“Ornellaia” Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2023

Ornellaia | Tuscany
Ornellaia S.r.l. | Loc. Ornellaia 191 | IT 57022 Castagneto Carducci

09282223 · 0,75 l · 345,33 €/lavailable immediately
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Tenuta dell'Ornellaia has a distinctive feature that few other wineries in the world share: it renames its flagship wine every year. Not simply with the vintage, but with a feeling. Since 2006, each harvest has been assigned a term – precise, poetic, inevitably apt. In 2023, the word is: "La Vitalità". And in this vintage, it describes not only the wine, but the beginning of a new chapter. For Marco Balsimelli, director since January 2024, who trained at Boissenot and at Gruaud-Larose in Bordeaux, took the helm at Ornellaia in the very winter when the 2023 vintage was still ageing in the barrels. It was his first complete vintage – from the selection of the plots through to the blending and bottling. A debut under the watchful eye of the wine world. And the result proves him right.

What sets 2023 apart is its natural harmony. Following a mild winter with early budbreak, spring brought abundant rain: water reserves were built up, and vegetation had to be constantly monitored. The summer in Bolgheri was hot, but without extreme temperature spikes or heat stress. The vines ripened evenly, and concentration developed naturally. Then came the crucial window: rain at the end of August, cool nights in September. The aromatic complexity was preserved, and the acidity maintained. Balsimelli himself calls 2023 "the perfect vintage – so lovely that it can be enjoyed right now". Lamberto Frescobaldi comments dryly: "It is always risky to remain faithful to tradition alone. Those who fall in love with tradition stop searching."

The blend is classic: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon forms the foundation, 26% Merlot provides body and roundness, 12% Cabernet Franc lends finesse and a fresh herbal character, whilst 7% Petit Verdot adds distinctive notes. Over 70 plots from the two main vineyards, Ornellaia and Bellaria, with complex soil types – marine-sedimentary, alluvial-loamy and volcanic – are vinified separately. Around 80 base wines are produced before the blending takes place in the second year. The wine is aged for 18 months in French barriques, 70% of which are new, with deliberately varied coopers, toasting levels and woods from different forests. It is then aged in bottle for a further twelve months.

A deep ruby red with brilliant violet highlights. The bouquet offers ripe fruit, blackberry and redcurrant, with spicy notes of cedar and sweet tobacco, and a subtle hint of toasting. On the palate, it is juicy, fresh and dynamic – underpinned by a hint of acacia honey that reveals the vintage's character. The tannins are silky and exceptionally precise, whilst the finish is long and characterised by a rich, Mediterranean persistence. "The density is counterbalanced by elegance and balance," says Balsimelli. A wine that is already captivating and will continue to surprise in years to come. Here comes "La Vitalità". SUPERIORE.DE

"The 2023 Ornellaia is elegant from the very first sip and displays the utmost finesse. Dark cherry, plum, mocha, dried herbs, liquorice and lavender blend together in the glass to form a harmonious whole. There are no harsh edges or rough contours. harvestwill find an Ornellaia that exudes restraint and finesse rather than power. It is impressive." Vinous

"A surprisingly light and refined Ornellaia – the first full vintage produced under the supervision of former Bordeaux winemaker Marco Balsimelli. Aromas of roses and violets introduce crisp notes of blackcurrant, complemented by hints of menthol, cardamom, black pepper and petrichor. Airy and fresh, with good intensity, it is slender and vertical on the palate, with fine, slightly firm but ripe tannins and a delicious spiciness." Decanter

"The careful selection of the grapes made all the difference. The wine captivates with its impressive richness and concentration, as well as a complex, botanical bouquet characterised by dark fruits, Mediterranean thyme and rosemary. At the tasting, the nose was still somewhat closed, but this will unfold in time. The texture is velvety and refined, conveying a wonderful richness with a juiciness that spreads widely across the palate." Wine Advocate

"Restrained and complex, showing aromas of cloves, graphite, bark, Mediterranean scrub and dark yet fresh bramble fruit. On the full-bodied palate, it shines with extraction and suppleness, showing dense, velvety tannins and long, refreshing acidity. Stunning savoriness and intensity with fine-knit depth." James Suckling