James Suckling

Collepiano (gentle hills) is what Marco Caprai calls the vineyards where his vision took shape at the end of the 1980s: to restore the Sagrantino, this ancient Umbrian vine with the highest tannin content in the wine world, to its lost greatness. Not as a sweet passito behind monastery walls, but as a dry red wine of international calibre. What followed was a revolution: collaboration with the University of Milan, clone selection, high-density plantings – and, in 1996, the legendary "25 Anni", the Sagrantino that Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones chose for their wedding. Collepiano comes from pure Sagrantino from the Val di Maggio vineyards. After the harvest, the must underwent temperature-controlled fermentation, followed by gentle extraction over ten to fourteen days. The cuvée matured for twenty-two months in French barriques and a further six months in the bottle – time that gave this tannin-rich wine structure and soul.

Sauvignon Sanct Valentin is probably the best-known white wine from the St. Michael-Eppan winery. It has been vinified from carefully selected single vineyards at the foot of the Mendelstock since 1989. Yellow-green in colour, dense bouquet of yellow fruit, gooseberry, elderflower and ripe redcurrant, smooth on the palate with elegant, floral fullness and crisp acidity. A great and very savoury top wine and probably the most award-winning white from the internationally highly respected winegrowers' cooperative. SUPERIORE.DE

Pinot Grigio Unterebner is an exceptional wine: golden yellow in colour, elegant aromas of blossom honey, lavender and tropical fruit. Delicate buttery notes, very balanced and charismatic, long and powerful on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Bright ruby red colour. Warm, balsamic bouquet of black cherry, some plum and blackcurrant syrup, then firm, complex and spicy on the palate, the fruit beautifully present and with a wonderfully long finish with notes of leather and sweet tobacco. The well-structured tannins perfectly round off the overall picture of a serious red with personality and character. The 20/24-month ageing in French oak barrels (25-35 hl), followed by a further year in the bottle, enriches the aromatic complexity of the wine with a clear focus on balance and elegance. SUPERIORE.DE

Antonio Bragato, born in Germany but with an absolute Friulian identity, joined forces 20 years ago with Gianni Maccari, who was cellar master at Livio Felluga for many years and founded his own winery Ronco della Rocca at the beginning of the millennium. Maccari, who has a degree in agronomy and Oenologist, is considered one of the best-trained viticultural experts in Friuli. The profound knowledge of his own 12 hectares of vineyards as well as the leased plots and the radical precision in the execution of every operation characterise the clear style and the reliable quality of the wines that Antonio Bragato creates there together with him.

The vineyards for the 100% Pinot Noir Riserva are located in the Überetsch region between 350 and 450 metres above sea level and face south-west. The soil is a compact, dense moraine soil made up of sediments from the Ice Age, calcareous, loamy and rich in minerals. Bright ruby red in colour, with a bouquet of redcurrants, raspberries, strawberries and hints of sage. Taut and very polished on the palate, its spicy tannins flank its beautiful depth and very appealing length. SUPERIORE.DE

A wine born from a love story between two worlds: When Thomas Bär acquired the La Valletta estate in Panzano in 2011, he not only completed his family's legacy, but also created the basis for a unique cuvée that combines two exceptional terroirs in perfect harmony. Valletta is the liquid manifesto of this visionary decision: half Sangiovese from the galestro-rich terraces of Castellina and half Merlot from the stone-rich soils of Conca d'Oro. On the one hand, the centuries-old, UNESCO-protected dry stone walls of Gagliole, where the vines find an ecological balance between olive trees and roses. On the other, the sun-drenched heights of La Valletta at the upper edge of the Golden Valley, where the shell-shaped amphitheatre develops its famous microclimate.

In 1984, a silent act of rebellion against convention took place on a nameless podium in the hills between Gaiole and Radda. Marco Pallanti, the visionary Oenologist at Castello di Ama, dared to do the impossible: He planted Pinot Nero clones from Morey-Saint-Denis, the heart of Burgundy, in the chalky soils of Tuscany. What began as a bold experiment became a legend – il Chiuso, named after the secretive, mysterious place where Burgundy's noblest grape variety found its Tuscan soul. Five hundred metres above sea level, on intensely limestone soils reminiscent of the Grands Crus of the Côte d'Or, the descendants of those Burgundian pioneers thrive today. Clones 111, 114 and 115 from Morey-Saint-Denis have found a new identity in this exceptional terroir – tuscan in their warmth from the sun, Burgundian in their finesse. The cool microclimate of this altitude, tempered by the Chianti winds, preserves the elegance and acidity structure that help Pinot Nero achieve its purest expression.

