Wines from Veneto

Lugana as a sparkling wine? The idea sounds unusual, but Sergio Zenato has been pursuing it since the winery was founded in the 1960s. He recognised early on that Trebbiano di Lugana, with its fine acidity and aromatic purity, was ideal for traditional bottle fermentation. Hand-picked in mid-September, gentle whole-cluster pressing, fermentation with natural yeasts at 16°C in stainless steel. This is followed by the decisive step: the second fermentation in the bottle according to the Metodo Classico – the same method used in Champagne. The Spumante sur lie matures for a full 24 months before remuage and dégorgement release the fine flavours.

St. John's Eve on 24 June is traditionally the day in Italy when the still unripe walnuts are harvested for Christmas. This time represents the ideal balsamic ripeness of the fruits, which are carefully selected, harvested by hand and then conscientiously prepared. This is followed by an infusion of cinnamon, lemon peel, cloves and sugar, followed by a further maceration period to extract the aromas from the botanicals. Only at the end of a further maturing does this fine nocino achieve the right balance from its various substances. SUPERIORE.DE

From one of the region's most famous winegrowers, this sparkling wine from a single vineyard shows the serious side of Valdobbiadene. A single vineyard from the year 2000, located directly in front of the winery and therefore close to the village. San Floriano opens with delicate scents of white spring flowers and white stone fruit. The elegant, unobtrusive palate draws all the attention to itself and offers creamy white peach, ripe green apple and a hint of citrus - and all this together with an extremely refined perlage. Delicious! SUPERIORE.DE

Sansonina (Lugana and Merlot) is a strictly limited and very ambitious project by the Zenato family, in which only the best grapes from their own vineyards are used. Only a small number of these are sold in numbered bottles each year.

Monte Carbonare comes from red volcanic iron soils with plenty of black basalt in the centre. Six hectares of 60-70 year old vines in cooler sites, which continue to rise to the crème de la crème of the top sites as the climate warms. A richer wine than the younger Classico, but without the same cheeky vitality. While the Classico is an unbeatable everyday wine, the Monte Carbonare is a complex wine that demands food and a little more contemplation. Mirabelle plum, apricot pit, a hint of dried mango and plenty of smoky, sharp mineral grip, with dutiful freshness that brings wonderful length. SUPERIORE.DE

Distilled from the pomace of the legendary Venegazzù della Casa – the Bordeaux blend that has been making history here on the Montello since the 1950s. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec provide the aromatic basis for this classic Grappa Bianca. Distillation is carried out using the traditional discontinuous method in a water bath (bagnomaria), in which small copper stills gently extract the fine flavours of the grape skins – a process that takes time but guarantees elegance.

When Nino Franco discovered the Col del Vent vineyard in 2014, it was like a step back in time for him. He realised that the tiny plot above Valdobbiadene was home to 100-year-old vines of Glera biotypes that had long since been replaced by modern clonal selections in the region and were in an excellent state of health. The following year, with the help of Marco Simonit, a master of pruning (consultant to Yquem, Latour and Roederer), he produced the first wine from this vineyard. He called it Nodi (knot) in reference to the gnarled trunks of the old vines.

An unusual cuvée in the still: Riva Vecia combines Cabernet and Glera marc (the Prosecco grape), the soul of the two wine worlds of Loredan Gasparini, in a single distillate. Where other grappas are single-varietal, Venegazzù takes the assemblage route, as with the famous Capo di Stato. Distillation is carried out using the traditional discontinuous method in a water bath, the gentle bagnomaria process in small copper stills.

In 1898, great-grandfather Titta mounted a still on a handcart and travelled from house to house to distil pomace. Four generations later, Jacopo Poli runs the family empire in Schiavon near Bassano del Grappa – with five discontinuous stills, including the original copper stills from 1956. Bomb follows a traditional recipe from Bassano: fresh egg yolks, fresh milk, sugar and the symbol of the region, grappa – grappa. The result is a "cream bomb" of beguiling density.

