Wine Spectator

Sibi et paucis – for the few who understand that great wines are not in a hurry. Sandrone retains around 10 per cent of the production from each Aleste vintage and allows these bottles to mature for a full decade longer in his own cellar. What could have been released in September 2019 remains dormant until today – and is becoming something that goes beyond regular Barolo.

Biserno is more than just another Bordeaux blend in Tuscany. It is the essence of a place that cannot be tamed, but wants to be understood. Cabernet Franc forms the backbone – a grape variety that develops an unrivalled minerality in these marine soils. Merlot lends a velvety texture, while Cabernet Sauvignon and a hint of Petit Verdot complete the architecture. Every grape harvested by hand, every decision thought through down to the smallest detail by Helena Lindberg and Michel Rolland. 2021 was the year of perfect balance. A mild, wet winter caused the vines to sprout late, while a cool spring delayed development. But when the warmth arrived in late May and early June, life exploded in the vineyards. The summer, warm but not too hot, cool at night due to the salty breezes from the Tyrrhenian Sea, created ideal conditions for slow, even ripening. The harvest began early, at the end of August, and extended into October – time enough for each plot to find its perfect moment.

Just a few metres down the slope from the legendary Bricco Boschis lies a cru that was long overshadowed by its famous neighbour until Cavallotto recognised the potential of this unique location in 1989: the Vignolo. On 1.96 hectares of steep south-west-facing slopes, where 10,700 Nebbiolo vines planted in 1948 and 1966 are rooted in calcareous marl, a Barolo with a completely different personality is created – more elegant, more floral, more seductive than the powerful wines from Bricco Boschis. Vignolo embodies the feminine side of Cavallatto – a wine that does not impress through power, but enchants through finesse. The site, 60-80 metres lower than Bricco Boschis, benefits from a milder microclimate and a different geological composition, which produces wines with "soft and sweet" tannins – already accessible in their youth, but with the potential for decades of development.

At 618 metres above sea level, where the air already carries the coolness of the mountains and the view sweeps over the entire Chianti Valley, lies one of the most venerable vineyards in Tuscany: Coltassala – once born as a rebellious Supertuscan, today ennobled as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione from the UGA Radda, embodies the revolution and evolution of Tuscan viticulture like no other wine. In 1980, Federica Mascheroni Stianti's family took the plunge: when the DOC system was still forcing Trebbiano and Malvasia into Chianti, they pressed a pure Sangiovese wine up here in small barriques based on the French model instead of the traditional large Slavonia barrels. What was then still misjudged as Vino da Tavola heralded a new era. Today, with the new UGA rules of Chianti Classico (Unita Geografiche Aggiunte, in Germany one would say Lage, in France Cru), Coltassala is finally finding its well-deserved home – as a Gran Selezione from the Radda geographical unit, which stands for the most extreme and elegant expressions of Chianti Classico. The altitude gives the 2021 vintage that characteristic freshness that makes Radda so unique – despite the warm weather, the wine retains its crystalline acidity and vibrancy.

The grapes for the Annata, which was certified organic for the first time in 2020, come from a 13-hectare site at an altitude of 500 metres. The soils here are somewhat lighter and stonier than the average for the appellation, with slate-rich Galestro and calcareous Alberese. As always, Poggio Antico's 2020 vintage is authentic and classic, with bright fruit tones, wild cherries, roasted nuts, blue flowers and forest floor. While the other wines in the portfolio mature in smaller tonneaux, this wine is aged in large Slavonian barrels. We like the energetic lift and the simultaneous brightness of the fruit - the winery achieves this like no other. As the wine progresses, the approach is very delicate with a convincing intensity of floral aromas and a silky mouthfeel. A lively acidity ensures balance and freshness right to the end, while a salty, mineral note is added on the finish. As always, this Brunello from the best winery is a safe bet! SUPERIORE.DE

There are moments in the life of a winemaker when past and present merge in a magical way. For Matteo Ascheri, Barolo Ascheri is such a moment – a wine that comes from the vineyard that not only bears his name, but is also the cradle of his family. It was here, in the Località Ascheri in La Morra, that the history of a winegrowing dynasty that is now one of the most respected in the whole of Piedmont began in the early 19th century. The MGA Ascheri is located on the gently sloping southern slopes of La Morra, at an altitude of 350 metres, where the fertile soils of clay, limestone marl and sand produce the lush fruitiness for which La Morra is famous. When Matteo vinified a separate Barolo from this two-hectare vineyard for the first time in 2010, it was more than just an oenological decision – it was a return to the roots, a tribute to the ancestors who once laid the foundations for the family heritage here.

