Doctor Wine

"The best of the best - you don't drink this wine every day. It needs attention, time to mature and likes to play the leading role: as the crowning glory of a festive table or even as a proud solitaire." Michael Graf Goëss-Enzenberg, Weingut Manincor

When Paolo Panerai realised his vision of a great Tuscan red wine made exclusively from indigenous grape varieties at the end of the 1970s, hardly anyone suspected that this wine would make history. As early as 1988, the Wine Spectator catapulted it into the international wine elite with sixth place in its first Top 100 – a triumph for a Supertuscan that deliberately eschewed Cabernet and Merlot in favour of the genetic purity of Tuscan vines. The name itself tells of the terroir: "Sodi" is what Tuscan winegrowers call those hard, stony soils that were too heavy for teams of oxen and had to be laboriously worked by hand. Here, on calcareous Galestro soils between 350 and 400 metres above sea level, around the medieval church of San Niccolò, the vines fight for every drop of water – 85 per cent Sangioveto, the original, small-berried form of Sangiovese, and 15 per cent Malvasia Nera, an almost forgotten grape variety – an almost forgotten grape variety that was abandoned in many places due to its low yields – result in a cuvée of unnerving power and unmistakable race. The 2021 vintage perfectly embodies this philosophy: After 18 to 25 days of maceration in steel tanks, the wine matures for up to 30 months in barriques, two thirds of which in new wood, before resting for a further twelve months in the bottle.

The first Caggiole came onto the market in 1988 and disappeared again in 1995 because the flagship Asinone simply met the tastes of consumers better at the time. Today - after an absence of over 20 years - the Nobile Le Caggiole is back on the market as the estate's new first wine. Estate owner Dott. Federico Carletti has dedicated this masterpiece to his wife Anna - setting a new benchmark for Poliziano and the entire denomination. We are delighted to be able to present this strictly limited top wine!

Some vineyards carry their history within them like annual rings in an old tree. Vigna 10 on the Brancaia hill near Castellina is such a place. When Brigitte and Bruno Widmer bought the abandoned estate in 1981, they immediately recognised the potential of this plot of land – a gentle south-facing slope at 230 metres, clay soils that retain water and an exposure that allows the Sangiovese to reach full maturity without overtaxing it. Eighteen years later, in 1999, the vineyard was replanted – not with just any clones, but with five of the most promising Sangiovese selections from the ambitious "Chianti Classico 2000" research project, which has been researching and preserving the genetic diversity of this grape variety since the 1980s.

The grapes come from the historic MGA Bussia in Monforte d'Alba – steep, well-ventilated slopes between 300 and 450 metres, characterised by calcareous marl with clay veins and sandy inclusions. The year 2020 brought a stable summer without extreme peaks, clear nights during the ripening phase and a calm, dry autumn allowed for a late, precise harvest. The result is healthy, fully ripe phenolic grapes with bright fruit and balanced acidity – the ideal basis for a transparent yet powerful Barolo.

"The Barolo DOCG Margheria comes from the calcareous soil with a slightly higher proportion of sand than in our other sub-areas, which has a strong influence on its character. It was produced for the first time in 1985 and has great ageing potential. The grapes come from our vineyard in the MGA Margheria in Serralunga d'Alba." Franco Massolino

Cerretto is a fruit-driven wine of virile, explosive power that shows, among other things, how different the wines of Serralunga can be. Black cherry, plum, sage, menthol and liquorice hit the palate in a firm, tannic Barolo that will require some patience, but already presents itself with remarkable freshness, purity and nuance. Cerretta is the embodiment of the richness and structure of Serralunga. SUPERIORE.DE

"For the Barolo DOCG Parussi, we left the confines of Serralunga and opted for a vineyard in Castiglione Falletto. Thanks to the characteristics of Nebbiolo, which is perfectly capable of capturing the differences in microclimate and soil composition and translating them into sensations, the result amazed us. Structured, important, austere. Made with Nebbiolo grapes from our vineyard in the MGA Parussi in Castiglione Falletto." Franco Massolino

2006 was the year in which Franco and Roberto Massolino had the courage to leave the confines of Serralunga. Parussi – a vineyard in Castiglione Falletto, one and a half hectares at an altitude of 290 metres, situated on the crest of a hill where the vines fluctuate between south-east and south-west. A challenge. Because anyone who has spent a lifetime studying the calcareous soils of Serralunga has to rethink things in Castiglione: there is less lime here, but more clay and magnesium. Richer soils. More energetic vines. A different terroir – and the Nebbiolo, this sensitive grape variety, translates every nuance into sensation.

