Lazio

Around 300 bottles. No more. Anyone who knows the Etichetta Nera knows: you don't just buy it like that – you get it if you're lucky. The Syrah on the black label grows on a single hectare in Blera, 380 metres above sea level, exposed to the south-east, on heavy clay with rock inclusions. The same vineyard from which Emanuele Pangrazi and Marco Casolanetti have always distilled their Syrah fraction for the Habemus blend – the part that Pangrazi once described as the "mouth of Habemus": the fleshy, the dark, the substantial. What used to carry the body of the blend stands alone here for the first time.

One hectare. 13,000 vines. 1,000 bottles. You don't really need to say more – and yet that would be too little. The Cabernet Franc of Etichetta Rossa grows on a single vineyard in Blera, south-east facing, 380 metres above sea level, heavy clay soils with stone inclusions. The planting density – 13,000 vines per hectare – exceeds even the already extreme density of the other San Giovenale plots. Each plant fights for water, light and space. The yield is 12 quintals per hectare – half as much as the Habemus Bianca. What remains is concentrated to the limit of what is possible.

If Syrah is the mouth of Habemus, then Grenache is its nose. This is how Emanuele Pangrazi himself described it one afternoon in the Bottaia of Blera, when he drew directly from the barrel with a pipette and placed two glasses next to each other: one almost black, the other bright ruby red, almost transparent. Two worlds, one terroir. The Etichetta Blu is pure Grenache – and it is the most sensitive, aromatically rich and surprising wine in the San Giovenale portfolio. The same vineyards in Blera, the same clay soils with stone inclusions, the same altitude of 300 to 400 metres, the same oceanic breeze from the Tyrrhenian Sea. The same extreme planting density, the same organically certified work without chemicals or synthesis. And yet: a completely different result.

A white wine as a final. Production: 500 bottles per vintage. Anyone who only knows San Giovenale from its reds will pause for a moment here – and then realise that this winery has always thought bigger than the obvious answer. The story of "Oro" begins in 2013, not in the vineyard, but in a laboratory. Emanuele Pangrazi collaborated with ARSIAL, the scientific research institute of the Lazio region, to test whether Marsanne and Roussanne – the great white grape varieties of the northern Rhône, home to Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage – could thrive in Tuscia. The result of this experiment was clear: yes. The dry climate of Blera, ventilated by the Tyrrhenian Sea, the heavy clay soils, the altitude – everything fitted. It was the first time that these varieties had ever been planted in Lazio.

Ogrà, named after the family's grandmother, is the result of many years of experimentation and experience with the interaction of microclimate and terroir on the best possible development of the Syrah grape. Finally, the family vineyard Castiglione in Teverina was chosen, from whose volcanic soils the grapes for the just 3,000 bottles of this rare exceptional Syrah come.