Umbria

Since its creation in 1998, Vitiano Rosso has been one of the most successful Italian red wines on the international market – a classic that masterfully combines tradition and modernity. The grapes grow on the hills around Orvieto, where sedimentary limestone-clay soils with volcanic influences form the basis, at an altitude of around 300 metres. The blend of one third each of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon is vinified separately: Merlot contributes fullness and velvety texture, Cabernet Sauvignon lends structure and depth, while Sangiovese provides balance with its lively acidity.

Arnaldo Caprai is Umbria – or more precisely: Montefalco. The house that brought Sagrantino out of its slumber and turned it into an international great has been in family hands since 1971. "Anima Umbra" is the light-footed side of this winery – no claim to eternity, but all the more pleasure in the moment. 85% Grechetto, 15% Trebbiano Spoletino. Three months in steel, three months in bottle – clear, direct, without detours. Grechetto provides the backbone: structure, a slight bitterness, mineral freshness. Trebbiano Spoletino rounds off, adds flavour and volume.

When you think of Umbria in red – and immediately think of Sagrantino. But Caprai knows that not every evening calls for a grand entrance. "Anima Umbra" Rosso is the honest antithesis, suitable for everyday use – made from the indigenous Sangiovese and Canaiolo varieties that have characterised Umbria for centuries, long before Sagrantino took over the headlines. Eight months in barriques, then in the bottle. The result: bright ruby red, redcurrant, plum, violet, fine tannin – dry, fresh, with natural fruit and the character of a region that has more to offer than just one star. With pasta with meat sauce, arrosto, salumi. This is Umbria, completely relaxed. SUPERIORE.DE

The world knows Montefalco above all in its dark red colour – sagrantino, tannin, depth. The fact that the Caprai house, which helped write this red legend, also produces white wines of distinction is its best kept secret. The Bianco Montefalco combines two very different partners: Trebbiano Spoletino – the autochthonous Umbrian grape variety, aromatic, fresh and acidic, with a subtle floral flavour – and Chardonnay, which adds fullness and flavour to the blend. No wood, just steel and time: three months of ageing, three months in the bottle. The result is not a white wine that tries to show off, but one that has a very respectable balance.

Arnaldo Caprai bottled his first wine in 1973 – a Montefalco Rosso made from Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Merlot. This Rosso was the beginning, the foundation stone for everything that was to follow: the rebirth of Sagrantino, the conquest of international wine critics, the transformation of a forgotten Umbrian village into a Mecca of wine tourism. Half a century later, this wine still carries the DNA of that vision – earthy, authentic, accessible. The extremely popular cuvée made from seventy per cent Sangiovese, fifteen per cent Sagrantino and fifteen per cent Merlot grows on the hills of Montefalco on limestone-clay soils.

The name reveals the grape variety, the origin and the claim in one word. Since 1989 – the first vintage – the Grecante Caprais has been the white flagship: 100% Grechetto, from the Colli Martani, the gentle hills south-east of Montefalco, where calcareous soils give the Grechetto its characteristic minerality. Three months in steel, then bottled. No wood, no distractions. The result landed in Wine Spectator's Top100 with the 2016 vintage – an honour that is anything but a matter of course for a single-varietal Umbrian white wine.

Tramonto d'Estate Rosato comes from south-east facing limestone slopes near Decugnano at 250 metres above sea level, where cool nights and clay-limestone soils provide ideal conditions. The Grenache grapes are harvested by hand in small crates. After gentle whole-cluster pressing and static clarification for 24 hours, temperature-controlled fermentation takes place at 16 °C. The wine then matures for four months. The wine then matures for four months on the fine lees.

