Barbaresco 2023

Delicate on the nose, full-bodied on the palate. La Casa in Collina is Vite Coltes' charming take on Barbaresco. Crafted from traditional blends of grape varieties grown on historic terroirs with a gentle southerly aspect, this wine combines nuance with character: Around 20 days of slow fermentation and a year in large oak casks create a balance that allows for depth without sacrificing elegance. In the glass, it is a rich ruby red that deepens to a delicate garnet at the rim. The nose opens with a refined profile: ripe plum, red wild berries and violets, underpinned by ground coffee, tobacco leaf and a hint of delicate woody spices – subtly intense, yet never overpowering. On the palate, it is lively and carefully structured, with well-integrated tannins, fresh acidity and dense fruit. The significant oak influence is noticeable, yet nuanced. The finish is long, spicy and pleasantly rounded, with a hint of subtle vanilla and juicy cherry.

There are wines that possess that unmistakable clarity which captures the essence of the terroir without beating about the bush. Fontanabianca's classic Barbaresco is just such a wine – blended from various plots around Neive, vinified with the precision that Matteo Pola, the third generation of the family, has made the estate's philosophy. Whilst the single-vineyard wines Bordini and Serraboella express the specific characteristics of their crus, this Barbaresco paints the bigger picture: 5.5 hectares on the municipality's typical limestone-clay soils, 300 metres above sea level, where Nebbiolo has, for generations, developed the elegance for which Neive is renowned in the world of Barbaresco.

Some vineyards come into a family's possession through strategic acquisitions, others through a marriage that unites two Piedmontese families. When Aldo Pola married Luisella from nearby Serracapelli, this union brought together not only two people, but also the Pola family and the cru that is now one of the most sought-after in the municipality of Neive: Serraboella. Here, on medium-textured limestone soils, 300 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo thrives in a style that differs from the powerful Bordini – more reserved in its youth, almost shy, yet possessing an elegance that comes into its own over the years. What Matteo Pola produces from the 30-year-old vines of this single vineyard is a Barbaresco of remarkable harmony – a wine that impresses not through its intensity, but through that crystalline precision that characterises great terroirs.

When Franco Pola bottled the first bottle of his Barbaresco Bordini in 1970, he not only marked the beginning of a family history, but also set an example of the bond between people and the vineyard that has endured for generations. The vineyard bears the same name as the street on which the estate stands – Via Bordini 15 – and this geographical coincidence holds a deeper truth: Here, where the winery building looks directly out onto the south-east-facing slope, family and terroir are inextricably intertwined. On sandy limestone-clay soil, 280 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo vines aged between 50 and 60 years are rooted – one hectare of which is even over 70 years old and ungrafted, a living link to the time when Franco's father, Secondo, still ran the estate as a farm.

For years, it remained a dream of the Massolino family to expand their portfolio in Serralunga d'Alba to include their own Barbaresco. It was not until late 2018 that Franco, Roberto and Paola found plots that met their standards, and in 2019 they produced their own Barbaresco for the first time, over a hundred years after the estate was founded. The grapes come from carefully selected vineyards in the Barbaresco area, with soils of varying consistency that bring out a gentler, more approachable side to the Nebbiolo here than in their home town of Serralunga. Following fermentation and maceration in wooden vats at around 30 degrees, the wine matures for approximately 18 months in large wooden barrels before taking on its final form in the bottle in the family's cool, dark cellars.

The grapes for Prunotto's highly appealing Barbaresco come from long-established contract vineyards in Treiso and Neive. They are selectively harvested by hand; the batches are destemmed separately and fermented in stainless steel tanks, with maceration lasting around eight days at controlled temperatures. Malolactic fermentation is completed before winter. The wine is then left to mature for around a year in large oak barrels of varying sizes – a process deliberately designed to enhance balance, texture and the expression of its terroir.