The grapes for this wine come mainly from a vineyard in the north-east of Montalcino with Galestro soils at an altitude of 330 to 480 metres above sea level. In addition to five different sites there, the Neri family also owns three vineyards in the south between the villages of Sant'Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell'Abate. L'Etichetta Bianca, as this Brunello is called, is medium-bodied and noble and offers bright, fresh red cherry flavours. Hints of rust and warm stone as well as subtle sweet spices add complexity. Tactile but fine, sandy tannins give it the necessary grip, the finish is delicately salty, lively and fragrant. A classic from one of the best houses in the appellation. SUPERIORE.DE

NA for Nals, MA for Margreid. A tribute to two outstanding vineyards where something special can be felt, seen and felt and which have inspired cellar master Harald Schraffl to create something equally special from their grapes. A wine and the essence that expresses the essence of the small parcels in its purest form, whose typicity tells the story of the South Tyrol of tomorrow, a timeless wine with recognition value in an international context.

Il Caberlot is normally only bottled in magnum format. Here we offer a few bottles from a small edition, which were bottled in the 0.75 litre bottle (demi-magnum) with the addition of the name "Sommelleria" especially for restaurants.

Guidalberto bears the name of a man who shaped the Bolgheri landscape forever in the early 19th century: Guidalberto della Gherardesca, the visionary agricultural pioneer who created the famous cypress avenue – the Viale dei Cipressi – was created. What was initially intended as a practical demarcation between different areas of cultivation became the iconic silhouette of an entire region. 2023 marks a turning point for this exceptional wine. For the first time, Tenuta San Guido is positioning its Guidalberto separately from the legendary Sassicaia – a deliberate move to demonstrate that this is not a "second wine", but an independent interpretation of the Bolgheri terroir. As Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta puts it: "You can't compare them. They are completely different worlds." The 2023 vintage is a synthesis of 55 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 45 per cent Merlot. While the Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure and depth, the Merlot brings the silky texture and accessible sweetness that makes Guidalberto so distinctive. Fifteen months in French and American barriques give the wine its characteristic balance between strength and elegance.

Guado al Tasso presents itself with a warm-toned bouquet and an abundance of fruit that is just as convincing as its harmonious structure. Deep, dark, rich ruby-purple colour. Very clear and intense nose, with aromas of blackberries, cassis and dark cherries, underpinned by fine, spicy notes with hints of white pepper and leather. Very juicy on the attack and on the palate, with plenty of sweet flavour, elegant tannins and a very long finish. A finesse-rich red that offers maximum drinking pleasure and great ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

What comes after perfection? Gianfranco Fino has found an answer. Today, the winemaker cultivates fourteen plots of land around Manduria, each with its own character, each vinified separately. At the end of each vintage, he stands in the cellar between his barriques and tastes. He is not looking for the best – he looks for what touches him most deeply. "Che più ha emozionato", as he calls it. In 2019, there were five barrels that he couldn't let go of. These five barriques come from the estate's oldest vineyard: ninety-year-old Alberello vines, whose gnarled trunks rise barely knee-high from the red clay soil. Four hundred grams of grapes per vine – a blink of an eye yield for an explosion of concentration. After slight over-ripening on the vine, the grapes are harvested by hand, selected again in the cantina and then fermented on the skins for three to four weeks. The wine rests for twelve months in French oak before being bottled. A further forty-eight months of bottle ageing follow before a single bottle leaves the winery.

