonious throughout. Textures of pure silk gain lift through brilliant acidity as a coating of chalky minerals saturates and ripe wild berry fruit cascade throughout. This tapers off with a piercing layer of fine tannin as violet inner florals and notes of tart blackberry linger on. This is the most complete interpretation of Piano delle Colombe I’ve experienced. In a word: superb." Vinous

"This has a vibrant, smoky minerality combined with delicate black pepper, orange zest and wild strawberries enhanced by cinnamon and rhubarb. Same delicacy on the palate with softness, integrated lifted acidity and energetic tannins. More elegant than powerful, this is a classy wine, tense and savory." James Suckling

"A balanced vintage like 2021 conveys a beautiful sense of consistency and intensity with pressed flower, wild berry fruit, cassis and a citrusy close. It is only produced in the best years. This is a stunning wine from Etna, and I say that because of its impressive clarity and precision of flavors." Wine Advocate