Wines from Puglia

Primitivo can be many things – jammy and overloaded, or as here: clear, elegant, with depth. The Counts Zecca vinify this wine from old vines on their Tenuta in the south-west of Salento, where calcareous soils and constant sea breezes keep the grapes healthy and concentrated. Ageing in wooden barrels and cement tanks gives the wine time to mature without bending it. Deep ruby red in the glass with garnet reflections. The bouquet surprises with smoky spice notes, a hint of tobacco and candied fruit – a far cry from the one-dimensional fruit bomb you might expect. The palate reveals a fine texture: mineral notes, silky tannins and an extract sweetness that provides structure rather than masking it. Primitivo for people who want to know what this grape variety is really capable of. SUPERIORE.DE

Deep, dark ruby red with a garnet red centre. The aroma is warm and complex: black cherry, dried plums, a pinch of tobacco and balsamic notes, underpinned by a hint of liquorice and toast. Powerful and well-structured on the palate, with dense tannins and a ripe, almost velvety texture. The ageing in barriques adds depth without overpowering the fruit. Negroamaro in this Riserva form shows its full potential: independent, complex and with elegant maturity. An authentic representative of the DOC Leverano, characterised by the warm climate of Salento and the craftsmanship of Conti Zecca. SUPERIORE.DE

Gregory Perrucci has given Primitivo di Manduria back its dignity. When he founded the Felline winery in 1992, Primitivo was still a mass-produced commodity for tanker exports – cheap blended wine without prestige. Perrucci recognised the potential of the grape variety and began to systematically investigate the terroirs around Manduria. With his Accademia dei Racemi, founded in 1996, he became a pioneer in the valorisation of indigenous Apulian varieties. Today, Felline is considered a reference for Primitivo di Manduria – thanks to its work on different types of soil (terra rossa, white earth, black earth, sand) and its uncompromising focus on quality. This basic Primitivo comes from different plots of the 120 hectares of vineyards, which are organically farmed. Hand-picked, vinified separately according to soil type, matured for six months in French barriques – a classic interpretation of the variety.

A radiant entry-level wine from Salento: Luna presents itself in the glass in a light straw yellow colour with a silvery shimmer. The fresh bouquet is reminiscent of sun-ripened citrus fruits - grapefruit, lime - with green apple spice and a hint of Mediterranean herb blossom. Fresh and elegant on the palate: lively acidity, a fruity punch and a pleasantly salty minerality on the finish. Matured in stainless steel tanks, it remains clear and typical of the variety. An uncomplicated white wine that is youthful and authentic - ideal for light dishes, fish or as a lively accompaniment on warm days. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for Ettamiano are harvested when slightly overripe, a trick that the famous winegrowers' co-operative likes to use with great flair. The variety should show as much of its origin as possible, which is why they rely on short maturation and only use French barriques that have been used several times. Intense ruby red colour with violet reflections. At first sip, Ettamiano is a Primitivo that is characterised by its pleasantness, but at no time does it pander. The glass reveals hints of ripe but lively fruit, spicy notes of cinnamon, then cocoa and liquorice. The flavour is consistent and persistent, supported by a fresh and spicy note that keeps you coming back for more. Long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Giravolta – a name with a history. This was the name of the racehorse that once galloped across the Pozzopalo stud farm and always turned round abruptly in front of the old tuff quarry. This "U-turn" gave the wine its name, but it is the terra bianca, the white earth, that characterises it. While the basic Primitivo comes from the Terra Rossa, the Giravolta grows on calcareous, white soil, created by the breaking up of limestone. The tuffy, stony composition ensures rapid water drainage, but the porous stones also store moisture for the roots.

