Wines from Puglia

Under the name Askos, Li Veli summarises a project in which long-forgotten, indigenous grape varieties are rediscovered and cultivated on the ideal terroir selected for them. The red Susumaniello grape is said to originate from the nearby Dalmatian coast and is one of the most exciting grape varieties in Puglia today, even though it is rarely vinified as a single variety.

For over three decades, this Salice Salentino Riserva has been the undisputed flagship of Cantine Due Palme – and a wine that proves year after year that greatness and a co-operative structure need not be a contradiction in terms. The Tre Bicchieri of the Gambero Rosso? For Selvarossa, this has long been a subscription. No other Apulian red wine has won this top award so consistently, and at a price-pleasure ratio that even cuvées four times more expensive regularly fail to achieve. The story of Selvarossa begins shortly after the turn of the millennium, when Angelo Maci – fourth generation of an old winemaking family and founder of Due Palme – realised his vision of uncompromising quality production. What began in 1989 with fifteen members now unites over a thousand winegrowers who together cultivate 2,500 hectares of vineyards in the provinces of Brindisi, Lecce and Taranto. The name Selvarossa – "red forest" – refers to the characteristic red-coloured, clayey soils around Cellino San Marco, rich in minerals, graphite and iron oxides, which give the terroir its unmistakable character.

A name that doubles as a programme: the de Corato family and the Coratina olive variety not only share the same syllables, but also their homeland – the hills near Andria, where the Murgia slopes gently down to the Adriatic Sea. Here, in the shadow of Frederick II's legendary Castel del Monte, the family has been cultivating centuries-old olive groves since the 19th century. The Coratina is considered one of the most powerful varieties in Italy: rich in phenols, intense, with that distinctive bitter note that connoisseurs are looking for. Harvested by hand, cold-pressed on the day of harvest and matured for three months in glazed concrete tanks.

When the Antinori family founded their Apulian branch Tormaresca in 1998, they set an example: Southern Italy could deliver more than quantity. Torcicoda became proof of this vision – the first wine from Apulia to make it into the Wine Spectator Top 100. Its name refers to the historic grooming tool for horse manes, but also to the lush, twisting growth of the Primitivo vines, which were once called the "vine of three harvests".

An Aglianico from the south of Apulia – unusual in its origin, convincing in its expression. Dark wild berries, black cherry, a little dark chocolate and a hint of tar on the nose, accompanied by spicy nuances and Mediterranean herbs. Structured and powerful on the palate, with firm tannins, well-integrated acidity and a fine mineral vein. The ageing in barriques rounds off the texture without smoothing out the originality. Terra shows how much character Aglianico can also develop outside of its classic homeland: an independent, exciting wine with depth and regional character. SUPERIORE.DE

A Zinfandel with an Italian soul: Terra Nera Primitivo comes from organically farmed plots around Manduria, where old vines are rooted in red soil with limestone veins – a terroir that allows Primitivo (internationally: Zinfandel) to develop to its full potential. Rich purple in the glass with a garnet-red centre. The bouquet is dark, dense and multi-layered: blackcurrant, dried figs, dark chocolate, tobacco leaf, clove and a hint of graphite. Full-bodied on the palate, but not overloaded, with ripe fruit, balanced acidity and finely polished tannins. The use of wood remains discreet, the structure firm and the finish remarkably clear. An expressive, organically produced Primitivo from 60 to 70-year-old vines that skilfully combines power and precision! SUPERIORE.DE

The name reveals the concept: Cinquanta – fifty – stands for the fifty-fifty split between Primitivo and Negroamaro, the two leading grape varieties of Salento. With this cuvée, Cantine San Marzano, founded in 1962 as a winegrowers' cooperative and now one of the largest producers in Apulia with over 1,200 members, has created a wine with an immediate impact. The grapes come from vines of different ages on the iron oxide-rich terra rossa soils of the province of Taranto. After the harvest, maceration takes place at a controlled temperature, followed by twelve months of ageing in wooden barrels.

