wine classics

An elegant, finely sparkling and invigorating Prosecco Brut with irresistible charm. Straw yellow, crystal clear and clean, with fresh aromas of white peach and apple, wonderfully light, yet precise, fruity and with a fine salty note on the palate. SUPERIORE.DE

Il Randagio (the stray) is wonderfully complex and nuanced. Initially quite closed, the delicately spicy nose creeps up with increasing aeration and opens up further into a wonderfully complex bouquet of dark red to black berries. Rising floral, savoury and spicy accents point to a wine that says more about the style of the house than anything else. The palate is wide-ranging with delicate wild berry flavours, perfectly polished tannins and a fresh, very invigorating acid wire that uninhibitedly enhances the drinkability of this once again typically different red. The best days of this wine still lie in the future. SUPERIORE.DE

Demesse Vecchie is named after the village where Olivini has its family seat. The historic part of the vineyard was home to a nunnery in the late 17th century. The addition "vecchie" promises that the grapes for this very complex Lugana come from the estate's oldest vines, some of which are over 50 years old. They are also harvested late and carefully selected, after which they are matured on the fine lees for several months.

Swiss precision meets Tuscan passion: since 1990, Monika and Thomas Baer-Bettschart have been realising their dream at the Antico Podere Gagliole in Castellina in Chianti. Rubiolo is the certified organic tribute to over three decades of winegrowing in one of Tuscany's most beautiful terroirs. Made exclusively from Sangiovese grapes sourced from both the historic terraces around Castellina and the famous Conca d'Oro in Panzano, this wine embodies the synthesis of two exceptional vineyards.

With the Brolettino, Ca’ dei Frati showcases the powerful, mature side of Lugana. The Turbiana grapes come from older vines, whose deep-reaching roots lend the fruit exceptional concentration. After fermentation, the wine matures for several months in barriques, which lends it additional structure and depth. In the glass, it is a bright straw yellow with golden highlights. On the nose, ripe yellow fruits, pineapple, apricot and candied lemon, accompanied by subtle notes of vanilla and almond. On the palate, it is creamy and full-bodied, with elegant oaky notes, subtle minerality and harmoniously integrated acidity. The finish is long, smooth and characterised by a delicate creaminess. A very distinguished Lugana, combining richness and elegance, which is superb both when young and after a few years’ bottle ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

Since 1141, the Ricasoli family has shaped the history of Chianti Classico – longer than any other winery in Italy. In 1872, Baron Bettino Ricasoli defined the legendary Chianti formula, which remains in force to this day. Rocca Guicciarda was once one of Barone most important feudal estates and today embodies the classic interpretation of this tradition-steeped appellation. The grapes for this Riserva come from vineyards situated on the five most representative soil types of Brolios, at altitudes ranging from 280 to 480 metres: Macigno del Chianti (sandstone), Scaglia Toscana (galestro), Monte Morello (alberese), as well as marine and fluvial deposits, create a complex mosaic of terroirs. 90% Sangiovese forms the backbone, complemented by 5% each of Merlot and Canaiolo. Following controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks with 14 to 16 days' contact with the skins, the wine matures for 21 months in tonneaux and large casks. The result is a Chianti Classico of an intense ruby red colour with subtle garnet hues, whose bouquet combines ripe red fruits, raspberry, pomegranate and delicate spicy notes. On the palate, it displays its traditional character: juicy, with notes of red berries, fresh acidity and silky tannins – a versatile wine to accompany food, offering well-balanced drinkability. SUPERIORE.DE

Tenuta Sansonina is situated in the south of Lake Garda, not far from Sirmione – where the lake breathes across the hills and the soils tell the story of what the last Ice Age left behind: A deep, clayey mixture of chalk and silt that stores water, buffers heat and gives the Turbiana grape that distinctive minerality which sets Lugana apart from everything else. Thirteen hectares, organically farmed, with vines around sixty years old – vines that know just how deep they need to reach. 100 per cent Trebbiano di Lugana, hand-harvested and carefully selected before the grapes reach the winery. The must is first cold-fermented statically, then ferments for around ten to twelve days in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. Six months’ ageing in stainless steel tanks, followed by one month in the bottle: no oak, no interference, just the wine and its terroir.

