Doctor Wine

When Giovanni Massolino founded his winery in Serralunga d'Alba in 1896, he was the first to bring electric light to the village. A pioneer. His grandson Giuseppe, co-founder of the legendary Barolo consortium, continued this tradition – and then came the third generation, Giovanni, Camilla and Renato: they wrote a new chapter in 1985 by bottling Margheria separately for the first time. Today, the brothers Franco and Roberto continue the legacy. Both Oenologistwho understand that great wines are not made, but born. Margheria is located on the western edge of Serralunga's famous ridge, just a stone's throw away from the mythical Vigna Rionda – and yet it is its exact opposite. Where Vigna Rionda promises strength and eternity with its calcareous marl, the Margheria site at 280 metres above sea level plays with a higher admixture of sand in the limestone soil. The result: elegance meets structure, floral notes meet mineral depth. Serralunga shows its accessible side here without sacrificing its typical longevity.

Just 2,100 bottles of this 1.5 ha single vineyard Cabernet Franc "Campo di Magnacosta" (a former riverbed with mainly clay, gravel and crushed stone soil) reach the specialised trade and the menus of the best restaurants worldwide. The vines were planted in the mid-1990s and come from Pomerol. In terms of aromatic intensity, Magnacosta is probably the most sensually elegant representative of the house's three great site cabernets. It has great straightness, but somewhat less power and intensity. It subtly combines black fruit aromas with spicy notes, tar and antique leather. It is already silky and elegant and will certainly gain in finesse over the years. SUPERIORE.DE

Chiara's Barolo from the Mosconi single vineyard of the same name is powerful, muscular and full of opulence. Rich, bright ruby red colour. Rich aromas of eucalyptus, wild rosemary, plum and black cherry. Deep and powerful on the palate with beautiful spicy accents, dense tannins and a very juicy structure. For us, this Barolo belongs in the top class of the appellation, it always carries its great weight with maximum elegance and is highly authentic, completely in the style of Chiara Boschis, who has once again delivered something really great here. Please leave it in the cellar for a few more years! SUPERIORE.DE

There are houses that ask themselves a single question. Not: What else can we do? But rather: How well can we do one thing? Galardi, at the foot of the extinct Roccamonfina volcano in northern Campania, has been producing exactly one wine since 1994. Just one. Year after year. The location is exceptional: south-west exposure at 500 metres, volcanic soil of silt, clay and rock, rich in mineral salts from two eras of volcanic activity – leucite lava and basalt, superimposed and weathered over hundreds of thousands of years. Chestnut woods, olive groves, underground springs that never dry up, even in dry years. The sea breezes from the Gulf of Gaeta provide natural climate control. 80% Aglianico, 20% Piedirosso – the legitimate natives of this region. Fermentation with skin contact for 20 days, pumping over twice daily, malolactic fermentation in steel, twelve months ageing in French barriques (40% new, 60% second and third passage), then a further twelve months in bottle.

In the heart of the Valdarno Superiore, where the ancient Via dei Setteponti inspired Leonardo da Vinci's immortal landscape studies, lies the Tenuta Sette Ponti – named after the seven bridges that have connected Arezzo and Florence since Etruscan times. Here, on 300 hectares between history and modernity, Dr Antonio Moretti Cuseri realised a visionary idea in 1999: to create a Tuscan Bordeaux style that combines international elegance with the soul of Tuscany. Oreno – named after the small river that crosses the tenuta in the clay-rich zone where the Merlot vines take deepest root – was born out of a passion for Bordeaux finesse. Moretti Cuseri, fascinated by his travels to Bordeaux, had existing vineyards grafted with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. While Merlot thrives in the clay soils, Cabernet vines find their home in gravelled terraces that offer perfect drainage and natural temperature regulation. The Petit Verdot completes the cuvée with spicy notes and intense flavours.

There are pyramids in the Vigna Iannazzo. Not the Egyptian ones – small, hand-built towers made of black lava, which farmers stacked out of the fields for centuries when clearing the land for farming. Each stone was carried, each tower layered, without mortar, using the ancient dry stone walling technique. The Piramidi dell'Etna – as they are called – are today one of the silent, unmistakable landmarks of the Cottanera vineyards. And they stand right here: in the Vigna Iannazzo, a named single vineyard within the Contrada Feudo di Mezzo, one of the recognised MGAs of Castiglione di Sicilia.