"Triusco" comes from the estate's oldest plots in the classic DOC zone around Manduria. The Primitivo vines are deeply rooted in red sand/clay soil on a limestone base - ideal conditions for density and aromatic ripeness. The 2022 vintage produced low yields but very concentrated grapes. After temperature-controlled fermentation, the wine matures for six months in barriques and a further four months in stainless steel. Dark ruby red in the glass with a violet tinge. Aromas of ripe blackberry, black cherry, some plum, cinnamon and tobacco. Soft, dense and spicy on the palate, with rich fruit, supple tannins and a warm, lingering final. An expressive Primitivo with structure, elegance and depth. SUPERIORE.DE

The Negroamaro grapes for the extremely delicate Calafuria come from vineyards that stretch along the Adriatic coast in Salento. The region boasts a long tradition of producing rosé wines from Negroamaro, a grape variety that best expresses its potential near the sea. Pale pink in colour, the bouquet has fruity citrus notes of grapefruit and orange blossom with hints of jasmine. Pleasantly fresh on the palate with excellent aromatic persistence and a delicate flavour. SUPERIORE.DE

For over three decades, this Salice Salentino Riserva has been the undisputed flagship of Cantine Due Palme – and a wine that proves year after year that greatness and a co-operative structure need not be a contradiction in terms. The Tre Bicchieri of the Gambero Rosso? For Selvarossa, this has long been a subscription. No other Apulian red wine has won this top award so consistently, and at a price-pleasure ratio that even cuvées four times more expensive regularly fail to achieve. The story of Selvarossa begins shortly after the turn of the millennium, when Angelo Maci – fourth generation of an old winemaking family and founder of Due Palme – realised his vision of uncompromising quality production. What began in 1989 with fifteen members now unites over a thousand winegrowers who together cultivate 2,500 hectares of vineyards in the provinces of Brindisi, Lecce and Taranto. The name Selvarossa – "red forest" – refers to the characteristic red-coloured, clayey soils around Cellino San Marco, rich in minerals, graphite and iron oxides, which give the terroir its unmistakable character.

Under the name Askos, Li Veli summarises a project in which long-forgotten, indigenous grape varieties are rediscovered and cultivated on the ideal terroir selected for them. The red Susumaniello grape is said to originate from the nearby Dalmatian coast and is one of the most exciting grape varieties in Puglia today, even though it is rarely vinified as a single variety.

When the Antinori family founded their Apulian branch Tormaresca in 1998, they set an example: Southern Italy could deliver more than quantity. Torcicoda became proof of this vision – the first wine from Apulia to make it into the Wine Spectator Top 100. Its name refers to the historic grooming tool for horse manes, but also to the lush, twisting growth of the Primitivo vines, which were once called the "vine of three harvests".

An Aglianico from the south of Apulia – unusual in its origin, convincing in its expression. Dark wild berries, black cherry, a little dark chocolate and a hint of tar on the nose, accompanied by spicy nuances and Mediterranean herbs. Structured and powerful on the palate, with firm tannins, well-integrated acidity and a fine mineral vein. The ageing in barriques rounds off the texture without smoothing out the originality. Terra shows how much character Aglianico can also develop outside of its classic homeland: an independent, exciting wine with depth and regional character. SUPERIORE.DE

A Zinfandel with an Italian soul: Terra Nera Primitivo comes from organically farmed plots around Manduria, where old vines are rooted in red soil with limestone veins – a terroir that allows Primitivo (internationally: Zinfandel) to develop to its full potential. Rich purple in the glass with a garnet-red centre. The bouquet is dark, dense and multi-layered: blackcurrant, dried figs, dark chocolate, tobacco leaf, clove and a hint of graphite. Full-bodied on the palate, but not overloaded, with ripe fruit, balanced acidity and finely polished tannins. The use of wood remains discreet, the structure firm and the finish remarkably clear. An expressive, organically produced Primitivo from 60 to 70-year-old vines that skilfully combines power and precision! SUPERIORE.DE

The name reveals the concept: Cinquanta – fifty – stands for the fifty-fifty split between Primitivo and Negroamaro, the two leading grape varieties of Salento. With this cuvée, Cantine San Marzano, founded in 1962 as a winegrowers' cooperative and now one of the largest producers in Apulia with over 1,200 members, has created a wine with an immediate impact. The grapes come from vines of different ages on the iron oxide-rich terra rossa soils of the province of Taranto. After the harvest, maceration takes place at a controlled temperature, followed by twelve months of ageing in wooden barrels.

