Fontanabianca

Ruby with violet reflections. Round bouquet of elderberries, blueberry muffins and dried spices. Well-structured on the palate with a well-proportioned body, beautiful ripe tannins and a hint of delicate almond flavours in the round final. SUPERIORE.DE

In Neive, where the hills of Barbaresco gently undulate towards the horizon, the Pola family has been running the Fontanabianca winery since 1969. What Franco Pola started back then with the first bottle of Barbaresco Bordini is continued today by his son Aldo and grandson Matteo with the same conviction: quality is only created where the wine authentically reflects the terroir. On the limestone and clay soils of the municipality of Neive, 250 metres above sea level, the autochthonous grape varieties of Piedmont thrive in a temperate climate: Nebbiolo for the great Barbaresco wines, Dolcetto for uncomplicated pleasure and Barbera for the powerful elegance that has made this variety the region's most sophisticated popular grape.

There are wines that possess that unmistakable clarity that summarises the terroir in a nutshell. The classic Barbaresco from Fontanabianca is one such wine – composed from various parcels around Neive, vinified with the precision that Matteo Pola has made the philosophy of the house in the third generation. Where the single vineyards Bordini and Serraboella express the specific characteristics of their crus, this Barbaresco paints the bigger picture: 5.5 hectares on the typical limestone-clay soils of the municipality, 300 metres above sea level, where Nebbiolo has been developing the elegance that Neive stands for in the world of Barbaresco for generations.

With around two grams of residual sugar, this high-quality spumante from the Alta Langa, which was produced using the champagne method, is a particularly dry representative of its kind. The Chardonnay grapes come from clay and limestone terroir around 450 metres above sea level in the small municipality of Neviglie. Fresh and floral on the nose with beautiful citrus and subtle yeast notes. Fine perlage, harmonious on the palate with a fine creaminess and a multi-layered finish. SUPERIORE.DE

When Franco Pola bottled the first bottle of his Barbaresco Bordini in 1970, he not only wrote the beginning of a family story, but also symbolised the connection between man and vineyard that lasts for generations. The vineyard bears the same name as the street on which the winery stands – via Bordini 15 – and this geographical coincidence harbours a deeper truth: here, where the winery building looks directly onto the south-east-facing slope, family and terroir are inextricably interwoven. On sandy limestone/clay soil, 280 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo vines 50 to 60 years old take root – one hectare of which is even over 70 years old and ungrafted, a living link to the time when Franco's father Secondo still ran the farm as a farm.

Barbaresco Serraboella takes you on a fascinating journey to the cool, chalky slopes of Neive, where 30-year-old Nebbiolo vines are rooted in slatey clay and sandy soils. Here, Fontanabianca cultivates grapes with clear depth – vinified with respect for fruit, artisanal precision and the potential of the site. The 2021 vintage opens with gentle elegance. Supported by balanced summer conditions and cool nights, it produced grapes with balance and expression. The result is a multi-layered, elegantly composed framework built on its 12–15 months of ageing in wood without masking its finesse.

Some vineyards become the property of a family through strategic acquisition, others through a marriage that unites two Piedmontese families. When Aldo Pola took Luisella from nearby Serracapelli as his wife, this union not only brought two people together, but also the Pola family with the cru that is now one of the most sought-after in the municipality of Neive: Serraboella. Here, on calcareous soils of medium structure, 300 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo thrives in an interpretation that differs from the powerful Bordini – more reserved in its youth, almost shy, but with an elegance that comes to full fruition over the years. What Matteo Pola vinifies from the 30-year-old vines of this single vineyard is a Barbaresco of remarkable harmony – a wine that impresses not with its volume, but with the crystalline precision that characterises great terroirs.

Some wines are not created out of planning, but out of respect for what old vines can give. In Neive, where the Pola family has run the Fontanabianca winery since 1969, there is a plot of Barbera vines that have taken root in the limestone and clay soils for half a century. From these old vines – uncompromisingly selected and only vinified in exceptional vintages – brunet is the result: a Barbera wine of such concentration and structure that it redefines the conventional notions of this grape variety. The limited production is bottled exclusively in magnums, a format that gives the wine the space to develop that its density and complexity demand.