James Suckling

Messorio has been one of Italy's best and rarest Merlots for over a decade. Soft, rich, elegant, refined and never overdone. On the nose, ripe fruit, coffee, graphite and French oak. Structured and balanced, Messorio fascinates the international wine world every year with a clarity and length that is second to none. SUPERIORE.DE

The name Darmagi – which means "what a disgrace" in Piedmontese – stems from a family anecdote: Gaja's father Giovanni uttered this exclamation when Angelo had Cabernet Sauvignon planted instead of Nebbiolo. Today, this experiment is considered a masterpiece for Gaja, subtly redefining the region. In the glass, Darmagi is a deep purple colour, almost black, with a shiny violet rim. A luxuriously dense aroma unfolds on the nose: blackcurrants, espresso, roasted herbs and smoky, woody notes interweave with cassis and foliage. On the palate, this Langhe Rosso is brooding and velvety: softly flowing tannins, fine acidity and mineral precision lend elegance and presence at the same time. The overall impression is rich, clear and seductively comprehensive.

Madonna del Piano is a top wine from a top vintage, what more could you want? We are deeply impressed by its energetic tension and complexity, plus a harmony only imagined in the wildest dreams. Focused and racy bouquet of dark cherries, herbs, smoke and mineral hints. Very animating in the drink, the acidity plays around the primary fruit, then the polished tannins set in and glide this beautiful red into its almost endless finish. An extremely characterful and polished wine that is already one of the most beautiful of its appellation. SUPERIORE.DE

Rocche di Castiglione is prized for its pure white, chalky soils, which produce wines of exceptional finesse and a wide range of flavours. For lovers of timeless Nebbiolo, it is a real hit. The vines are located not far from the winery, which blends into the stone walls and urban fabric of the village of Castiglione Falletto. The vineyard is about one hectare in size. Rocche di Castiglione is a curiously shaped and elongated MGA with a unique south-east exposure along a steep ravine, with Bussia to the west and Perno to the east. This site is characterised by freshness, extreme precision, straightforwardness, structure and balanced freshness. This naturally concentrated vintage also displays a juicy quality that is simply outstanding. Pretty mineral notes contribute to the balance and elegance. SUPERIORE.DE

Baroli from Serralunga d'Alba are often in a category of their own thanks to their richness and sheer abundance of fruit. Lazzarito stands on an impressive base of robust fruit and vigour, rising in intensity thanks to its wonderfully elevated bouquet. It shows direct and solid lines with blackberries, plums, spices, tar, liquorice, candied orange peel and truffle-infused earth. A second wave of flavours offers dark minerals, iron ore and rust. With additional aeration, it delivers mint and fine balsamic herbs and will fully delight with further bottle ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Ravera is a wine of great impact and power, and it is also a wine of the future. This is because Ravera (in the municipality of Novello) is one of the best vineyards that never ceases to surprise and impress, despite the changing climate. Thanks to the high altitude and the open view of the snow-capped mountains, the microclimate is well ventilated but protected at the same time. On the nose, freshly cut flowers, white pepper and mint, shy at first but very energetic and straightforward as the wine progresses. On the palate, preserved dark cherries, lavender, mint, crushed stones and hints of sage. All in all, a powerful, breathtaking and deep Barolo, endowed with great purity and beautiful transparency. A stunning wine! SUPERIORE.DE

Around 60% of the grapes for the Monvigliero are not destemmed, which enhances the aromatic nuances of the wine. Youthful notes of raspberry and blueberry are flanked by black pepper, gentian, porcelain and black olives. On the palate, it has a beguilingly soft texture, fine and creamy, accompanied by wonderful flavours of laurel and flowers. Monvigliero from Verduno impresses with its purity, its sheer serenity and its class. Excellent every year and unfortunately very rare. SUPERIORE.DE

Vietti's Brunate parcels are located on the La Morra side of the cru site. It was fermented in stainless steel and then transferred directly to large oak barrels for ageing. Barolo Brunate is a powerful and vertical wine, endowed with enormous explosive energy and intensity. It offers engaging and penetrating aromas of cedar wood, red cherry, blood orange, sage flowers and rose. On the palate, its austere personality is evident and any connoisseur will realise that it needs a few more years in the bottle to develop. Dense and multi-layered, with great depth, chewy tannins and lingering red berries, this is already a fantastically complete wine. SUPERIORE.DE

This is more than a wine – it is the essence of a project born in 1999 with the vision of showing the world the finest that Bolgheri is capable of producing. From five selected vineyard sites between 80 and 220 metres above sea level – argentiera, Ginestre, Ventaglio, Porcarecce and Ceccosodo – a cuvée has emerged that has been a contemporary symbol of Italian winemaking since its debut vintage in 2003. The 2021 vintage is the culmination of an extraordinary era: 48% Merlot is combined with 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc to create a Bordeaux-inspired masterpiece that nevertheless breathes an unmistakable Tuscan soul. Sourced from the Tenuta's best plots, where sandy, calcareous and stony soils thrive between Mediterranean scrub and the salty tang of the Tyrrhenian Sea, each grape embodies the unique terroir identity of this privileged location.

