Derthona Timorasso Montemarzino 2023

Roagna | Piedmont
Az. Agr. I Paglieri | Loc. Paglieri 9 | IT 12050 Barbaresco

Some grape varieties die. Others survive in oblivion. And some awaken when the right family finds them. When the Roagnas acquired a plot of land in Montemarzino in 2014 – previously owned by a cousin –it was more than just a land purchase. It was a commitment to Timorasso, the historic white wine grape of the Colli Tortonesi, which was once considered lost. On Tortonese soils, at an altitude of 450 metres and facing east, the vines are now around 35 years old and have been rejuvenated through massal selection from historical genetic material. The grapes are harvested in small crates and macerated whole in the press for a few hours. The must oxidises in a controlled manner without the addition of sulphites before fermenting spontaneously with its own yeasts and maturing for two years on the fine lees in large barrels.

Bright, dense golden yellow with green reflections. The nose opens reductively, with hints of great white Burgundy: flint and gunpowder meet grilled corn and popcorn, followed by quince, vineyard peach and a whole bed of herbs – marjoram, sage, oregano, savoury. But the palate tells a different story: Piedmontese angularity reigns here instead of suppleness à la Côte-d'Or. Angular architecture, open-pored tannins, fine bitterness and chalky phenolics carry through to the long, demanding final. A masculine white wine that demands time and attention – three to four thousand bottles a year for those who understand that Timorasso is not a compromise. SUPERIORE.DE

"The 2023 Timorasso Derthona Montemarzino is gorgeous. Luca Roagna has crafted a Timorasso that marries the textural and structural presence typical of this variety with a good deal of the finesse that runs through all his wines. The result is a Timorasso of uncommon elegance. Hints of dried pear, chamomile, mint, spice and crushed flowers build gradually over time. A long, resonant finish wraps it all together effortlessly." Vinous