The Wine Advocate

Cepparello – named after the small stream that rises at the highest point of the Isole e Olena vineyards. Since 1980, this name has embodied Paolo De Marchis's revolutionary vision, at a time when 100% Sangiovese was still taboo in Chianti Classico. With this wine, the Piedmontese visionary not only created one of the first Super Tuscans, but also what is arguably the most authentic portrait of the Sangiovese grape – pure, uncompromising, unadulterated. The Sangiovese vines grow on the estate's finest plots, facing south-west at an altitude of 400 to 480 metres, on the characteristic Galestro soils. These schist-rich clay soils lend the wine its unmistakable minerality and elegance. The 2020 vintage embodies De Marchi's signature style in its purest form. Following a mild, dry winter and a sudden drop in temperature in March – which required the utmost vigilance against frost damage – a classic Tuscan summer ensued. Dry and mild until the end of August, followed by scattered showers before the weather settled in September – ideal conditions for grapes of exceptional quality and quantity.

The small, 80-year-old vineyard of Pietrabona on the island of Giglio produces an Ansonica of outstanding quality, and so Bibi Graetz decided to vinify the grapes separately in small batches. The vines stand on a bed of rocks and granite sand less than 50 metres from the sea, resulting in a wine with a subtle aroma of ripe oranges, fine spice, flint and minerality. SUPERIORE.DE

From the exceptional 2016 vintage, just 3,000 bottles made it onto the market. The grapes for this exceptional Chianti Classico come from vines growing to the south-west at an altitude of between 350 and 480 metres above sea level. The soil here is characterised by galestro and limestone. A rich, deep ruby colour with a velvety sheen. Complex, concentrated aromas of plum, black cherry, spices and menthol. Complex on the palate, with a multifaceted character and flavour profile that opens up gradually, revealing its full spectrum only to those with patience. A flagship wine of great depth, class and irresistible charm. SUPERIORE.DE

There are wines whose very name sends shivers down your spine. Ornellaia belongs to that rare category of wines that not only embody Italian iconography but have also made their mark on global wine history. Ever since that legendary 1985 vintage, when Marchese Lodovico Antinori, together with the visionary OenologistAndré Tchelistcheff, turned the dream of a Mediterranean Bordeaux into reality, this name has stood for uncompromising excellence. The 2022 vintage bears the motto "La Determinazione" – determination – and this characterisation could not be more apt for a vintage that demanded everything from both the vineyard team and the vines. The climatic conditions in 2022 presented a challenge straight out of a textbook: the driest start to the growing season in the last four years, from February to June, was followed by the hottest period between May and September. Extremes that initially seemed to contradict one another. The prolonged drought slowed growth dramatically, resulting in low yields and concentrated, small-berried grapes. But then came the saving rain in August and September – perfectly timed to restore the balance that characterises great wines. The technical team, led at the time by Axel Heinz and Oenologist Olga Fusari, responded with rigorous selection: in the vineyard and then again in the cellar. The result of this determination is a wine that combines the positive attributes of the sun with surprising freshness.

Fragrant and fresh on the nose with beautiful concentration and complexity. Summery aromas of stone fruit, ripe peach, jasmine and a hint of fragrant beeswax. The racy, slender mouthfeel has a certain density and reveals an elegant hint of gravel and chalk and flavours of white almonds on the finish. Everything is already in its place here today, but it will become even more complex with further bottle ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

2020 is the first organic Oreno vintage. Deep dark ruby violet. On the nose, cassis, blackcurrant and a powerful herbal spice with a good dose of pipe tobacco, tar and crushed boulders. On the palate, dark berries, chocolate and a cornucopia of herbs define the full body. This juicy wine monument has precisely integrated tannins, an enormous silkiness and a seemingly endless finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Tasting the different lots of Il Marroneto from the barrel is a fascinating task. The vines are all similarly situated at high altitude, on coarse sand of marine origin, and predominantly north-facing. While they have subtle differences, the distinct character of Madonna delle Grazie often merits a separate bottling - as the 2018 proves. The aromas take on the darkest, most heady purple florals, tangled in allspice and smoky incense. The wine is muscular with firm tannins that grip it tightly and don't let go, though it is never beefy, heavy or angular. At the moment it is still developing, but the finish already reveals a refined balsamic core and a spicy, salted plum. SUPERIORE.DE