The Rosso di Montalcino comes from slightly younger Brunello vines and is matured for 12 months in large oak barrels. It undoubtedly bears the signature of the top winery Biondi Santi: delicately sweet, open flavours of red berries, flowers and cloves. Like all of the winery's other wines, the Rosso is classic and firm in style, with a bombastic structure and a brilliant, long finish. True to the house, it also has a long ageing and maturation potential and can compete with some of the Brunello wines of the appellation today and in the future. SUPERIORE.DE

The historic Cerretta cru vineyard is located just north of the village of Serralunga d'Alba and is considered one of the most complex parcels in the appellation. The slopes are exposed to the south-west and west, giving the vines both long hours of sunshine and cooling evening breezes. The soils consist of a characteristic mixture of calcareous marl, clay and fine veins of sand – a constellation that gives the Nebbiolo here its unmistakable balance of power, elegance and aromatic depth. The 2021 vintage brought perfect conditions with cool nights, clear autumn days and a harmonious ripening curve. The grapes were harvest exclusively by hand, followed by traditional maceration and around 32 months of ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels, which allow the character of the vineyard to shine through clearly.

Terre Alte is a masterpiece of Friulian white wine-making – a wine that has set the standard since its first vintage in 1981. The blend of Friulano, Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon from the finest vineyards around Rosazzo comes together here to form a vinological ideal of the Collio. The balance, but also the depth of its character and its personality, are almost unreal – a beguiling, truly great Italian white wine that impresses even in its youth, but will only reveal its inner depth over the years.

Pacentis Vecchie Vigne is still one of the most modern wines of the sun-drenched appellation in southern Tuscany. Its fruit comes from old vines that are between 35 and 50 years old. You can taste the richness and smoothness of its dark fruit and the lush blackberry. However, the wine also offers hints of exotic spices, spicy tobacco and even a hint of talcum powder or buttered popcorn that comes from the oak (it is aged for 24 months in French barriques). An unmistakably creamy and rich mouthfeel in the drink through to the long final. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Cerretta is a dense, concentrated and energetic expression of Nebbiolo. Red and purple fruit flavours of cassis, dried cranberries and cherries set beautiful accents, but there is also plenty of room for the equally beautiful aromas of liquorice, campfire ash and candied orange peel that play such a deft supporting role. On the palate, it is a brilliant, polished wine with enough tannin to allow it to mature in the cellar for another 10 or 20 years. SUPERIORE.DE

Brigaldara's Amarone Riserva is a wine born from the desire to interpret Valpolicella in its most original form. The strictly selected grapes that form its basis are chosen from the best vineyards in order to maximise the potential of the estate's own vineyards in Valpolicella.

The Serra site is located in the heart of Serralunga d'Alba, in the direct neighbourhood of some of the most renowned cru parcels in the municipality. At an altitude of around 360 metres and with a predominantly south-westerly exposure, the vines benefit from optimal sunshine in the afternoon, while the cool downdraughts at night ensure delayed, even ripening. The subsoil of calcareous marl with sandy inclusions gives the wines from the Serra vineyard their fine, almost silky texture. The 2020 vintage showed its balanced side: a moderate summer, a long growing season and a stable autumn ensured flawless grapes with perfect phenolic ripeness. After careful manual harvesting and selection, the grapes were gently pressed and fermented in concrete for a good three weeks. The wine then matured for two years in large oak barrels to preserve its elegance and terroir fidelity.

Chianti Classico Riserva Castello di Volpaia is a dark, powerful wine. Black cherry, smoke, liquorice, incense, mocha, menthol, lavender and leather give this virile, brooding Riserva plenty of character. The palate is very aromatic with sweet red cherries, cedar wood and nuances of blood orange, yet very powerful and multi-layered with terrific depth and structure. A dream for Sangiovese lovers. SUPERIORE.DE

Rose petals, spices and red-coloured fruit float in the glass, supported by fine, racy tannins. On the palate, the typical, medium-bodied characteristics of Bricco delle Viole are evident, while the contours are soft and the wine's personality demands the next sip. Vajra fans should give it a few more years to mature, despite its current accessibility. SUPERIORE.DE

Talentis Riserva is a barrel selection that is aged for 36 months in a combination of 25 and 20 hectolitre oak barrels and a small amount in tonneaux. Pian di Conte 2019 is a classic, stately wine with lots of dark fruits, dried blackberries, spices, tobacco and mentholated herbs. The palate is polished and elegant with sweet plums, cherries and blackberries on the attack. These sweet fruit nuances are followed by spicy cedar wood and campfire flavours, as well as fine tannins and an almost endless depth. SUPERIORE.DE

Ai Suma is Braida's epitome of exceptional Barbera – ai Suma, which means "We did it" in the Piedmontese dialect, was first created in 1989 by a lucky coincidence: a late harvest that gave the wine enormous maturity and complexity. Since then, Braida's top Barbera has only been vinified in outstanding years, from hand-picked grapes from old vines in sun-drenched vineyards around Rocchetta Tanaro. The 2021 vintage benefited from a harmonious vegetation cycle: a mild spring, warm but balanced summer months and a dry, sunny harvestthat lasted well into October. These conditions allowed for a late harvest with perfectly ripe berries that characterise the wine. Careful fermentation is followed by the classic ageing period of around 15 months in French barriques, followed by a longer period of rest in the bottle, which brings structure and flavour into full harmony.