Barolo Cerequio comes from vines that are over 35 years old. The vineyards were acquired by Michele Chiarlo in the 2010s through fortunate circumstances. Opens with aromas of freshly halved cherries, which are joined by a mixture of cloves, allspice and vanilla, while fresh roses are almost close at hand. On the palate, concentrated and lush plums and mixed berries, while black tea, liquorice and subtle earthy flavours gradually emerge. In the mid-palate, the tannins are still clearly noticeable, but with a little time all parts will be in balance. This wine is already a poem today, but its very best days will come with some bottle ageing! SUPERIORE.DE

Some vineyards carry their history within them like annual rings in an old tree. Vigna 10 on the Brancaia hill near Castellina is such a place. When Brigitte and Bruno Widmer bought the abandoned estate in 1981, they immediately recognised the potential of this plot of land – a gentle south-facing slope at 230 metres, clay soils that retain water and an exposure that allows the Sangiovese to reach full maturity without overtaxing it. Eighteen years later, in 1999, the vineyard was replanted – not with just any clones, but with five of the most promising Sangiovese selections from the ambitious "Chianti Classico 2000" research project, which has been researching and preserving the genetic diversity of this grape variety since the 1980s.

The winery's first Riserva is produced from a selection of two plots at the highest altitudes on the estate (450 metres). The steep, south-facing plots lie on stony, ferrous soils. SUPERIORE.DE

Scrio is Tuscan and means: pure, sincere, whole. Since 1994, this wine has been Cinzia Merli's vision of a single-varietal Syrah that is neither French nor Californian, but Mediterranean and Tuscan at the same time. Produced in minimal quantities, this wine quickly became the reference in Bolgheri for a grape variety that is not actually native to the region. The 2021 marks a turning point: 50% of the grapes now come from new hillside vineyards, which gives the wine an elegance and delicacy that is almost reminiscent of Pinot Noir. After 20 days of fermentation and maceration in concrete tanks and earthenware amphorae, the Scrio matures for 14 months in neutral French oak, clayvers and earthenware amphorae – an ageing process that emphasises the lively fruit.

Baroli from Serralunga d'Alba are often in a category of their own thanks to their richness and sheer abundance of fruit and simultaneous austerity. Initially restrained red fruit on the nose, dense and very concentrated on the palate. Lazzarito 2021 impresses with its powerful but ripe tannins, typical of Serralunga. This assertive and still very youthful wine is very long-lived and has an impressive drive on the impressively long finish. Let's give it the time it needs and it will delight us completely. SUPERIORE.DE

An unrivalled powerhouse and at the same time of a unique beauty and finesse. Villero (only produced in the best vintages) is an overwhelming interpretation of the otherwise rather austere Nebbiolo grape, which here displays a kaleidoscope of life and vigour.

Rocche di Castiglione is prized for its pure white, chalky soils, which produce wines of exceptional finesse and a wide range of flavours. For lovers of timeless Nebbiolo, it is a real hit. The vines are located not far from the winery, which blends into the stone walls and urban fabric of the village of Castiglione Falletto. The vineyard is about one hectare in size. Rocche di Castiglione is a curiously shaped and elongated MGA with a unique south-east exposure along a steep ravine, with Bussia to the west and Perno to the east. This site is characterised by freshness, extreme precision, straightforwardness, structure and balanced freshness.

At the end of the 1980s, Luca Sanjust planted the first Merlot clones in the clay-rich soils of Feriale, unaware that he would create a legend. The name Galatrona – once the dominion of the Tuscan dynasty, whose medieval watchtower towers over the ten-hectare vineyard – was to become synonymous with Italian Merlot perfection. "Le Pin of Tuscany", as Wine Spectator calls it, but at a fraction of the price of this mythical Pomerol. The 50,000 vines on southeast-facing terraces combine Bordeaux genetics with Tuscan soul. Clay stores the moisture that Merlot needs in the hot summers, while slate, marl and sandstone provide the mineral complexity.