Two hands, one dream: When Elena Celli and Luca D'Attoma discovered the wild hills of Riparbella in 2000 – unploughed, stony and overgrown with macchia – they recognised the potential of this rugged terroir, situated at an altitude of between 250 and 300 metres. Here, where the salty breeze from the Tyrrhenian Sea meets Mediterranean wilderness, one of Italy's most extraordinary Cabernet Francs has been produced for over two decades. Luca D'Attoma, legendary Oenologist and creator of iconic wines such as Le Macchioles Messorio, is committed to radical purity: biodynamic cultivation in accordance with Demeter guidelines, spontaneous fermentation in conical oak barrels, and 20 months' ageing in barriques comprising 80% new oak.

A beautiful, very sensual, feminine wine that is only vinified in the best vintages. Exquisitely flavoured with dark fruit, elegant and fine on the palate with plenty of fruit and length. It was named after the nickname once given to the young wild Clerico by his father: Aeroplan Servaj - wild aeroplane. And the labelling of the six bottles is just as wild and creative, but see for yourself! SUPERIORE.DE

Rare, exceptional Merlot from the west of Tuscany: deep ruby red with violet reflections. The bouquet is multi-layered with hints of wild berries and blackberries, ripe cherries, but also liquorice and tobacco notes. Very structured and lively on the palate. The silky tannins emphasise the delicate minerality right through to the almost endless finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The single vineyard Il Bricco, situated on both sides of the hilltop, the highest point is about 410 metres above sea level. Family-owned since the 1970s, you can expect great things every year. 2020 brought a stable summer, with a precise cooling in September and cool nights until the harvest. The result is very healthy, aromatically ripe grapes with clear fruit and balanced acidity – charming on the palate, yet precise and persistent. After separate fermentation of the batches in stainless steel, the wine is matured traditionally in large barrels and a moderate proportion of barrique is used for texture.

"Vigna Rionda Riserva is for us every year the Barolo from Serralunga at the peak of its potential. It is the wine we are most proud of. Vigna Rionda, protagonist of the history of our winery, is one of the most sought-after and prestigious cru sites in the entire Barolo area. We are not just talking about microclimate and soil here: Something very special happens on this hill in Serralunga d'Alba, and this something gives the Vigna Rionda Riserva its life and makes it a truly unique wine." Franco Massolino

In the year 994, the son of the Lombard king Berengario presented what is now Gagliole to his bride – a token of love whose legacy lives on in the vineyards to this day. The Pecchia, named after the Old Tuscan word for "bee", embodies the essence of this legendary terroir from Panzano's Conca d'Oro. Here, at an altitude of 500 metres on the north-western edge of the golden valley, the purest Sangiovese thrives on that rare Pietraforte limestone which lends Gagliole's wines their unmistakable minerality. "Vinificazione integrale" – a process developed in 2002 by Baron, France's oldest cooperage – is what makes this wine so special. Whole bunches of grapes ferment in specially designed barriques with enlarged openings, allowing every hint of aroma from the hand-picked berries to infuse the wine. Eighteen months in French oak, followed by a further eight months in concrete tanks and at least one year's bottle ageing, create a depth and complexity that is only possible in the very best vintages.

