Wines from Tuscany | Montalcino

The Spuntali vineyard is historically known as the best area of the south-west, sea-facing slope of Montalcino. Spuntali is a historic cru for Brunello di Montalcino: it is its unique terroir, it is also the sunniest and driest of the three slopes of Brunello, and the sea, just 40 kilometres away, already provides a Mediterranean climate here.

Argiano recently caused an international sensation with its Brunello 2018, when the renowned Wine Spectator ranked it as the 8th best wine in the world in 2023. It is fermented in cement tanks and matured slowly in oak wood; its fruit comes from a 22-hectare vineyard with limestone marl soils. Now comes the follow-up vintage, and it is not only very promising because it already perfectly reflects the extraordinary Montalcino year 2019 in its own unique way.

Poggio Landis Brunello Riserva from the dream vintage 2016 is rich in fascinating floral notes. This wine is a statement of elegance and sensory freshness. Elderflower, geranium, noble magnolia and camphor on the nose. Full-bodied, powerful and lively on the palate, it is bursting with vigour and healthy tension with fine-grained, velvety tannins and a long, ethereal finish. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1991, Luigi Fabbro and Katia Nussbaum found an abandoned hill southeast of Montalcino: no water, no electricity – but 600-year-old olive trees and soil that had not seen any chemicals for decades. This is exactly what they were looking for. Gigi, a Friulian with experience in biodiversity mapping in the Amazon, and Katia, a London anthropologist, became pioneers of the biodynamic movement in Montalcino. All vintages have been certified organic since 2001. Of the 35 hectares, only four and a half are planted with vines. The rest: forest, wilderness, corridors for animals and insects. "I see every bottle as performance art," says Katia. "Our entire philosophy of life is in the wine." The basic Brunello comes from the northern slopes, on clayey, marly soils. Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts, matured for three and a half years in large Slavonian barrels.

"Pianrosso" – the red plain. When Giuseppe Bianchini began planting this vineyard in 1985, he knew that the heart of his heritage would beat here, on the iron-rich Galestro soils above the Orcia Valley. Eleven hectares between 240 and 360 metres, supported by the slate and marl subsoil that was once seabed before the nearby Monte Amiata left behind its volcanic minerality. Today, his son Paolo and his son Alex continue this legacy – three generations of Bianchini, who face Montalcino's hottest zone with organic cultivation and prudent restraint. The 2020 vintage demanded everything: July heat, which led to 15.5 per cent alcohol, but underneath lies the elegance for which Castelnuovo dell'Abate is famous.

Dark and powerful in the glass with full-bodied flavours of black cherry and blackberry. Spices, leather and balsamic herbs are evident in the background. Medium to full-bodied with very fine tannins that are polished and attractive and melt into the wine. What beautiful purity and finesse! SUPERIORE.DE

There are wines whose story is also told on the label. It used to say "Joanni", today "Ioanni" – a subtle shift that reveals more than just spelling preferences. In the past, "Merlot" was confidently emblazoned on the label, today it is just "Rosso Toscana IGT". The reasons may lie in the depths of wine law or in the strategic considerations of the family – but the wine itself remains what it always was: a rarity, an experiment, a statement – a top Merlot! The small "Bandita" vineyard is located in the south-eastern part of Montalcino, where the tuff and clay soils provide the international grape variety with the fertile soil it needs. Low yields, late harvest at optimum ripeness – the conditions for concentration and depth. Paolo Vagaggini, who has been shaping Fuligni's oenological signature for decades, vinifies this Merlot with the same meticulousness that characterises the great Brunellos. But here he allows himself more time: the grapes mature for three years in French Allier tonneaux, followed by a further year in the bottle before the wine leaves the estate.

Medium, radiant ruby red. Complex nose of sweet and cedar wood, paired with Mediterranean maquis and delicate sweet cherry. In the mouth, balsamic notes, very finely woven tannins and a wonderful complexity that envelops the juicy fruit core and gives the wine an impressive depth and length. The elegance is also very impressive and will certainly increase with further maturity. SUPERIORE.DE

Neris Edel-Rosso was born with the purchase of a very special vineyard. True to the winery's philosophy of only producing wines from the best terroirs around Montalcino, the small 7-hectare plot with over 45-year-old vines was acquired in 2018. This was preceded by over 40 years of friendship with the previous owners, with whom Giovanni Neri planted the vines and nurtured and cared for them over the past decades. Incidentally, the best grapes from this vineyard have been used for a small quantity of the eponymous Brunello di Montalcino since the 2018 vintage.

Nastagio (also known as Nastasio) is the name of an ancient farmhouse of the Fattoria di Sant'Angelo, which was already recorded in the maps of Grand Duke Leopold. Brunello Nastagio is released on the market five years after the harvest, as if it were a Riserva, and is the result of the many years of experience that Col d'Orcia has gained in the development and cultivation of the Sangiovese vineyard. It is also the result of the many research chapters that Col d'Orcia has been carrying out with the University of Florence for more than twenty years. The ageing in tonneaux (500 Liters) oak barrels and then in the traditional large "botti" represent an ideal combination between tradition and modernity, while maintaining the essential aspect of longevity.