Powerful ruby colour. Beautiful interplay between earthy notes, tobacco and dark berry fruit on the nose, finely characterised. Juicy on the palate and on the palate, flows calmly, grippy, well-integrated tannins, fine drinking flow. Much fresher and airier than expected, but still powerful. A harmonious all-rounder with ambition. SUPERIORE.DE

Trentanni was first produced for Falesco's 30th anniversary and combines equal parts Merlot and Sangiovese from the high altitudes around Montecchio and Orvieto. The mild climate and chalky soils give the cuvée elegance and structure. Intense ruby red colour in the glass. Ripe plum, dark cherry and blackcurrant on the nose, accompanied by Mediterranean herbs and a hint of vanilla from the six months of ageing in barriques. Balanced and juicy on the palate, with a fine tannin structure, lively acidity and clear fruit. The finish is long, savoury and subtly mineral. A wine with character and harmony that convincingly combines tradition and modern drinking pleasure. SUPERIORE.DE

Soente – a name that comes from the abbreviation of "sovente" (often), open and bright in sound. This pure Viognier comes from the Tenuta Montiano in the heart of Lazio, where the Cotarella family has been experimenting for years with international grape varieties that have adapted perfectly to the climate and soils of this area. Five hectares at an altitude of three hundred metres, loose, skeleton-rich soils – ideal conditions for a Viognier with freshness and aromatic depth.

Flaminia Maremmana. The name tells of paths that are older than Rome itself. Along an ancient branch of the Via Flaminia, the consular road that connected Rome with the Adriatic Sea from 220 BC, shepherds travelled with their flocks century after century: From the green Umbrian hills down to the Maremma, to the Transumanza, the seasonal transhumance that characterised the life of this landscape until the 20th century. Here, where sheep and shepherds once rested, where history is inscribed in the earth, the vines for this special Montefalco Rosso grow today. First vinified in 2007, it carries the soul of this historic terroir. The cuvée of seventy per cent Sangiovese, fifteen per cent Sagrantino and fifteen per cent Canaiolo thrives on south-east-facing limestone-clay soils.

The name Mare Antico (ancient sea) is a tribute to the marine fossils and shells found in the soils of Orvieto. It is a beautiful blend of 55% Grechetto, 20% Vermentino, 20% Chardonnay and 5% Procanico and is the house's flagship wine every year.

Castello della Sala, located not far from Orvieto at an altitude of 500 metres, produces excellent wines without exception, as the inexpensive "entry-level wine" San Giovanni della Sala proves. The wine is produced in the vineyards of the ancient castle of Castello della Sala from the combination of the indigenous grape varieties Grechetto and Procanico with Pinot Bianco and Viognier and interprets the Orvieto Classico in a new style. Its freshness, richness and balance are remarkable, with notes of yellow flowers, green apple, sage and ginger. On the palate, an incredibly silky texture and juicy acidity guide this juicy white wine into a beautiful, mineral finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Enzo Barbi produces just 3,500 bottles of this flavoursome Sauvignon Bianco every year. It rises from the glass with a lovely freshness, while a delicate wave of lemongrass, chalk dust and sweet custard fills the senses. On the palate, it flows with silky texture and ripe, citrus-kissed orchard fruits accompanied by lively acidity. A hint of mint leaves and green peas lingers on the classically dry finish, while L'Inquisitore ends remarkably tangy and with a slight mineral bite. This extremely pretty Sauvignon Bianco from Umbria makes a rather light-footed first impression, but leaves a big impression. SUPERIORE.DE

Verdeluce – green light – is the name of this wine that the Famiglia Cotarella dedicates to the hills around Orvieto, the area on the border between Lazio and Umbria that has always been synonymous with quality white wines. Riccardo and Renzo Cotarella, two of Italy's most influential Oenologist, founded Falesco in 1979 with the aim of revitalising forgotten grape varieties. Today, cousins Dominga, Marta and Enrica continue the legacy – with a modern style and an international outlook, without losing their roots in the territory.

Arnaldo Caprais Montefalco Rosso Riserva shows how much depth and complexity can be achieved with this combination of local varieties. The wine is intense and particularly concentrated thanks to ripe fruit and careful oak ageing. You can feel the power of the Sagrantino tannins, but this power is well measured and under control. With its dark and crunchy fruit, this is a wine that initially makes you bite your teeth out, but which becomes increasingly elegant as it matures in the bottle. SUPERIORE.DE

Conte della Vipera is a tribute to the first owners of the castle and the label refers to the 13th century chapel of St John, which is located on the estate. The vineyards are situated at an altitude of 250 to 350 metres above sea level on soils rich in fossilised marine deposits.