Ravera, located in the municipality of Novello, is one of the best Barolo vineyards that continues to surprise and impress despite the changing climate. Thanks to the high altitude and the open view of the snow-capped mountains, the microclimate is well ventilated but at the same time protected. Freshly cut flowers, white pepper and mint energise a wine that is now very shy and tightly wound. But it wouldn't be Ravera if pickled dark cherries, lavender, mint, crushed stones and sage weren't pouring out of the glass, creating a powerful, breathtaking Barolo endowed with great purity. A particularly stunning and breathtaking wine in the dream vintage of 2021. SUPERIORE.DE

Vietti's Brunate parcels are located on the La Morra side of the cru site. It was fermented in stainless steel and then transferred directly to large oak barrels to mature. Vietti's Brunate 2021 shows blue flowers, wild berries, wild cherry and truffle-infused earth. It reveals a slender but open-knit quality that can be felt in the mouth. This softness or textural silkiness continues for many long minutes with hints of mint, liquorice and camphor ash carefully distributed along the way. The tannins are polished and long. Very elegant. SUPERIORE.DE

Around 60% of the grapes for the Monvigliero are not destemmed, which enhances the aromatic nuances of the wine. The utterly enchanting 2021 Monvigliero is delicate and supple with aromas of cherries, boysenberries, violets and spices, with an excellent balance and a lingering aftertaste that reflects the main flavour themes. SUPERIORE.DE

Sergio Manetti, a steel entrepreneur from Florence, bottled his first wine in 1971 – a Chianti Classico from the two hectares of vines he had planted around his holiday home. A wine for friends and business partners, nothing more. He sent a few bottles to Verona for the big Vinitaly wine fair, more out of curiosity than ambition. The response was overwhelming. A hobby became a passion, a passion became a vocation. Until 1981, this wine bore the name "Chianti Classico Montevertine Riserva". Then came the break. Sergio Manetti refused to blend white Trebbiano into his Sangiovese, as prescribed by the Chianti Classico regulations. The decision cost him the DOCG – and made him a legend. From 1982, the wine was simply called "Montevertine", without any additions or compromises. A name that became the programme: Sangiovese in its purest, most traditional form, just as the old Chianti farmers would have made it before bureaucracy and commercialism wrote the rules. The wine comes mainly from a two and a half hectare plot facing south-southeast, planted in 1982 – in the year of the great rupture.

Sometimes the greatest things are born in the silence after loss. When Signora Marisa died in 2019, Giampaolo Motta wandered through his vineyards and felt an inspiration that would lead to the birth of his most spectacular work: Asiram – her name, read backwards, as an eternal tribute to the woman who laid the foundations for La Massa thirty years ago. This exceptional 100% Merlot comes from plot number 4 – a geological wonder of just half a hectare that has been telling a very special story since 1999. Here, in deep blue clay and calcareous slate, the same soil formation as Château Pétrus, the vines are rooted in layers of earth that have shifted over geological eras and give the wine its unique minerality. "This Merlot has always fascinated me with its uniqueness," explains Motta, "with its ability to fuse the characteristics of Merlot on clay and limestone." Vinification resembles a ritual of perfection: after obsessively rigorous selection, a seven-day cold maceration at 7°C takes place, followed by the gentlest extraction to maximise both volume and terroir signature. The wine matures for seven to eight months sur lie in 50% new barriques with regular bâtonnage, followed by a further 18 to 20 months in concrete and bottle.

Barolo Cerequio comes from vines that are over 35 years old. The vineyards were acquired by Michele Chiarlo in the 2010s through fortunate circumstances. The 2021 vintage confirms once again that the purchase of this vineyard was one of the smartest decisions Vietti has ever made. Cerequio is a wine of nuance and class that reflects the entire pedigree of this great site. Crushed red berry fruit, cherry, blood orange, spice and mint rise from the glass, framed by nervy tannins that convey classicism. An exotic, racy Barolo. SUPERIORE.DE

Intense, partly impenetrable ruby red. On the nose, warm, powerful notes that reflect the climate of the vintage and yet a delicate freshness. On the palate, ripe red fruit and spice, accompanied by deep floral notes, characterise the complex structure. Flattering, rich, enveloping and sweet thanks to the presence of ripe, dense and soft tannins. The balanced acidity contributes to the expressive taste and the long and extremely pleasant persistence. High seductive potential! SUPERIORE.DE