This is the crowning glory. The Riserva is only produced in historically exceptional years – and even then only from the very best barrels, those that Giuseppe "Bepi" Quintarelli personally selected and that his family continues in his tradition today. The 2015 marks such a moment of perfection. While the regular Amarone is released after seven years of barrel ageing, this Riserva spent over eight years in large Slavonian oak barrels before being bottled at the end of 2023. An additional year of patience for the absolute peak. The cuvée of 55% Corvina and Corvinone, 30% Rondinella and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Croatina and Sangiovese undergoes the legendary ritual: five months of appassimento until the end of January, deliberate promotion of botrytis, twenty days of maceration, 45 days of slow fermentation with wild yeasts. What follows is a maturity that combines monumentality with elegance. The 2015 presents itself as a warm, sunny vintage with 16.5 percent alcohol and three to four grams of residual sugar per Liters, which lends additional volume and depth to the final.

Podernovi is San Polo's great single-vineyard Brunello. Ruby red colour with light garnet reflections. On the nose, floral aromas of violets, cyclamen and jasmine, notes of fresh fruit and spicy notes. In the mouth, round, full of harmony and with a good structure and acidity, as well as very soft tannins that show excellent persistence overall. A wine of almost endless length, depth and with a distinct character that lingers in the memory. SUPERIORE.DE

The fruit for this top-class Barolo, which is exceptional not only because of its six different labels, comes from the MGA Baudana in Serralunga d'Alba, whose vines were planted in 1994. Aeroplan Servaj (little aeroplane) is the affectionate nickname that Domenico Clerico's father gave his young, free-spirited son. Exciting bouquet of wild cherry, candied orange peel, ploughed earth and rusty nails. There is a subtle sweetness in the primary fruit, but the wine is mainly defined by its very refined, rich and savoury side. As it progresses into an impressive finish, it offers impeccable balance and straightforwardness. SUPERIORE.DE

Superb - the Cerretalto 2012, a plant from a historical top location in the west of Montalcino. In the bouquet, spicy accents and aromas of soft sour cherries and blackberries give the scent. The impeccable taste impresses with its dynamic and weighty character, the dense tannin with good supporting effect, the respectable acidity and a first class finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Ornato is a great wine every year. With its wild herbs, minerals and ferrous notes, it captures the true character of Serralunga. Its bouquet shows small berry fruits and cassis, framed by gravel, forest floor, blue flowers and candied orange peel. The wine also has a dusty, mineral note and is very intense both on the nose and on the palate. Ornato starts with finely integrated tannins and an acidity that sustains all these fruit flavours. A wine that is consistently vertical, straightforward and frontal. SUPERIORE.DE

The 2020 Barbaresco Bernadot comes from one of the coolest and highest cru sites in the municipality of Treiso, whose sandy, chalky soils and exposed south-east exposure give the Nebbiolo particular precision and aromatic clarity. The year was characterised by a warm spring, followed by a stable summer with cool nights, which ensured slow, even ripening and preserved the freshness of the wine.

Vigna Loreto from the sun-drenched single vineyard of the same name right next to the winery is only vinified in the best vintages and delivers an even more intense interpretation of the Sangiovese grape every year. If you are looking for a soft and contemporary expression of Sangiovese, this is the wine for you. It offers a deep richness and texture infused with black fruits, spice and tobacco. This wine goes a step beyond the normal boundaries of Brunello in terms of richness and extraction. For all its undoubtedly beguiling opulence, it is nevertheless a straightforward and altogether superb wine that will gain in finesse and elegance with age. SUPERIORE.DE

Of all his wines, the flagship Tenuta di Trinoro offers the deepest insight into Andrea Franchetti's viticulture. Andrea changes the proprietary blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot from limestone and clay soils every year depending on the quality and quantity of the harvest. The grapes are always the best of the vintage. Franchetti's own style is recognisable in each of his wines and with each vintage. The 2020 vintage was the first to be given an additional year of bottle ageing before being released for sale.

This coveted Riserva is only vinified in top vintages and comes from the highest vineyards of the winery. On the nose, the essence of dark cherries, blackberries, flowers, violets, liquorice and spices, which are then carried away on the palate by firm, structured tannins. The Brunello Riserva 2016 impresses with its remarkable fruit and a big, explosive finish. It presents itself fresh and surprisingly lively, yet very focused and balanced. A great wine that is already a real joy to drink. SUPERIORE.DE