James Suckling

Lagrein and Gries belong together like Nebbiolo and Barolo. The Bolzano district of Gries is the ancestral home of this indigenous South Tyrolean grape variety – first mentioned in writing in 1379, and since then hardly anywhere else as convincing as here. Rudi Kofler puts it in a nutshell: "The alluvial soils of Gries are ideal for Lagrein. Because the Gries terroir is unlike anything else in Terlan. No steep slopes, no porphyry rock – but flat, post-glacial alluvial soil in the sunny Bolzano valley basin, where the Adige, Eisack and Talfer rivers meet and summer temperatures of up to 40 degrees are not uncommon. Loamy-sandy soils, lime-free, brooding. A terroir that gives Lagrein warmth and ripeness without taking away its tension. Hand-picked, destemming, slow maceration in steel, malolactic fermentation – then 12 months of ageing: half in large wooden barrels and half in barriques, one third of which is new. Precision meets depth.

Stoan has a spicy and floral aroma of ginger, crushed apples, savoury herbs and wet slate. It feels soothingly silky yet upbeat, focusing on ripe orchard fruits, along with a subtle hint of candied citrus for contrast. The palate remains crisp and clean with nuances of grapefruit and lime that linger. Firm pressure on the final, savoury. SUPERIORE.DE

High up on the southern slopes of Mount Etna, where the Contrada Manzuedda in Biancavilla rises 900 metres into the sky, lies an extraordinary vineyard, as old as the dreams that gave birth to it. Here, between the eternal snow of the peaks and the flames of the volcano, where the first Carricante vines sank their roots into the volcanic earth in 1950, A' Puddara, "the hen", is born. This is what the Sicilians call the Pleiades in dialect, the seven sisters in the firmament that shine from the sea above the volcanic peak in summer. Silvia Maestrelli, the visionary pioneer of Fessina who sadly died far too early, dedicated the starry sky of her Sicilian nights to this wine, a fitting tribute to this island of dreams and fire.

Chiaro di Bolle epitomises Il Borro's bold answer to the question of what Sangiovese is capable of as a sparkling wine – a Tuscan Metodo Classico that redefines the traditional boundaries of the grape variety. As a Blanc de Noir made from 100% Sangiovese, this exceptional sparkling wine fits perfectly into the winery's many years of experimentation with the queen of Tuscan grape varieties and impressively demonstrates the versatility of this terroir-influenced Sangiovese. Vinified according to the classic metodo tradizionale, Chiaro di Bolle undergoes traditional bottle fermentation, which gives Sangiovese a completely new dimension. The organically farmed grapes from Valdarno di Sopra bring their characteristic minerality and freshness, while the careful cellar work transforms the natural elegance of the grape variety into a sparkling lightness.

The Moscato Giallo is dry and matured for 5 months on the fine lees and has a golden yellow colour. It is an aromatic wine, with notes of citrus fruits, white peaches, lemon balm and elderberry, combined with a hint of nutmeg and sweet spices. The lively acidity and discreet mineral structure give this wine an excellent freshness and pleasant style. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for this high-calibre Valpolicella Classico Superiore come from the rather barren, calcareous and terraced vineyards of Tenuta Novare above the Ognisanti church. Wines of greater complexity, perfect structure and higher concentration are produced here than in most other vineyards in Valpolicella. Sparkling ruby-garnet colour. Fragrant nose with wonderful overtones of sour cherry, dried flowers and white pepper. Perfectly balanced on the palate with firm tannins and wonderful spice and depth of fruit thanks to the ageing in wood. A superior, winning wine from the heart of the Valpolicella region. SUPERIORE.DE

Roero Arneis is also known as Barolo Bianco, which is entirely true for this excellent white wine from Neve's noble forge. Bruna Giacosa's Arneis in particular is a great example of a Roero wine that surpasses the normality of the appellation by far and at the same time has a great sense of inner freshness and complexity.

Pinot Noir is the most demanding grape variety in the world. It forgives nothing – no wrong soil, no climate that is too warm, no impatient hand in the cellar. It has found its place in Terlan: Since the middle of the 19th century, Pinot Noir has thrived in the medium-high sites of the Monticol zone, at 450–760 metres, on light porphyry weathered soils, where even in midsummer, downdraughts provide cooling.

The name alone conjures up images: La Luna e i Falò – "The moon and the fires". An allusion to Cesare Pavese's novel of the same name, a reflection of a deep-rooted love of one's homeland, melancholic and powerful at the same time. And so is this Barbera from the heart of the Nizza region – deep in the Monferrato – is not just a pleasant wine, but an expression of inner density and grown identity. The grapes come from old vineyards around Agliano Terme, with poor, calcareous soils and optimal south to south-west exposure. After a long maceration period, the wine is aged for 18 months in French barriques, followed by further maturation in the bottle. A Riserva with format, precision and the necessary breath.

