Wine

Lagrein is South Tyrol's great indigenous red wine variety – and in the Linticlarus version it shows its full potential. The name honours the Roman Castrum Linticlar, the ancient fortress above the winery, whose history dates back to the Stone Age. The Linticlarus selection is only produced in outstanding vintages. The grapes come from the Breitbach, Gruben and Milla vineyards near Entiklar, at an altitude of 230 to 300 metres. The calcareous, sandy alluvial soils give the wine mineral depth and structure. Mash fermentation in stainless steel is followed by 12 months in barrique – more than a third of which is new – then 6 months in large wooden barrels and a further year of ageing in the bottle.

Giallo d'Arles tells one of the most fascinating stories of Campania's wine culture. The "yellow of Arles" refers to the golden colour that Greco di Tufo takes on when it is fully ripe, but behind this lies Luigi Moio's deep connection to classical education and his vision of a wine that translates the ancient greatness of Greco into modern perfection. Here, where the Greeks recognised two and a half millennia ago that this grape variety finds its highest perfection on the tufa soils of Campania, Moio is writing a new chapter in an ancient success story. The vineyards of Lapio, located in the heart of the Greco di Tufo zone, offer ideal conditions for this demanding grape variety. Here, at an altitude of 400 to 500 metres, the roots of the old Greco vines penetrate the characteristic tufa layers – the volcanic deposits that gave the appellation its name and give the wine its unmistakable mineral character. The extreme temperature fluctuations between day and night, intensified by the altitude, create a beautiful tension between strength and elegance.

Poggio Landi comprises 75 hectares of vineyards, stretching from the historic vineyards in the north of Montalcino to the distinctive southern terraces. This expanse encompasses variations in soil, aspect and altitude – from 300 to 500 metres – providing the winemaker with a wealth of biodiversity that he utilises as if it were an instrument. The soils consist of Pliocene clays with marl, a geological composition that lends the Sangiovese structure and depth. 2019 played its part. A regular climate with no adverse conditions, a bountiful harvest of healthy, ripe grapes: what sounds so simple here is rare in Montalcino. Two weeks of spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, followed by 38 months in large French oak barrels of 30 and 54 hectolitres, and at least 6 months' bottle ageing.

A wine that takes its name from the estate's last noble family – and thus from a man who left his mark far beyond the world of wine. Count Guido Chigi Saracini, born in Siena in 1880, was not only the lord of Poggio Bonelli, but also a passionate patron of the arts. In 1932, he founded the Accademia Musicale Chigiana, which remains one of the world's most renowned centres for musical education to this day. He spent the milder seasons at his estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga – where the grapes for this Gran Selezione ripen today. It represents the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico hierarchy: exclusively Sangiovese from the finest south-facing slopes at altitudes of between 280 and 360 metres, where sun and wind ensure consistent ripening and aromatic complexity. Strictly limited yields of 50 quintals per hectare, twelve days of temperature-controlled fermentation, followed by a further ten days of maceration on the skins. Then patience: at least 24 months in French oak, followed by ageing in the bottle.

Like a precious legacy, this wine is steeped in the history of the Serristori patrician family, who acquired the Donoratico estate in 1512 and built the magnificent villa in 1660. From the shadow of these historic walls springs a wine that embodies the soul of the Tuscan Maremma – where the salty murmur of the Tyrrhenian Sea meets the warm hills of Bolgheri. In the vineyards of Argentiera – the estate within the Bolgheri DOC that lies closest to the coast and is also the highest in elevation – the grapes ripen amidst Mediterranean scrub and the endless blue of the archipelago. Here, on just twelve hectares of the Villa Donoratico vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot take root in sandy and rocky soils, whilst the subsoil is permeated by marine flysch rock – a geological memory of seas long past.

Dark ruby red in colour. The bouquet is a furious indication of what this opulent long-distance runner is capable of: full-flavoured heart cherry fruit, blue flowers, damp forest soil, elegant spice and a well-dosed use of wood alternate impressively. The attack is just as complex and multi-layered, followed by beguiling wild berries, precisely polished tannins and an extraordinarily elegant long final. Wow, this is pure fruit! SUPERIORE.DE

Laura Brunelli's Rosso is a blend of Sangiovese grapes from Podernovone – 500 metres above sea level on the south-eastern slope of Montalcino with south-western exposure – and Canalicchio on the north side of the village. The vines for the first vineyard were planted in 1998, those for the second in 1989. "Our Rosso is made from the same grapes as the Brunello," says Laura Brunelli. The wine is traditionally aged for a year in large oak barrels. It is extremely fresh every year and not without complexity. The aromas of redcurrants, wild strawberries, black pepper and juniper are followed by a bright bouquet of red fruits on the medium-bodied palate. It has velvety tannins and a refreshing, integrated acidity. A really great interpretation of the terroir and, as every year, a little Brunello. SUPERIORE.DE

Feudo di Mezzo is one of the most prestigious contrade on the northern slope of Mount Etna, a place where viticulture and volcanic rock have had a symbiotic relationship for centuries. At an altitude of around 600 metres, old Nerello Mascalese vines take root here in porous, ferrous ash, interspersed with lava boulders and basalt veins – a soil that gives the wine finesse, tension and depth. Alta Mora is Cusumano's ambitious project on Etna, and Feudo di Mezzo epitomises this vision: single-varietal, rigorously selected, with maximum focus on origin and character. The 2019 vintage on Mount Etna was characterised by elegance: a cool spring followed by a long, dry summer with cool nights. The grapes ripened slowly and harmoniously, with fine phenolic ripeness and a balanced acidity structure. After manual harvesting, fermentation took place with gentle maceration, followed by 12 months of maturation in French tonneaux and a long period of rest in the bottle.

