“Camartina” Rosso Toscana IGT 2021 (BIO)

Agricola Querciabella | Tuscany
Soc. Agr. Querciabella S.p.A. | Via di Barbiano 17 | IT 50022 Greve

09442121 · 0,75 l · 114,67 €/l · Price (DE) incl. VAT, excl. Shippingavailable immediately

Some wines embody the history of an entire movement. Camartina is one of that handful of Tuscan icons that changed everything in the early 1980s – those rebellious Super Tuscans that paid no heed to the strict rules of Chianti Classico and instead pursued their own vision of greatness. 1981 saw the birth of Camartina, and with this wine, Querciabella not only laid the foundations for its own success but also made Italian wine history. The name itself says it all: a fusion of "Casaocci" – the first office on the first hectare of vineyard – and "Martina", the younger daughter of Giuseppe Castiglioni, the visionary founder. What began as a Sangiovese-dominated blend has undergone a fascinating evolution over the decades. Today, Cabernet Sauvignon is the clear protagonist, accounting for seventy per cent, whilst Sangiovese, at thirty per cent, contributes that elegant Tuscan linearity which sets Camartina apart from other Super Tuscans. The reason lies in the vineyards of Ruffoli near Greve in Chianti, where Cabernet has found a home on the arid sandstone soils that lend it an unusual finesse – lighter, more refined and sophisticated than elsewhere.

The vineyards lie close together, each plot with its own character: Casaocci Sud, with its Galestro soils and southerly aspect, produces textbook Cabernet of silky elegance. Poggerino, with its cooler, clay-rich soils, gives the Cabernet backbone and that depth which lends Camartina its legendary ageing potential. The Sangiovese grows in selected sites between 350 and 600 metres, where galestro and clay at lower altitudes lend elegance, whilst higher up the sandstone dominates, giving the Sangiovese a juicy vitality. Organically farmed since 1988, and consistently plant-based and biodynamic since 2000 – Querciabella was a pioneer long before sustainability became a trend. The grapes are harvested by hand, only in optimal vintages, and vinified in very small batches using micro-vinification techniques. Destemmed but not crushed, they ferment in temperature-controlled stainless steel or concrete tanks, before the Cabernet and Sangiovese are aged separately for 18 months in French barriques – the Cabernet inLiters, the Sangiovese inLiters tonneaux. Camartina only leaves the estate after at least 30 months. Just 10,000 bottles a year, vegan, uncompromising.

In the glass, the 2021 vintage shows why Daniele Cernilli awarded it 98 points with a "Doppio Faccino": Dark, juicy fruit – blackcurrant, blackberry, plum – blends with myrtle, delicate floral notes and hints of warm spices, herbs and mint. The Cabernet, which reached perfect ripeness in 2021, slowly reveals its savoury character and drives both the aromatic profile and the opulent structure. On the palate, then, comes the real revelation: there is none of the muscular power found in many Super Tuscans. Instead, Camartina captivates with the very finesse that defines Querciabella's signature style – supple, precise, with a lively structure and fine, integrated tannins that carry the long, earthy finish like a delicate thread right through to final. Jancis Robinson could not hide her enthusiasm when she tasted a 17-year-old Camartina: "Oo, that is rather lovely!" Camartina may no longer be the most powerful Super Tuscan today – but it is perhaps the most elegant. The Musigny amongst the Tuscan rebels, a wine that proves that greatness does not always mean power, but sometimes simply perfection. SUPERIORE.DE

"A rich, vibrant ruby red. A full and inviting nose, with aromas of dark redcurrants, blackberries and black cherries, underpinned by blood orange. On the palate, it displays plenty of fine-grained, very well-integrated tannins and plenty of juicy fruit, with subtle earthy notes on final and a rich, full-bodied structure." Falstaff

"Clean and juicy, with aromas of blackcurrants, cassis, blackberries and pomegranate, underpinned by notes of violets, graphite and cedarwood. Beautifully balanced and concentrated, with lively acidity and refined tannins. An outstanding finish." Wine Spectator

"The Camartina 2021 is a powerful, dense wine. Blue-tinged fruit, graphite, dried cherries, mocha and new leather are gradually coming to the fore. The 2021 is somewhat compact at present, but I see this as a positive sign for its long-term prospects. harvestwill need to be patient with this elegant, refined wine." Vinous

"A restrained wine with subtle aromas of licorice, graphite and hints of leaves and balsamic. Medium- to full-bodied with firm, dusty, velvety yet ripe tannins, crisp lifted acidity and an elegant, long-lasting finish of cherry pits. Vegan. From organically grown grapes." James Suckling