Wine Spectator

Enrica and Ettore learned winemaking from none other than Giancarlo Pacenti. The grapes for this vinophile masterpiece come from a small vineyard in Castelnuovo dell'Abate. Deep, full-bodied expression with warm aromatic layers adding impressive intensity to the bouquet of dark plum, blackberry, dried cherry, liquorice, tar, black truffle and leather. Then on the palate, a beguiling extract sweetness, again very complex and resonant, in quiet unison with the characteristics of the exceptional terroir. The 36 months of very slow ageing in large oak barrels provide a wonderful harmony and a very good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for one of the most elegant and ethereal Vin Santo wines in Chianti Classico are dried before being pressed, and then sealed in barrels for nine years. Paolo de Marchi calls it "lazy winemaking" and admits: "The blending process is actually the most challenging part, as every cask is different and, after tasting 10 casks, your palate starts to tire". The result is a very elegant and pure Vin Santo, displaying beguiling notes of candied fruit, honey and sweet spices. The balance between sweetness and acidity keeps the wine light, lively and refreshing, and it has a smoky edge on the finish. This is a superb Vin Santo, and although it has more than 200g/l of residual sugar, it is surprisingly light, refreshing and easy to drink. SUPERIORE.DE

In the hills south of Castelnuovo dell'Abate, where the soils are characterised by galestro and clay and the view sweeps over the Orcia Valley, a Rosso is created that can hardly be called a "second wine". Poggio di Sotto elevates the genre of Rosso di Montalcino to an art form and the 2022 vintage emphasises this with rare clarity. The year was warm, but not impetuous: after a dry winter, the summer brought high temperatures, but also large temperature differences between day and night. The autumn, dry and mild, allowed for a late, staggered harvest: An advantage for a winery that harvests Sangiovese as selectively as if it were a Grand Cru. The wine is fermented spontaneously in open wooden vats and matured in large Slavonian oak barrels – for almost three years, although the law requires far less. What would be a Brunello in other cellars is deliberately bottled as a Rosso here. And that is by no means an understatement, but a stylistic decision.

Set amongst the hills of Bibbona, where the vineyards of the Alta Maremma overlook the Tyrrhenian Sea, this characterful cuvée is the result of an ambitious project by the Antinori brothers. The name Insoglio is a poetic reference to the places where wild boars root around in the ground – a symbol of the wild, unspoilt nature of the Maremma landscape. Composed mainly of Syrah, complemented by Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine displays an intense purplish-red colour with violet highlights.

Sandro Chia's remarkable 2020 vintage is taut, forward and downright bold in the glass. On the palate, it impresses with a lot of natural richness and beautiful opulence of fruit, complemented by varietal elements of wild cherry, blue flowers and soft earth. Secondary flavours of tobacco, cedar and cinnamon then quickly surprise, adding complexity and personality to the wine, which is built up in many deep layers. It has wonderful potential for further ageing in the bottle, but it is already an absolute delight and the quality of the fruit and its length make it irresistible. SUPERIORE.DE

From the oldest Merlot parcel in the Le Sondraie vineyards comes Bell'Aja's flagship wine – a wine that impressively demonstrates the ambition of the San Felice project in Bolgheri. Since 2016, this Tenuta has completed the Tuscan wine interpretation of the historic group: from the hills of Chianti Classico to the prestigious vineyards of Montalcino to this radiant jewel on the Etruscan Coast. Bell'Aja Superiore embodies the pure essence of a unique terroir: 95% Merlot from the Tenuta's most venerable vines is combined with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon to create a wine of impressive power and opulence. The sandy-loamy soils of the Le Sondraie zone, just five kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, give this Bordeaux-inspired blend the maritime minerality that makes Bolgheri one of the most fascinating terroirs in the wine world.

Titolo Superiore is a selection that is aged for 12 months in tonneaux, followed by 12 months in used barrels and finally 12 months in the bottle. It has a dark, musky character and presents an earthy bouquet that blends with grilled herbs and blackcurrants. It flows across the palate like pure silk, gaining further tension as the mineral-driven flavours of wild berries slowly come to the fore. Firm, well-proportioned tannins glide into the finish, which tapers off in a structured, long and almost salty manner. Citrus fruits and residual acidity lend a refined freshness. Wonderful! SUPERIORE.DE

North-west of Montalcino, where the hills become wilder and shadier and the view stretches towards the Maremma, Castello Romitorio lies in a secluded spot that truly lives up to the estate's name. Romitorio – hermitage. When Sandro Chia acquired the dilapidated castle in 1984, it had been uninhabited for decades, having most recently served as a shelter for shepherds and their flocks. He filled it with art and planted the slopes with old Sangiovese clones – without realising what distinctive character this north-western microclimate would one day bring to the bottle. The vineyards receive less direct sunlight than the south-facing slopes; temperatures are cooler and ripening occurs later – conditions that lend the Sangiovese elegance rather than power.