There are wines that reinvent a region. Nero is one such wine – born from a vision of the Zecca brothers in the early 1980s, when they began experimenting with Cabernet Sauvignon at Tenuta Cantalupi near Salice Salentino. What initially seemed like a gamble turned out to be the most successful wine story in Apulia: the first Nero vintage in 1998 hit like a bomb and won the Tre Bicchieri of the Gambero Rosso for six consecutive years – an achievement that no other Apulian wine has ever equalled. The history of Conti Zecca dates back to 1580, when Francesco Antonio Zecca came from Naples to the fertile lands of Leverano, in the heart of Salento. For centuries, the Zeccas cultivated their vineyards with Negroamaro, Primitivo and Aglianico and became key figures in the European wine trade – relations between the Bourbon kingdom and France, England, Sweden and Denmark passed through their estate. In 1884, Pope Leo XIII awarded the family the title of Count in recognition of their services to the development of the territory. In 1935, Count Alcibiade Zecca founded the modern winery in Leverano and began to vinify his own wines. However, it was his heirs who took the decisive step of combining the indigenous Negroamaro with the international Cabernet Sauvignon.

Bright yellow-green in colour. Intense nose of orchard fruits, ripe peach, roasted nuts and some lemon mousse, rounded off with creamy vanilla. Very juicy on the palate, not too heavy, with salty elements and warm yellow fruit flavours. Chardonnay made by Lis Neris is always a complete pleasure and a lasting memory. Very elegant and with good ageing and maturation potential thanks to 11 months of ageing on the fine lees. SUPERIORE.DE

Poggio Lombrone is a selection of Sangiovese vines that are over fifty years old. The 2018 vintage is stunningly beautiful and absolutely classic with a bouquet that opens with crushed black cherries, cooling sweet herbal notes and dusty cedar. After some time in the glass, flavours of plums, cranberries and undergrowth unfold. Velvety and rich on the palate, harmonious, with ripe wild berries pouring over a core of savoury acids balanced by a hint of sour citrus. All framed by fine tannins that slowly rise towards the end. In the delightful final, rosy flowers, ferruginous mineral notes and savoury spices, great! SUPERIORE.DE

Good, full red colour. Captivating aromas and flavours of ripe red cherry, spicy herbs and blackcurrant jelly are interwoven with bright liquorice and blood orange nuances. An exceptional Rosso that combines richness and vibrancy in a remarkably harmonious way. Closes creamy yet refined. Wow, this is more than the little brother of Brunello di Montalcino! SUPERIORE.DE

Deep, bright ruby red colour. Stunning aromas of floral dark berries, flint and attractive aromatic spices. Then fresh and juicy, but with a creeping concentration of blue and black fruit flavours, lifted by a zesty minerality and lively, harmonious acidity. The spicy, long finish is reminiscent of cloves, black pepper and coriander. A great wine, and we know now at the latest: The Catania family has a real knack for Cerasuolo di Vittoria. SUPERIORE.DE

In the heart of the Colli Berici, where one of Italy's most mysterious wine landscapes stretches between Vicenza and Padua, Stefano Inama has been writing an extraordinary chapter in the European Carménère renaissance for three decades. What began in 1991 with a nameless sip from an unmarked glass – that legendary "love at first taste" –has developed into an obsessive passion that has made Inama the leading Carménère pioneer in Europe. Carminium, produced since 2015, is the younger sister of the iconic Oratorio di San Lorenzo and epitomises Inama's vision of a more accessible, yet complex expression of this almost forgotten Bordeaux variety. The history of this wine is inextricably linked to the Oratorio di San Lorenzo – the small 16th century chapel that sits enthroned in the middle of a twelve-hectare Carménère amphitheatre. Here, where monks once lived in unspoilt nature, the Carménère vines have reached a level of ripeness after fifteen years that allows Inama to vinify the neighbouring plots separately. The terroir is characterised by the red clay soils of the Colli Berici – iron-rich terra rossa on limestone subsoil, which gives the Carménère that unique balance between power and elegance that remains unattainable elsewhere.

The Viognier and Chardonnay vines grow on Caiarossa's most calcareous terroir. The grapes are fermented separately in oak barrels, matured on the lees and blended at the end, with little or no racking in order to produce the wine with as little oxygen contact as possible. The result is a precise and clean white wine that, with its beautiful volume, depth and smoothness with fragrant flavours of flowers and almonds, goes well with a delicate and fragrant pesto. SUPERIORE.DE

Brilliant golden yellow colour. Complex notes of light peach, fresh pineapple and poached apricot on the nose. Rich and creamy on the palate with accents of smoke and toasted almonds. The finish is long-lasting, mineral and herb-accentuated. This very focussed and complex white paints a beautiful portrait of the refined side of the Trebbiano di Lugana grape, which is becoming increasingly popular. SUPERIORE.DE