Gentle balsamic notes with rosemary and lavender scents on the nose. When it opens in the glass, you can get a clear picture of the dark fruit at its centre and the delicate particles of chalk dust that frame the bouquet. The fruit for this wine comes from a five-hectare plot with alkaline soils that are rich in numerous mineral components. The complexity of the soils is reflected in the attractive bouquet, and this outstanding Riserva vintage offers a rich structure, velvety tannins and persistent intensity. SUPERIORE.DE

Caparzo's La Casa vineyard, located in an enviable position on the hill of Montosoli, has been vinified separately since 1977 and is one of the first single-vineyard bottlings in Montalcino. Like regular Brunello, La Casa has a surprising underlying acidity that gives the wine brightness and focus, the northern exposure of the parcel certainly playing a role. Fresh herbs and pomegranate contrast with nuances of sun-baked earth and incense. On the palate, the wine is very full-bodied and concentrated, with tactile tannins, yet remains fresh and flowing at all times. SUPERIORE.DE

Laura Brunelli's Brunello is an outstanding reflection of the appellation every year. A floral bouquet, the purest expression of cherry and strawberry imaginable, hints of mint, sage and cedar dust - all are found in its stunning bouquet. The youthful density of the ripe primary fruit contrasts with salty minerality and lively acidity, leaving a cascading and crisp impression on the palate. SUPERIORE.DE

Caparzo's La Casa vineyard, located in an enviable position on the hill of Montosoli, has been vinified separately since 1977 and is one of the first single-vineyard bottlings in Montalcino. Like the normal Brunello, La Casa has a surprising underlying acidity that gives the wine brightness and focus, and the northern exposure of the parcel has certainly played a role in this.

Neris Edel-Rosso was born with the purchase of a very special vineyard. True to the winery's philosophy of only producing wines from the best terroirs around Montalcino, the small 7-hectare plot with over 45-year-old vines was acquired in 2018. This was preceded by over 40 years of friendship with the previous owners, with whom Giovanni Neri planted the vines and nurtured and cared for them over the past decades. Incidentally, the best grapes from this vineyard have been used for a small quantity of the Brunello di Montalcino of the same name since the 2018 vintage.

Castello Romitorio's 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is a classic expression of the 5-star vintage in Montalcino (consortium rating), showing plenty of ripe fruit, minerality, herbal nuances and varietal purity. This wine hits the sweet spot between elegance and power, which is not easy to achieve. It offers a wide range of Sangiovese flavours with wild cherry, forest floor, crushed clove and medicinal herbs, but it also shows a plump density and a velvety texture. Filippo Chia and his team have created a highly attractive Brunello for medium to long drinking. SUPERIORE.DE

Andrea Cortonesi's Brunello di Montalcino 2020 shows its best side right from the start; it is a Brunello of broodingbeauty, intensity and complexity. The nose is characterised by a generous dose of primary fruit, primarily cherry and blackberry. This is complemented by wonderfully balanced secondary flavours from the oak, reminiscent of spices, cinnamon and dark smoke. On the palate, it explodes from the starting line and delivers a steady pace throughout. Subtle notes of spice and barbecue smoke add further facets to the impressive finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Enrica and Ettore learned winemaking from none other than Giancarlo Pacenti. The grapes for this vinophile masterpiece come from a small vineyard in Castelnuovo dell'Abate. Deep, full-bodied expression with warm aromatic layers adding impressive intensity to the bouquet of dark plum, blackberry, dried cherry, liquorice, tar, black truffle and leather. Then on the palate, a beguiling extract sweetness, again very complex and resonant, in quiet unison with the characteristics of the exceptional terroir. The 36 months of very slow ageing in large oak barrels provide a wonderful harmony and a very good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

In the hills south of Castelnuovo dell'Abate, where the soils are characterised by galestro and clay and the view sweeps over the Orcia Valley, a Rosso is created that can hardly be called a "second wine". Poggio di Sotto elevates the genre of Rosso di Montalcino to an art form and the 2022 vintage emphasises this with rare clarity. The year was warm, but not impetuous: after a dry winter, the summer brought high temperatures, but also large temperature differences between day and night. The autumn, dry and mild, allowed for a late, staggered harvest: An advantage for a winery that harvests Sangiovese as selectively as if it were a Grand Cru. The wine is fermented spontaneously in open wooden vats and matured in large Slavonian oak barrels – for almost three years, although the law requires far less. What would be a Brunello in other cellars is deliberately bottled as a Rosso here. And that is by no means an understatement, but a stylistic decision.

Sandro Chia's remarkable 2020 vintage is taut, forward and downright bold in the glass. On the palate, it impresses with a lot of natural richness and beautiful opulence of fruit, complemented by varietal elements of wild cherry, blue flowers and soft earth. Secondary flavours of tobacco, cedar and cinnamon then quickly surprise, adding complexity and personality to the wine, which is built up in many deep layers. It has wonderful potential for further ageing in the bottle, but it is already an absolute delight and the quality of the fruit and its length make it irresistible. SUPERIORE.DE

Mulino comes from a lower-lying vineyard with a high proportion of marine fossils in the soil. It is dark and rich in the glass, with notes of plum jam, balsamic herbs, pine shavings and cloves, but also with a mentholated freshness that centres the whole experience. On the palate, it glides like pure silk, elegant and supple, with ripe, balsamic fruit and a hint of sweet mint. Finishes with a powerful structure and persistence, leaving behind nuances of cedar wood and red plums. SUPERIORE.DE