The Vigna del Sorbo vineyard is located directly in front of the winery. The south-west facing vineyard with Galestro soils covers 8 hectares at an altitude of 450 metres. The Riserva was first produced in 1985 and has been labelled Gran Selezione since the 2010 vintage.

Almost every year, Barolo Campè takes top places among its high-calibre competitors. Fittingly, the majestic red wine bears the king of beasts, a lion, on its ornate yellow label. We think: There could hardly be a better graphic interpretation of this deep and stately wine. An all-round successful experience. Aromas of flowers and berries on the nose, with notes of vanilla and a hint of rosebud, full-bodied and very concentrated, with great, initially still chewy tannins and a long, powerful final. SUPERIORE.DE

Fine, silky tannins frame a core of crushed berries, flowers, liquorice and new leather. The wine's inner extract sweetness reveals itself only with time of aeration, adding harmony and class. Already today, a super-elegant and at the same time refined and open Brunello presents itself, which always remains graceful and fresh at the same time, despite all its fruit fullness. Our perspective: With increasing bottle maturity, the drinking pleasure of this first-class Sangiovese increases even more! SUPERIORE.DE

Le Volte dell'Ornellaia is far more than just an entry-level wine – it is the stylistic calling card of an icon that has been setting standards in Bolgheri since 1981. While Ornellaia itself is one of the most sought-after wines in Italy, Le Volte embodies the same philosophy and relentless pursuit of perfection, only in a more accessible form. The name – the vaults – refers to the historic cellar vaults of the estate, where the great vintages have already matured. As the third wine from Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, it combines Mediterranean expressiveness with the structural complexity that has made the estate famous.

Luigi Moio is one of the most famous professors of viticulture and oenology in Italy and the Cru Vigna Quintodecimo is indisputably one of the most exciting and complex Taurasi Riserva in Campania. This wine possesses a unique and seductive class, a richness and elegance that outshines the entire volcanic appellation. The initially restrained bouquet only gradually opens up in layers, releasing new impressions every minute. Violets, ripe blackberries, blueberry skins, plums and white smoke unfold like a surprise bag and are reflected in the energetic mouthfeel together with finely woven tannins and a fresh interplay of fruit and acidity. The texture is impressively silky and emphasises the immense elegance and harmony of this exceptional Aglianico, which will reach its most exciting phase in 10-15 years at the earliest. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Prapò comes from Serralunga d'Alba and is, as expected, the most powerful and structured of the various single-vineyard wines from this ambitious estate. At the same time, it is also the most closed at the beginning and, with its introverted nature, is made for a long ageing period. This site is one of the last where the grapes ripen, giving them plenty of time to develop slowly and carefully each year.

Named after the quartz speckles in the volcanic porphyry rock of Terlan, the most famous Sauvignon Bianco in Italy lives up to its name. Sparkling yellow-green in colour. Filigree, delicately scented with grapefruit, peach, honey and green papaya. Quartz is taut and precise, with a fleshy, creamy texture, great depth and a wonderful mineral-salty finish. Must have and must taste! SUPERIORE.DE

Tenuta Tignanello is located in the heart of Chianti Classico on the gentle hills between the valleys of the Greve and Pesa rivers and comprises 319 hectares of land, of which around 130 are planted with vines. The estate's vineyards include two jewels: Tignanello and Solaia, which are located on the same hill, on calcareous and schistose marl soils of marine origin from the Pliocene, and which benefit from warm days and fresh nights during the growing season. Two wines are produced from these vineyards, which many years ago had the potential to become the starting point of the Italian wine renaissance. Nothing has changed to this day.

The already very well-balanced and classic 2018 vintage can gain again with Fuligni, because no Riserva was produced. Ruby red with orange reflections. On the nose, after some aeration, ripe morello cherries, violets, roses and lots of Mediterranean scrub. Powerful on the palate, the silky tannins give it elegance and the necessary balance, its complexity comes to the fore with every sip. This very authentic and strongly focused Brunello can be counted among the best of the vintage, its wonderfully balanced proportions and its juiciness will give it further impetus in the coming years. SUPERIORE.DE