James Suckling

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been allowed to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive) introduced in 2021 on the labels of the top Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, it is a logical step to produce wines that reflect the area in which they were produced as authentically as possible. And customers can thus deepen their knowledge of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin - a real added value.

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been allowed to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive) introduced in 2021 on the labels of the top Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, it is a logical step to produce wines that reflect the area in which they were produced as authentically as possible. And customers can thus deepen their knowledge of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin - a real added value.

The latest addition to Vajra's Barolo line-up comes from a 1.5-hectare plot in Coste di Rose, a small MGA (Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive) in the Barolo region. This is a steep slope at 310 metres above sea level with a high proportion of sandy soils with good drainage, whose vines and soils are cultivated close to nature. This very accessible Barolo is straightforward, forward and impresses even at a young age with its refreshing candour. A very precise bouquet of cherry, plum, liquorice, spices and menthol, followed by a broad and multi-layered fruity palate with plenty of juice and power, supportive tannins and a full, long, mineral and minty finish. SUPERIORE.DE

In Franciacorta, Satèn stands for finesse under pressure – in both the literal and figurative sense. Ca' del Bosco interprets this style not as a sideline, but as an expression of refinement and sensory depth. The cuvée consists of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Bianco – a composition that combines freshness with a supple structure – grown in selected high-altitude vineyards on chalky soils, vinified with extreme precision and a tangible signature. The base wines ferment in small barriques and rest on the lees for several months before being blended and bottled. The second fermentation takes place at reduced pressure – maximum 5 bar – resulting in a particularly fine perlage. The wine then matures on the lees for four years, the dosage remains restrained and emphasises the natural elegance of the cuvée.

Top-class sparkling wine in the finest organic quality! Bolle di Borro – a new interpretation of Sangiovese. Il Borro has been producing a single-varietal Sangiovese sparkling wine using the so-called Champagne method (Metodo Classico) for a few years now. A fragrant, yeasty nose of small red berries and candied citrus peel. On the palate, bread, brioche, delicate Sangiovese fruit and a wonderfully creamy yet precise and crisp, very long finish. Elegance and finesse in purezza! SUPERIORE.DE

Vintage Collection dosage zéro is the purist expression of what Franciacorta can be – and Ca' del Bosco shows how far this claim can be taken when precision and patience work together. No dosage, no compromises – just the essence of grape, terroir and time. The cuvée of Chardonnay, Pinot Nero and Pinot Bianco comes exclusively from vineyards selected for their expression, depth and freshness. Hand-picked in small crates, gentle pressing, fermentation and ageing of the base wines in barriques – all under maximum oxidation protection. This is followed by tirage and maturation on the lees for over 48 months in the bottle. Disgorged without any added sugar – the pure backbone of the vintage.

In the heart of the northern Etna amphitheatre, where time seems to be carved in stone, lies Calderara Sottana, the realm of black stones. Here, at an altitude of 600 to 650 metres in the municipality of Randazzo, one of the geological mysteries of the volcano is revealed: a terroir so rich in stones that in the exemplary zones the ground disappears beneath the stones - fist-sized, light chunks of black pumice and basalt. The name Calderara refers to the heat that the black stones collect during the day and return to the earth during the cold nights. Marc de Grazia recognised Calderara Sottana as one of the three sacred contrade of the pure elliptical heritage – that precious geological legacy from the activity of the Ellittico crater 60,000 to 15,000 years ago. Of all the DOC Etna crus, these are certainly the stoniest soils, even stonier than the aristocratic San Lorenzo in the west. Here, ancient vines 50 to 100 years old take root in this mineral labyrinth of volcanic rock, where every plant fights for every centimetre of fertile soil.

As a result of extensive soil research, Francesco Ricasoli was able to identify three microlocations, which will be vinified separately from the 2015 vintage onwards. The range of Chianti Classico Gran Selezione now includes, in addition to the famous Castello di Brolio, three cru sites (Colledilà, Roncicone and Ceniprimo), all of which are 100% planted with Sangiovese. They differ in structure and taste in close correspondence with their terroir and impressively demonstrate the complexity of the Chanti Classico region.

As the Tuscan sun rises over the San Lorenzo Valley, it casts its golden light on the eighteen-year-old Pianigiani and Ricucci villas – the historic walls that gave this extraordinary Gran Selezione its name. It is a moment of silence before the story of a wine begins, which carries the quintessence of four legendary vineyards: Bellavista, Casuccia, San Lorenzo and Montebuoni. The 2021 vintage was a gift from nature to the winemakers of Chianti Classico. A rainy spring, which gave the vines the moisture they needed, was followed by a warm but not scorching summer. These climatic conditions gave the grapes a fullness and fleshiness that would later reveal itself in the glass as velvety opulence. Marco Pallanti, the driving force behind Castello di Ama since 1982 and former president of the Chianti Classico consortium, immediately recognised the extraordinary potential of this vintage.

As a result of extensive soil research, Francesco Ricasoli was able to identify three microlocations, which will be vinified separately from the 2015 vintage onwards. The range of Chianti Classico Gran Selezione now includes, in addition to the famous Castello di Brolio, three cru sites (Colledilà, Roncicone and Ceniprimo), all of which are 100% planted with Sangiovese. They differ in structure and taste in close correspondence with their terroir and impressively demonstrate the complexity of the Chanti Classico region.

When Luciano Sandrone bought his first vineyard in Cannubi Boschis in 1977 – financed with all his savings – and vinified the first bottle in his parents' garage a year later, nobody could have guessed that this humble beginning would grow into one of Barolo's most iconic wineries. After his death in 2024, daughter Barbara, brother Luca as Oenologist and wife Mariuccia continue the legacy today: 27 hectares between Langa and Roero, six wines of uncompromising quality that combine tradition and modernity in equal measure. The Barbera d'Alba, vinified from grapes from various plots in Monforte d'Alba and Novello, is more than just an accompanying wine – it is a statement that Sandrone devotes the same attention to each grape variety as he does to his legendary Barolo.

