Dessert wine from Italy

I.P – two letters that mean a lot in the Marsala Codex: Italia Particolare, the traditional quality mark for Marsala, to which mosto cotto – cooked grape must – is added. It gives the wine its characteristic depth, its amber colour and that warm sweetness that is never overpowering. Pellegrino produces this Fine from Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia, the classic triumvirate of grape varieties from western Sicily, and ages it in oak for at least twelve months. Not a vintage, not a Riserva, but an honest, everyday Marsala with genuine origins.

This seductive Goldmuskateller is produced from carefully selected, sun-exposed hillside vineyards around Bolzano at an altitude of 300-550 metres, continuing the centuries-old tradition of this aromatic grape variety in South Tyrol. In the warm, well-ventilated sites, the Moscato Giallo grapes thrive under ideal conditions until the end of September and develop the intense muscat flavour that makes this variety so unmistakable.

Marsala dry – that still sounds like a surprise to many. Yet dryness was the norm for a long time: before sweetness and flavour additives degraded most Marsala to a kitchen commodity, it was a serious, dry liqueur wine. Pellegrino is a reminder of this. The "Old Marsala" in its new, dry interpretation is superlative quality: 24 months in wooden barrels, Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia from western Sicily. No mosto cotto, no sweetening – the wine is left to its own devices, works oxidatively, develops depth.

This still Muscat, which was conceived as the "little brother" of Torcolato and Acininobili, is a masterpiece and proves once again that Fausto Maculan is one of the world's best producers of dessert wines. Dindarello enchants with a marvellous blend of peach sorbet, kiwi and fresh mint. These aromas accompany the wonderfully full flavour right through to the finish. Its perfect balance between sweetness and acidity will ennoble any meal. SUPERIORE.DE

The general is said to have been a teetotaller. Until he drank Marsala. The story may be legend – this wine has earned its name since 1862, when Giuseppe Garibaldi landed in Marsala with his troops and discovered the sweetness that won him over. Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia, the classic triad of western Sicily. After the infusion and addition of mosto cotto, the Garibaldi Dolce matures for 24 months in large oak barrels – twice as long as the Fine, with correspondingly more depth and concentration.

The indigenous Verduzzo grape variety unfolds its full potential here: the grapes dry directly on the vine, naturally concentrating sugar and flavours. After a late harvest, fermentation takes place in barriques - a rare, traditional style. A bright golden yellow colour in the glass. The aroma is enticing with notes of candied apricot, acacia honey, vanilla and a fine spiciness from the wood. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, soft and harmonious, with a balanced sweetness and creamy flavour. An expressive, elegant dessert wine with a long finish and regional character. SUPERIORE.DE

Giardino Pantesco is a liquid short holiday on Pantelleria – as golden as a last ray of sunshine at sunset, carried by the history and terroir of this magical island. The name refers to the "Giardini Panteschi", the centuries-old dry stone walls built in a round shape that intercept the wind and stabilise the microclimate for crops such as the gnarled Zibibbo vine. Those who savour this passito will feel the reverence for this landscape and tradition with every sip.

The Aleatico grape variety is of Greek origin and is mainly used in Tuscany and central Italy for the production of dessert wines. The grapes were harvested late and processed gently to guarantee maximum flavour concentration and typical sweet wine charm. The wine was matured in stainless steel tanks to preserve freshness and pure fruit. In the glass, the wine has a dense ruby colour with a light violet hue. On the nose, it seduces with candied raspberry, blackcurrant, a delicate rose petal fragrance, sweet fig and a hint of dark chocolate. Soft and supple on the palate, with elegant sweetness and a rich mouthfeel. The lively acidity balances the sweetness perfectly, the finish is long, inviting and pleasantly savoury. An intense, charming wine for conscious moments of pleasure – on its own, with cheese variations or with dark chocolate. Total production: 2,000 bottles. SUPERIORE.DE

The Inghams came to Sicily in pairs. Benjamin first – in 1806, with the instinct of an entrepreneur. Then, in 1819, his uncle Joseph followed: not to inherit, but to help, to build, to expand. Together they created a trading empire that Marsala shipped all over the world with their fleet. Pellegrino remembers them both – "BIP" for Benjamin, "Uncle Joseph" for the uncle who came when he was needed. And the wine? An outsider among the Marsala types – and that's exactly what makes it interesting. 100% Nero d'Avola, from loamy soils in the Trapesi countryside around Mazara del Vallo, harvested in the second decade of September when fully ripe. Cold maceration, then fermentation stopped with an acquavite matured in oak for at least five years – the depth begins here. 24 months of ageing in French Allier oak barrels give the Rubino structure and that velvety texture that makes Nero d'Avola so unmistakable.

