Bibenda

The cork oaks still grow on the hills of Gavorrano today – silent, gnarled, enduring. They gave this wine its name. "Le Sughere": the cork oaks. A tribute to the landscape that supports and characterises this estate, long before a Renzo Piano wine cellar was dug into the rock here. The wine itself is the second label of Rocca di Frassinello – and what Oenologist Alessandro Cellai could call the heart of the estate: not the grand gesture, not the introduction, but the substance. Sangioveto, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot – the same triad as in the entire estate, the same philosophy of the link between Tuscany and Bordeaux. But this is where the wood comes in for the first time. Twelve months in partly new barriques, then nine months in the bottle: patience as a method.

In the southernmost tip of the Bolgheri appellation, where the vines almost touch the sea and rows of pine trees stand guard over the landscape, lies Tenuta Le Colonne – the winery with the vineyards closest to the sea in the entire denomination. Under the leadership of Alejandro Bulgheroni, organically certified wines of impressive clarity have been produced here since 2016. Originating from vineyards at an altitude of 50 metres with a south-westerly exposure, the vines are rooted in sandy alluvial soils with skeleton-rich inclusions. Spontaneous fermentation in truncated cone-shaped cement tanks with indigenous yeasts for 13 days, followed by twelve months of ageing in large, untoasted barrels, gives this wine its characteristic elegance.

62 years after the cooperative was founded in 1962 – this explains the name of this Riserva, which surpasses the Sessantanni in terms of ageing time and quality. The grapes come from the oldest plots of the cooperative, bush vines in Alberello training on the characteristic red clay soils of Salento. The grapes are harvested by hand, followed by prolonged maceration to maximise extraction. Then aged for 18 months in small oak barrels – six months longer than the Sessantanni –followed by further ageing in the bottle before release.

This is a rather fresh and cheerful lightweight at a young age, which will develop into a highly complex and more than serious white wine over the years. In the still youthful, fresh bouquet, we already find a lot of minerality and fine yellow fruit flavours, then a texture and depth on the palate that comes to the fore at 2° higher drinking temperature and appropriate aeration. It will be even better in a few years - guaranteed! SUPERIORE.DE

The name Plenio (derived from the Latin plenus) stands for fullness and expression, and this is precisely what characterises every facet of this Riserva. The grapes come from higher-lying plots near Cupramontana, in the historic centre of the appellation. Calcareous clay soils, cool nights and selective hand-picking create the basis for a Verdicchio with depth and Storage potential. Fermentation is followed by partly reductive, partly oxidative ageing in stainless steel and large wood, followed by extended storage on fine lees and final maturation in the bottle.

Castello della Sala, located not far from Orvieto at an altitude of 500 metres, produces excellent wines without exception, as the inexpensive "entry-level wine" San Giovanni della Sala proves. The wine is produced in the vineyards of the ancient castle of Castello della Sala from the combination of the indigenous grape varieties Grechetto and Procanico with Pinot Bianco and Viognier and interprets the Orvieto Classico in a new style. Its freshness, richness and balance are remarkable, with notes of yellow flowers, green apple, sage and ginger. On the palate, an incredibly silky texture and juicy acidity guide this juicy white wine into a beautiful, mineral finish. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1991, Luca and Valeria Orsini gave up their work in Milan to produce wine in Tuscany. Their winery comprises 10 hectares of south-east facing vineyards in Panzano and the wines have been certified organic since 2000. This outstanding Annata opens discreetly on the nose with subtle scents of cherry blossom, heather and roses. On the palate, it is decidedly red-fruited with redcurrants and raspberries, embraced by finely structured, powdery and persistent tannins. It has a lovely energy and above all lets the true charm of Sangiovese shine through. A real high-flyer in terms of authenticity every year! SUPERIORE.DE

Gravello is the great red classic of the Librandi house – and has been a pioneering wine for the region since the 1980s. The cuvée of Gaglioppo and Cabernet Sauvignon is a symbol of modern Calabria: powerful, structured and of international calibre, without denying its origins. The 2022 vintage was characterised by a warm, dry summer with cool nights, resulting in ripe, healthy grapes with dense fruit and good freshness. The wine is aged for twelve months in French barriques, giving it depth and elegance.

"A quei tempi era sempre festa" – back then there was always a party. Thus begins Cesare Pavese's novel "La bella estate", written in 1940 and awarded the Premio Strega in 1950, a tale about those fleeting summers of youth when anything seems possible. It is no coincidence that Vite Colte named its Moscato Passito after this work: the Barolo cooperative has dedicated several of its wines to Piedmontese Liters– "La Luna e i Falò", also a Pavese title, adorns their award-winning Barbera d'Asti. It is a nod to their homeland, to the landscape of hills and mist that Pavese described so unmistakably.

