Wine

Chiappemacine is the lowest of the five single vineyards of Passopisciaro – only 550 metres above sea level, at the lowest foothills of the Etna lava flows. Here, where the thin layer of lava meets a limestone bed to which the roots of the 70 to 100-year-old Nerello vines penetrate, a different style emerges: fuller, rounder, more accessible than the higher-lying contrade. This small domain covers just 1.2 hectares – but what grows here has its own personality. Fermented in steel tanks, matured for 18 months in large neutral oak barrels – a minimalist vinification that lets the terroir speak for itself.

In 1987, Paolo Foradori coined a term that changed South Tyrol's wine world: "Vigna". Not as a marketing idea, but as a conviction – that a wine only shows its true character when it comes from a single, clearly defined vineyard. Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano was the first South Tyrolean winery to put this philosophy on its label. Today, a generation later, Martin Foradori-Hofstätter continues to pursue this idea with the same rigour and the term "Vigna" has found its way throughout South Tyrol. Mazon is the absolute cru location for South Tyrolean Pinot Nero – a gentle high plateau on the cooler eastern side of the Adige Valley, at 450 metres, where clay-limestone soils lie above the so-called Werfen formation: heterogeneous sedimentary rocks that give the soil a mineral depth that is unmistakably evident in the wine. The vines at Vigna San Urbano are over 65 years old – roots that reach deep enough to keep calm even in difficult years.

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been allowed to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive) introduced in 2021 on the labels of the top Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, it is a logical step to produce wines that reflect the area in which they were produced as authentically as possible. And customers can thus deepen their knowledge of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin - a real added value.

When Virginie Saverys and Max De Zarobe realised that Montepulciano could only regain its historic reputation by working together, they founded Alleanza Vinum. Six prestigious wineries – salcheto, Poliziano, La Braccesca, Dei, Boscarelli and Avignonesi – joined forces in 2017 with a shared mission: each would create its own 100 per cent Sangiovese cru every year, embodying the rediscovery of Vino Nobile. Avignonesi’s contribution comes from the legendary Caprile vineyard, planted in 1978 at an altitude of 300 metres. The soil tells a story spanning millions of years: marine sediments from the Pliocene, interspersed with deep veins of blue sodium clay, rich in silt and limestone – — a terroir that lends the Sangiovese exceptional depth. After 28 days of controlled maceration with natural yeasts selected from the ‘pied-de-cuve’, the wine matures for 24 months in large oak barrels.

The wine comes from a single, gently sloping vineyard above Rocchetta Tanaro, called Bricco dell'Uccellone, named after an elderly local woman who always kept a sharp eye on the vineyards, dressed in black. Here, old vines grow on barren, chalky soils that produce low yields but highly concentrated harvest. With tireless dedication, the Bologna family fulfils the legacy of Giacomo Bologna, who is rightly described as the father of modern Barbera d'Asti. 2021 began with a cool spring, followed by a warm, stable summer that ensured slow, even ripening. The grapes were hand-picked in perfect condition, followed by a long maceration and 12 months of ageing in French barriques.

At 618 metres above sea level, where the air already carries the coolness of the mountains and the view sweeps over the entire Chianti Valley, lies one of the most venerable vineyards in Tuscany: Coltassala – once born as a rebellious Supertuscan, today ennobled as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione from the UGA Radda, embodies the revolution and evolution of Tuscan viticulture like no other wine. In 1980, Federica Mascheroni Stianti's family took the plunge: when the DOC system was still forcing Trebbiano and Malvasia into Chianti, they pressed a pure Sangiovese wine up here in small barriques based on the French model instead of the traditional large Slavonia barrels. What was then still misjudged as Vino da Tavola heralded a new era. Today, with the new UGA rules of Chianti Classico (Unita Geografiche Aggiunte, in Germany one would say Lage, in France Cru), Coltassala is finally finding its well-deserved home – as a Gran Selezione from the Radda geographical unit, which stands for the most extreme and elegant expressions of Chianti Classico. The altitude gives the 2021 vintage that characteristic freshness that makes Radda so unique – despite the warm weather, the wine retains its crystalline acidity and vibrancy.

Mulino comes from a lower-lying vineyard with a high proportion of marine fossils in the soil. It is dark and rich in the glass, with notes of plum jam, balsamic herbs, pine shavings and cloves, but also with a mentholated freshness that centres the whole experience. On the palate, it glides like pure silk, elegant and supple, with ripe, balsamic fruit and a hint of sweet mint. Finishes with a powerful structure and persistence, leaving behind nuances of cedar wood and red plums. SUPERIORE.DE

There are wines that change a grape variety forever. Granato is one of them. The legendary Teroldego that has been convincing the wine world since 1987 that Italy's Alpine heights can produce red wines of international calibre. Its name is both programme and poetry: Granato – the pomegranate, the ancient Mediterranean fruit that, like the vine, came to Italy thousands of years ago and whose ruby-coloured seeds remind Elisabetta Foradori of the essence of perfect grapes. In the historic Noval, Regin and Pedot vineyards of Campo Rotaliano, where Teroldego vines over seventy years old sink their roots deep into the Dolomite soil, a wine of monumental proportions is created. Here, on the alluvial sediments of prehistoric times, these ancient vines have grown in complexity decade after decade. Elisabetta's biodynamic philosophy reaches its purest form with these Methuselah vines: Not to intervene, but to guide nature to its peak.