Il Falcone is a famous Riserva from the heart of the DOCG Castel del Monte, named after the famous hunting falcon of Emperor Frederick II. The Nero di Troia and Montepulciano grape varieties come from the best hillside vineyards at an altitude of 250 to 300 metres. After around 14 months of ageing in large wooden barrels and barriques, it presents a dark ruby colour with garnet-red reflections in the glass. Ripe blackberry, black cherry, tobacco leaf, some leather and balsamic herbs on the nose. Powerful yet finely balanced on the palate, with robust tannins, mineral tension and a spicy, long final. A serious, historic wine with elegance, structure and clear provenance. SUPERIORE.DE

The organically grown Castel del Monte Trentangeli is a "super Apulian" blend of 70% Aglianico, 20% Cabernet and 10% Syrah. A compelling and captivating wine with beautiful tones of damp earth and terracotta, followed by luscious ripe fruit, spices, bacon, blackberry jam, candied plums, rum cake and Indian spices. The wine shows an international flavour with lovely layers of oak that are well integrated. On the final, stately, soft tannins and a considerable length with a fine spicy note. Great! SUPERIORE.DE

F for Falò – bonfire. The name alludes to the traditional bonfires that are lit in Salento at the winter solstice. Cantine San Marzano dedicates a single-varietal Negroamaro to this custom, emphasising the dark, intense side of this indigenous grape variety. The grapes grow on the calcareous, iron oxide-rich soils between San Marzano di San Giuseppe and Sava. After manual harvesting, the grapes undergo prolonged maceration, followed by twelve months of ageing in Caucasian oak barrels – an unusual choice of wood that gives the wine its own aromatic signature.

Sessantanni – sixty years old. The age of the gnarled bush vines, which are rooted in traditional Alberello training on the iron oxide-rich terra rossa soils of San Marzano and Sava. This form of training, in which the vines grow low and without wire frames, is labour-intensive, but protects the grapes from the scorching Apulian sun and naturally limits yields – around 3,000 kilograms per hectare. With Sessantanni, Cantine San Marzano has created a label that has significantly shaped the international perception of Apulian wines. The fully ripe grapes are harvested by hand at the end of September. 80 per cent of the must is left to macerate for 18 days, the remaining 20 per cent for 25 days for maximum extraction. Vinification with indigenous yeasts, twelve months of ageing in French and American oak barrels.

62 years after the cooperative was founded in 1962 – this explains the name of this Riserva, which surpasses the Sessantanni in terms of ageing time and quality. The grapes come from the oldest plots of the cooperative, bush vines in Alberello training on the characteristic red clay soils of Salento. The grapes are harvested by hand, followed by prolonged maceration to maximise extraction. Then aged for 18 months in small oak barrels – six months longer than the Sessantanni –followed by further ageing in the bottle before release.

Pietrabianca offers a contrast between richness and freshness and seduces with a blend of white flowers, almond paste, wet stone and crushed red pears. Silky and supple, it caresses the palate with an elegant wave of ripe peach and nectarine. Lingers long, leaving a mineral and acidic tension as notes of candied lime fade. Not only is it stunning today, but it has a bright future. SUPERIORE.DE

Gioia del Colle is an Italian municipality near Bari and probably the most famous DOC for Primitivo wines. The wines from this appellation embody a straightforward, fresh style and are far removed from the usual jammy suspects. The vines here grow at altitudes of up to 450 metres above sea level, the nights are cooler here than elsewhere in Apulia and the wines have a racier, tighter style and more structure than their namesakes.

Charismatic Negroamaro in an accessible and modern style without gimmickry. In the glass, dark lines of blackberries, plums and blackcurrants with generous background notes of chocolate, Indian spices, teriyaki and smoky barbecue sauce. Noble tannins and ripe fruit flavours form a wine that is both contoured and soft and yielding. Masseria Maime is ready to drink at a young age, but can safely mature for another five years or more. SUPERIORE.DE

An amazingly drinkyOttavianello that captures the wild character of Salento in a subtle way. The grapes come from old vines, selectively harvested and matured in barriques for twelve months. The colour in the glass is a light ruby with a transparent shimmer - light, yet full of expression. The nose is characterised by sour cherry, rosehip and delicate violet blossom, accompanied by spicy notes such as cinnamon and clove. Clear and fresh on the palate, with present but delicate acidity and silky tannins. The finish remains elegant, with spicy echoes and Mediterranean minerality. A bold representative of an almost forgotten grape variety - stylish, unusual, independent. For all those who are looking for the real thing and want to enjoy something beyond the usual. SUPERIORE.DE