The Bordini vineyard in Neive, bathed in sunshine and situated on calcareous, slightly sandy soils, has been renowned for generations for producing Nebbiolo wines of natural vigour and refined structure. In the glass, it glows with a rich ruby colour and a subtle garnet sheen. The nose is inviting and multi-layered: juicy plum, ripe strawberry and the warm scent of crushed nutmeg interweave with rose petals, orange peel, a hint of dried herbs and subtle spice. On the palate, the wine reveals its dual nature – generous, red-fleshed fruit paired with the classic Nebbiolo structure that characterises Bordini. Velvety yet distinct tannins provide backbone, whilst the lively acidity balances the rich fruit and lends the full-bodied wine freshness and energy. The finish is long, spicy and threaded with a subtle mineral note – a Barbaresco full of expressiveness that harmoniously combines the essence of the vineyard and the vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

When Giorgio Rivetti saw the hills of Neive, he immediately recognised the potential lying dormant in this Barbaresco commune: soils and exposures in which he saw the characteristics of the most prestigious crus combined. He bought the land. Since then, the Rivettis have owned four vineyards in Neive, each with its own character, each a distinct voice in the estate's Barbaresco ensemble. Bordini is the most delicate of these voices.

Albesani is situated in Neive, in the heart of the Barbaresco region, and, at two hectares, is one of the smaller but most carefully selected plots that Massolino discovered in 2018 for its new Barbaresco project, following years of searching. The vines are on average 50 years old and are situated at an altitude of 230 metres in an ideal aspect, on soils of varying consistency which lend the Nebbiolo here a particular depth, markedly different from the calcareous-marly soils of the local Serralunga vineyards. Traditional fermentation and maceration in wooden vats at around 30 degrees, entirely without the smaller barriques commonly used elsewhere in the area, also define the estate's style here. This is followed by up to 18 months in large wooden casks and a further twelve months in the bottle before the wine leaves the cellars of Serralunga d'Alba.

Sand changes everything. In Neive, where many Barbaresco soils are dominated by marl and clay, the Fausoni vineyard is interspersed with sandy components – and this difference is no mere detail. Sand conducts heat differently, drains more quickly, contains fewer nutrients and forces the vine to concentrate its flavours. At the same time, it lends the tannins a finesse that does not develop in heavier soils. Forty-year-old vines growing in this light subsoil have learnt to grow deep and slender. The result is the softest, most floral of the five Sottimano Barbareschi. Fermentation with natural yeasts, prolonged contact with the cap, natural malolactic fermentation. 18 to 22 months in barriques specially made for the estate, half of which is spent on the lees. Like all five crus: no filtration, no fining, and a further year of bottle ageing. The same care – and a completely different result.

Treiso is not Neive. Once you've grasped that, you begin to see the Barbaresco appellation in a different light. Neive offers power, body and polyphenols. Treiso – the southernmost of the three Barbaresco municipalities, situated at a higher altitude, cooler, with more compact, limestone-rich soils – imparts rigour, minerality and a longevity that some other sites lack. The MGA Pajoré is Treiso's voice in the Sottimano collection: the most traditional, the most persistent and, of the five crus, the one that demands the most patience. Old vines on calcareous-clay soils, steep and well-exposed. Organic cultivation from the outset. Fermentation with natural yeasts, extended maceration, natural malolactic fermentation. Aged for 18 to 22 months in François-Frères barriques, half on the lees, with a minimal proportion of new oak. No filtration. No fining. A further year in the bottle. The same winemaking method as always – and, as so often, proof that terroir matters more than technique.

Basarin is the latest chapter in the Sottimano story – acquired in 2014, it was the fifth cru to complete the portfolio. And, at the same time, the most complex. The small Basarin MGA stretches across a varied landscape characterised by steep slopes and considerable altitude – a terrain that seems almost rugged compared to the gentle hills of other Neive vineyards. The soils are of Miocene-Helvetian origin, predominantly calcareous and interspersed with sandy veins – a composition that allows for both mineral tension and aromatic depth. The vines here vary in age and aspect, which places an additional demand on the winemaking process: even more precise selection and harvesteven more careful harvestof harvest. This is followed by the consistent Sottimano method: fermentation on natural yeasts, long maceration, spontaneous malolactic fermentation, 18 to 22 months in specially crafted barriques, and one year's bottle ageing. No filtration. No fining.

