The Wine Advocate

From the white earth of Noto, between stone walls, olive trees and orange blossom, rises Doppiozeta, a wine that doesn't illustrate south-eastern Sicily, but condenses it. It is one of the two flagships of the Mazzei family's Zisola project - a deep, finely constructed red that gives Nero d'Avola a voice that is rarely heard: concentrated, serious, supple. The vines grow on calcareous soil on a gentle slope just a few kilometres from the sea. Nero d'Avola is clearly in the foreground here, complemented by Syrah and Cabernet Franc - a precisely placed tension between fruit, flavour and structure. The grapes are harvested by hand with the utmost care, fermented in conical stainless steel tanks, after which the wine matures for around 16 months in French oak, with a small proportion in new wood.

The name Il Bruciato, literally "the fire", commemorates a historic forest fire disaster on the Guado al Tasso estate: At the beginning of the 20th century, an extensive area of woodland on the estate was completely destroyed by fire. Since then, the wine has poetically recounted this event – and the reconstruction, which also symbolises perseverance, identity and the connection between landscape and wine. Since its debut vintage in 2002, Guado al Tasso has been pursuing the idea of an accessible red Bolgheri wine that is nevertheless true to its origins and terroir. The vines grow in the immediate neighbourhood of the Bolgheri Superiore, and the wine is vinified with precision and an eye for balance.

Pinot Blanc has been part of the Sanct Valentin line since 2001 – born out of the realisation that this long underestimated variety is capable of achieving extraordinary things at the high altitudes of Eppan-Berg. Between 450 and 600 metres, where limestone gravel and clay form the foundation, ten to thirty-two year old vines grow facing south-southeast. Extremely low yields from meticulously selected plots. Hand-picked at the end of September, then two different methods: one half fermented with malolactic fermentation and yeast storage in barriques and tonneaux, the other in large oak barrels. After just under a year, the wine is blended when it is clear what belongs together – then a further eight months of maturation in steel tanks to finalise the balance.

Feudi di San Gregorio's DUBL project was born in 2004 from an awareness of the great richness of the autochthonous vines of the Irpinia region and the desire to open up new horizons for them: as a Metodo Classico Spumante or by means of the famous Méthode Champenoise. An advisor was quickly found for this - none other than Anselme Selosse, who is known for his champagnes and his feeling for the particularities of the vines and vineyards.

At some point in the history of Nals Margreid, the Gambero Rosso even declared Sirmian to be the best white wine in Italy. We are not surprised. Above Nals, in the Sirmian district, the slopes lie between 500 and 700 metres above sea level. South-east facing, alpine climate: mild summers, cool autumns, a long growing season that ends in mid-October with the harvest. The soil is a geological archive: Permeable glacial moraine of limestone, gneiss, mica, slate and marble, deposited millions of years ago by glaciers in the Western Alps, resting on porphyry, the volcanic bedrock of the bedrock.

The 2022 marks a significant transition: it is the last vintage that Paolo de Marchi characterised before Emanuele Reolon took over as technical director. But the signature remains unmistakable. Since the 1980s, de Marchi was one of the first in Chianti Classico to plant high-density vineyards with low-yielding Sangiovese clones on poor Galestro soils at an altitude of 400 metres – a revolution in quality. The cuvée of 90% Sangiovese, supplemented by 10% Canaiolo, ferments for twelve days in stainless steel using the characteristic délestage method, which de Marchi has been refining since 1996. Seven months of ageing in barriques of different sizes give the wine complexity without dominance.

Pinot Grigio Unterebner is an exceptional wine: golden yellow in colour, elegant aromas of blossom honey, lavender and tropical fruit. Delicate buttery notes, very balanced and charismatic, long and powerful on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The Nebbiolo grapes for Matteo's entry-level Barolo (formerly blue label) come from his three vineyards Serralunga d'Alba, La Morra and Verduno. His style is characterised by a skilful balance between structural depth and accessibility. Brilliant ruby colour with a lively shimmer in the glass. The nose is elegant and multifaceted: wild berries, rose petals, aniseed and a fine herbal note interweave with a delicate undertone of mineral freshness. The tannin structure appears finely integrated in the mouth; clearly defined fruit and present, invigorating acidity characterise the first impression. The finish shows salty residues and an attractive length – elegant, powerful and stylish. This Barolo is a very successful introduction to the region, accessible enough to be enjoyed young, but open to time and ageing. It exemplifies a modern interpretation of the Barolo narrative: without much pathos, but with depth and origin. SUPERIORE.DE

Proud single-vineyard Sicilian in a small edition made from 100% Carricante. Fine bouquet of citrus fruits and apricots. Wonderfully juicy fruit on the palate paired with good structure, balanced acidity, fine minerality and appealing length. SUPERIORE.DE

Contrada 2020 is a monumental Nero d'Avola that tells the story of old vines. Grown in Bastonaca, near Vittoria, these vines are rooted in mineralised red clay soils infused with limestone and silicate – this is the fundamental terroir that COS works out biodynamically with clear standards, as 100% Nero d'Avola from over 50-year-old Alberello vines is cultivated exclusively organically. After spontaneous fermentation, the wine matures in small oak barrels – an ageing process that adds depth and spicy finesse without drowning in wood.