Walter Massa's single-vineyard Timorasso Montecitorio is produced through a cold maceration of approx. 40 hours, followed by a fermentation of approx. 12 months in stainless steel tanks with regular batonnage of the yeast for approx. 12 months.

Domizio Cavazza had vineyards in Ovello. When he founded the first Cantine Sociale in Barbaresco in 1894, Ovello was already part of his plan – one of the oldest and most original vineyards in this appellation. Today, with over twenty hectares, Ovello is by far the largest of the nine Produttori del Barbaresco sites and is located at the northernmost point of the municipal area, where the hill has various exposures – west-south-west and east-south-east – on a soil that is both calcareous and rich in clay. The clay is more present here than elsewhere in Barbaresco, and it gives the wine its typical opulence: plump fruit, full body, firm tannins. The Produttori del Barbaresco also vinify Ovello according to the same principle that has been maintained for decades: 28 days of maceration, at least thirty months in large Slavonian barrels, a further year in the bottle. The Riserve are bottled exclusively in exceptional vintages – and 2021 leaves no doubt about that.

There are wines that are counted – by points, by vintage and also occasionally by price. And then there is VinSanGiusto. This is counted and rated according to rare experiences. 90% Malvasia, 10% Trebbiano, harvested by hand when the ripeness is right. Then comes the most unusual part: the grapes are dried on racks in well-ventilated rooms. Quite a few weeks – around 140 days. They lose water for almost five months, concentrating their sugars, acids and flavours. Then they are pressed. What follows is true anachronism in the best sense of the word. The must is placed in small chestnut barrels – 40 to 180 Liters – and is stored in attics, where it is exposed to seasonal temperature fluctuations. Summer and winter, heat and cold, year after year. Six years. During this time, it ferments and develops slowly, without intervention. 40% of the liquid evaporates, which also explains the extraordinary concentration. No rush, no control, no shortcuts. Then the filtration: drop by drop through Dutch cloth. Then 18 months in the bottle. And not a single gram of added sulphur.

The indigenous white grape variety Timorasso led a shadowy existence for many years, but today some winegrowers are already calling it the "white Barolo". This is partly due to its great complexity and finesse, and partly due to the excellent ageing potential of the wines.

A red wine with energy and contour: "Rosso del Gnemiz" combines Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon – a classic cuvée that has its very own Friulian character. The grapes come from various plots around San Giovanni al Natisone, whose Ponca soils lend depth and structure. The 2022 vintage produced ripe, healthy berries that retained their tension thanks to cool nights. Brilliant ruby red in the glass with a youthful glow. The bouquet opens with fresh black cherry, sour cherry and plum, as well as herbs, tobacco, violets and a subtle graphite note. On the palate, it shows taut, juicy fruit, concise, still youthful tannins and a lively acidity that gives it a clear contour. The barrel ageing provides additional depth, but remains discreetly in the background.

Between the hills of Gaiole and Radda in Chianti, at an altitude of 460 to 525 metres, lies one of the most extraordinary wine estates in Tuscany. Since 1982, Marco Pallanti and Lorenza Sebasti have shaped the fortunes of Castello di Ama – a winemaking couple who have helped Chianti Classico achieve worldwide recognition. "Ama" was created in 2010 with the introduction of the Gran Selezione as an independent line and represents the essence of the estate's younger Sangiovese clones. Made from 96% Sangiovese and 4% Merlot, the wine comes from densely planted vineyards on chalky, clayey soils. The grapes are harvested exclusively by hand, fermented spontaneously with natural yeasts and matured for twelve months in second-use barriques.

There are wines whose story is also told on the label. It used to say "Joanni", today "Ioanni" – a subtle shift that reveals more than just spelling preferences. In the past, "Merlot" was confidently emblazoned on the label, today it is just "Rosso Toscana IGT". The reasons may lie in the depths of wine law or in the strategic considerations of the family – but the wine itself remains what it always was: a rarity, an experiment, a statement – a top Merlot! The small "Bandita" vineyard is located in the south-eastern part of Montalcino, where the tuff and clay soils provide the international grape variety with the fertile soil it needs. Low yields, late harvest at optimum ripeness – the conditions for concentration and depth. Paolo Vagaggini, who has been shaping Fuligni's oenological signature for decades, vinifies this Merlot with the same meticulousness that characterises the great Brunellos. But here he allows himself more time: the grapes mature for three years in French Allier tonneaux, followed by a further year in the bottle before the wine leaves the estate.