Serra is an often misunderstood location. Small, little known, sometimes underestimated by connoisseurs – because it has neither the full southern sun of a Cerretta nor the dramatic hillside location of a Vigna Rionda. Anyone who hears the MGA Serra in Serralunga for the first time thinks: quite nice. Anyone drinking the wine for the first time will think: wait a minute. The Rosso family's plot is located around one kilometre south of the village centre, in the upper municipal area of Serralunga, with an eastern to south-eastern exposure. No midday light to overwhelm the grapes – instead, cool mornings, slow ripening, a precision in the tannin that only this orientation can produce. Davide Rosso describes it himself: The eastern exposure intensifies the fresh, austere character of these wines. And rightly so. Those who reduce Barolo to power and flavour will have no use for Serra. Those who reduce Barolo to origin and attitude will never forget it.

Massimo Piccin is living the dream of giving new expression to Bordeaux growths from Bolgheri and producing wines that combine power, elegance and longevity. And so the Sapaio offers its full, vital and tannin-rich style magnificently and allows plenty of time for the finish. Once again, some of the grapes come from Bibbona, i.e. outside the Bolgheri DOC, so that this great wine can only bear the addition Toscana IGT.

Here it is, the impressive first Gran Selezione from Riecine, showing more grace than muscle and delivering a Riecine-typical and very precise Burgundian interpretation of the Sangiovese grape.

Sauvignon Bianco Rachtl comes from a small micro-location of just 0.4 hectares. It gets its fine flint and graphite nose from the porphyry soils near Unteraicha in the municipality of Völs. Very subtle on the palate with fine saline acidity, fresh fruit and a long-lasting finish. If you can call one of the 2,000 bottles of this vintage your own, you can count yourself lucky! SUPERIORE.DE

Gualto 2016 not only reflects the extremely aristocratic exceptional vintage, but is also one of the best Riservas from 2016. On the nose, very clear and straightforward after cherry, herbs and crushed rock. Full and supple on the palate, its texture is elegant and fine, the tannins only come to the fore in the second step and are excellently balanced. This wine will only reveal its true greatness in a few years, but it already offers an extremely tasty and engaging character. For a Riserva, it has a surprising amount of fruit and an elegance that makes it one of the most charming representatives of its kind. This wine (no more than 4,000 bottles were bottled) should not be missing in any well-stocked wine cellar! SUPERIORE.DE

Some wines bear the name of their creator and thus a silent commitment. Gualto is Gualtiero Ghezzi's personal signature: a strict selection of the best exposed Sangiovese Grosso plots near the Castello, at an altitude of over 300 metres, from sandy limestone marl soils with fossil inclusions. Matured for 36 months in oak barrels and a further two years in the bottle – the fact that this Riserva is being released while 2020s are already on the shelves elsewhere is not an oversight, but an attitude. 2019 was the year that rewarded such patience. Spring rains created the water reserves for a warm but never excessive summer. A radiant September with large day-night fluctuations brought full phenolic ripeness – slowly and without haste. International critics are celebrating the 2019 Brunello vintage as one of the most important since 2010 and 2016.

The name was no coincidence. "Habemus" – we have it. The phrase that falls from the balcony of St Peter's Basilica when the cardinals have reached an agreement. Emanuele Pangrazi chose it deliberately: Viterbo, the capital of Tuscia, was itself a papal residence in the 13th century when Rome was too dangerous – when Rome was too dangerous. The same city, the same history, only the wine was different back then. Pangrazi set out to change that in 2006. The vineyards are located at 300 to 400 metres in Blera, on heavy, stony clay soils with southern exposure. No artificial fertilisers, no chemicals – only spring water and plant-based products. All vines are trained as Alberello, the bushy single vine training of the Mediterranean region, with 11,000 plants per hectare. The yield remains at 25 quintals – two small, loose grapes per vine, with thick skins and little pulp. Concentration as a natural principle.