Istine's Chianti Classico is, year after year, one of the most spirited and authentic examples of its kind. Its lightness and, at the same time, precision account for much of its appeal. A finely woven bouquet of red berries, flowers, chalk and white pepper. Medium-bodied on the palate; with further aeration, its delicate fruit, creamy tannins and plenty of character come to the fore. A red that takes hearts by storm with its lively, dancing quality and exquisite finesse! SUPERIORE.DE

The cork oaks still grow on the hills of Gavorrano today – silent, gnarled, enduring. They gave this wine its name. "Le Sughere": the cork oaks. A tribute to the landscape that supports and characterises this estate, long before a Renzo Piano wine cellar was dug into the rock here. The wine itself is the second label of Rocca di Frassinello – and what Oenologist Alessandro Cellai could call the heart of the estate: not the grand gesture, not the introduction, but the substance. Sangioveto, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot – the same triad as in the entire estate, the same philosophy of the link between Tuscany and Bordeaux. But this is where the wood comes in for the first time. Twelve months in partly new barriques, then nine months in the bottle: patience as a method.

Lugana as a sparkling wine? The idea sounds unusual, but Sergio Zenato had been pursuing it ever since the winery was founded in the 1960s. He recognised early on that Trebbiano di Lugana, with its delicate acidity and aromatic purity, offers ideal conditions for traditional bottle fermentation. Hand-harvested in mid-September, gently pressed as whole bunches, fermented with natural yeasts at 16°C in stainless steel. Then comes the crucial step: the second fermentation in the bottle according to the Metodo Classico – the same process used in Champagne. The spumante matures sur lie for a full 24 months before remuage and dégorgement release its delicate aromas.

A wine that made history. When the first vintage of La Selvanella Riserva was presented in 1969, it was a revolution in Chianti Classico – the very first cru from a single vineyard in the entire region. Today, over 50 years later, this Sangiovese classic is still regarded as a benchmark for the elegance and purity of the Radda terroirs. The 50 hectares of the La Selvanella vineyard sit at an altitude of 350 to 550 metres above Radda in Chianti in one of the most privileged positions in the entire region. Wines of exceptional structure and lively acidity are produced here. The perfect south-west exposure and the temperate continental climate create ideal conditions for the capricious Sangiovese to develop its full aromatic complexity.

Riserva does not simply mean more time in Gracciano. It means different soil. The Maramai and Podere Rovisci crus provide the grape material for this wine – and Rovisci is the core of the whole: heavy clay content, brooding, water-retaining, with a ripening dynamic that elicits the densest, most concentrated side of the Prugnolo Gentile. Vines, some of which have been planted since 1970. 300 to 350 metres, south to south-east exposure, 30 hectolitres per hectare – consistently limited yields. Only in the best vintages does the della Seta Ferrari Corbelli Greco family decide to bottle a Riserva. 2021 was such a year. Prugnolo Gentile 90%, Merlot 10%. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts, 20 to 25 days of maceration in steel. Then aged for 24 months: the first twelve in French tonneaux of 3.5 and 5 hectolitres, the second twelve in large Slavonian oak barrels. Subsequent maturation in the bottle for at least six months.

This red classic from Montepulciano already bears its claim in its name: nobile. No other wine in Italy has this adjective written into its specifications – and hardly any other producer has honoured it as consistently in recent decades as Federico Carletti and his Poliziano winery. Founded in 1961 by father Dino, today under Federico's leadership and long since anchored in the next generation – with Francesco and Maria Stella, who have been helping to shape the future since 2019 and 2021. Poliziano has been certified organic since the 2021 harvest – not a marketing decision, but the logical conclusion of decades of work without chemical weedkillers and insecticides. Prugnolo Gentile, the local variety of Sangiovese, grows on clay and limestone soils between 300 and 450 metres above sea level. Hand-picked, careful selection in the vineyard and in the cellar, fermentation with indigenous yeasts in conical concrete vats – minimum intervention, maximum expression. Maturation in large barrels and tonneaux: the wood frames, it does not dominate.

Tasting the Riserva from Fattoria del Cerro takes you stylistically to those higher vineyard sites where fossil-rich soils full of pebbles and ancient shell remains lend the Prugnolo Gentile a special mineral depth. The crowning glory of the Montepulciano hierarchy is created from these favoured plots – a wine that requires time and patience to reveal its multi-layered nature. After careful selection, the wine undergoes 18 months of refinement, combining tradition and innovation: Eight months in French barriques and tonneaux, followed by a further twelve to sixteen months in large wooden barrels. This combination creates a character of remarkable elegance and the wood integrates seamlessly without overshadowing the varietal fruit. A final twelve months of maturation in the bottle completes the harmonious development.

Le Redini Rosso consists mainly of Merlot and a small proportion of Alicante. The wine opens with dark intensity and a velvety texture with lots of fresh blackberry, plum, earth and wild rose. Pure red fruit on the palate, very supple, the delicate wood note well integrated. The refined notes of a Merlot from the Conca d'Oro come across wonderfully. SUPERIORE.DE

Dievole's new Chianti Classico Casanova, just released with the debut 2020 vintage, is the result of a quest to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. The Casanova grapes come from a vineyard at an altitude of about 400 metres, with an ideal south-west to south-east exposure and composed mainly of sandstone rocks Macigno del Chianti. The result is a Chianti Classico that is very immediate and direct, with a beautiful acidity to boot. It has the elegance and freshness and the bright, radiant fruit of Chianti Classico "as it used to be".