Prosecco del Fondatore Graziano Merotto is the winery's flagship wine – certainly one of the best of its denomination – and a very dry and complex brut from the special slopes of the Rive di Col San Martino. Bright silver-grey with a persistent perlage. Light fruit and flowers on the nose, a fine citrus note on the palate introduces the finesse-rich, exciting mineral flavour with an impressive finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Palazzotto is the name of the two hectares of vineyard where only Cabernet Sauvignon is grown. Fausto Maculan vinifies a fine wine from these grapes. A spicy start in the glass: cedar wood and ground ginger give way to dusty roses and redcurrants. It's elegant yet refined, with creamy textures lifted by vibrant acidity, while a wave of mineral-tinged wild berries lightly wash over the palate. Leaves a tart note of citrus and raspberry and subtle, grippy tannins that frame the wine without slowing its momentum. Although already showing very well now, this beautifully balanced version of Palazzotto should improve even more with medium-term cellaring. SUPERIORE.DE

The name says it all: "torcolare" – to twist, to braid. In Breganze, it was once a tradition to braid the Vespaiola grapes into plaits after the harvest and hang them under the cellar ceiling so that the air could circulate between the berries. An exercise in patience that takes months and ends with liquid gold. Fausto Maculan did not invent this wine – he saved it. When he took over the winery in the 1970s, Torcolato was an oxidised, syrupy relic. Fausto turned it into a modern sweet wine of international calibre: precise, fresh, lively. Today, 10–15% of the grapes are still woven and hung as Rosolo using the old method, the rest are dried in modern crates. After four months, the berries have lost almost 70% of their weight. Slow fermentation in steel tanks for around a month, followed by a year in French barriques.

Strong, bright straw yellow colour. Characterful, youthful and rich bouquet of dried nectarines, peach, yellow apple, mint and a fresh hint of almonds. The depth of its texture is in perfect contrast to the savoury acids, minerals and notes of sour apples, but a feeling of balanced ripeness always remains. The finish is long and structured and seems to melt slowly on the palate, leaving savoury spices and a fine tannin behind. It already has a lot to offer today, but should mature a little more in the bottle for more structure and elegance. A wonderfully exciting interpretation of Garganega from a small single vineyard in the Carbonare region. SUPERIORE.DE

Before there was Soave, there was this wine. In the fifth century, the Roman senator Cassiodorus praised a sweet wine made from dried grapes at the court of the Ostrogoth king Theodoric – acinaticum, the original form of what is now called Recioto di Soave. Fifteen hundred years later, in 1998, it became the first Venetian wine with DOCG status. And yet very few people know it. The story has been reversed: Amarone, which originated in the 1930s as a "runaway" Recioto – a barrel that accidentally fermented through –became a world star. Recioto, its ancestor, remained in the shadows. Guerrieri Rizzardi's version comes from old pergola vines in Costeggiola, planted between 1960 and 1998 on volcanic gravel. Only a third of the harvest is deemed worthy of drying in fruttaio for three to five months – a selection within the selection.

One of the first Bordeaux blends in Italy and still one of the best. Conte Loredan Gasparini has been vinifying this classic from the Alta Marca Trevigiana, just 50 kilometres from Venice, since 1951. The Montello area, declared a UNESCO biosphere reserve in 2016, offers ideal conditions for Bordeaux grape varieties with its ferrous clay soils (Ferreto) and cool microclimate. The cuvée combines Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec – a quartet that has found its northern Italian interpretation here for decades. Eighteen months of ageing in Slavonian oak barrels lend depth without dominating.

The light side of the Loredan Gasparini house and also its best-selling distillate. Fresh Glera marc is distilled immediately after gentle pressing in order to preserve the typical freshness and fruitiness of the grape variety. The traditional bagnomaria process in copper stills provides the raw distillate, but it is the eighteen months in small oak barrels that give this Riserva its special complexity.

"This wine comes from my family's historic vineyard. It is a wine that is the result of long reflection, study and experimentation, where nothing has been left to chance: Monte Grande is to be my great Soave wine." Graziano Prà