In the Val di Noto, where the lime-white bagli of Tenuta Zisola are enthroned between almond trees and olive groves, one of the most extraordinary tributes to the history of the Mazzei family is being created. Effe Emme – two letters sewn into a customised wine like precious initials, bear the name of one of the most fascinating pioneers of modern times: Filippo Mazzei. On the limestone-rich soils of Noto, at an altitude of 130 metres in a south-easterly exposure, the unique characteristics of the terroir meet a rare grape variety: Petit Verdot in absolute purity. This French variety, which has found a new home here in the south of Sicily, is hand-picked at the end of September and fermented at 28-30°C, followed by a 14-day maceration. The Effe Emme is matured for around 16 months in 225 Liters French oak barrels.

The grapes for Franz Haas' Petit Manseng remain on the vines for an extra week to ripen. After fermentation, the wine is matured for 10 months in used barriques. Strong straw yellow colour. Highly aromatic, intense bouquet of dried fruit, traces of honey and a subtle minerality. Complex on the palate, very well structured, with a creamy texture and wonderfully mild acidity and subtle freshness. Very long finish and good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Behind Noà is Cusumano's vision of a Sicilian red wine of international calibre, rooted in the barren highlands of Presti e Pegni near Monreale. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Nero d'Avola thrive on calcareous, stony soils at an altitude of around 300 metres – a place where the heat of the day and the coolness of the night allow a precise interplay of ripeness and freshness. In the glass, Noà is a dark ruby colour with violet hues. The bouquet reveals a complex composition of ripe blackcurrants, sour cherries, blackberries and dried plums, underpinned by notes of espresso, cedar wood, tobacco and dark cocoa. Powerful and structured on the palate with velvety tannins, a supple texture and the characteristic depth that comes from the volcanic terroir and the barrique-aged composition. The final is long, with hints of liquorice, herbs and mineral spice.

Impressive Riserva from high-altitude vineyards, where Montepulciano produces ripe and expressive grapes despite the Alpine altitude. The 2020 vintage was characterised by warm days, cool nights and healthy ripeness - ideal conditions for a structured Riserva with depth. After classic mash fermentation, the wine matured for around 18 months in large wooden barrels and then in steel to gain strength and retain freshness. Dense ruby colour with a strong core in the glass. The nose reveals aromas of blackberry, blackcurrant, some plum and sweet spicy notes such as liquorice, tobacco and dark chocolate. The tannin is present and fine-meshed, the acidity clear and invigorating. On the palate, the wine is powerful but not broad - with Mediterranean flavours, mineral depth and a long, spicy finish. A self-confident Montepulciano that speaks of its origins and has a lot of style: structured, dense and yet with elegant guidance - a Riserva with charisma and harmony. SUPERIORE.DE

The elegant blend of Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Merlot surprises with its aroma full of purity and intensely aromatic fruit flavour. Elegance and finesse trump muscle in Turpino, a wine that is always light on its feet. Fermentation in wooden barrels and ageing in barriques lend the spicy, balsamic notes of the grape blend a softness, a fine frame and a beguilingly long finish on the palate. With its tangy acidity balancing the ripe fruit, Turpino manages to be generous and restrained at the same time, making it a great accompaniment to Mediterranean meat dishes. SUPERIORE.DE

Pelago is a tribute to the harmonious combination of classic Marche flavours with international influences. The cuvée of Montepulciano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot brings together the best of the region in a finely structured red wine. The grapes are harvested by hand and placed in stainless steel tanks for controlled fermentation before the wine matures for 14 months in Liters barriques and then develops for a further twelve months in the bottle.

La Fabriseria comes across as an elegant, medium-bodied Amarone. Its intensity, tannin structure and density are hard to beat in this price range. Very juicy on the palate, full-bodied and soft, with notes of cherries, cardamom and cloves. And always with the elegant seriousness of the Tedeschi family's great flagship of the same name. SUPERIORE.DE

Tramin gave Gewürztraminer its name – and the world has since associated it with lush rose flavours, lychee and a body that likes to be heavy. Martin Foradori-Hofstätter thinks differently. With Vigna Castel Rechtenthal, he shows what this variety can do when the location is right and the winemaker does not stand in its way. The vineyard plot is located on a gravelly hill above Rechtenthal Castle, at the foot of Monte Roen – the highest peak in Tramin at 2,116 metres. The soil is an alluvial cone of dolomite gravel: permeable, cool and mineralised. The Höllentalbach stream intensifies the already fresh downdraughts that blow down from the mountain and significantly lower the temperatures at night. No other Gewürztraminer Tramin grows under such conditions.

Villa Gresti is an exciting cuvée of Merlot and Carménère that represents a very nice balance between fruit intensity, spice, ripe cherry and sweet tobacco. Medium-bodied on the palate, with a softness and a very attractive, drinkystyle and a rich, fruit-accentuated finish. Classic Bordeaux style. SUPERIORE.DE