This is where it all began. When Rino Sottimano acquired his first plots in Neive in the 1970s, Cottà was his first vineyard – that south-west-facing site near the border with the municipality of Barbaresco, where the Nebbiolo benefits from two worlds: the power and polyphenols that Neive imparts to its wines, and the balance of tannins that the proximity to Barbaresco brings. It is the family's oldest plot – and the most authentic. Vines aged between 40 and 60 years on gently rolling slopes with light grey and yellowish Tortonian and Helvetic marl. Organic viticulture without compromise, fermentation with natural yeasts, long maceration with the cap submerged. Malolactic fermentation, which is not completed until the spring following the harvest. Then 18 to 22 months in barriques specially crafted for Sottimano by François Frères, half on the lees, with a small proportion of new oak. No filtration, no fining.

The Gallina single vineyard in Neive has been synonymous with powerful, broodingBarbaresco for decades. The vines grow on limestone-rich marl soils facing south – a terroir that imbues the Nebbiolo with lush fruit, subtle spice and a distinctive structure. Following a careful hand-harvest, traditional maceration takes place, after which the wine matures for over 20 months in new barriques before being bottled unfiltered.

High above the Tanaro in the municipality of Treiso lies the Valeirano plot – one of the most barren and steepest sites in the Barbaresco region. Calcareous marl soils, interspersed with fine veins of sand, and an exposed south-easterly aspect lend the Nebbiolo here a particularly taut, vertical profile. Following a careful hand-harvest, the wine ferments traditionally on the skins and is then aged for around 20 months in new barriques before being bottled unfiltered.

The Starderi hill in the municipality of Neive is one of Barbaresco's most renowned sites. The vines are rooted here in limestone-rich marl soils, interspersed with fine clay – a terroir that lends the Nebbiolo structure and warmth. The site enjoys plenty of sunshine, yet the altitude of around 270 metres and the refreshing breeze from the Tanaro ensure freshness and aromatic precision. Traditional whole-bunch fermentation, 20 months' ageing in new barriques, unfiltered bottling.

If Barbaresco has a face, it is that of Asili. This vineyard on the western edge of the municipality – gently sloping, facing south-west, on limestone-rich clay soils with a fine vein of sand – produces a Nebbiolo that stands apart from all others in the appellation: not through power, but through grace. Not through extraction, but through transparency. It is not a loud wine. It murmurs – but what it says is not easily forgotten. Bruno Giacosa recognised this early on. From 1967 onwards, he vinified Asili grapes, initially sourced from elsewhere, then – in the late 1990s – from his own estate: 2.5 hectares, which he carefully consolidated from various plots. Today, his vines lie side by side with those of Gaja, Roagna and the Produttori del Barbaresco – a quiet circle of the greatest. Bruna Giacosa and cellar master Dante Scaglione nurture this legacy with the same restraint that Bruno cultivated throughout his life: let the soil speak for itself. And in the cellar, they let it have its say.

The Gallina single vineyard in Neive has been synonymous with powerful, broodingBarbaresco for decades. The vines grow on limestone-rich marl soils facing south – a terroir that imbues the Nebbiolo with lush fruit, subtle spice and a distinctive structure. Following a careful hand-harvest, traditional maceration takes place, after which the wine matures for over 20 months in new barriques before being bottled unfiltered.

The Starderi hill in the municipality of Neive is one of Barbaresco's most renowned sites. The vines are rooted here in limestone-rich marl soils, interspersed with fine clay – a terroir that lends the Nebbiolo structure and warmth. The site enjoys plenty of sunshine, yet the altitude of around 270 metres and the refreshing breeze from the Tanaro ensure freshness and aromatic precision. Traditional whole-bunch fermentation, 20 months' ageing in new barriques, unfiltered bottling.

High above the Tanaro in the municipality of Treiso lies the Valeirano plot – one of the most barren and steepest sites in the Barbaresco region. Calcareous marl soils, interspersed with fine veins of sand, and an exposed south-easterly aspect lend the Nebbiolo here a particularly taut, vertical profile. Following a careful hand-harvest, the wine ferments traditionally on the skins and is then aged for around 20 months in new barriques before being bottled unfiltered.