James Suckling

Livio Felluga's new cru wines are the result of massalselection. For this purpose, selected vines are reproduced in particularly favourable locations in order to renew vineyards with particularly high-quality vines and to further improve the quality of individual varietal wines.

Mason. This is what Manincor calls the Mazzon vineyard to avoid confusion with the larger vineyard of the same name above Neumarkt. Four hectares of Pinot Nero are rooted here on a south-facing high plateau between 400 and 450 metres above sea level, spoilt by the sun and constantly exposed to the wind. This breeze is crucial: the narrow-berried Pinot grapes tend to store moisture between the berries – without air circulation, there is a risk of rot. The soil is sandy loam, interspersed with a variety of rocks: dolomite, porphyry, gneiss and granite, from particles the size of a grain of rice to stones the size of a fist. Each parcel is vinified separately. Mash fermentation takes place spontaneously in open wooden vats with wild yeasts. Maceration lasts two weeks and the cap is gently punched down once a day. The 16-month maturation in barriques (20% new wood) on the fine lees refines the flavours and structure without overpowering the fruit.

This smooth and exceptionally polished Valtellina Superiore comes from Sassella, one of the most famous villages in the Valtellina appellation on the north bank of the River Adda. Bright ruby red in colour. Camphor, wild roses, wild berries and hints of graphite and vanilla are the main characters in this fragrant red wine. Straightforward and elegantly structured, it reveals red cherry, pomegranate and liquorice on the palate, accompanied by present but fine tannins. The lively acidity provides the necessary drive, including further ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Montalcino is a hill. To be more precise: a single large cone of limestone, marl, slate and sand that rises above the Val d'Orcia – exposed to the north, south-east and south-west, characterised by three completely different climates. Most of the producers in the appellation have access to one of these slopes. Val di Suga has all three. Vigna del Lago in the north-west, Poggio al Granchio in the south-east, Vigna Spuntali in the south-west. Three soils, three microclimates, three characters – and a single winery that unites them all under one roof. The basic Brunello is the result of this unique position: a cuvée from all three sites that does not aim for simplification, but for synthesis. Fermentation takes eight to twelve days at a controlled temperature, with maceration lasting a further two to three weeks. Maturation in traditional 50-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels for 24 months, followed by six months in concrete and then the bottle. The 2021 vintage brought a late frost in April – the harvest was reduced, the quality concentrated. A dry summer without extreme heat, a long, even autumn. The Consorzio and a jury of eight Masters of Wine agreed on three words to characterise the vintage: fragrant, precise, vertical.

When Luciano and Luca Sandrone first set eyes on the concave hill of Valmaggiore in the 1990s, it was love at first sight. It wasn't just history that moved them – in the 19th century, the Nebbiolo grapes from this vineyard dictated the price for the entire area – but above all the unique combination of sandy soils and the microclimate of this natural amphitheatre. In Vezza d'Alba, on the left bank of the Tanaro in the Roero, lies this south-facing single vineyard with extremely steep slopes, where soft sandy soils give the Nebbiolo the finesse and elegance for which the Roero region is famous.

Just like the famous I Sistri, the “Collezione Privata” is a single-varietal Chardonnay. Since the early 1980s, the former LitersGiovanni Mazzocolin had sourced some of his Chardonnay vines from Burgundy, and so a micro-site was cultivated here right up until the 2000s; the grapes from this site are used to produce the gently vinified “I Sistri Collezione Privata” is made. A bright, intense straw-yellow colour with golden highlights. A delicately reductive nose of spices, peach and exotic fruits, with subtle hints of vanilla. Creamy and full-bodied on the palate; the perfectly balanced acidity lends it structure, whilst the fresh juice, combined with a mineral-salty note, carries this complex white wine into an exciting and spicy finish of quince and orange. The clearly recognisable Burgundian style of this great Chardonnay will continue to develop with further bottle ageing, not least due to the subtle barrique ageing. Very attractive at an even more attractive price! SUPERIORE.DE

The Conca d'Oro – the golden basin. This is what the winegrowers of Panzano call the natural depression in the terrain south of Greve, where the sun arrives earlier and stays longer than elsewhere in Chianti Classico. The slope, the Galestro-Alberese soil, the air circulation between the hills: everything comes together to create a microclimate that gives the Sangiovese the depth and fruit ripeness that is exceptional elsewhere, year after year. Gagliole lies at the centre of it all – a small, carefully managed winery that has been showing what Panzano can achieve in this price range since the Riserva première in the 2018 vintage. 100% Sangiovese from vines over twenty years old, organically farmed, hand-picked, fermented in steel. What follows is a well thought-out ageing process: ten months in small used oak barrels, then five months in cement tanks – a combination that gives the wine structure without over-moulding it. Only 11,000 bottles.