The grapes for the Annata, which was certified organic for the first time in 2020, come from a 13-hectare site at an altitude of 500 metres. The soils here are somewhat lighter and stonier than the average for the appellation, with slate-rich Galestro and calcareous Alberese. As always, Poggio Antico's 2020 vintage is authentic and classic, with bright fruit tones, wild cherries, roasted nuts, blue flowers and forest floor. While the other wines in the portfolio mature in smaller tonneaux, this wine is aged in large Slavonian barrels. We like the energetic lift and the simultaneous brightness of the fruit - the winery achieves this like no other. As the wine progresses, the approach is very delicate with a convincing intensity of floral aromas and a silky mouthfeel. A lively acidity ensures balance and freshness right to the end, while a salty, mineral note is added on the finish. As always, this Brunello from the best winery is a safe bet! SUPERIORE.DE

Translucent purple with a fresh garnet red rim. The bouquet is a potpourri of dried fruits, truffles, dark chocolate and delicate nougat notes. Opens fruity and velvety on the palate and will give pleasure for many years to come with its straightforwardness and wonderfully integrated acidity. SUPERIORE.DE

Founded in 1970, Poggio Antico is one of the defining names of the last fifty years in Montalcino, having been run for over three decades by the Milanese couple Paola Gloder and Alberto Montefiori. In 2017, Paola Gloder sold the estate to Marcel Van Poecke, a Belgian energy entrepreneur and founder of Atlas Invest – a graduate in agricultural science for whom entering the wine business was less a hobby and more a return to his first love.

Since the 16th century, the Allegrini family has been playing a part in the history of Valpolicella. Giovanni Allegrini, the visionary, is regarded as the architect of its renaissance. A man they called "il ragno delle botti" – the cellar master spider – because he would wander restlessly amongst his barrels, always in search of perfection. His son Franco carried on the legacy, revolutionising the appassimento process with the construction of Terre di Fumane – a state-of-the-art drying facility that precisely controls temperature, humidity and air circulation. Since 2022, the estate has been in the hands of the third generation: Francesco, Giovanni, Matteo and Silvia. The Amarone is made from vines that have been rooted in the hills of Fumane for over 30 years, at altitudes of between 450 and 520 metres, on clay and limestone soils of volcanic origin. Corvina Veronese and Corvinone each account for 45% of the blend, complemented by Rondinella and Oseleta. Following the hand-harvest in September, the transformation begins: the grapes rest for four months in the "Fruttaio", losing 40 to 45% of their weight whilst concentrating their sugars and aromas. In January, gentle pressing takes place, followed by 25 days' maceration at a controlled temperature. Ageing: 18 months in new barriques, a further seven months in large casks, and finally 14 months' bottle ageing – a total of over three years before the wine leaves the estate.

2019 was a gift to Nebbiolo in the Barbaresco DOCG - and Vanotu has accepted it. This Barbaresco from the historic Basarin cru vineyard in Neive bears the signature of a great vintage with quiet naturalness: nothing is overdrawn, nothing loud - everything is in its place with quiet precision. The vines stand on sparse limestone marl, interspersed with sandy veins, with optimal south-west exposure. This site produces wines with depth and tension, but also airiness - a play of power and transparency that is exemplified in Vanotu 2019. The wine was matured for 20 months in French barriques, sensitively dosed, only to frame the wine, not to mould it.

The grapes come from family-owned plots in Serralunga d'Alba, La Morra, Grinzane Cavour, Monforte and Mosconi. Each vineyard is harvested separately by hand and fermented in stainless steel; long maceration times with gentle remontages ensure a fine, complete extraction. For ageing, the winery predominantly uses large Slavonian oak barrels (botti), supplemented by a smaller proportion of French oak, which adds lustre to the texture without masking the origin. Thanks to a stable summer and cool nights in autumn, 2020 produced ripe, healthy harvestwith a clear acidity line and precise aromas.

The Vigna del Sorbo vineyard is located directly in front of the winery. The south-west facing vineyard with Galestro soils covers 8 hectares at an altitude of 450 metres. The Riserva was first produced in 1985 and has been labelled Gran Selezione since the 2010 vintage.

