Wine

Italy's smallest wine region doesn't do things by halves. The Aosta Valley lies wedged between the highest peaks of the Alps, crossed by the Dora Baltea, characterised by moraine soils left behind by glaciers and a climate that demands everything from the vines: short summers, long winters, extreme temperature differences between day and night. Viticulture here is not a decision for the faint-hearted.

Bucine, Valdarno di Sopra – where the Arno meanders through rolling hills between Arezzo and Florence, Fattoria Petrolo lies at an altitude of between 250 and 500 metres. In 1988, Lucia Bazzocchi Sanjust wanted a wine that would convey the true identity of this terroir: Petrolo's "Château", a tribute to the centuries-old Tuscan tradition of blending French grape varieties with Sangiovese. As early as 1834, Giorgio Perrin, an agronomist of Swiss origin and owner of Petrolo, reported in the *Giornale Agrario Toscano* as early as 1834 that it was common practice in Chianti to blend "uve francesi" with Sangiovese, not to alter the quality, but because the terroir takes precedence over the grape varieties.

A signature classic from the Collio: Schiopetto’s single-varietal Sauvignon Bianco comes from old vines around Capriva del Friuli – on marl and sandstone soils that are perfectly suited to aromatic varieties. Hand-harvesting, a short maceration period and ageing in stainless steel tanks preserve the wine’s freshness and precision. Pale yellow with greenish highlights. The bouquet is intense but never overpowering: white currant, salted lemon, elderflower, a hint of lemon balm and wet stone. On the palate, it is clear, straightforward and elegant, with lively acidity, salty minerality and a delicate citrus zest in the long finish.

Classic Etna Rosso from Nerello Mascalese with a small proportion of Nerello Cappuccio – grown at an altitude of over 700 metres in various contrade on the northern flank of the volcano, where ash, lava rock and the alpine microclimate form an unmistakable style. Medium ruby red in colour with a garnet-red rim. On the nose, fragrant sour cherry, redcurrant, humming berry, a metallic hint, floral notes and subtle spice. Precise on the palate, with cool fruit, lively acidity and fine-grained tannins. The ageing in used wooden barrels and cement tanks maintains the balance and expression of origin. An authentic, elegant Etna Rosso with good drinkability. SUPERIORE.DE

Pithos – the ancient Greek word for the terracotta vessels in which wine and oil were stored in antiquity. When Giusto Occhipinti travelled to Georgia in 1999 and discovered the local qvevri tradition, he ordered the first amphorae in 2000. COS thus became one of the first pioneers of amphora vinification in the whole of Italy. Grecanico – the grape variety of the Greeks, brought to Sicily more than 2,500 years ago – grows on red limestone gravel soils near Vittoria, at 250 metres, cultivated biodynamically. Spontaneous fermentation with the skins inLiters, six to seven months, natural yeasts, no added sulphur.

"La Stipula" - "The signing of the contract". The names of Gerardo Giuratrabocchetti's wines are reminiscent of his father's world as a notary. White vinified vintage sparkling wine from the Aglianico grape – a real rarity! The elegant Metodo Classico Millesimato pas dosé exudes delicate aromas of fresh spring flowers, magnificent almond blossom, pink grapefruit and ripe lemon. On the palate, you get a sense of the tannin structure and the power of the Aglianico grape, the perlage is firm and excellently defined, the flavour is broad, delicate and bone-dry. SUPERIORE.DE

Mirum (the miracle) is a statement of limestone, altitude and time. It is no ordinary Verdicchio, but one of the most charismatic Riserva bottlings in central Italy. Vinified since 1990, it comes from a particularly barren, limestone-rich south-western slope above Matelica, where the vines grow at over 400 metres. The wine is matured exclusively in stainless steel, but with long lees ageing – a decision that combines clarity, texture and ageing potential.

Anyone who underestimates Pinot Bianco simply hasn't drunk a good one. The variety loves windy locations, poor marl soils and cool nights – all characteristics that the Collio Goriziano offers in abundance. Schiopetto cultivates it on the Ponca slopes of Capriva, where small, compact grapes ripen with golden-coloured berries that need no support in the cellar. A special feature of the vinification process: the wine is fermented with Pied de Cuve – a proprietary yeast from our own vineyards. This keeps the fermentation authentic and the flavour close to the origin. Steel, eight months on the fine lees, no intervention.

The Pratzner family keeps a few hundred bottles of each good vintage, which are then matured in the cellar for a further 6 years. These refined wines are then sold in small quantities as "Private Reserves" to selected retailers and restaurants, demonstrating the impressive ageing potential of their wines, which are matured for 10 months on the fine lees. Strong straw yellow colour. Intense bouquet of gooseberry with a restrained hint of paprika. Full and juicy on the palate with grapefruit and citrus flavours and an interesting, stimulating spiciness. With an almost youthful freshness and juiciness, this multi-layered Riserva also glides into a wonderfully long, mineral finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Fiumana di Predappio – sangiovese has had its home here since the Middle Ages. The estate's lowest vineyards between 80 and 150 metres provide the grapes for the Federico, named after the family's long-time employee. Fermentation and nine months of ageing take place 70% in stainless steel and 30% in oak wood – enough structure without masking the fruit. Bright ruby red colour. The nose literally leaps out of the glass: fresh cherries, raspberries, a hint of herbs and violets. Lean and juicy on the palate, with fine tannins that invite you to take another sip. A charming Sangiovese that does not make you ponder, but is a pleasure to drink – uncomplicated in the best sense of the word, certified organic and exactly what an everyday wine should be. SUPERIORE.DE