Il Falcone is a famous Riserva from the heart of the DOCG Castel del Monte, named after the famous hunting falcon of Emperor Frederick II. The Nero di Troia and Montepulciano grape varieties come from the best hillside vineyards at an altitude of 250 to 300 metres. After around 14 months of ageing in large wooden barrels and barriques, it presents a dark ruby colour with garnet-red reflections in the glass. Ripe blackberry, black cherry, tobacco leaf, some leather and balsamic herbs on the nose. Powerful yet finely balanced on the palate, with robust tannins, mineral tension and a spicy, long final. A serious, historic wine with elegance, structure and clear provenance. SUPERIORE.DE

F for Falò – bonfire. The name alludes to the traditional bonfires that are lit in Salento at the winter solstice. Cantine San Marzano dedicates a single-varietal Negroamaro to this custom, emphasising the dark, intense side of this indigenous grape variety. The grapes grow on the calcareous, iron oxide-rich soils between San Marzano di San Giuseppe and Sava. After manual harvesting, the grapes undergo prolonged maceration, followed by twelve months of ageing in Caucasian oak barrels – an unusual choice of wood that gives the wine its own aromatic signature.

Pietrabianca offers a contrast between richness and freshness and seduces with a blend of white flowers, almond paste, wet stone and crushed red pears. Silky and supple, it caresses the palate with an elegant wave of ripe peach and nectarine. Lingers long, leaving a mineral and acidic tension as notes of candied lime fade. Not only is it stunning today, but it has a bright future. SUPERIORE.DE

Puer Apuliae (son of Apulia) is what the De Coratos call their elegant and outstanding quality wine made from 100% Nero di Troia. The flagship in the cellar delights with its balsamic aroma, in which there is room for spices, plums, pickled nuts and black sultanas. The flavour is very concentrated yet juicy, full-bodied and dense, with a long finish and a lovely hint of cranberries and tobacco. SUPERIORE.DE

Gioia del Colle is an Italian municipality near Bari and probably the most famous DOC for Primitivo wines. The wines from this appellation embody a straightforward, fresh style and are far removed from the usual jammy suspects. The vines here grow at altitudes of up to 450 metres above sea level, the nights are cooler here than elsewhere in Apulia and the wines have a racier, tighter style and more structure than their namesakes.

Charismatic Negroamaro in an accessible and modern style without gimmickry. In the glass, dark lines of blackberries, plums and blackcurrants with generous background notes of chocolate, Indian spices, teriyaki and smoky barbecue sauce. Noble tannins and ripe fruit flavours form a wine that is both contoured and soft and yielding. Masseria Maime is ready to drink at a young age, but can safely mature for another five years or more. SUPERIORE.DE

An amazingly drinkyOttavianello that captures the wild character of Salento in a subtle way. The grapes come from old vines, selectively harvested and matured in barriques for twelve months. The colour in the glass is a light ruby with a transparent shimmer - light, yet full of expression. The nose is characterised by sour cherry, rosehip and delicate violet blossom, accompanied by spicy notes such as cinnamon and clove. Clear and fresh on the palate, with present but delicate acidity and silky tannins. The finish remains elegant, with spicy echoes and Mediterranean minerality. A bold representative of an almost forgotten grape variety - stylish, unusual, independent. For all those who are looking for the real thing and want to enjoy something beyond the usual. SUPERIORE.DE

Deep purple-red colour, distinctive bouquet that does not deny the Apulian home of the Susumaniello and enchants us with a stimulating freshness. Hints of ripe black cherries and fine spicy notes on the palate, dense, harmonious, long-lasting and with beautifully integrated tannins. An original, rustic flavour experience! SUPERIORE.DE

Orion here does not mean the constellation, but a border. The Greek "oros" means edge, dividing line – and that is exactly what this path once was: the ancient road that separated Byzantine lands from Lombard lands, today a quiet country lane right next to the Primitivo vineyards of Masseria Li Veli in Cellino San Marco. History you can feel under your feet. 100% Primitivo, harvested at the end of August, limestone-clay soils, 10 to 20 year old vines – partly Alberello, the ancient Apulian bush vine cultivation style. Fermentation in steel, six months in barrique. Roberto Cotarella holds the line.

The Donna Lisa vineyard is located in the heart of Salice Salentino. The Negroamaro vines are planted in the Pugliese Alberello – the old bush vine training style, which forces each vine to stand on its own. Around 7,000 vines per hectare, on average fifty years old. Those who have been standing in the Salento soil for so long have learnt to make a lot out of a little. Hand-picked at the end of September, maceration at a controlled temperature for at least 13 days, malolactic fermentation, then transferred to French barriques in spring – maturation for around 18 months, followed by at least six months in the bottle.