Podere Uccelliera is located on the south-eastern slope of the hill of Castelnuovo dell'Abate, where the view falls on the extinct volcano Monte Amiata and the breeze from the Orcia Valley blows through the vineyards. Not a large estate, not a marketing machine. Nine hectares, one man, one idea of wine. Andrea Cortonesi comes from a Mezzadria family that cultivated these lands for generations, long before Brunello was a word the world knew. In 1986, he bought the old Podere – with centuries-old olive trees, half a hectare of vines and the firm intention of creating something lasting here. He had previously worked at Ciacci Piccolomini, Poggio di Sotto and Mastrojanni – as a cellar master, as an observer, as a learner. What he took with him was not a recipe. It was a flair. He vinified his first Brunello in 1991.

Le Serre Nuove carries Ornellaia's DNA in every fibre; born of the same vineyards, shaped by the same philosophy. What Marchese Lodovico Antinori began in 1981 as a visionary experiment – planting French grape varieties on the Tuscan coast, four kilometres from the Mediterranean – has long since become a legend. Le Serre Nuove, the estate's "Second Vin" since 1997, is far more than just its younger sibling: it offers a preview and an invitation to discover that Mediterranean Bordeaux style which made Bolgheri world-famous. Following a mild winter and early budburst, the 2023 vintage saw frequent rainfall during flowering and fruit set; whilst this reduced yields, it endowed the grapes with that perfect physiological balance which characterises great wines. Cooler summer conditions and timely August rains allowed for ideal ripening. The cuvée, comprising 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, is vinified separately by grape variety and aged for 15 months in French oak – 25% in new barrels and 75% in one-year-old barrels.

Le Ragnaie is located on the highest vineyards in Montalcino. Riccardo Campinoti, who took over the estate in 2002 together with his American wife Jennifer, has created a vineyard here at an altitude of – 530 to 600 metres above sea level, surrounded by oak forests, olive groves and a small lake – has realised a philosophy that cannot be taken for granted in Montalcino: maximum transparency. No purchasing, no concentration through technology, no new barriques. Natural yeasts, concrete tanks, long macerations, Slavonian oak barrels. The wine tells what the vineyard says – and nothing more. The name of the estate refers to the ragnatela, the spider's web – the shape of the traditional bird-catching nets that were once spun here when Montalcino was poor and people caught birds to feed themselves. The history of Brunello has changed this. But the nets – in the figurative sense – have remained: fine, taut, precise. Brunello di Montalcino is the assemblage of all the parcels of the estate – a combination of the different exposures and altitudes of the central zone, vinified separately and only bottled together after three years.

You have to earn that nickname. They call the Montestefano the "Barolo of Barbaresco" – and anyone who's tasted a good vintage will understand why. The vineyard is situated just a few metres from Montefico; it shares its southern exposure and calcareous subsoil, but is significantly steeper. Excellent drainage, harvest late harvest, and a warmer microclimate thanks to protection from north winds: these are the conditions under which the Nebbiolo reaches maximum ripeness here – an almost smoky depth, full of power. The Produttori del Barbaresco have been vinifying Montestefano as a single-vineyard wine since 1974; the winemaking process has remained unchanged for decades: 28 days' maceration at 30 degrees, followed by at least thirty months in large Slavonian oak barrels.

Castello di Volpaia made wine history in 1983: In the midst of the Supertuscan revolution, when visionary winegrowers rebelled against the restrictive DOC regulations, Balifico was born – named after the villa of the same name in the heart of the fortified village. What began as Vino da Tavola became the manifesto of a new era that combined international grape varieties with Tuscan soils to create an extraordinary synthesis. The grapes for this exceptional wine thrive at the highest altitudes in Tuscany, at over 600 metres above sea level, where the air is already cool like the Alps and the vines are bathed in sunlight all day long. Sangiovese vines, old Tuscan clones of exceptional purity, are rooted in the same sandstone soils that have been producing great wines since 1172 – while Cabernet Sauvignon, with its international nobility, interprets the mountainous personality of this unique terroir in a new way.

A bold "statement wine" from the south-west coast of Sardinia: Barrua blends 85% Carignano with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – a powerful blend from old vines growing on calcareous sandy-loam soils close to the sea. The grapes are carefully harvested by hand, vinified separately and then aged for 18 months in French barriques. Following a period of rest in a concrete tank and several months' bottle ageing, the wine now displays impressive balance.

Montegrossi's delicious Vin Santo del Chianti Classico matures for seven years in traditional Caratelli barrels made from oak, cherry and mulberry wood. It shows a marvellous concentration with thick glycerine that slowly runs down the rim of the glass with thick streaks of amber colour. The flavours are of astonishing intensity with explosive notes of candied fruit, brown sugar, maple syrup, caramel, toffee, butterscotch and dried apricots. With its pleasant and very balanced sweetness, it is a wonderful accompaniment to desserts, foie gras or soft cheeses. SUPERIORE.DE