Collepiano (gentle hills) is what Marco Caprai calls the vineyards where his vision took shape at the end of the 1980s: to restore the Sagrantino, this ancient Umbrian vine with the highest tannin content in the wine world, to its lost greatness. Not as a sweet passito behind monastery walls, but as a dry red wine of international calibre. What followed was a revolution: collaboration with the University of Milan, clone selection, high-density plantings – and, in 1996, the legendary "25 Anni", the Sagrantino that Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones chose for their wedding. Collepiano comes from pure Sagrantino from the Val di Maggio vineyards. After the harvest, the must underwent temperature-controlled fermentation, followed by gentle extraction over ten to fourteen days. The cuvée matured for twenty-two months in French barriques and a further six months in the bottle – time that gave this tannin-rich wine structure and soul.

In the mysterious Etruscan caves under the hill of Decugnano, a sparkling wine matures at a constant 13° Celsius, which is only produced in extremely limited quantities. Claudio Barbi produced this Metodo Classico in 1978 as the first bottle fermenter in Umbria. At that time, it was still made from Procanico and Verdello grapes. Over the years, it has developed into something even more special by using Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and extending the ageing period on the lees to 4 years. The entire production process is artisanal: riddling and disgorging are still done manually and are carried out with noticeable care and passion.

In 1971, a successful textile merchant from Umbria bought an estate. Arnaldo Caprai wanted to make wine – no more, no less. What he didn't know was that the estate was called Val di Maggio, and the grape variety that grew on its hills would one day carry the name Montefalco into the world. It was Marco Caprai, the son, who recognised this potential. From 1988, he devoted himself to Sagrantino with a rigour that bordered on obsession – research partnership with the University of Milan, clone selection, new plantings, recalibration of the entire viticulture. Sagrantino, for centuries a monk's wine from Sicilian cellars, became an international great under his hands. And Valdimaggio, since 2012, is Caprai's most personal statement: named after the original estate, planted on 6,000 to 7,000 vines per hectare, on calcareous-clayey soils between 220 and 472 metres above sea level – the heart of the DOCG.

Caprais Montefalco Rosso is an attractive red made predominantly from Sangiovese with small amounts of Sagrantino and Merlot. The aroma is unmistakably of black cherries and violets. Juicy and playful on the palate, with balanced acidity that enlivens the crisp red berry fruit, which leaves a slight mineral touch towards the end. Plenty of power and freshness, good structure, elegant on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE

When the morning mist rises from the hills near Orvieto in late October and covers the vineyards of Castello della Sala like a silken veil, one of the most mysterious transformations in the world of wine begins. The grapes – sauvignon Blanc, Grechetto, Traminer, Sémillon and Riesling – are attacked by Botrytis Cinerea, the noble rot that has produced the world's greatest sweet wines for centuries. The fungus penetrates the grape skin with invisible precision, extracts the water from the pulp and concentrates sugars and flavours into an essence that would not be accessible to any cellar technology. In several patient passes, the harvesters pick only those berries that have reached the ideal degree of botrytisation – a process that requires connoisseurship and timing, as the right moment is fleeting. After gentle pressing, the must ferments for 18 days at a controlled cool 17 degrees before the still sweet wine is transferred to French barriques. Here it matures for months, absorbing delicate wood nuances while the aromas and structure harmonise, before ageing in stainless steel completes the work.

Marciliano is a truly ambitious Cabernet cuvée from the Sangiovese-dominated Montecchio/Orvieto region and reflects uncompromising quality and craftsmanship. The 2019 vintage was characterised by mild but structure-enhancing weather conditions: cool nights during the harvest phase and warm days that perfectly balanced the ripeness of the aromas. In the glass, it has a dense ruby red colour with a garnet red hue. The nose intones ripe sour cherry, stewed plums, ripe wild berries, and further develops smoke, leather, hints of white truffle and a touch of vanilla and cedar wood. Powerful yet polished on the palate – clearly structured, with fine-grained, ripe tannins, lively acidity and a substrate-rich, spicy texture. The ageing in barriques was selectively dosed and supports the spiciness without masking the varietal typicity. Marciliano is a serious, mature red wine with depth and potential. Expressive, focussed and with a lasting finish – a lasting ambassador of modern Umbria. SUPERIORE.DE