San Giovenale

Some wine projects are born out of calculation. This one was born out of one of those happy collisions between man and landscape that cannot be planned. Emanuele Pangrazi, a Roman and entrepreneur, travelled through the Tuscia hills north of Rome in 2006 and stayed. He bought land in Blera, a place whose name few people recognise, but whose history goes back to the Etruscans – the advanced civilisation that carved its necropolises into the tufa here. The winery is named San Giovenale after a nearby Etruscan ruined city. What fascinated him about this part of Lazio was the climatic tension: 300 to 400 metres above sea level, clay-rich soils with stone inclusions, dry winds from the nearby Tyrrhenian Sea. Not a location for Sangiovese, as the soils quickly made clear. But for the varieties of the southern Rhône – grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Tempranillo. Grown as Alberello with 11,000 vines per hectare. The vines fight, compete, plunge deep into the clay. Yield: 25 quintals per hectare.

The name was no coincidence. "Habemus" – we have it. The phrase that falls from the balcony of St Peter's Basilica when the cardinals have reached an agreement. Emanuele Pangrazi chose it deliberately: Viterbo, the capital of Tuscia, was itself a papal residence in the 13th century when Rome was too dangerous – when Rome was too dangerous. The same city, the same history, only the wine was different back then. Pangrazi set out to change that in 2006. The vineyards are located at 300 to 400 metres in Blera, on heavy, stony clay soils with southern exposure. No artificial fertilisers, no chemicals – only spring water and plant-based products. All vines are trained as Alberello, the bushy single vine training of the Mediterranean region, with 11,000 plants per hectare. The yield remains at 25 quintals – two small, loose grapes per vine, with thick skins and little pulp. Concentration as a natural principle.

Emanuele Pangrazi is probably Lazio's most ambitious winemaker at the moment. With his extreme planting density and radical yield restriction, he is following a path that is trend-setting for Lazio. After he had fundamentally analysed his terroir and also the climatic conditions, it was clear to him in 2006 that he would plant mainly French grape varieties here according to the principle of the great wines of the Rhone. In addition to his famous Cuvée Habemus (Etichetta Bianca) and the San Giovenale Rosso (assemblage from two vintages of Habemus), he also vinifies four single-varietal Habemus wines, but these are absolutely small.

Emanuele Pangrazi is probably Lazio's most ambitious winemaker at the moment. With his extreme planting density and radical yield restriction, he is following a path that is trend-setting for Lazio. After he had fundamentally analysed his terroir and also the climatic conditions, it was clear to him in 2006 that he would plant mainly French grape varieties here according to the principle of the great wines of the Rhone. In addition to his famous Cuvée Habemus (Etichetta Bianca) and the San Giovenale Rosso (assemblage from two vintages of Habemus), he also vinifies four single-varietal Habemus wines, but these are absolutely small.

Emanuele Pangrazi is probably Lazio's most ambitious winemaker at the moment. With his extreme planting density and radical yield restriction, he is following a path that is trend-setting for Lazio. After he had fundamentally analysed his terroir and also the climatic conditions, it was clear to him in 2006 that he would plant mainly French grape varieties here according to the principle of the great wines of the Rhone. In addition to his famous Cuvée Habemus (Etichetta Bianca) and the San Giovenale Rosso (assemblage from two vintages of Habemus), he also vinifies four single-varietal Habemus wines, but these are absolutely small.

Emanuele Pangrazi is probably the most ambitious winemaker in Lazio at the moment. With his extreme planting density and radical yield restriction, he is following a path that is pioneering for Lazio. After thoroughly analysing his terroir and the climatic conditions, it was clear to him in 2006 that he would plant primarily French grape varieties based on the principle of the great wines of the Rhone. In addition to his famous Cuvée Habemus (Etichetta Bianca) and the San Giovenale Rosso (assemblage of two vintages of Habemus), he also vinifies four single-varietal Habemus wines, albeit in very small quantities.

Emanuele Pangrazi is probably the most ambitious winemaker in Lazio at the moment. With his extreme planting density and radical yield restriction, he is following a path that is pioneering for Lazio. After thoroughly analysing his terroir and the climatic conditions, it was clear to him in 2006 that he would plant primarily French grape varieties based on the principle of the great wines of the Rhone. In addition to his famous Cuvée Habemus (Etichetta Bianca) and the San Giovenale Rosso (a blend of two vintages of Habemus), he also produces four single-varietal Habemus wines, albeit in very small quantities.

Around 300 bottles. No more. Anyone who knows the Etichetta Nera knows: you don't just buy it like that – you get it if you're lucky. The Syrah on the black label grows on a single hectare in Blera, 380 metres above sea level, exposed to the south-east, on heavy clay with rock inclusions. The same vineyard from which Emanuele Pangrazi and Marco Casolanetti have always distilled their Syrah fraction for the Habemus blend – the part that Pangrazi once described as the "mouth of Habemus": the fleshy, the dark, the substantial. What used to carry the body of the blend stands alone here for the first time.

One hectare. 13,000 vines. 1,000 bottles. You don't really need to say more – and yet that would be too little. The Cabernet Franc of Etichetta Rossa grows on a single vineyard in Blera, south-east facing, 380 metres above sea level, heavy clay soils with stone inclusions. The planting density – 13,000 vines per hectare – exceeds even the already extreme density of the other San Giovenale plots. Each plant fights for water, light and space. The yield is 12 quintals per hectare – half as much as the Habemus Bianca. What remains is concentrated to the limit of what is possible.

If Syrah is the mouth of Habemus, then Grenache is its nose. This is how Emanuele Pangrazi himself described it one afternoon in the Bottaia of Blera, when he drew directly from the barrel with a pipette and placed two glasses next to each other: one almost black, the other bright ruby red, almost transparent. Two worlds, one terroir. The Etichetta Blu is pure Grenache – and it is the most sensitive, aromatically rich and surprising wine in the San Giovenale portfolio. The same vineyards in Blera, the same clay soils with stone inclusions, the same altitude of 300 to 400 metres, the same oceanic breeze from the Tyrrhenian Sea. The same extreme planting density, the same organically certified work without chemicals or synthesis. And yet: a completely different result.

A white wine as a final. Production: 500 bottles per vintage. Anyone who only knows San Giovenale from its reds will pause for a moment here – and then realise that this winery has always thought bigger than the obvious answer. The story of "Oro" begins in 2013, not in the vineyard, but in a laboratory. Emanuele Pangrazi collaborated with ARSIAL, the scientific research institute of the Lazio region, to test whether Marsanne and Roussanne – the great white grape varieties of the northern Rhône, home to Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage – could thrive in Tuscia. The result of this experiment was clear: yes. The dry climate of Blera, ventilated by the Tyrrhenian Sea, the heavy clay soils, the altitude – everything fitted. It was the first time that these varieties had ever been planted in Lazio.

The name was no coincidence. "Habemus" – we have it. The phrase that falls from the balcony of St Peter's Basilica when the cardinals have reached an agreement. Emanuele Pangrazi chose it deliberately: Viterbo, the capital of Tuscia, was itself a papal residence in the 13th century when Rome was too dangerous – when Rome was too dangerous. The same city, the same history, only the wine was different back then. Pangrazi set out to change that in 2006. The vineyards are located at 300 to 400 metres in Blera, on heavy, stony clay soils with southern exposure. No artificial fertilisers, no chemicals – only spring water and plant-based products. All vines are trained as Alberello, the bushy single vine training of the Mediterranean region, with 11,000 plants per hectare. The yield remains at 25 quintals – two small, loose grapes per vine, with thick skins and little pulp. Concentration as a natural principle.