The Per Lui line does not begin in the cellar, but already on the vine. Before the harvest begins, the berry stalk of each bunch is tied off on the plant – the flow of juice is interrupted and the berry dries in a controlled manner on the living vine. An old Salento trick, here refined into a method: maximum concentration without a drying room, without intervention, just sun and time. 100% Primitivo, Alberello pugliese, argillo-limoso – loamy-silty soil that stores heat and releases it evenly. Vines around 35 years old, harvested in the second decade of September. Maceration for at least 20 days at a controlled 26–28°C, followed by several years in the bottle – no wood, only fruit.

There are wines that reinvent a region. Nero is one such wine – born from a vision of the Zecca brothers in the early 1980s, when they began experimenting with Cabernet Sauvignon at Tenuta Cantalupi near Salice Salentino. What initially seemed like a gamble turned out to be the most successful wine story in Apulia: the first Nero vintage in 1998 hit like a bomb and won the Tre Bicchieri of the Gambero Rosso for six consecutive years – an achievement that no other Apulian wine has ever equalled. The history of Conti Zecca dates back to 1580, when Francesco Antonio Zecca came from Naples to the fertile lands of Leverano, in the heart of Salento. For centuries, the Zeccas cultivated their vineyards with Negroamaro, Primitivo and Aglianico and became key figures in the European wine trade – relations between the Bourbon kingdom and France, England, Sweden and Denmark passed through their estate. In 1884, Pope Leo XIII awarded the family the title of Count in recognition of their services to the development of the territory. In 1935, Count Alcibiade Zecca founded the modern winery in Leverano and began to vinify his own wines. However, it was his heirs who took the decisive step of combining the indigenous Negroamaro with the international Cabernet Sauvignon.

Dunico – unique in the dunes. The name already reveals what distinguishes this wine from all other Primitivo: It comes from vineyards right on the coast, where sandy soils turn into dunes and the vines still grow on their original rootstock, ungrafted, ungrafted, like before the phylloxera catastrophe. It is an absolute rarity today, as most of these coastal vineyards fell victim to the "holiday home building frenzy". What remains are a few plots with ancient bush vines and extremely low yields, which produce a Primitivo of exceptional intensity and concentration. Sandy soil protects against phylloxera – and gives the wine a unique minerality and elegance that is rarely found in Primitivo. The grapes are harvest at the end of August, earlier than all other crus, as the grapes ripen more quickly here due to the proximity to the sea and the warmth of the sand.

1943 – the year in which Angelo Maci was born in Salento. It is therefore no coincidence that this wine bears his name: The "Rosso del Fondatore" is the personal project of the founder of Due Palme, an assemblage that he oversees himself and that expresses his own standards for Puglia. Primitivo and Aglianico in equal parts – two temperaments that complement each other. The Primitivo brings dark fruit and warmth, the Aglianico structure, acidity and length. The grapes are harvested late, fermented in steel and then aged for nine months in new barriques – followed by further bottle ageing. The numbered bottles are not a marketing gimmick: they are an expression of a wine that is owed and given attention.

A wonderfully mature Salice Salentino with character and depth: "Per Lui" Salice Salentino Riserva comes from selected Negroamaro plots that are deeply rooted in the iron-rich soils around Salice. The long maturation in wood - partly barrique, partly tonneau - gives the wine density and expression without jeopardising its balance. Dark ruby red in the glass with a light garnet-red rim. The aroma is warm and complex: black cherry, plum, dried herbs, some tobacco and a hint of cedar. Structured and powerful on the palate, with well-integrated tannins, juicy fruit and a spicy finish. An elegant, mature Salice Salentino that shows its finer, more serious side - very much in the style of the great wines of southern Puglia. SUPERIORE.DE

Selvarossa is a tribute to the autochthonous grape varieties of Salento: the Negroamaro – "niuru maru" in the dialect, "black bitter" – has been rooted in this soil for three thousand years and provides the dark, almost black depth of colour, the solid tannins and the bitter spiciness that justify its name. The Malvasia Nera provides a counterpoint of elegance and soft, velvety fruit. Both grape varieties are cultivated using the traditional Alberello system, the archaic bush training method without wire frames, which offers the vines protection from the scorching heat and naturally limits the yield. The grapes for the Selvarossa come from the oldest, most select plots and are harvested by hand in small crates when perfectly ripe, some even slightly overripe – some even slightly overripe to maximise concentration and sugar content.