Derthona Timorasso Montemarzino 2023

Roagna | Piedmont
Az. Agr. I Paglieri | Loc. Paglieri 9 | IT 12050 Barbaresco

Some grape varieties die out. Others survive, forgotten. And some are revived when the right family discovers them. When the Roagnas acquired a plot of land in Montemarzino in 2014 – previously owned by a cousin – it was more than just a land purchase. It was a commitment to Timorasso, that historic white wine grape of the Colli Tortonesi, which was once thought to be lost. On Tortonese soils, at an altitude of 450 metres with an east-facing aspect, there are now vines around 35 years old, rejuvenated through massal selection from historical genetic material. The harvest takes place in small crates, and the whole bunches macerate for a few hours in the press. The must undergoes controlled oxidation without the addition of sulphites before fermenting spontaneously with the wine's own yeasts and maturing for two years on the fine lees in large barrels.

A bright, deep golden yellow with green highlights. The nose opens reductively, with hints of great white Burgundies: flint and gunpowder meet grilled sweetcorn and popcorn, followed by quince, vineyard peach and a whole herb garden – marjoram, sage, oregano and savory. Yet the palate tells a different story: here, Piedmontese edginess reigns supreme rather than the suppleness typical of the Cote-d'Or. Angular structure, open-pored tannins, subtle bitterness and chalky phenolics carry through to the long, demanding final. A masculine white that demands time and attention – three to four thousand bottles a year for those who understand that Timorasso is no compromise. SUPERIORE.DE

"The 2023 Timorasso Derthona Montemarzino is superb. Luca Roagna has created a Timorasso that combines the texture and structure typical of this grape variety with the finesse that characterises all his wines. The result is a Timorasso of unusual elegance. Notes of dried pear, camomile, mint, spices and crushed flowers develop over time. A long, resonant finish rounds it all off effortlessly." Vinous

"Among the early champions of Timorasso, the Roagna family first produced this wine in 2014. The 2023 Derthona Montemarzino opens with delicate notes of toasted almond, stone fruit, quince and baked apple. The bouquet is initially understated, but the wine gradually broadens across the palate to reveal a softly layered texture and surprising persistence. I would welcome a little more freshness to bring greater definition to the finish, although the wine remains harmonious and elegantly balanced." Wine Advocate