"Querciabella" – beautiful oak. The name says it all for a winery that has been one of the style-defining houses of Chianti Classico since 1974. Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni was one of the first to switch to organic farming here – back in 1988, when the word "organic" still raised eyebrows in the winegrowing world. Querciabella has been working biodynamically since 2000 and today cultivates the largest biodynamically certified vineyard area in Italy. The fact that Daniele Cernilli (Dr Wine) named the estate "Cantina dell'Anno" in 2024 came as no surprise to anyone who knows these wines. The Riserva combines Sangiovese from three of the best sites in Chianti Classico: Greve brings vibrancy and bright fruit, Radda taut tannins and dark berry notes, Gaiole riper fruit and distinctive limestone minerality. The altitude of between 350 and 550 metres ensures cool nights and slow ripening. Each parcel is vinified and matured individually in the cellar – micro-vinification, which preserves the terroir of each vineyard and only combines it into a multi-layered whole in the final blend. 16 months in French barriques and tonneaux lend structure without dominance.

Like a precious legacy, this wine rests in the history of the patrician Serristori family, who acquired the land of Donoratico in 1512 and built the magnificent villa in 1660. Today, from the shadow of these historic walls springs a wine that bears the soul of the Tuscan Maremma – where the salty whisper of the Tyrrhenian Sea meets the warm hills of Bolgheri. In the vineyards of Argentiera, the DOC Bolgheri estate closest to the coast and at the same time the highest, the grapes ripen between the Mediterranean scrub and the endless blue of the archipelago. Here, on just twelve hectares of the Villa Donoratico site, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot take root in sandy and rocky soils, while the subsoil is criss-crossed by marine flysch rock, a geological memory of seas long past.

A very special wine made from overripe and strictly selected Aglianico grapes that thrive in Mastroberardino's south-facing vineyards. The Taurasi is aged for two years in oak barrels and one year in the bottle. A wine with a fascinating personality, power and extremely high Storage potential.

The name says it all: Marne means marl soil, on which the vines for this marvellous Amarone grow. They are over 20 years old and lie in an ideal 180° direction, from south-west to south-east. Rich, shiny ruby red colour, compact bouquet with intense aromas of plum, black cherry, green tea and tobacco, with a fine chocolate note in the background. The body, coated in fine berry fruit, develops a dynamic flavour experience on the palate with a sweet fruit melt, firm tannins and a long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

1172 – the year in which Volpaia is first mentioned in documents. A small, fortified borgo on a hill north of Radda in Chianti, built as a border fortress between Florence and Siena. Today it is a jewel of peace and beauty and one of the most historic wine villages in Tuscany. Here, where soldiers once stood guard, the Stianti-Mascheroni families now press their grapes within the medieval walls. The bottles mature in the vaults of old churches and almost every cellar contains a tank of organic wine. An entire village dedicated to viticulture. So complete that it becomes poetic again. The Riserva is made from 100% Sangiovese from vineyards between 400 and 600 metres above sea level. One of the highest wineries in the region. Up here, where the air is thin and the nights are cool, Sangiovese develops the elegance and minerality that makes Volpaia so distinctive. Sandstone, clay and sandy-loamy soils with a high proportion of skeleton. Manual harvest in the second half of September, temperature-controlled vinification, then 24 months in French and Slovenian oak barrels.

Eneo is supposed to be the "Grand Vin" of Montepesolo, the Italian answer to the globalisation of wines. And Eneo can do that. The blend of indigenous grape varieties, with Sangiovese and Montepulciano clearly in the foreground, unmistakably expresses its terroir and is understood worldwide in the process. SUPERIORE.DE

Fusonero is the powerful, broodinginterpretation of Taurasi – made purely from Aglianico from high-altitude vineyards in Irpinia, where volcanic soils and cool nights lend the grapes complexity and structure. 2016 produced balanced, ripe berries with firm acidity and rich phenolics – ideal conditions for a long-lasting Taurasi. Almost impenetrable ruby colour with a purple core in the glass. A rich composition of black cherries, blackberries, dried plums and liquorice on the nose, underpinned by cedar wood, tobacco, dark chocolate and a fine balsamic note. Powerful yet supple on the palate, with present, ripe tannins that are perfectly balanced by juicy fruit and fresh acidity. The mineral vein carries the wine through to a long, spicy final with hints of smoke and herbs. Our verdict: A Taurasi of aristocratic depth that reveals the great potential of the grape variety in an outstanding vintage – structured, long-lasting and with a presence that will continue to unfold for many years to come. SUPERIORE.DE

In the gentle hills above Trento, where the Dolomites majestically watch over the Adige Valley, lies a vineyard called Fontanasanta, the "Holy Spring". Here, at an altitude of 400 metres and on calcareous clay soils, Elisabetta Foradori preserves one of Trentino's most precious treasures: the Nosiola, an ancient indigenous grape variety that was once at the heart of the region's wine culture but is now threatened with extinction. Only three hectares are dedicated to this rare variety. Nosiola, whose name is derived from the dialect word "nosela" for hazelnut, requires patience and sensitivity. In wet Alpine years, it can be capricious, but under Elisabetta's biodynamic guidance, it unfolds its full aromatic complexity. The vinification process follows the revolutionary Foradori philosophy: after hand-picking, the de-stemmed berries are placed in Spanish tinajas, where they ferment on the skins for eight months – a process that gives the Nosiola its characteristic golden yellow colour and structural depth. A short maturation in used acacia barrels rounds off the profile.