There are grape varieties that have to wait decades for a visionary to recognise their true potential. Trebbiano d'Abruzzo was one such forgotten variety until Gianni Masciarelli started a revolution in 1981 that changed the face of Abruzzo viticulture forever. He was the first producer in the region to introduce the Guyot training system and French barriques, driven by a philosophy he called "innovazione continua" – continuous innovation in the service of tradition. Today, the vineyards surrounding the historic Castello di Semivicoli combine the fruits of this vision with the poetry of a place that has itself experienced a rebirth. Here, between Gran Sasso and Majella at an altitude of 380 metres, two very special Trebbiano vineyards take root: one with vines over forty years old that still embody the original vigour of the variety, and a younger one that Gianni planted at the end of the 1990s using the modern Guyot system – a symbiosis of grown wisdom and innovative spirit.

Pure Sangiovese from western Tuscany is not comparable with the interpretations from Montalcino or Chianti Classico due to its cultivation near the coast, but this somewhat different facet is in no way inferior to the aforementioned. Saturated, light ruby red colour. Intense and complex bouquet of cherries, lilac and broom, densely woven on the palate with black cherries, spices and grilled herbs, the whole framed by a terrificfreshness and lightness. A supple and elegant wine whose well-balanced acid wire not only provides the necessary structure, but also the framework for a wonderful further ageing phase. SUPERIORE.DE

In the rolling hills of Castelnuovo Calcea lies the Montemareto vineyard, a privileged parcel in the heart of the Nice DOCG zone, where Michele Chiarlo has relied on old, low-yielding Barbera vines for decades. The 2021 vintage benefited from a balanced vegetation cycle: a mild spring, warm, dry summer months and cool September nights resulted in perfectly ripe, concentrated berries. A deep ruby red colour with violet hues shines in the glass. The bouquet opens with juicy black cherry, ripe plums and dark berries, underpinned by violets, liquorice and fine roasted aromas. On the palate, the Barbera is powerful and supple at the same time, with rich fruit, present but well-integrated acidity and a fine-grained tannin that lends structure. The long, harmonious finish carries notes of sweet tobacco, herbs and a subtle almond flavour. A Barbera wine of remarkable depth and balance – full of character, storable and a worthy ambassador of the Nice terroir. SUPERIORE.DE

High up on the southern slopes of Mount Etna, where the Contrada Manzuedda in Biancavilla rises 900 metres into the sky, lies an extraordinary vineyard, as old as the dreams that gave birth to it. Here, between the eternal snow of the peaks and the flames of the volcano, where the first Carricante vines sank their roots into the volcanic earth in 1950, A' Puddara, "the hen", is born. This is what the Sicilians call the Pleiades in dialect, the seven sisters in the firmament that shine from the sea above the volcanic peak in summer. Silvia Maestrelli, the visionary pioneer of Fessina who sadly died far too early, dedicated the starry sky of her Sicilian nights to this wine, a fitting tribute to this island of dreams and fire.

Stylistically balanced, very finesse-rich Chianti Classico Gran Selezione from a small single vineyard (vineyard no. 7) in the Castelnuovo-Berardenga area, where the temperatures are always somewhat higher than in the rest of Chianti Classico. Dark, bright ruby colour. Elegant bouquet of pure Sangiovese of red berries with a very delicate hint of tobacco. Salty on the palate, shows a lot of pressure, very clear, compact fruit, builds up racy with tightly woven tannins; very intense and long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Lagrein and Gries belong together like Nebbiolo and Barolo. The Bolzano district of Gries is the ancestral home of this indigenous South Tyrolean grape variety – first mentioned in writing in 1379, and since then hardly anywhere else as convincing as here. Rudi Kofler puts it in a nutshell: "The alluvial soils of Gries are ideal for Lagrein. Because the Gries terroir is unlike anything else in Terlan. No steep slopes, no porphyry rock – but flat, post-glacial alluvial soil in the sunny Bolzano valley basin, where the Adige, Eisack and Talfer rivers meet and summer temperatures of up to 40 degrees are not uncommon. Loamy-sandy soils, lime-free, brooding. A terroir that gives Lagrein warmth and ripeness without taking away its tension. Hand-picked, destemming, slow maceration in steel, malolactic fermentation – then 12 months of ageing: half in large wooden barrels and half in barriques, one third of which is new. Precision meets depth.

Stoan has a spicy and floral aroma of ginger, crushed apples, savoury herbs and wet slate. It feels soothingly silky yet upbeat, focusing on ripe orchard fruits, along with a subtle hint of candied citrus for contrast. The palate remains crisp and clean with nuances of grapefruit and lime that linger. Firm pressure on the final, savoury. SUPERIORE.DE