Dievoles Chianti Classico Petrignano is the result of a commitment to highlighting the distinctive characteristics of particularly well-suited vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of the Sangiovese grape. Petrignano is the name given to a distinctive area characterised by mineral- and stone-rich soil. At an altitude of approximately 330 metres, rocks protrude from the ground, typical of the geological formation of Monte Morello. The abundance of stones, the depth of the roots and the compact growth of the vines result in an expressive and opulent wine from this distinctive and authentic cru site.

In 2009, the Belgian entrepreneur Virginie Saverys took over Tenuta Avignonesi – and transformed it into one of Tuscany’s most ambitious biodynamic estates. Biodyvin-certified, organic, vegan, B Corp: at Avignonesi, wine is understood as an expression of living soils – and Montepulciano as a place that reflects this with exceptional clarity. The Vino Nobile comes from vineyards on sedimentary soils of marine origin – calcareous, with varying proportions of clay and sand from the Pleistocene and Pliocene periods, planted between 1995 and 2017 at altitudes of 270 to 375 metres. Fermentation takes place using yeasts from the estate’s own ‘pied de cuve’: the first batch of grapes is harvested in advance to select the naturally occurring yeasts on the skins. A process that deepens the connection between the wine and the vineyard and anchors the sense of place. 20 to 25 days’ maceration, followed by 18 months in large casks and tonneaux.

Dievoles Chianti Classico Catignano is the result of the endeavour to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. Catignano is a plateau at 370 metres above sea level, with vineyards of different ages and a large proportion of Alberese. The exposure is westerly and south-easterly, which means plenty of sun during the day, but also cold temperatures at night, with a good temperature range that favours the aromatic development of the grapes.

The Carbonare vineyard lies halfway up the slope, facing east, and feels different from Monte Foscarino. It’s not just my imagination – it has a different microclimate. Cool air flows down from the Val d’Alpone and its Piccole Dolomiti. Nearby streams reveal the underground water that flows deep beneath the vineyard. A precious resource for a great white wine. The basalt here is rich in colour: shifting from black to green, red and orange, depending on the degree of iron oxidation. When Inama first tasted the grapes, the character was immediately clear: lively citrus notes, vibrant acidity, mineral freshness. The Carbonare wine was born. 100% Garganega. Short maceration, fermentation and 12 months’ ageing in steel on the fine lees, followed by a further 6 months’ bottle ageing. No oak, no bâtonnage, no distraction from the terroir.

"When Baron Philippe de Rothschild plants Sangiovese, I will switch to Cabernet Sauvignon." John Dunkley, the British founder of Riecine, uttered these words at a time when Sangiovese was under pressure in Tuscany. It was a declaration of faith. And it remained the foundation of the estate through all changes of ownership – until July 2024, when Alessandro Campatelli, the cellar master and director since 2016, acquired the remaining shares and Riecine became entirely his own.

Before there was Soave, there was this wine. In the fifth century, the Roman senator Cassiodorus praised a sweet wine made from dried grapes at the court of the Ostrogoth king Theodoric – acinaticum, the original form of what is now called Recioto di Soave. Fifteen hundred years later, in 1998, it became the first Venetian wine with DOCG status. And yet very few people know it. The story has been reversed: Amarone, which originated in the 1930s as a "runaway" Recioto – a barrel that accidentally fermented through –became a world star. Recioto, its ancestor, remained in the shadows. Guerrieri Rizzardi's version comes from old pergola vines in Costeggiola, planted between 1960 and 1998 on volcanic gravel. Only a third of the harvest is deemed worthy of drying in fruttaio for three to five months – a selection within the selection.

Trentasei means thirty-six. This Lambrusco spends at least this many months on the lees – in the bottle, at a constant 12°C, according to the Metodo Classico. Christian Bellei is not a winemaker who takes the easy way out. The idea of vinifying Lambrusco di Sorbara according to the Metodo Classico is a conscious commitment: that this grape variety should be – delicate, acidic, with a structural elegance that makes it unique among Lambrusco clones – has the potential to deal with Champagne methodology. 100% Sorbara from the alluvial soils of Secchia, hand-picked in 15-kilogram boxes, gentle pressing, first fermentation in steel, then at least six months waiting time before bottle fermentation. Rémuage, dégorgement, dosage: 5 g/litre. Everything as in Épernay – except that the grapes come from Bomporto.