Wine

Della Bastonaca is the quintessence of the COS philosophy, grown on the historic estate in Bastonaca near Vittoria – where up to 75-year-old Alberello vines of Nero d'Avola and Frappato stand on calcareous red clay, criss-crossed by quartz veins and the constant presence of Mediterranean air. Biodynamics is not a statement here, but a lived practice – for decades, each vintage has been vinified in harmony with nature at the right rhythm.

The wolf's mouth. This is the translation of Bocca di Lupo – a name that captures the wildness of this landscape. Here, in the heart of the Alta Murgia near Minervino Murge, a dream began in 1998: the Antinori family, creators of legendary super Tuscans, recognised the dormant potential of Apulia and invested in a terrain that could not be more barren. Limestone tuff soils, karstic hills, an almost lunar panorama at an altitude of 250-300 metres. But it is precisely this barrenness that is the secret. At the centre of the project: the rediscovery of Aglianico – the noble, once underestimated grape variety that is to find an authentic Apulian voice here. The organically cultivated vines yield slightly overripe grapes that fully develop their phenolic potential. After manual harvesting, the must ferments at 25–27 °C in stainless steel, maceration takes place over 15–18 days with gentle remontages and délestages. Malolactic fermentation takes place in French barriques, where the wine matures for a further 15 months. This is followed by a full 24 months of bottle ageing – this wine is only released onto the market after a total of three years (+).

Venice, 1967: Charles de Gaulle and his wife Yvonne are guests at the Hotel Gritti, invited to the Biennale. A red wine is served at the state dinner, which the president considers to be a great Bordeaux – and publicly praises. When the sommelier reveals that it is a Venegazzù from Montello, just fifty kilometres away, the surprise is perfect. Conte Piero Loredan, descendant of the Venetian Doge Leonardo Loredan, then commissioned the artist Tono Zancanaro to design two labels: Dionysus with the dedication "des roses pour Madame" for the president's wife, the goddess of wine with "...et pour Monsieur la Bombe" for de Gaulle himself. The Capo di Stato was born – a wine for heads of state. To this day, bottles are sent to the Élysée Palace every time a new French president is elected.

Michele Chiarlo's Barbaresco Faset offers a high degree of intensity and balance. Its bouquet shows wild berries and cassis with sophisticated background notes of tar, smoke and dark spices. It is a silky expression of the grape variety with a long and very convincing finish. Be patient and give it another 3-5 years to give it the time it needs to integrate and balance. SUPERIORE.DE

"You should take that much time. Time and attention for the best of our Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Perfect harmony that is only achieved after 10 years of ageing in the bottle. Dense to the tips of your hair." Michael Graf Goëss-Enzenberg, Weingut Manincor

Bright ruby red in colour with a slight garnet hue – a lively start to this elegant Nebbiolo from the breathtaking vineyards of Ravera near Monforte d'Alba at an altitude of around 400 metres. The vines are around 15 years old and are deeply rooted in chalky clay soil, which gives the wine its characteristic freshness and precision. After manual harvesting and gentle fermentation in stainless steel, the wine matures for around 14 months in used French barriques before being bottled.

Also from Bruttrio, like the Friulano Buri Bellaria, comes the almost pure top Merlot from the Palazzolo family. The vines of the vineyard, which was formerly cultivated by Miani, are almost 100 years old and regularly produce grapes of great complexity and very fine tannins, which, however, require at least two years of ageing and refinement before the wine is bottled unfiltered. But then the wine embarks on a journey that could not be more exciting and rewarding. On the nose, we find violet flowers and lots of blue and black berries, rounded off with savoury herbs and spices. A remarkably silky, almost floating red that leads into a never-ending, fusiose final with fleshy berries, minerals and herbs. SUPERIORE.DE

Bright ruby red colour. Refined raspberry and red cherry on the nose, with notes of quinine and flowers that develop with further aeration. Fresh flavours of red berries and smoked beef, with hints of violets and orange zest. Almost exotic on the palate with plenty of luscious extract sweetness and fine tannins and a fresh, mineral, dry finish. An exceptional red wine with a terrificarc of tension! SUPERIORE.DE

Deep dark, impenetrable ruby colour with violet reflections. Opulent, warm bouquet of fully ripe cherries, plums, liquorice, young leather with a hint of French oak spice. Powerful and firm on the palate, with a brilliant structure and taut tannins. With increasing aeration, it reveals its good structure and refined elegance. This outstanding Merlot from central Tuscany never seems broad or too heavy until the long finish, but is completely convincing with its terrificenergy and complexity. SUPERIORE.DE