For some years now, Riccardo Cotarella's Montiano has been characterised by great freshness and dark, concentrated fruit. In contrast to the vintages of the early 1990s, the wine has become much livelier and more dynamic. And the 2021 vintage brings a new nuance to this characterful Merlot: riper, denser and finer at the same time. The climatic conditions – an early summer temperature rise followed by cooler evening hours – allowed for slow, even ripening with perfect concentration levels. As always, the Montefiascone region delivers mineral-structured fruit and precise floral components.

Pieve refers to the old ecclesiastical administrative units of medieval Tuscany, the hubs around which rural life was organised long before modern appellations existed. The Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has taken these historical toponyms as the basis for twelve Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive – the UGA system, which officially came into force in February 2025. The 2021 vintage is the first to be allowed to bear this designation. Boscarelli has been based in Cervognano since 1962 – one of the twelve Pievi, named after the Romanesque Pieve di Sant'Albino, which has defined the area for centuries.

Medium, radiant ruby red. Complex nose of sweet and cedar wood, paired with Mediterranean maquis and delicate sweet cherry. In the mouth, balsamic notes, very finely woven tannins and a wonderful complexity that envelops the juicy fruit core and gives the wine an impressive depth and length. The elegance is also very impressive and will certainly increase with further maturity. SUPERIORE.DE

In the early 14th century, a place name appears in a document from Castelnuovo dell'Abate: "Vallocchio Brunello" – bordered between the "Podio Rubeo" and "Piage di Monte Caprile" parcels. This is the oldest documentary reference to viticulture in this municipality. Seven centuries later, the five oldest vineyards of Tenuta Fanti stand on this very land. History has never stopped here. Filippo Fanti has studied, cultivated and observed this terroir for decades. 2010 was the year – the first Vallocchio. Since then, it has only been released in exceptional vintages: no pressure, no annual promise, but a selective statement about what the place really has to say in a particular season. Five hectares, 20 to 35-year-old vines, well-draining Galestro soils of medium texture at 230 to 250 metres above sea level. Hand-picked from the second half of September to mid-October, depending on exposure and plot.

A wine that breathes history and yet floats lightly through the modern style: Sito Moresco bears his name in memory of the former family that owned the legendary cru near Barbaresco. For Angelo Gaja, this wine – first vinified in 1991 – marked the entry into a new class: an everyday Langhe, elegantly balanced between regionality and internationality. Since the 2020 edition, the cuvée has consisted exclusively of Nebbiolo and Barbera from selected parcels in Barbaresco and Barolo. Here, the delicate structure and mineral depth of Nebbiolo are combined with the rounder fruit and accessibility of Barbera – without ever appearing too harmonious, but rather complementary and sharpened. Sito Moresco is a modern classic, clear in character, elegant in style, and a Gaja reference in which authenticity and readability merge wonderfully.

What begins with a seductive bouquet of delicate plums and a hint of mint gains volume and depth as grilled sage and rum-soaked blackcurrants mingle with sweet tobacco and allspice. Its texture is silky and fleshy, accompanied by a nervous acidity, while ripe black cherries and a hint of cranberry sauce create a sweet and sour tension on the palate. The concentration is astonishing, yet the energy remains incredibly high, even if the grippy tannins increase towards the end. Notes of sour citrus fruits, savoury herbs and tart wild berries linger incredibly long in the structured yet remarkably fresh final. Only around 3,000 bottles of this cru are produced and it is a real must-have for all Aglianico lovers! SUPERIORE.DE

Nastagio (also known as Nastasio) is the name of an ancient farmhouse of the Fattoria di Sant'Angelo, which was already recorded in the maps of Grand Duke Leopold. Brunello Nastagio is released on the market five years after the harvest, as if it were a Riserva, and is the result of the many years of experience that Col d'Orcia has gained in the development and cultivation of the Sangiovese vineyard. It is also the result of the many research chapters that Col d'Orcia has been carrying out with the University of Florence for more than twenty years. The ageing in tonneaux (500 Liters) oak barrels and then in the traditional large "botti" represent an ideal combination between tradition and modernity, while maintaining the essential aspect of longevity.

The grapes come from the historic centrepiece of the Planeta estate in Ulmo near Sambuca di Sicilia – a vineyard that was planted back in the mid-1980s. The vines are rooted at an altitude of around 250 metres in loamy-sandy soils with a high lime content, not far from Lake Arancio. Deep ruby red in the glass with a purple rim. The nose opens powerfully and invitingly: black cherry, plum, cassis and blueberry, accompanied by cocoa, tobacco, fresh leather and a subtle herbal spice. On the palate, Sito dell'Ulmo is both full-bodied and elegant: dense, with polished tannins, fresh acidity and a long, silky finish. The integration of the wood is finely balanced and the fruit always remains in the foreground. A Sicilian Merlot with format, origin and depth. SUPERIORE.DE

Ceretto's 2019 Barolo combines the power of the vintage with the subtle signature of the house. The grapes come from various organically farmed cru sites in La Morra, Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d'Alba – a composition that emphasises diversity and balance. On the nose, a precise, deep bouquet of dark cherry, ripe raspberry, dried rose and subtle hints of tobacco, liquorice and spicy undergrowth.