The Spuntali vineyard is historically known as the best area of the south-west, sea-facing slope of Montalcino. Spuntali is a historic cru for Brunello di Montalcino: it is its unique terroir, it is also the sunniest and driest of the three slopes of Brunello, and the sea, just 40 kilometres away, already provides a Mediterranean climate here.

Dear Aich – the name sounds like old South Tyrolean history, and that's exactly what it is. The Tenuta Lieben Aich in Terlan, at an altitude of 300 metres, was once part of the estate with which Hieronymus Manincor was rewarded for his services to Austria in 1608 and elevated to the nobility. The family has been producing wine for over 300 years. The "Man-in-cor" coat of arms – hand on heart – still adorns the façade of the ancestral home on Lake Kaltern. The south-west facing vineyards benefit from a warm, breezy microclimate and sandy soils of volcanic origin: porphyry weathered rock that combines minerality and drainage. 2023 presented the winegrowers with challenges – wet spring, hot and dry summer, then a golden autumn that allowed for perfect ripeness. Aromas, sugar and acidity were in perfect balance by mid-September. Yield: 41 hectolitres per hectare. The destemmed grapes macerate on the skins for twelve hours – an unusual step for white wine, which extracts flavour and structure from the skins. Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts takes place in wooden barrels, followed by ten months of ageing on the fine lees in large oak barrels.

Every year, Fratta is a groundbreaking blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that you can't help but love. Fratta proved the Veneto's potential for winemaking when it was first produced in 1977, the year Angela Maculan (a second daughter) was born. Deep, complex fruit bouquet, rounded off with fine sweet spices, tobacco and coffee. On the palate, beautiful lines and a sharp focus with dry mineral tones framing dark fruits, dried cherries and exotic spices. Fratta is a bold and big wine and there is no doubting the broodingelegance of this highly personalised expression. SUPERIORE.DE

Gulfi's top Pinò is a pure expression of Pinot Nero from Etna. When the Etna appellation began its rise about ten years ago, many producers committed themselves to growing the Burgundian grape variety on the charred slopes of this mighty volcano. Significant plantings of Pinot Nero never occurred, however, as many winemakers opted instead for the autochthonous Nerello Mascalese grape variety. Gulfi remains faithful to Pinot Nero on Etna, the grapes for Pinò come from 800 metres above sea level on the northern slope of the volcano.

This visionary wine comes from the legendary Conca d'Oro in Panzano and epitomises Giampaolo Motta's radical break with the traditions of Chianti Classico. The Neapolitan, who lost his heart to the Tuscan soil, took the courageous step of declassifying in 2002 – out of a burning desire for absolute oenological freedom. The cuvée combines Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon to create a Burgundian-Bordelaise dialogue that captures the mineral power of the Galestro and Alberese soils on a south-westerly slope. The wine is carefully vinified in French barriques for ten months "sur lie" with regular bâtonnage, giving the wine a wonderfully silky structure.

Passorosso is a single-varietal Nerello Mascalese that shows fine garnet-red reflections in its bright ruby red. Proud and fascinating, it presents an intense bouquet of red berries, coffee and olives. Its engaging taste convinces with clear, well-defined fruit and pronounced minerality. Graceful and special. SUPERIORE.DE

Argiano recently caused an international sensation with its Brunello 2018, when the renowned Wine Spectator ranked it as the 8th best wine in the world in 2023. It is fermented in cement tanks and matured slowly in oak wood; its fruit comes from a 22-hectare vineyard with limestone marl soils. Now comes the follow-up vintage, and it is not only very promising because it already perfectly reflects the extraordinary Montalcino year 2019 in its own unique way.

Poggio Landis Brunello Riserva from the dream vintage 2016 is rich in fascinating floral notes. This wine is a statement of elegance and sensory freshness. Elderflower, geranium, noble magnolia and camphor on the nose. Full-bodied, powerful and lively on the palate, it is bursting with vigour and healthy tension with fine-grained, velvety tannins and a long, ethereal finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Rampante lies high up on the northern slope of Mount Etna, at an altitude of around 1,000 metres – one of the coolest sites in Passopisciaro's portfolio. The vines grow on young, porous lava rock, which is rich in minerals and gives the wine a striking verticality and salinity. Nerello Mascalese shows its most delicate, tautest expression here. The vinification follows the usual house style: spontaneous fermentation, long maceration and approx. 18 months maturation in large, used wooden barrels.

The 30th anniversary vintage – and a Montevetrano that epitomises three decades of pioneering work in its stylistic precision and inner calm. Silvia Imparato has been combining the best of Mediterranean warmth and international finesse in this wine since 1991. 2021 brought ripe, healthy harvest, harvested in cool morning hours to preserve freshness and flavour density. Deep dark ruby with a youthful purple colour. The bouquet opens slowly, almost like a theatre curtain: blackcurrant, cherry, blackberry, fine herbal tones, cedar wood, dark chocolate and a hint of graphite. Superbly balanced on the palate – powerful, but not heavy, with fine-grained tannins and clear, juicy fruit, carried by a lively, perfectly proportioned acidity. Several months of ageing in French barriques adds subtle roasted flavours and depth of flavour without masking the terroir expression. Montevetrano 2021 is an anniversary that does not celebrate loudly, but with timeless elegance – a wine statement that tells a story and at the same time sets standards for the future. SUPERIORE.DE