In the annals of Tuscan wine history, there are vineyards that bear witness to dynasties and eras, and the Vigna dell'Impero is one of these living monuments. In 1935, in that fateful year when Europe was on the eve of great upheavals, the Savoia royal family had a vineyard planted on their hunting reserve in Valdarno di Sopra, which is now one of the most venerable terroirs in Tuscany. Three hectares of terraced vineyards, planted by hand at an altitude of 300 metres, where the Sangiovese vines dig their roots deep into the stony, galestro-rich soil. Antonio Moretti Cuseri recognised the exceptional quality of this ancient site and decided in 2012 to create a limited edition from this historic cru. Only in the best vintages, in numbered bottles, as a tribute to 85 years of winegrowing history. The Sangiovese in Purezza undergoes a particularly gentle, one-month maceration to extract all the noble components of the grapes harvested at optimum phenolic ripeness. 24 months of ageing in large 15 and 25 hectolitre barrels, followed by months of bottle ageing without filtration – to preserve the purest terroir notes.

The world-famous Caiarossa is an extremely exciting blend of the Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese, Syrah and Alicante varieties, with the rich, dark fruit flavours of the Cabernet grapes taking centre stage. On the nose, a beautiful first wave of dark fruits that never appear too ripe, which greatly benefits the elegance of the wine. The palate is very balanced and focussed with blackberries, cassis and slight hints of salty or rusty minerals. Caiarossa displays a good degree of elegance, not least due to its fine and taut tannins, and despite its density and complexity never comes across as opulent or even overloaded. SUPERIORE.DE

Since the 2016 vintage, Livio Felluga's top wine Sossò has been maturing in the bottle for an extra year before being released for sale. This Riserva is a beautifully rich and comforting red wine that is dense on the palate, imparting pretty cherry and dark fruit flavours with plenty of spice and tobacco. The extremely articulate flavour shoulders a convincing tannin portion and yet steers into an intensely fruity final with terrificlength. The wine simply glides forward with its unique feel and a dynamism that is slow and long-lasting. SUPERIORE.DE

G.D. Vajra's Ravera (whose vineyard extends over the municipalities of Novello and Barolo) is always the most angular, powerful and vertical of their collection. It comes from soils with clay and sandstone at 320 to 340 metres above sea level. This is the ideal place for wines that show both power and elegance. The tannins are sweet, but every fibre of the backbone is dense and firm. Red and purple fruits with liquorice, tar and white truffle are neatly packaged here and only reveal themselves gradually, but then with beautiful precision and straightforwardness. The final has a wonderfully long aftertaste, superb! SUPERIORE.DE

"Vigna Dominin" comes from a steep single vineyard with old vines that are deeply rooted in the characteristic Ponca soil. Paolo Meroi only vinifies this wine in the best years and with uncompromising precision. The 2015 vintage was characterised by a cool growing season, which gave the grapes exceptional aromatic tension and a remarkable balance of fruit, structure and acidity. After rigorous manual harvesting, the wine matured for 24 months in French barriques and was only released after several years in the bottle.

The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino (of which only 4,000 bottles were made) offers great balance and a very pretty personality, based on bright cherries, some earthiness and crushed flowers on the nose. The wine is very supple and integrated, especially in terms of its polished tannins, and there is of course a wonderfully perky spot of bright acidity at the end. A beautiful wine full of verve and grace with waves of red and black berries over its savoury and mineral core. A rich, grippy tannin accompanies the juicy final, which ends with delicate notes of almonds and roses. SUPERIORE.DE

The name Tresette is derived from the fact that only 2,800 bottles of this single-varietal Merlot are produced each year and it is aged in three Liters French oak barrels. The grapes come from old vines on a plot 480 metres above sea level, and it is only vinified in the best years. Tresette is a cool, archetypal Merlot that is very elegant and unique in Tuscany and is entirely in keeping with the house style. Juicy blackberry flavours, clove, herbs and spices on the nose. Enveloped by supple tannins, this fresh red leads into a delicious finish. SUPERIORE.DE

There are moments in the history of Italian viticulture that shine like beacons through time. 1962 was one such moment when Fabrizio Bianchi, driven by a vision and surrounded by the scepticism of his contemporaries, made a decision that would change Chianti Classico forever. He dared to vinify the grapes from a single vineyard separately: Il Poggio. What began as an experiment became a revolution – the first cru of Chianti Classico was born. Il Poggio – "the hill" – lies in the heart of Monsanto like a natural amphitheatre, surrounded by wild cypresses, juniper bushes and strawberry trees. Here, on the characteristic Galestro soils between 280 and 320 metres above sea level, the Sangiovese vines have driven their roots deep into the slate-like rock over the decades. These soils – a gift of geological history – give the wine the mineral depth and structural complexity that have made Il Poggio a living legend.

