wine classics

Riserva does not simply mean more time in Gracciano. It means different soil. The Maramai and Podere Rovisci crus provide the grape material for this wine – and Rovisci is the core of the whole: heavy clay content, brooding, water-retaining, with a ripening dynamic that elicits the densest, most concentrated side of the Prugnolo Gentile. Vines, some of which have been planted since 1970. 300 to 350 metres, south to south-east exposure, 30 hectolitres per hectare – consistently limited yields. Only in the best vintages does the della Seta Ferrari Corbelli Greco family decide to bottle a Riserva. 2021 was such a year. Prugnolo Gentile 90%, Merlot 10%. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts, 20 to 25 days of maceration in steel. Then aged for 24 months: the first twelve in French tonneaux of 3.5 and 5 hectolitres, the second twelve in large Slavonian oak barrels. Subsequent maturation in the bottle for at least six months.

This red classic from Montepulciano already bears its claim in its name: nobile. No other wine in Italy has this adjective written into its specifications – and hardly any other producer has honoured it as consistently in recent decades as Federico Carletti and his Poliziano winery. Founded in 1961 by father Dino, today under Federico's leadership and long since anchored in the next generation – with Francesco and Maria Stella, who have been helping to shape the future since 2019 and 2021. Poliziano has been certified organic since the 2021 harvest – not a marketing decision, but the logical conclusion of decades of work without chemical weedkillers and insecticides. Prugnolo Gentile, the local variety of Sangiovese, grows on clay and limestone soils between 300 and 450 metres above sea level. Hand-picked, careful selection in the vineyard and in the cellar, fermentation with indigenous yeasts in conical concrete vats – minimum intervention, maximum expression. Maturation in large barrels and tonneaux: the wood frames, it does not dominate.

Tasting the Riserva from Fattoria del Cerro takes you stylistically to those higher vineyard sites where fossil-rich soils full of pebbles and ancient shell remains lend the Prugnolo Gentile a special mineral depth. The crowning glory of the Montepulciano hierarchy is created from these favoured plots – a wine that requires time and patience to reveal its multi-layered nature. After careful selection, the wine undergoes 18 months of refinement, combining tradition and innovation: Eight months in French barriques and tonneaux, followed by a further twelve to sixteen months in large wooden barrels. This combination creates a character of remarkable elegance and the wood integrates seamlessly without overshadowing the varietal fruit. A final twelve months of maturation in the bottle completes the harmonious development.

Le Redini Rosso consists mainly of Merlot and a small proportion of Alicante. The wine opens with dark intensity and a velvety texture with lots of fresh blackberry, plum, earth and wild rose. Pure red fruit on the palate, very supple, the delicate wood note well integrated. The refined notes of a Merlot from the Conca d'Oro come across wonderfully. SUPERIORE.DE

The Cuvée dei Frati is composed of classic Lugana grapes and ten per cent Chardonnay to round it off. After 24 months of ageing on the lees in the bottle, this fine sparkling wine is created with aromas of biscuit, hay and dried tobacco leaves. The moderate carbonic acidity makes it glide over the palate like silk. SUPERIORE.DE

Dievole's new Chianti Classico Casanova, just released with the debut 2020 vintage, is the result of a quest to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. The Casanova grapes come from a vineyard at an altitude of about 400 metres, with an ideal south-west to south-east exposure and composed mainly of sandstone rocks Macigno del Chianti. The result is a Chianti Classico that is very immediate and direct, with a beautiful acidity to boot. It has the elegance and freshness and the bright, radiant fruit of Chianti Classico "as it used to be".

Dievoles Chianti Classico Petrignano is the result of the endeavour to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. Petrignano is the name of a characteristic area with a soil rich in minerals and stones. At an altitude of around 330 metres, rocks protrude from the ground that are typical of the geological formation of Monte Morello. The abundance of stones, the depth of the roots and the low growth of the vines result in an expressive and lush wine from this characteristic and authentic cru site.

In 2009, the Belgian entrepreneur Virginie Saverys took over Tenuta Avignonesi – and transformed it into one of Tuscany’s most ambitious biodynamic estates. Biodyvin-certified, organic, vegan, B Corp: at Avignonesi, wine is understood as an expression of living soils – and Montepulciano as a place that reflects this with exceptional clarity. The Vino Nobile comes from vineyards on sedimentary soils of marine origin – calcareous, with varying proportions of clay and sand from the Pleistocene and Pliocene periods, planted between 1995 and 2017 at altitudes of 270 to 375 metres. Fermentation takes place using yeasts from the estate’s own ‘pied de cuve’: the first batch of grapes is harvested in advance to select the naturally occurring yeasts on the skins. A process that deepens the connection between the wine and the vineyard and anchors the sense of place. 20 to 25 days’ maceration, followed by 18 months in large casks and tonneaux.

Dievoles Chianti Classico Catignano is the result of the endeavour to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. Catignano is a plateau at 370 metres above sea level, with vineyards of different ages and a large proportion of Alberese. The exposure is westerly and south-easterly, which means plenty of sun during the day, but also cold temperatures at night, with a good temperature range that favours the aromatic development of the grapes.

Strong, bright straw yellow colour. Characterful, youthful and rich bouquet of dried nectarines, peach, yellow apple, mint and a fresh hint of almonds. The depth of its texture is in perfect contrast to the savoury acids, minerals and notes of sour apples, but a feeling of balanced ripeness always remains. The finish is long and structured and seems to melt slowly on the palate, leaving savoury spices and a fine tannin behind. It already has a lot to offer today, but should mature a little more in the bottle for more structure and elegance. A wonderfully exciting interpretation of Garganega from a small single vineyard in the Carbonare region. SUPERIORE.DE

"When Baron Philippe de Rothschild plants Sangiovese, I will switch to Cabernet Sauvignon." John Dunkley, the British founder of Riecine, uttered these words at a time when Sangiovese was under pressure in Tuscany. It was a declaration of faith. And it remained the foundation of the estate, through all the changes of ownership, – until July 2024, when Alessandro Campatelli, the cellar master and director since 2016, acquired the remaining shares and Riecine became entirely his own.

