Barbaresco

In Piedmont, "Costa" is the name given to the side of a hill that faces the sun. "Russi" was the nickname of the tenant who once farmed this vineyard – a man whose real name has long been forgotten, but lives on on every label. When Angelo Gaja acquired the plot in 1967, he probably sensed that something special lay dormant here. Eleven years later, in 1978, he bottled the first Costa Russi as a single vineyard. Since then, the 4.35-hectare vineyard has taken its place in the triumvirate of legendary Gaja crus – alongside the powerful Sorì San Lorenzo and the mineral Sorì Tildìn. But Costa Russi plays a different tune: where the brothers offer muscle and tension, it responds with grace and fragrance. The south-west exposure at 230 metres above sea level, directly below Sorì Tildìn, gives the Nebbiolo the warmth that makes it soft and inviting without ever losing its structure. After three weeks of maceration and twenty-four months in oak – first in barriques, then in large barrels – the 2022 shows what Costa Russi is all about.

Roagna's Barbaresco Pajè Vecchie Viti opens with a bright garnet-red colour and a deep, shiny glow. The fruit of old vines manages to reach the impossible point between power and elegance. The wine shows a delicate and bright bouquet, but also a compact fruit and a long finish. You can feel this extra fullness on the finish. The production is around 2,500 bottles. SUPERIORE.DE

Roagna's Barbaresco Pajè Vecchie Viti opens with a bright garnet-red colour and a deep, shiny glow. The fruit of old vines manages to reach the impossible point between power and elegance. The wine shows a delicate and bright bouquet, but also a compact fruit and a long finish. You can feel this extra fullness on the finish. The production is around 2,500 bottles. SUPERIORE.DE

This breathtaking Barbaresco (total production approx. 1,300 bottles) shows more power and intensity than you would normally find in a Barbaresco. It opens with heady aromas of wild berries, new leather, undergrowth and menthol. On the palate, it shows ripe black raspberries, juicy cherries and liquorice before finishing on a tobacco note. It is still youthfully nervous and somewhat austere, it still needs some time to develop fully. SUPERIORE.DE

Angelo Gaja's 2021 Barbaresco is a wine with poise and grace that has a lot to offer. Expressive spicy and floral notes are the first to open up, but what really stands out is the wine's nuance and delineation. The transparency is unmistakable. Sweet red cherries, mint, cinnamon and rose petals develop in the glass and add further nuances. The flavour is balanced and spicy, the tannins firm and the finish precise and long. This muscular monument of a red wine definitely needs a few more years of bottle ageing, with a little patience it will transform into pure elegance. Put simply, the 2021 is one of the best Gaja Barbarescos of recent times. SUPERIORE.DE

When Luca Roagna guides guests through his wines, he serves them last. Not by chance, not out of dramaturgy – but because nothing else can come after the Pajè Vecchie Viti. The greatest tannin structure, he says, needs the last word. The vines from which this Barbaresco is made are 80-90 years old. This is not a marketing term – "Vecchie Viti" does not recognise the law –but the simple truth. During these decades, the roots have learnt to dig through countless layers of calcareous marl, drawing water and minerals from depths that remain closed to younger plants. What they send up is more concentrated, more complex and unrepeatable. 2,000-3,000 bottles are produced annually from this selection in the amphitheatre of Pajè. The upper part of the vineyard, where the mineral signature is strongest, goes into the Crichet Pajé – the Vecchie Viti is produced down here. It matures for five years in large wooden barrels and concrete before leaving the winery.

Some vineyards are bought. Some are inherited. This one was gambled away. In 1961, a 0.22-hectare plot in the heart of Asili changed hands – the previous owner, so the story goes, was exceptionally unlucky at cards. Giovanni Roagna had the better hand. Or the better fate. The Piedmontese called this location "Asei" in the dialect – one of the historic vineyards south of the village of Barbaresco. The plot is located exactly in the centre of the hill, where Luca Roagna locates the "most classic" part of the crus. The soil is characterised by calcareous marl interspersed with veins of reddish-yellow sand. The vines, now at least 80 years old, are not cared for – they are left alone. Wild grasses cover the ground, Luca does not plough, the permaculture remains untouched.

A dowry changed everything back then. In 1929, a triangular piece of land changed hands – not by purchase, but by marriage. Montefico has belonged to the Roagna family ever since, longer than any other vineyard in the portfolio. Almost a century later, this quarter of a hectare is still the most intimate chapter in its history. "Mont der fi" is what the Piedmontese dialect calls this location – the mountain over there, towards Neive. The small triangle lies exactly in the middle of the amphitheatre, at 230 metres, with a view of the neighbouring village. The soils of calcareous marl with a high proportion of active limestone are among the oldest in Barbaresco – seventy million years of marine sedimentation. The vines, all over 50 years old, are deeply rooted in this history. Of the four Vecchie Viti of the family, Montefico is the most intensely flavoured.