Pergolaia consists mainly of Sangiovese with smaller proportions of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The wine opens with a medium-bodied attack and a bright bouquet characterised by notes of cherry, wild plum, ploughed earth and pressed blue flowers. This very Mediterranean-style red with a strong personality envelops the palate with a delicate, silky intensity. SUPERIORE.DE

Giulia Negri is known as the "Barolo Girl" – and rightly so. After leaving Olivetti in the 1970s, her grandfather began planting the slopes of Serradenari, one of the highest crus in the Barolo appellation. Today, Giulia runs the estate with a style that combines Burgundian sensibility with Piedmontese consistency – spontaneous fermentation, traditional vats, no additions, minimal filtration. Their Barbera grapes grow on north-facing plots in La Morra – serradenari, at 400 metres, on tortonian, sandy-loamy soil. A northern exposure at this altitude means: cool, slow ripening, natural acidity. Spontaneous fermentation in steel, then 16 months of ageing between steel and Liters French tonneaux – a maturity that gives the Barbera far more depth than one would expect.

South Tyrol's Gewürztraminer has some top-class competition here: this unique white wine is made from one hundred per cent Albana grapes, 20% of which is only harvested as a late harvest after botrytis infestation in November. Only 2,800 bottles are sold.

Vermentino is generally regarded as an everyday wine at a good level. Fresh, aromatic, made for summer. Vigne Surrau challenges this assumption with its "Life Edition". The same Vermentino, the same granite weathered soils of Arzachena in Gallura – but a radically different idea behind it: What happens if you give Vermentino time? Real time, that is. Hand-picking from mid-September, cooling immediately after destemming, short maceration at low temperatures, fermentation in stainless steel tanks at 16 to 18 °C with bâtonnage. Up to this point, the Life Edition corresponds to the famous Sciala. Then comes the difference: 12 months of ageing in equal parts in 225-litre Liters containers and Liters concrete vats – two neutral, low-oxygen vessels that mould the wine without overlaying it. Then at least 9 months in the bottle.

GROSSO is a Blanc de Noirs produced using the traditional Champagne method and aged on its fine lees for 24 months. A delicate pink colour and a fine, persistent effervescence. A crisp bouquet of violets, citrus zest, nectarine and wild strawberry. On the palate, it has lovely momentum, with very straightforward notes of red berries. Very well-balanced, it dances its way to a respectable finish with subtle spice and impressive freshness. SUPERIORE.DE

Crognolo is a wonderfully balanced wine that offers the tangy freshness and acidity of Sangiovese, which is balanced and softened by the small proportion of Merlot. The wine smells of cherry, blackberry and plum. Its primary intensity is bright and cheerful. The juicy finish shows a nice density, extraction and well-integrated tannins. SUPERIORE.DE

When Giuseppe Russo talks about his rosato, his eyes light up with the same intensity as the powder-pink glow that settles over the Contrada San Lorenzo in the early days of October. Here, where eighty-year-old Nerello Mascalese vines are rooted in volcanic soil at an altitude of 700 metres, one of Italy's most elegant rosés is created – born from the perfect balance between timing and technique. The magic begins with the early manual harvest, when the grapes have that crystalline freshness that only the cool Etna nights can give. Giuseppe uses a traditional vertical press in which the whole grapes are gently pressed for five hours – long enough to extract the delicate colour, short enough to preserve the mineral elegance. No maceration on the skins, no artificial intervention: just the natural connection between grape and volcanic terroir. After spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, the wine matures for six months in stainless steel, where it develops its characteristic finesse.

Schiopetto has been producing Pinot Grigio since 1968 – long before it became (unfortunately, in some other regions) Italy's best-selling mass-market white wine – and the Rotolo family has never forgotten what it truly excels at: depth, juiciness and mineral vigour. On the Ponca hills of Capriva del Friuli, in marly soils of Eocene origin, the variety finds a terroir that leaves no room for mediocrity. Gentle pressing, brief sulphur-free decanting, fermentation in stainless steel at a controlled temperature – followed by eight months' ageing on the lees. No oak, no detours, everything focused on the Ponca.

When you say Braida, you mean Barbera. Ever since Giacomo Bologna proved in the 1980s that this underestimated grape variety can reach barrique maturity and world class, the name has been synonymous with the Piedmontese red wine revolution. Connoisseurs know that the family also produces white wines – but La Regina, Re di Fiori and the Asso di Fiori are deliberately labelled differently: Serra dei Fiori. This is the name of the vineyard near Trezzo Tinella in the Langhe, which the Bolognas acquired together with the Giacosa brothers in 1988. A separate terroir, a joint venture, a separate project. This makes what Giuseppe and Raffaella Bologna now dare to do all the more significant: the first white wine to bear the name Braida. Vinified not in the Langhe, but in the historic cellar of Rocchetta Tanaro – the heart of the estate. The grapes come from the Colli Tortonesi, the hills east of Alessandria, where the Timorasso has been rooted since the Middle Ages and was saved from extinction thanks to pioneers like Walter Massa.

Luigi Veronelli was regarded as Italy’s most influential wine critic of the 20th century. In the 1970s, he named the Müller-Thurgau from Pojer e Sandri’s Località Palai vineyard his absolute benchmark wine for the variety. Mario Pojer recalls: “Today, 50 years on, we pay tribute to the variety that has found its ideal habitat.” Fifty years later – the character remains the same. The conviction remains. Palai lies at 700 metres. This is the estate’s highest vineyard – the very same that gives Pinot Noir its alpine coolness and Riesling its precision! For Müller-Thurgau, it is the ideal terroir: a long growing season, cool nights, pronounced temperature variation, chalky soils, and the breeze of the Ora del Garda.