Conte Vistarino's Pinot Nero Pernice, which is great every year, comes from the single vineyard of the same name and fascinates with its fine fragrance and elegance. Intense ruby red colour with garnet reflections. The bouquet is complex and rich with notes of violets and small red fruits, some roasted coffee and cocoa. Elegant, full-bodied on the palate, with present fruit, very balanced with a pleasant minerality and a long, spicy finish. The harmonious tannins make this wine elegant and give it a good backbone from start to finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The address is Castellina Marittima, twenty kilometres north of Bolgheri – just outside the DOC boundary that decides what name a wine may bear. A bureaucratic fact that changes nothing in terms of content: 14 hectares of organically cultivated vineyards on fossil-rich soils made up of minerals, iron ore, shell limestone and alluvial sand, facing the sea, with strong day-night temperature fluctuations – these are the conditions for which Bolgheri is famous. The estate is the project of two vinophiles: Austrian journalist Stephan Klasmann and Italian Oenologist Andrea di Maio, who previously vinified at Antinori's Guado al Tasso and Isola e Olena's Cepparello. Kappa is their real flagship – a Bordeaux-inspired cuvée of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, which is bottled after fourteen months of barrel ageing, with an annual production of around 18,000 bottles.

The Sanct Valentin line is the centrepiece of the St. Michael-Eppan winery and the Cabernet-Merlot is its only red cuvée. It has been part of this prestigious line since 2013, and the decision was a conscious one: not an experiment, but a red wine with the same claim to minerality, complexity and longevity that the white Sanct Valentin wines have embodied for decades. The vineyards are located in the warmest areas of the municipalities of Appiano, Caldaro and Cortaccia – at 250 to 400 metres, exposed to the south-west, on gravel moraine soils that drain exceptionally well and demand the concentration from both Cabernet and Merlot that makes extreme yield reduction possible in the first place. Merlot from the beginning of October, Cabernet in mid-October – hand-picked, individual selection, separate vinification. 20 days of maceration, 12 months in barriques and tonneaux. After blending, a further 10 months in steel to round off.

Misco Riserva is more than just a flagship wine – it is the concentrated result of decades of experience with Verdicchio at the highest level. The grapes come from the cru of the same name near Cingoli, a parcel with ideal south-east exposure, poor limestone soil and pronounced day-night contrasts. Only the best harvestare vinified – selected for its potential to develop fully, first in stainless steel and then for years in the bottle. Intense straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. The nose reveals yellow apple, citrus zest, lime blossom and a fine spiciness, underpinned by salty minerality and a hint of fennel. Dense, powerful and yet clearly contoured on the palate: with a juicy structure, taut acidity and a complex interplay of fruit, herbal spice and rocky notes.

Milo is the only municipality on the entire slopes of Mount Etna whose white wines are permitted to bear the suffix ‘superiore’. This distinction was enshrined in the DOC regulations in 1968 – and which takes account of the microclimate of this eastern flank: twice the rainfall compared to the northern side, an eastern exposure towards the Ionian Sea, cooling sea breezes, and volcanic soils composed of ash and Ripiddu lapilli. Amidst the mists of the summer nights that Marco de Grazia describes in his writings on Milo, the Carricante grape ripens here to a level of precision it achieves nowhere else on the volcano.

Verdeca is a grape variety that hardly anyone knows – and that is no coincidence. For centuries, it was used as the base material for vermouth, was rarely vinified as a single variety and was considered too unspectacular for its own bottle. Yet its history is an ancient one: Greek in origin, it probably arrived in Apulia with the first settlers and became native to the sandy limestone soils of Salento. Masseria Li Veli has given it a stage with the Askos project – and the wine critics have responded. Askos Verdeca is the only Apulian white wine ever to be honoured by Gambero Rosso with its Tre Bicchieri.

Vorberg – the name gives away its location: on the steep southern slopes of the Tschöggelberg, at altitudes between 450 and 650 metres, a Pinot Blanc thrives that reveals the full potential of this famous South Tyrolean grape variety. The stony, sandy-loam soils, formed from weathered porphyry, with their high quartz content and slightly acidic pH levels, characterise a terroir of extremes: high water permeability, limited nutrient availability and naturally low yields. This microstress elicits unique, terroir-specific polyphenols from the vines. Hand-harvested, gently pressed as whole bunches, followed by natural sedimentation. Slow fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature in large oak casks (70 and 30 hl), followed by partial malolactic fermentation and 12 months' ageing on the fine lees in traditional wooden casks.