Around 2,000 bottles of this single-vineyard wine are sold each year. Extremely complex bouquet of blackberry, blackcurrant and sour cherry, with perfectly integrated notes of Mediterranean herbs. Broad and elegant on the palate, supported by a delicate acid wire that makes it fresh and lively. A great wine with excellent structure and remarkable persistence and depth of flavour. SUPERIORE.DE

Castelnuovo dell'Abate has its own character – rougher, denser, more mineral than many other corners of the appellation. The clayey-sandy soils with their high proportion of skeleton, the altitudes between 150 and 350 metres, the lee of Monte Amiata, the cool nights from the Orcia Valley: anyone who plants vines here gets Sangiovese with attitude. Andrea Cortonesi has been planting here for almost four decades. 2021 demanded a lot from this terroir – and the winegrower – a lot. The late frost in April hit the lower vineyards hard and the harvest was around 15 per cent smaller than the previous year. A hot, dry summer followed before two rainfalls in the second half of August gave the vineyards water and the grapes their final aromatic depth. The long September nights did the rest: phenolic ripeness, without heat character, without compromising on freshness. What Uccelliera subsequently brought into the cellar was concentrated, healthy, clear and – and with that crisp fruitiness that makes Castelnuovo wines unmistakable.

From the beginning, Pio Cesare produced limited quantities of Barolo Chinato and Vermouth, precisely according to a family recipe handed down by his grandfather. In the early 1950s, however, production was discontinued as tastes and preferences changed.

Pinot Nero in Lombardy is a quiet discipline - difficult to master, easy to underestimate. With Pinéro, Ca' del Bosco has been proving for decades that this grape variety can also achieve expression and elegance on the edge of the Alps. The 2019 vintage was characterised by balanced vegetation, with cool nights at harvest time - a blessing for finesse, freshness and structure. The grapes come from high-altitude vineyards in the Sebino area with calcareous, clayey soils and good air circulation. After manual harvesting in small crates and strict selection, fermentation takes place in large, open oak vats - a traditional process that preserves structure and aromatic finesse. The wine then matures for 11 months in French barriques - one part new, the other used. Everything is done with care: no excess, no forced concentration, but rather the development of fine depth.

This magnificent Etna Bianco reflects the mineral profile of its origin with clarity and authenticity. It grows in the Contrada Feudo near Randazzo, at an altitude of around 650 metres, where volcanic soils with grey ash and lapilli give it a clear structure of origin. The year 2023 was balanced and cool on Etna – ideal conditions for relaxed ripening with a clear freshness. The grapes were harvested early and come partly from terraces with decades-old vines. The vinification combines a classic stainless steel tank approach with six months of ageing in tonneau – a mix that combines fullness, varietal purity and fine flavour.

Le Cupole has been the accessible entry point into the world of the legendary Tenuta di Trinoro since 1995, but "accessible" never means compromise at this visionary winery. In the Val d'Orcia, where southern Tuscany is wild and unspoilt, near Sarteano on the border with Umbria and Lazio, the eccentric scion of the Cinzano empire and nephew of the American painter Cy Twombly created a wine paradise at an altitude of 500 to 700 metres, which was initially thought to be crazy. Le Cupole is made from the same Bordeaux blend as the great Tenuta di Trinoro – merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot –but comes from younger vines on deeper, less extreme soils. The proportions vary depending on the vintage in order to optimally interpret the characteristics of the harvest.

A journey through time on five hectares: Giovanni Manetti is a man who knows how to unravel historical secrets. When he discovered drawings from the 15th century in the archives of the University of Florence that showed that the hill of San Leolino was once completely planted with vines, this was the key to an extraordinary revitalisation project. Where for centuries there had only been olive trees – with the exception of a small plot from the 1970s –the Terrazze di San Leolino were created anew. The terroir tells a different story to the famous Vigna del Sorbo: here, at an altitude of 450 metres, it is not the slatey Galestro that dominates, but the calcareous Alberese soil. This geological peculiarity gives San Leolino its unmistakable character – mineral, salty, with a freshness that immediately reminds the nose of crushed stones and earthy notes.