Rosso delle Fontane from the single vineyard of the same name beguiles with its light ruby red colour and subtle scent of dark cherries, followed on the palate by redcurrant, hints of tar, suede and a well-measured amount of Amarena cherry. Salty-mineralic, never-ending finish. Highly elegant in its entirety and packaged with COS's own noble restraint. Burgundian greatness and a beacon of the Vittoria DOC appellation! SUPERIORE.DE

When Giulio Ferrari vinified his first bottles of spumante in Via Belentani in 1902, he dreamed of an Italian sparkling wine on a par with French wines. Today, over 120 years later, this dream has long since become a reality – and Ferrari Rosé is living proof of this. The Fratelli Lunelli have taken the founder's legacy to Alpine perfection. This elegant rosé is made from 60% Pinot Nero and 40% Chardonnay in the high altitudes of Trentino. The vineyards stretch across Val d'Adige, Val di Cembra and Valle dei Laghi, all with south-easterly to south-westerly exposures on the mountain slopes. Here, the grapes benefit from the perfect symbiosis between Alpine freshness and Mediterranean warmth. The Metodo Classico vinification strictly follows French models. After gentle pressing, the first fermentation takes place, followed by traditional bottle fermentation with the winery's own yeasts. The Spumante matures on the lees for at least 20 months – time, which gives the rosé its characteristic creaminess and complexity.

Deep, bright ruby red colour. Stunning aromas of floral dark berries, flint and attractive aromatic spices. Then fresh and juicy, but with a creeping concentration of blue and black fruit flavours, lifted by a zesty minerality and lively, harmonious acidity. The spicy, long finish is reminiscent of cloves, black pepper and coriander. A great wine, and we know now at the latest: The Catania family has a real knack for Cerasuolo di Vittoria. SUPERIORE.DE

The Viognier and Chardonnay vines grow on Caiarossa's most calcareous terroir. The grapes are fermented separately in oak barrels, matured on the lees and blended at the end, with little or no racking in order to produce the wine with as little oxygen contact as possible. The result is a precise and clean white wine that, with its beautiful volume, depth and smoothness with fragrant flavours of flowers and almonds, goes well with a delicate and fragrant pesto. SUPERIORE.DE

Stoan has a spicy and floral aroma of ginger, crushed apples, savoury herbs and wet slate. It feels soothingly silky yet upbeat, focusing on ripe orchard fruits, along with a subtle hint of candied citrus for contrast. The palate remains crisp and clean with nuances of grapefruit and lime that linger. Firm pressure on the final, savoury. SUPERIORE.DE

As always, the Cerviolo is excellent: concentrated, with the aroma of red cherry, sweet tobacco, walnut and wild mushroom. Silky and multi-layered on the palate, with balsamic and spicy notes, dense and soft, with absolutely harmonious tannins. A marvellous wine! SUPERIORE.DE

With around two grams of residual sugar, this high-quality spumante from the Alta Langa, which was produced using the champagne method, is a particularly dry representative of its kind. The Chardonnay grapes come from clay and limestone terroir around 450 metres above sea level in the small municipality of Neviglie. Fresh and floral on the nose with beautiful citrus and subtle yeast notes. Fine perlage, harmonious on the palate with a fine creaminess and a multi-layered finish. SUPERIORE.DE

A true champion is the Lodano, an unusual cuvée of Chardonnay with Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Powerful, dense and soft with flavours of stone fruit, apricot, honey and candied orange peel. Then it moves on to delicate mineral nuances with crushed granite and shells. Excellent length, depth and floral freshness. The cleansing acidity comes through at the end with attractive brightness. This exceptional and sophisticated white perfectly embodies Stefano Frascolla's excellent signature. SUPERIORE.DE

In the Val di Noto, where the lime-white bagli of Tenuta Zisola are enthroned between almond trees and olive groves, one of the most extraordinary tributes to the history of the Mazzei family is being created. Effe Emme – two letters sewn into a customised wine like precious initials, bear the name of one of the most fascinating pioneers of modern times: Filippo Mazzei. On the limestone-rich soils of Noto, at an altitude of 130 metres in a south-easterly exposure, the unique characteristics of the terroir meet a rare grape variety: Petit Verdot in absolute purity. This French variety, which has found a new home here in the south of Sicily, is hand-picked at the end of September and fermented at 28-30°C, followed by a 14-day maceration. The Effe Emme is matured for around 16 months in 225 Liters French oak barrels.