Girolamo Russo

When Giuseppe Russo talks about his rosato, his eyes light up with the same intensity as the powder-pink glow that settles over the Contrada San Lorenzo in the early days of October. Here, where eighty-year-old Nerello Mascalese vines are rooted in volcanic soil at an altitude of 700 metres, one of Italy's most elegant rosés is created – born from the perfect balance between timing and technique. The magic begins with the early manual harvest, when the grapes have that crystalline freshness that only the cool Etna nights can give. Giuseppe uses a traditional vertical press in which the whole grapes are gently pressed for five hours – long enough to extract the delicate colour, short enough to preserve the mineral elegance. No maceration on the skins, no artificial intervention: just the natural connection between grape and volcanic terroir. After spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, the wine matures for six months in stainless steel, where it develops its characteristic finesse.

Buried in the volcanic sandy soils of Passopisciaro lies a history that goes deeper than the roots of the centuries-old Nerello vines. À Rina – "Sand" in the Sicilian dialect – not only bears the name of this unique land, but also the longing of a son who wanted to create a monument to his father. When Giuseppe Russo founded the winery in 2005 and dedicated it to Girolamo, he did so with the painful knowledge: "My father was not lucky enough to experience this transformation and see his name on a wine." What followed was no ordinary wine story, but the metamorphosis of a pianist into the poet of the volcano. Giuseppe, who once studied Liters, returned to the vineyards of his childhood – not out of a sense of duty, but out of a deep realisation: these ancient Alberello vines between 650 and 780 metres above sea level carry the memory of his family. Here, where black lava slag and sand compose a symphony of minerality, he understood his true calling.

Above the cellar walls of Passopisciaro lives a woman whose stories are older than the centuries-old vines she can see from her window every day. Nerina Russo, mother of Giuseppe and widow of the late Girolamo, is more than just the namesake of this extraordinary white wine – she is the living heart of a family that has given Etna all its devotion. At harvest time, when their famous dishes mingle the flavours of the kitchen with those of the fermenting grapes, it becomes clear that wines are made here out of love, not just passion. Giuseppe has created a monument to his father with the winery, but has dedicated the wine that perhaps best expresses the essence of his family to his mother. Nerina embodies the soul of the Sicilian white wine tradition – a harmonious union of all the autochthonous grape varieties of Etna, which once thrived together in the mixed vineyards of the Contrade. Seventy per cent Carricante forms the backbone, while thirty per cent Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico, Minnella and Coda di Volpe provide the multi-layered complexity that can only come from centuries-old winemaking wisdom.

Contrada Feudo is located on the northern slope of Mount Etna at an altitude of around 650 metres, where the vines are rooted in volcanically mixed, sandy and stony soils. Some of the plots with Nerello Mascalese are over 70 years old and deliver concentrated but cool fruit year after year. 2021 was a classic vintage on Etna with a pronounced balance: not too hot, not too humid – ideal conditions for a precise style. The wine is aged for around 16 months in used tonneaux, which emphasises the characteristics of the vineyard and refines the tannin structure.

Giuseppe Russo cultivates part of the 12-hectare San Lorenzo vineyard at an altitude of around 750 metres on the slopes of Mount Etna near Randazzo. The lava flows of recent decades have created a porous soil here, rich in volcanic rock and therefore providing excellent drainage.

Bright ruby red colour. Refined raspberry and red cherry on the nose, with notes of quinine and flowers that develop with further aeration. Fresh flavours of red berries and smoked beef, with hints of violets and orange zest. Almost exotic on the palate with plenty of luscious extract sweetness and fine tannins and a fresh, mineral, dry finish. An exceptional red wine with a terrificarc of tension! SUPERIORE.DE

This magnificent Etna Bianco reflects the mineral profile of its origin with clarity and authenticity. It grows in the Contrada Feudo near Randazzo, at an altitude of around 650 metres, where volcanic soils with grey ash and lapilli give it a clear structure of origin. The year 2023 was balanced and cool on Etna – ideal conditions for relaxed ripening with a clear freshness. The grapes were harvested early and come partly from terraces with decades-old vines. The vinification combines a classic stainless steel tank approach with six months of ageing in tonneau – a mix that combines fullness, varietal purity and fine flavour.

Around 2,000 bottles of this single-vineyard wine are sold each year. Extremely complex bouquet of blackberry, blackcurrant and sour cherry, with perfectly integrated notes of Mediterranean herbs. Broad and elegant on the palate, supported by a delicate acid wire that makes it fresh and lively. A great wine with excellent structure and remarkable persistence and depth of flavour. SUPERIORE.DE

There are stories that the volcano itself has written – with fire, time and the inexorable force of geological eras. Feudo di Mezzo is one such story: once a coherent contrada, it was torn in two by Etna's explosive fury and has borne its name ever since, like a reminder of that night when glowing lava flows divided the land and "di Mezzo" – in the centre – a place between two worlds. Giuseppe Russo has created his most complex and ambitious red wine from this dramatic testimony to the terroir. He selected just 0.76 hectares of the very best plot for this extraordinary wine, where hundred-year-old Nerello Mascalese vines sink their gnarled trunks into the volcanic earth like sculptures. Here, at an altitude of 670 metres in Castiglione di Sicilia, the unique microclimate that prompted the ancient Greeks to plant their first vines here prevails. A terroir so extraordinary that history itself has chosen it as a wine-growing region.

At an altitude of 750 metres, where the boundaries of the Etna DOC end in the cold north-west of the volcano, lies a hidden geological secret that only three of the hundreds of contrade on Etna can lay claim to. In its sandy soils, San Lorenzo bears the pure legacy of the Ellittico volcano – the ancient eruption centre whose explosive activity 60,000 years ago created a terroir purity that is now one of Sicily's rarest treasures. Giuseppe Russo is aware of this peculiarity when he cultivates the precious white vines that have been sinking their roots into these elliptical volcanic sands for eighty years among the centuries-old Nerello vines of his red Contrada wines. Here, where Etna sends its coldest winds over the vineyards and time is measured in geological epochs, white wines are produced with a minerality that only this unique combination of ancient lava and extreme altitude can produce.

There are wines that exist and those that are virtually unavailable. Piano delle Colombe belongs to the second category – a "phantom wine" made from 750 bottles, a myth made of glass and time, a dream that only materialises for a select few. In the most sublime parcel of the prestigious Contrada San Lorenzo, on just 4,000 square metres of volcanic soil, Giuseppe Russo has created a wine that blurs the boundaries between reality and legend. The name tells a story that is as poetic as the wine itself: Girolamo, Giuseppe's father, claimed with a mischievous smile that the pigeons – "colombe" – always came to this small, flat area of the contrada to steal the very best grapes. "They have better taste than we do," he used to say as he watched the little thieves make their selection among the ancient Alberello vines. What began as a family anecdote became the name of a wine that is now one of the most sought-after treasures in the whole of Etna.