In the seventies, Giovanni Massolino bought Parafada – a coup that he dared to pull off at a time when the economic situation was anything but rosy. But Giovanni was the kind of person who favours vision over caution. The site, whose name comes from the hamlet of the same name, lies 320 metres above sea level in that famous amphitheatre between Lazzarito and Gabutti, perfectly exposed to the south. A ridge location that offers natural protection from wind and storms – as if nature itself had understood that something special should grow here.

There are words that tell more than entire stories. Sgarzon: In the ancient dialect of Campo Rotaliano, it means "young shoot", "sapling" and embodies the essence of youthful vitality and the impetuous vigour of new beginnings. This name is the programme for a Teroldego that revolutionises conventional ideas about this powerful grape variety. Just one kilometre from the famous Morei vineyard as the crow flies, but completely different in character, is the 2.5-hectare Sgarzon vineyard. Here, the Noce River has deposited sandy sediments over thousands of years, creating a cooler, more open microzone. While other Teroldego vineyards are already harvesting their grapes, the Sgarzon berries ripen a week longer – a decisive difference that gives this wine its exceptional finesse.

Between light and shade, between strength and elegance, sometimes only a few hundred metres decide the character of a wine. Less than ten minutes' walk from Sgarzon, but geologically in a different world, lies Morei, "the dark one" in the old Trentino dialect. Here, on the warmer, rockier terrain of Campo Rotaliano, Elisabetta Foradori has been writing another exciting chapter in the Teroldego story since 1984. The name says it all: where Sgarzon embodies youthful freshness, Morei reveals the deep, mineral soul of this extraordinary grape variety. The 2.5-hectare plot rests on the ancient riverbed of the Noce, where thousands of years of erosion have left behind a mosaic of pebbles, sand and dolomite rock. This stony matrix stores the heat of the dolomite sun and releases it to the vines at night – a natural heat reservoir that gives Teroldego its characteristic depth and concentration.

Pinot Noir at high alpine altitudes – a risk that few take and even fewer master. Markus Prackwieser is one of those rare winemakers who breathe South Tyrolean mountain flavour into the Burgundian temperament of this capricious grape variety. His Renaissance Pinot Nero Riserva is more than just a wine – it is the interaction of soil, microclimate and winegrower, manifested in liquid form. And as with all Renaissance wines, it is only in special years, when the terroir reveals its greatest personality, that this wine is allowed to impress with its very own identity after long ageing in barriques. The grapes come from the highest plots of the Gump Hof, where Pinot Noir grows at 500 to 550 metres on calcareous moraines over quartz porphyry. The vinification follows Burgundian principles with alpine consistency: one week of cold maceration, followed by two weeks of fermentation and maceration in stainless steel tanks – forty per cent whole-cluster fermentation, the sophisticated technique that produces floral notes, spice and silky tannins. This is followed by eighteen months in barriques, half in new barrels, with malolactic fermentation. After blending, the wines mature for a further five months in large wooden barrels before at least one year of bottle ageing completes their development.

When Giovanni Massolino founded his winery in Serralunga d'Alba in 1896, he was the first to bring electric light to the village. A pioneer. His grandson Giuseppe, co-founder of the legendary Barolo consortium, continued this tradition – and then came the third generation, Giovanni, Camilla and Renato: they wrote a new chapter in 1985 by bottling Margheria separately for the first time. Today, the brothers Franco and Roberto continue the legacy. Both Oenologistwho understand that great wines are not made, but born. Margheria is located on the western edge of Serralunga's famous ridge, just a stone's throw away from the mythical Vigna Rionda – and yet it is its exact opposite. Where Vigna Rionda promises strength and eternity with its calcareous marl, the Margheria site at 280 metres above sea level plays with a higher admixture of sand in the limestone soil. The result: elegance meets structure, floral notes meet mineral depth. Serralunga shows its accessible side here without sacrificing its typical longevity.

Batàr is undoubtedly reminiscent of Burgundy, but with unmistakable Tuscan authenticity. Vintage after vintage, Querciabella's forward-thinking winemaking has evolved beyond the hedonistic idea of growing foreign, albeit noble, white grapes in a stronghold of red wines to focus on expressing a particular sense of place. The Batàr's inherent vitality and classic minerality clearly come from the high-altitude vineyards of Ruffoli and the Galestro soils typical of the best sites in Chianti Classico.

