Miani

There is one vineyard in Buttrio that carries the essential tension of this place like no other. Nine hectares, embedded in the larger Zitelle parcel, where the chalk colours the soil white and the Sauvignon develops a minerality that is reminiscent of the Loire and yet surpasses it – and yet surpasses it. This place is called Saurint, named after a family who once cultivated their vines here long before Enzo Pontoni arrived. The name remains as a reminder of those who laid the foundation stone. What Enzo produces from this site is considered by many to be Friuli's greatest Sauvignon, a statement that would sound like hubris elsewhere. Here it is simply the truth. The chalk veins in the subsoil give the wine that trembling tension, that electrifying minerality that cannot be created with any trick in the cellar. Fermented in French barriques, around 40 per cent of which are new, without malolactic fermentation in order to preserve the natural acidity. And like the other 2023s, Saurint is released a full year later than usual – enzo's clear answer to a world that wants to drink faster and faster.

Four grape varieties, one principle: uncompromising. While other winegrowers compose their cuvées according to formulas, Enzo Pontoni decides anew each year what proportions the vintage requires. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and the autochthonous Refosco (Tazzelenghe) – are combined in varying proportions, but always with the same signature. The vinification follows the rhythm of the decades. Merlot provides the dark fruit, Cabernet Sauvignon the structure, Cabernet Franc the vegetal finesse – and Refosco the indomitable acidity that gives the wine its backbone. The components rest for twenty-four months in French barriques before Enzo marries them to create a cuvée that is more than the sum of its parts.

There are wines that you like to drink. And there are wines that make you fall silent. Two vineyards engage in a silent dialogue here: Buri in Buttrio and Filip in Rosazzo – vineyards that are bottled separately in great years but combine their voices here in the 2022 vintage. Buri brings structure and those smoky, creamy notes of cocoa and coffee reduction that Antonio Galloni once praised as "one of the most profound expressions of Merlot on the planet". Filip responds with immediacy and flinty-fresh elegance, with violets and delicate finesse. The result is more than just addition: it is synthesis. The vinification follows Enzo's credo of consistent restraint. Spontaneous fermentation without temperature control, ageing in French barriques – only a quarter of them new so as not to mask the fruit. No filtration. The wine decides for itself when it is ready.

Refosco from the smallest vineyard "La Mont di Zuc" impresses on the palate with a complex potpourri of plums, sour cherries, graphite, flowers and minerals. This towering, massive wine remains extraordinarily pristine: in fact, it tastes like biting into a perfectly ripened grape from this very special site! As it progresses, a deep, complex register develops, composed precisely to retain the famous Miani elegance and freshness that can only be achieved with the utmost care in the vineyard and cellar. SUPERIORE.DE