SP68 Rosso is perhaps Arianna Occhipinti's most direct expression of soil, grape variety and philosophy. Frappato and Nero d'Avola come from organically cultivated plots on chalky and sandy soils at an altitude of 280 to 290 metres. Fermented with natural yeasts in concrete, matured for six months in cement tanks, bottled unfiltered – no intervention, no make-up, pure essence.

It was very courageous when Michele Satta vinified the first Vermentino in Bolgheri in 1984 – at a time when the appellation had only just been created and white wine still seemed unthinkable in an area dominated by red wine. Costa di Giulia, named after a vineyard at the foot of Castagneto Carducci, was created as a single-varietal treasure from Vermentino until Satta made a far-reaching decision in 1997: the addition of 40 per cent Sauvignon Blanc was to give the wine more character and a more extracted, sweeter, broader finesse.

Steep cliffs, gentle slopes of calcareous clay soil, the rough blue of the Adriatic Sea just above the vines ... welcome to the Conero, one of the most renowned terroirs in the Marche region! From the heart of this landscape comes Cùmaro, a passionately cultivated, richly structured Montepulciano that Umani Ronchi has been vinifying as a Riserva since the mid-1980s. In the glass, it presents a dark ruby colour with a purple hue. The bouquet is intense and multi-layered: ripe plum, blackcurrant and cassis intertwine with notes of black pepper, vanilla and fine tobacco – all in a powerful, spicy frame. The palate is characterised by dense concentration while remaining warm and enveloping. Smooth, integrated tannins carry the broodingfruit flavour, which glides into a long, elegant finish – with hints of chocolate and spicy dryness.

Delicate, elegant Nerello Mascalese with fine aromas of red fruits and raspberries, enveloped in a pleasant citrus freshness. As the wine progresses, it develops a smoky note associated with the strong lava rock component that characterises the volcanic soil of Etna. Lively, harmonious and full of flavour on the palate – a resolutely versatile wine that goes perfectly with a variety of fish dishes, shellfish and white meat. SUPERIORE.DE

Deep, rich ruby colour. Impressive nose of ripe berries, ripe cherries and delicate graphite nuances. Aromatic and extremely flavoursome on the palate, with a spicy, animating arc. Fine tannins. Well-balanced with a gentle structure that frames the palate until the lively finish. A true Tuscan insider tip with a great value. SUPERIORE.DE

Riserva does not simply mean more time in Gracciano. It means different soil. The Maramai and Podere Rovisci crus provide the grape material for this wine – and Rovisci is the core of the whole: heavy clay content, brooding, water-retaining, with a ripening dynamic that elicits the densest, most concentrated side of the Prugnolo Gentile. Vines, some of which have been planted since 1970. 300 to 350 metres, south to south-east exposure, 30 hectolitres per hectare – consistently limited yields. Only in the best vintages does the della Seta Ferrari Corbelli Greco family decide to bottle a Riserva. 2021 was such a year. Prugnolo Gentile 90%, Merlot 10%. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts, 20 to 25 days of maceration in steel. Then aged for 24 months: the first twelve in French tonneaux of 3.5 and 5 hectolitres, the second twelve in large Slavonian oak barrels. Subsequent maturation in the bottle for at least six months.

Michele Satta's Bolgheri Rosso is far more than just his bestseller – it is the authentic calling card of a non-conformist who was one of the first in Bolgheri to have the courage to marry international grape varieties with Tuscan Sangiovese. Satta took this revolutionary step back in 1982, two years before the Bolgheri DOC was founded, creating an archetype of the modern Bolgheri style. The speciality of this wine lies in its unconventional blend: 30% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon form the backbone, complemented by 20% Merlot and 10% each of Syrah and Pinot Noir – here lies Satta's stroke of genius – teroldego. This rare grape variety from Trentino gives the blend a unique freshness and mineral tension that clearly sets it apart from other Bolgheri wines.

Tasting the Riserva from Fattoria del Cerro takes you stylistically to those higher vineyard sites where fossil-rich soils full of pebbles and ancient shell remains lend the Prugnolo Gentile a special mineral depth. The crowning glory of the Montepulciano hierarchy is created from these favoured plots – a wine that requires time and patience to reveal its multi-layered nature. After careful selection, the wine undergoes 18 months of refinement, combining tradition and innovation: Eight months in French barriques and tonneaux, followed by a further twelve to sixteen months in large wooden barrels. This combination creates a character of remarkable elegance and the wood integrates seamlessly without overshadowing the varietal fruit. A final twelve months of maturation in the bottle completes the harmonious development.