There are wines that define regions. Gaja's Barbaresco is one of them. It has been produced since 1859, over five generations, and in all these decades it has remained what it always was: the calling card, the brand ambassador, the essence of what Barbaresco means. While the single-vineyard wines – sorì San Lorenzo, Sorì Tildìn, Costa Russi – show virtuosity, it is this classic Barbaresco that captures the soul of the terroir. It is the sum of fourteen vineyards spread across the municipalities of Barbaresco and Treiso, each parcel a mosaic stone in the big picture.

Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn is a fabulous, incredibly complete wine that rises from the glass with an explosive structure and vertical lift. The tannins are very present, but also beautifully matched by the aromatic intensity and overall drive of the wine. Dark macerated cherry, spice, leather, liquorice, plum and mocha add darker nuances. All elements are impeccably balanced. It is quite simply a majestic wine of true greatness and absolute class, but it is not obvious. The true essence of Nebbiolo! SUPERIORE.DE

Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo 2020 is a wine for the ages, which needs 10 to 15 years in the bottle to really mature. Sorì San Lorenzo is often a great, virile wine. The 2020 has a lot of power, but at the same time you also find refinement and certain nuances that Sorì San Lorenzo has rarely, if ever, shown. Black cherry, cloves, menthol, liquorice, gravel and incense are just some of the many aromas and flavours that meld together in this dramatic and dramatically beautiful Barbaresco from the Gaja family. Sorì San Lorenzo 2020 literally explodes on the finish with an abundance of mouth watering aromas, flavours and textures. An outrageously beautiful, vibrant wine with real gravitas and power. SUPERIORE.DE

While the Barbaresco Costa Russi expresses itself more discreetly with purity and grace, the Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo struts in the front row. It has a firmer texture and is not as timid or restrained as the Costa Russi. The Sorì San Lorenzo site is closest to the warm air currents that flow down the Tanaro river valley, and this vineyard site is always the first to ripen and be harvested. A stronger mineral note can be found here, with iron rust, pencil shavings and potting soil mingling with the primary fruit, revealing an astonishing complexity and depth. SUPERIORE.DE

"Transparent ruby red with a crimson fading rim. Spicy notes of cloves, allspice, mace and pepper mingle with cherries, bay and raspberry jelly, currant leaves and floral top notes of orange blossom complete the delight. On the palate, Crichët Pajé presents itself with great calm in a steady flow. Nothing is brash or exuberant here, but shines with distinguished elegance - an equilibrium in perfect balance. The aromatically exuberant nose is disciplined on the palate by the long, calm flow of focused, cool acidity, on whose shores fully ripe and fine-grained tannins entwine. Silky with an almost aristocratic nobility, its enormous complexity is revealed in the second sip when the flavors begin to unravel in the epic finish like a massive Win-Zip file. A wine for today, for tomorrow and for many, many more years to come. Undisputedly world class." Sebastian Bordthäuser (Sommelier und Wein-Journalist)

"Transparent ruby red with a crimson rim. Spicy notes of cloves, allspice, mace and pepper mingle with cherries, laurel and raspberry jelly, currant leaves and floral top notes of orange blossom complete the delight. On the palate, Crichët Pajé presents itself with great calm in a steady flow. Nothing is cheeky or exuberant here, but shines with distinguished elegance - an equilibrium in perfect balance. The aromatically exuberant nose is disciplined on the palate by the long, calm flow of the focussed, cool acidity, on whose shores fully ripe and fine-grained tannins entwine. Silky with an almost aristocratic nobility, its enormous complexity is revealed in the second sip, when the flavours begin to unfold in the epic finish like a massive Win-Zip file. A wine for today, for tomorrow and for many, many years to come. Undisputed world class." Sebastian Bordthäuser (Sommelier und Wein-Journalist)

Rabaja and Asili are probably the most famous sites in Barbaresco. Medium, finely fragrant nose of rose petals, cherries and blue blossoms, with restrained ethereal herbal notes. On the palate, powerful, compact and with a well-proportioned cornucopia of black fruits such as blackberry and cassis, plus some liquorice. As the wine progresses, it shows its power and a certain pressure, which, however, never comes across as wild or ostentatious, but always reflects the elegance of the site and the Giacosa-typical ageing in large wood. Impressive aroma and length! SUPERIORE.DE

In 2020, the single vineyard Asili was chosen for the Barbaresco Riserva in its characteristic red colour, which will come as no surprise to Giacosa connoisseurs. Just 10,000 bottles of what is probably the best Giacosa vineyard are only released as Riserva in outstanding years. Asili 2020 shows a seamless integration of wild fruits, blue flowers, spices, balsamic herbs and liquorice. Its true class is revealed on the palate: structure, dimension, intensity and depth leave nothing to be desired; this vintage is probably one of the best wines we have ever tasted from Bruno Giacosa. There is only one flaw with this highly dramatic growth: anyone who wants to enjoy this wine with all its facets and components should be patient for at least another 10 years. SUPERIORE.DE