Three letters, a whole story: BIP stands for "Benjamin Ingham Palermo". The Englishman came to Sicily in 1806 – not as a tourist, but as an entrepreneur with vision. He followed in the footsteps of John Woodhouse, but surpassed him by far: Ingham built up a trading empire that shipped Marsala all over the world and left a lasting mark on the city. Pellegrino still preserves his archive today – 110 volumes of Sicilian economic history. Pellegrino dedicates its elegant Oro Riserva to this man. Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia, from sandy coastal soils between Marsala and Petrosino. The fermentation is stopped with an acquavite aged in oak for at least five years – a detail that stacks depth upon depth. Then: more than 48 months in large oak barrels, a further six months in barriques. The 2013 is a wine that has clearly benefited from time.

"A quei tempi era sempre festa" – back then there was always a party. Thus begins Cesare Pavese's novel "La bella estate", written in 1940 and awarded the Premio Strega in 1950, a tale about those fleeting summers of youth when anything seems possible. It is no coincidence that Vite Colte named its Moscato Passito after this work: the Barolo cooperative has dedicated several of its wines to Piedmontese Liters– "La Luna e i Falò", also a Pavese title, adorns their award-winning Barbera d'Asti. It is a nod to their homeland, to the landscape of hills and mist that Pavese described so unmistakably.

The name says it all: "torcolare" – to twist, to braid. In Breganze, it was once a tradition to braid the Vespaiola grapes into plaits after the harvest and hang them under the cellar ceiling so that the air could circulate between the berries. An exercise in patience that takes months and ends with liquid gold. Fausto Maculan did not invent this wine – he saved it. When he took over the winery in the 1970s, Torcolato was an oxidised, syrupy relic. Fausto turned it into a modern sweet wine of international calibre: precise, fresh, lively. Today, 10–15% of the grapes are still woven and hung as Rosolo using the old method, the rest are dried in modern crates. After four months, the berries have lost almost 70% of their weight. Slow fermentation in steel tanks for around a month, followed by a year in French barriques.

Here comes a wine that completely tantalises the senses: Maximo is a sweet wine rarity based on Sauvignon Blanc, harvested at the height of the Villa Bianchi estate – where humidity and dry winds favour the noblest form of Botrytis cinerea. The grapes ripen on the cool Colli del Verdicchio before they are hand-picked several times and transferred to the cellar, where they are pressed particularly gently in a small Vaslin press basket. Spontaneous fermentation takes place at 15 °C for around a month. After static clarification, the wine matures in small stainless steel tanks for around a year.

Before there was Soave, there was this wine. In the fifth century, the Roman senator Cassiodorus praised a sweet wine made from dried grapes at the court of the Ostrogoth king Theodoric – acinaticum, the original form of what is now called Recioto di Soave. Fifteen hundred years later, in 1998, it became the first Venetian wine with DOCG status. And yet very few people know it. The story has been reversed: Amarone, which originated in the 1930s as a "runaway" Recioto – a barrel that accidentally fermented through –became a world star. Recioto, its ancestor, remained in the shadows. Guerrieri Rizzardi's version comes from old pergola vines in Costeggiola, planted between 1960 and 1998 on volcanic gravel. Only a third of the harvest is deemed worthy of drying in fruttaio for three to five months – a selection within the selection.

A rare gem from the Colli Orientali: "Noans" is Tunella's rare cuvée made from noble sweet fermented, vine-dried grapes - a prime example of Friuli's underestimated talent in the field of high-quality sweet wines. The vines grow on calcareous marl (Ponca), which in this region not only produces delicate white wines, but also sweet wines with a cool balance. The carefully selected grapes - mostly Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco and Friulano - remain on the vine until well into late autumn. The natural loss of water through dehydration leads to an enormous concentration of sugar, acidity and flavour. After manual harvesting, the wine is fermented and matured in small barriques, where it slowly ferments for months. The result: a finely structured, deeply flavoured Trockenbeerenauslese of impressive elegance.

A rare gem from the Colli Orientali: "Noans" is Tunella's rare cuvée made from noble sweet fermented, vine-dried grapes - a prime example of Friuli's underestimated talent in the field of high-quality sweet wines. The vines grow on calcareous marl (Ponca), which in this region not only produces delicate white wines, but also sweet wines with a cool balance. The carefully selected grapes - mostly Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco and Friulano - remain on the vine until well into late autumn. The natural loss of water through dehydration leads to an enormous concentration of sugar, acidity and flavour. After manual harvesting, the wine is fermented and matured in small barriques, where it slowly ferments for months. The result: a finely structured, deeply flavoured Trockenbeerenauslese of impressive elegance.

South Tyrol's Gewürztraminer has some top-class competition here: this unique white wine is made from one hundred per cent Albana grapes, 20% of which is only harvested as a late harvest after botrytis infestation in November. Only 2,800 bottles are sold.