If only it were true. Angelo Gaja's Tuscan masterpiece Magari bears this Italian expression full of longing and hope in its name, and it tells the story of a dream that became reality. When the Piedmontese patriarch first explored the Maremma coast in the 1990s, he saw the potential for something extraordinary in the gentle hills of Bolgheri. Eighteen rounds of negotiations were necessary to acquire the Ca' Marcanda estate – "the house of endless negotiations", as it has been known ever since.

Just 2,100 bottles of this 1.5 ha single vineyard Cabernet Franc "Campo di Magnacosta" (a former riverbed with mainly clay, gravel and crushed stone soil) reach the specialised trade and the menus of the best restaurants worldwide. The vines were planted in the mid-1990s and come from Pomerol. In terms of aromatic intensity, Magnacosta is probably the most sensually elegant representative of the house's three great site cabernets. It has great straightness, but somewhat less power and intensity. It subtly combines black fruit aromas with spicy notes, tar and antique leather. It is already silky and elegant and will certainly gain in finesse over the years. SUPERIORE.DE

Chiara's Barolo from the Mosconi single vineyard of the same name is powerful, muscular and full of opulence. Rich, bright ruby red colour. Rich aromas of eucalyptus, wild rosemary, plum and black cherry. Deep and powerful on the palate with beautiful spicy accents, dense tannins and a very juicy structure. For us, this Barolo belongs in the top class of the appellation, it always carries its great weight with maximum elegance and is highly authentic, completely in the style of Chiara Boschis, who has once again delivered something really great here. Please leave it in the cellar for a few more years! SUPERIORE.DE

Terra di Lavoro 2021 is still far too young to make a final judgement, but this much is already clear: with sufficient aeration, it continues to develop rapidly and offers new, wonderful impressions with every new sip.

In the heart of the Valdarno Superiore, where the ancient Via dei Setteponti inspired Leonardo da Vinci's immortal landscape studies, lies the Tenuta Sette Ponti – named after the seven bridges that have connected Arezzo and Florence since Etruscan times. Here, on 300 hectares between history and modernity, Dr Antonio Moretti Cuseri realised a visionary idea in 1999: to create a Tuscan Bordeaux style that combines international elegance with the soul of Tuscany. Oreno – named after the small river that crosses the tenuta in the clay-rich zone where the Merlot vines take deepest root – was born out of a passion for Bordeaux finesse. Moretti Cuseri, fascinated by his travels to Bordeaux, had existing vineyards grafted with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. While Merlot thrives in the clay soils, Cabernet vines find their home in gravelled terraces that offer perfect drainage and natural temperature regulation. The Petit Verdot completes the cuvée with spicy notes and intense flavours.

The Rosso di Montalcino comes from slightly younger Brunello vines and is matured for 12 months in large oak barrels. It undoubtedly bears the signature of the top winery Biondi Santi: delicately sweet, open flavours of red berries, flowers and cloves. Like all of the winery's other wines, the Rosso is classic and firm in style, with a bombastic structure and a brilliant, long finish. True to the house, it also has a long ageing and maturation potential and can compete with some of the Brunello wines of the appellation today and in the future. SUPERIORE.DE

The historic Cerretta cru vineyard is located just north of the village of Serralunga d'Alba and is considered one of the most complex parcels in the appellation. The slopes are exposed to the south-west and west, giving the vines both long hours of sunshine and cooling evening breezes. The soils consist of a characteristic mixture of calcareous marl, clay and fine veins of sand – a constellation that gives the Nebbiolo here its unmistakable balance of power, elegance and aromatic depth. The 2021 vintage brought perfect conditions with cool nights, clear autumn days and a harmonious ripening curve. The grapes were harvest exclusively by hand, followed by traditional maceration and around 32 months of ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels, which allow the character of the vineyard to shine through clearly.

Terre Alte is a masterpiece of Friulian white wine artistry – a wine that has been setting standards since its first cuvée in 1981. The combination of Friulano, Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon from the best vineyards around Rosazzo is condensed here into a vinological ideal of the Collio.

Barolo Cerretta is a dense, concentrated and energetic expression of Nebbiolo. Red and purple fruit flavours of cassis, dried cranberries and cherries set beautiful accents, but there is also plenty of room for the equally beautiful aromas of liquorice, campfire ash and candied orange peel that play such a deft supporting role. On the palate, it is a brilliant, polished wine with enough tannin to allow it to mature in the cellar for another 10 or 20 years. SUPERIORE.DE