Crichët Pajé 2015 is one of the most captivating and striking wines anyone can discover in Piedmont. It possesses a ripe, savoury style with a fruit profile that tends towards cherry and plum compote flavours, accented by coffee, soy, tar and mineral notes, all supported by a dense layer of massive tannins. Despite the ripe fruit profile, this wine is surprisingly fresh on the finish and has excellent length. This still young wine should age for decades. SUPERIORE.DE

The magnificent Asili 2022 opens with a dark, compact appearance and displays an impressive level of aromatic intensity and complexity. On the nose, tantalising aromas of cherry, strawberry, eucalyptus, plus a hint of orange peel, rose petals and pine wood. Full to medium-bodied on the palate, with crushed raspberries, juicy red cherries, cinnamon and chopped herbs. The fresh acidity and exquisite tannins provide a bright and extremely elegant backdrop. This wine continues to surpass itself with every glass, its great class is already undisputed! SUPERIORE.DE

A Barbaresco that visualises freshness, clarity and origin in a masterful balance: The 2020 vintage shines in a bright ruby colour with a lively shimmer – an instant promise of elegance. It combines the styles of 14 selected cru sites from the Barbaresco region, each with its own character and ageing potential. The nose is delicate and complex: red cherry, raspberry, subtle floral notes and herbal spice, accompanied by the scent of roses and a slightly menthol-like freshness. Behind this, a mineral tension emerges, finely balanced and playful. On the palate, this Barbaresco presents itself with vital freshness and polished fruit. Fine-grained tannins lend structure without harshness; the acidity is present but always elegantly integrated – it gives the wine its vigour. The finish is dry, mineral and with a delicate, balsamic note that lingers for a long time. With its balanced transparency, this Barbaresco symbolises a modern interpretation of the region – clear, fine and expressive. SUPERIORE.DE

Every year, Crichët Pajé is one of the most captivating and striking wines you will ever discover in Piedmont. It has a ripe, savoury style with a fruit profile that tends towards cherry and plum compote flavours, accented by coffee, soy, tar and mineral notes, all supported by a dense layer of massive tannins. Despite the ripe fruit profile, this wine is surprisingly fresh on the finish and has excellent length. This still young wine should age for decades. SUPERIORE.DE

Angelo Gaja's 2021 Barbaresco is a wine with poise and grace that has a lot to offer. Expressive spicy and floral notes are the first to open up, but what really stands out is the wine's nuance and delineation. The transparency is unmistakable. Sweet red cherries, mint, cinnamon and rose petals develop in the glass and add further nuances. The flavour is balanced and spicy, the tannins firm and the finish precise and long. This muscular monument of a red wine definitely needs a few more years of bottle ageing, with a little patience it will transform into pure elegance. Put simply, the 2021 is one of the best Gaja Barbarescos of recent times. SUPERIORE.DE

There are wines that define regions. Gaja's Barbaresco is one of them. It has been produced since 1859, over five generations, and in all these decades it has remained what it always was: the calling card, the brand ambassador, the essence of what Barbaresco means. While the single-vineyard wines – sorì San Lorenzo, Sorì Tildìn, Costa Russi – show virtuosity, it is this classic Barbaresco that captures the soul of the terroir. It is the sum of fourteen vineyards spread across the municipalities of Barbaresco and Treiso, each parcel a mosaic stone in the big picture.

"Transparent ruby red with a chimney red fading rim. Spicy notes of cloves, allspice, mace and pepper mingle with cherries, bay and raspberry jelly, currant leaves and floral top notes of orange blossom complete the delight. On the palate, Crichët Pajé presents itself with great calm in a steady flow. Nothing is brash or exuberant here, but shines with distinguished elegance - an equilibrium in perfect balance. The aromatically exuberant nose is disciplined on the palate by the long, calm flow of focused, cool acidity, on whose shores fully ripe and fine-grained tannins entwine. Silky with an almost aristocratic nobility, its enormous complexity is revealed in the second sip when the flavors begin to unravel in the epic finish like a massive Win-Zip file. A wine for today, for tomorrow and for many, many more years to come. Undisputedly world class." Sebastian Bordthäuser (Sommelier und Wein-Journalist)

Rabajà is one of the great vineyards of Barbaresco – a gently sloping south-west-facing slope between the Asili and Martinenga crus, whose calcareous and clayey soils produce wines with unmistakable depth. The 2021 vintage is considered outstanding in Piedmont: a balanced vegetation cycle with warm days, cool nights and ideal harvest conditions produced Nebbiolo grapes of rare aromatic purity and perfect phenolic ripeness. Intense garnet red in the glass with sparkling ruby-coloured reflections. The nose opens with a precise, almost crystalline fruit of sour cherry, ripe raspberry and sloe, surrounded by violets, dried rose petals, fine cedar wood and a minerality reminiscent of graphite. On the palate, the wine is both powerful and silky, with fine, ripe tannins and a present, perfectly integrated acidity that lends freshness and tension. The finish is long, elegant and carried by a saline note that impressively reflects the character of the vineyard. A Barbaresco with great development potential and the typical noblesse of Rabajà. SUPERIORE.DE