Castello di Ama thinks in concentric circles. The Chianti Classico Ama is the outermost – approachable, direct, meant to be enjoyed straight away. The San Lorenzo Gran Selezione is the innermost – dense, expressive, meant to be laid down for decades. In between, with the release of the 2018 vintage, came the Montebuoni: a Chianti Classico Riserva that aspires to the depth of the San Lorenzo whilst retaining the drinking pleasure of the Ama. Castello di Ama itself calls it the most honest expression of the Sangiovese grape's elegance in this terroir – and that is saying a lot, coming from a winery that has helped set the benchmark for this elegance. Montebuoni comes from the valley of the same name – the south-westernmost and, at the same time, climatically most diverse of the four Ama vineyard sites, situated between 420 and 508 metres above sea level. The soils vary: heavy clay at the bottom, limestone and scree at the top. Both give the Sangiovese something different – structure and body from below, freshness and minerality from the higher elevations. This interplay is the secret of the wine.

This Riesling is an exceptional phenomenon: it grows on the black, barren lava soils of northern Etna at an altitude of almost 900 metres – in a microclimate that is almost alpine. The grapes come from the historic Contrada Sciaranuova, a place shaped by the massive eruption of 1614. Wines of salty tension, cool precision and a depth that is unrivalled in southern Italy are produced here. Fermentation and ageing take place exclusively in stainless steel in order to preserve freshness and pure expression of origin. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with a silver sheen. Crystal-clear citrus notes, green apple, white peach, smoke and a fine hint of petrol on the nose – subtle, not overpowering. Vibrant and slender on the palate, with focussed acidity, mineral density and a long, almost crystalline final. Great with oysters, scallops or purist Japanese cuisine. SUPERIORE.DE

The vines from which the Chardonnay grapes for the Rio delle Rose come are over 80 years old. Fine, exotic and noticeably mineral bouquet of pome fruit, apple, citrus peel, white flowers, some flint and a hint of banana and pineapple. On the palate, it is driven forward, with beautiful pressure and juicy tension, then again this fine minerality in the further course and a very delicate, never-ending melt in the long, complex finish. Very balanced and big - with its subtle restraint and great personality, Rio delle Rose is for us one of the best Chardonnays from Friuli! SUPERIORE.DE

The area around the small town of Milo is the only vineyard site on Mount Etna where an Etna Bianco may be bottled as a ‘Superiore’ – and for good reason: on this steep vineyard, consisting of dozens of small terraces, only Carricante may be planted. The vines are trained like small saplings on chestnut wood stakes. The east-facing aspect and the proximity of the sea allow the grapes to ripen late, resulting in very consistent acidity levels and, ultimately, a white wine of aromatic finesse and freshness that is unrivalled even on Mount Etna. More floral and citrusy on the nose than the standard Carricante, the Superiore also exhibits slightly more body, acidity, depth and finesse. Its elegant acidity makes it vibrantly fresh and long-lasting, ensuring an exciting drinking experience and excellent ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The name alone reveals the poetry of this vintage sparkling wine. For decades, Perlé has been considered the essence of Ferrari's art, born from a meticulous selection of the best Chardonnay grapes from the Trentino mountains. The grapes for this Millesimato come from altitudes between 300 and 600 metres. Here, where the vines are bathed in mountain sunshine throughout the day but rest at night in the cool mountain air, the Chardonnay develops the mineral depth and aromatic complexity that makes Perlé so unmistakable. The Lunelli family only selects the very best batches – the grapes that most purely reflect the terroir. Perlé matures for almost five years on the fine yeasts – an exceptionally patient maturation period that gives the sparkling wine its characteristic creaminess and delicate yeast notes that harmonise perfectly with the fruity elegance of the Chardonnay.

In the hallowed halls of Casòn Hirschprunn, where history and innovation meet in the vaults of the 13th century, a red wine is created that epitomises the future of South Tyrolean viticulture. Here, in the middle of the 30 hectares of biodynamic vineyards between 230 and 360 metres above sea level, Alois Lageder ventured a visionary experiment in the 1980s: the cultivation of Tannat, an exotic grape variety from south-west France that proved to be exceptionally suitable for the Alpine future in the face of climate change. "Negli ultimi anni, ci siamo appassionati sempre di più al Tannat" – the Lageder family confesses their growing passion for this exceptional variety, which is immediately recognisable in the vineyard thanks to its characteristic red leaf stalks. What began as an experimental curiosity developed into a philosophy: not to celebrate the typicality of individual grape varieties, but to let the unique terroir of a vineyard speak for itself – a guiding principle based on the great châteaux of the Bordelais.

The grapes for the Cortazo are grown in the hot Brenntal vineyard in Kurtatsch, which is ideal for ensuring the Cabernet Sauvignon reaches the required level of ripeness. A deep ruby red colour. A harmonious bouquet of violets and wild berries. On the palate, it is full-bodied and complex, with a lovely core of fruit and subtle extract sweetness, velvety tannins and a long finish. Excellent Storage potential. SUPERIORE.DE