Massolino's Barbaresco is the quintessence of finely balanced terroir: Nebbiolo grapes from the Starderi, Albesani and Serraboella cru sites mature together to create a complex yet transparent wine. The 2022 vintage provided a balanced climate – warm days and cool nights – which harmoniously blends freshness, finesse and aromatic richness. The colour in the glass is a medium garnet red with bright reflections. The nose exudes a velvety elegance of red fruits, violets, delicate lavender, spicy notes, crushed rock and a hint of orange peel – pure, lively fragrance with contoured clarity. A medium body full of energy unfolds on the palate: silky tannins, lively acidity and polished, mineral tension are the carriers of a fruit-emphasised depth. The finish lingers for a long time – intensely floral, spicy and with vibrant freshness. SUPERIORE.DE

This unfiltered rosato, matured in Liters amphorae, is the result of the strictest selection of Syrah grapes from the winery. The spontaneously fermented and Demeter-certified result is just 4,000 bottles, which are sold in selected specialist shops and restaurants. A beguiling, intense bouquet of pink grapefruit, raspberry and cranberry. Taut, juicy and lively on the palate - a perfect harmony of expression, freshness and body. SUPERIORE.DE

Eneo is supposed to be the "Grand Vin" of Montepeloso, the Italian answer to the globalisation of wines. And Eneo can do it. The blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon unmistakably expresses its terroir and is recognised worldwide. Aromas of blackcurrant and cherry with fresh flowers and orange peel are followed by a medium to full body with ultra-fine tannins that are wonderfully integrated into the wine and leave a bright, concentrated impression. SUPERIORE.DE

Gewürztraminer is named after Tramin. This is not a marketing story – this is etymology. The name of the world's most famous aromatic grape variety bears the village itself, where Hofstätter has been based since 1907. And the Kolbenhof plot is located above Tramin, in the hamlet of Söll, on an eastern slope between 360 and 420 metres above sea level – one of the most historic estates in the entire village. This is where the Bolzano quartz porphyry slab meets the limestone of the Mendelzug. A geological interface that does not exist in this form anywhere else in the South Tyrolean wine-growing region. The soils with a high clay content absorb the warmth of the morning sun – the Kolbenhof is exposed to the east, protected from the midday heat – and slowly release it again. Cool, structured, elegant. This is the opposite of a sweetish mass-produced spiced Traminer: dryness with character.

Düsseldorf, ProWein, 1997: Two men meet between the trade fair stands and tasting zones: Stefano Inama, who has given Garganega white wines a new dignity in Soave, and Sabatino Di Properzio, who is in the process of leading Fattoria La Valentina out of the shadow of Abruzzese mass production. What begins as an industry skirmish turns into a friendship – and an idea that Inama formulates with a joke: "Montepulciano is the Barolo of the south. We should do something together." Sabatino's answer, without hesitation: "Facciamo." Three years later, the two buy a vineyard in San Valentino in Abruzzo Citeriore at a forced sale that nobody wants. 4.2 hectares at an altitude of 350 metres, completely south-facing, at the foot of the Majella National Park – and planted with an ancient Montepulciano clone that was abandoned long ago due to its low yields. The grapes form two-lobed panicles reminiscent of the silhouette of the African continent: the "Clone Africa". Small-berried, thick-skinned, with a concentration that more modern clones cannot match. The vines, now over fifty years old, are rooted in loamy mid-mountain soil under the traditional Abruzzese pergola – and yield just 45 quintals per hectare.

Millesimato Metodo Classico Brut 2018 - carefully matured using the Metodo Classico method - is juicy, floral and creamy, with a lovely acidity. Flavours of peach and stone fruit take centre stage, with delicate mineral tones and a lovely hint of baked bread. Silky and delicate, this is the stuff of dreams. SUPERIORE.DE

Less than 1,000 bottles of this Gewürztraminer Riserva are produced each year. The grapes are harvested at the end of December - just when they are finely coated with the noble fungus Botrytis cinerea. Golden, almost amber-coloured sheen, quince, dried fruit and rose petals on the nose. Concentrated on the palate, delicate honey flavour, sweet and long. SUPERIORE.DE