Before there was Soave, there was this wine. In the fifth century, the Roman senator Cassiodorus praised a sweet wine made from dried grapes at the court of the Ostrogoth king Theodoric – acinaticum, the original form of what is now called Recioto di Soave. Fifteen hundred years later, in 1998, it became the first Venetian wine with DOCG status. And yet very few people know it. The story has been reversed: Amarone, which originated in the 1930s as a "runaway" Recioto – a barrel that accidentally fermented through –became a world star. Recioto, its ancestor, remained in the shadows. Guerrieri Rizzardi's version comes from old pergola vines in Costeggiola, planted between 1960 and 1998 on volcanic gravel. Only a third of the harvest is deemed worthy of drying in fruttaio for three to five months – a selection within the selection.

Brilliant ruby red colour. Lively nose of small, primary fruity red berries, subtle use of wood and impressive race and complexity for the price. Precise and taut on the palate, showing its origins boldly and decisively. Then a harmoniously balanced mix of tobacco, leather, cedar and, of course, cherry and plum. The finely balanced tannins carry this powerful and impressive Riserva into a long final. Impressive! SUPERIORE.DE

Trentasei means thirty-six. This Lambrusco spends at least this many months on the lees – in the bottle, at a constant 12°C, according to the Metodo Classico. Christian Bellei is not a winemaker who takes the easy way out. The idea of vinifying Lambrusco di Sorbara according to the Metodo Classico is a conscious commitment: that this grape variety should be – delicate, acidic, with a structural elegance that makes it unique among Lambrusco clones – has the potential to deal with Champagne methodology. 100% Sorbara from the alluvial soils of Secchia, hand-picked in 15-kilogram boxes, gentle pressing, first fermentation in steel, then at least six months waiting time before bottle fermentation. Rémuage, dégorgement, dosage: 5 g/litre. Everything as in Épernay – except that the grapes come from Bomporto.

In 1973, Graziano Merotto bought plot 86 in the Rive di Col San Martino – an overgrown piece of hillside, still covered with forest. He cleared it with his own hands, planted Glera and began to shape the vineyard that would one day become his most important. Over fifty years later, this wine bears his name. The Cuvée del Fondatore is made exclusively from that historic plot – 230 metres, south-facing, clay and sand, vines over 40 years old. What Graziano Merotto decides in the cellar is unusual: mash contact before pressing – a step that most producers skip – the must then goes directly into the autoclave, undergoes a second fermentation for 60 days and then matures on its own yeasts for a further 180 days. Almost nine months from must to bottle, a comparatively long time for a Prosecco Superiore. 33,000 bottles, 670 magnum bottles, 10 Jéroboams.

Brolio Riserva is the flagship of Italy's most traditional winery – a wine that bears the signature of the Ricasoli family year after year and at the same time captures the extraordinary diversity of the Brolio terroir. The 100% Sangiovese grapes come from the five characteristic soil types of the estate between 280 and 480 metres above sea level – a terroir mosaic of sandstone, Galestro, Alberese, marine and fluvial deposits that lend the wine exceptional complexity. After controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks with 12 to 16 days of maceration, the wine matures for 18 months in first and second passage tonneaux before resting for a further three months in the bottle. Intense ruby red in colour with garnet reflections, the bouquet combines ripe black cherry, spicy notes and an elegant hint of vanilla. A generous fullness unfolds on the palate, supported by silky tannins and lively freshness – a harmonious, multi-layered Chianti Classico that perfectly balances tradition and international elegance. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1962, Egidio Corradi bought two neglected poderi in Cervognano – a Genovese broker who had spent most of his life away from Tuscany, but had always known where he wanted to return. Boscarelli's first bottle of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano appeared in 1968. Since then, this main line has hardly changed in terms of composition and ageing. This is not hesitation – it is conviction. Prugnolo Gentile and Canaiolo, from vines over 10 years old on the red, sandy, mineral-rich soils of Cervognano, 280 to 350 metres, east-facing, 6,500 vines per hectare.

What distinguishes a Riserva from an Annata? Time. Time to select the best Sangiovese grapes from the estate's twelve plots. Time for a 25-day vinification process that is conducted with the utmost respect for tradition. And time for at least 21 months in French oak barrels, followed by further bottle ageing before the wine leaves the estate.

This visionary wine comes from the legendary Conca d'Oro in Panzano and epitomises Giampaolo Motta's radical break with the traditions of Chianti Classico. The Neapolitan, who lost his heart to the Tuscan soil, took the courageous step of declassifying in 2002 – out of a burning desire for absolute oenological freedom. The cuvée combines Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon to create a Burgundian-Bordelaise dialogue that captures the mineral power of the Galestro and Alberese soils on a south-westerly slope. The wine is carefully vinified in French barriques for ten months "sur lie" with regular bâtonnage, giving the wine a wonderfully silky structure.

Pale straw yellow in colour with a fine, lively perlage. The bouquet shows clear signs of citrus fruit, yellow peach and green apple, accompanied by a fine bread crust flavour and a salty hint. Dry and elegantly structured on the palate, with taut acidity, fine mousse and astonishing finesse. Thanks to 24 months of ageing on the lees, the texture is creamy, the finish long, mineral and characterised by subtle almond notes – a Lugana in sparkling guise that impressively emphasises the potential of the indigenous Turbiana as a sparkling wine. SUPERIORE.DE