Timorasso

Timorasso is not mainstream, but rather a speciality of Piedmont. With its Derthona, Vite Colte presents a white wine that you rediscover and then prefer to drink again immediately – because it has a different appearance and is captivatingly clear. It has a bright straw yellow colour in the glass, almost fading into gold. Notes of acacia blossom, hawthorn, ripe peach and a hint of honey emerge on the nose – plus a cool shimmer of flint and minerality, which makes everything a little more exciting. On the palate, structure meets juiciness: full-bodied, yet light on the palate thanks to present, fine acidity. There is also a subtle nutty undertone that adds fine depth without becoming dominant. The finish is long, elegant and clears the palate with chalky freshness. SUPERIORE.DE

Vietti has given the Colli Tortonesi its own distinctive voice with no fewer than three interpretations of Timorasso: the classic Derthona, the single-vineyard Boscogrosso from Monleale – and, as the freshest and most immediate expression in the trio, this Piccolo Derthona. The name is a nod to Derthona, the ancient Roman name for Tortona, whilst the addition of "Piccolo" signifies its role as the most accessible expression of the grape variety in the range.

Timorasso – once almost forgotten, today one of the most exciting white wines in Piedmont. Piccolo Derthona is Walter Massa's introduction to this fascinating grape variety, but there is no question of a simple base. The wine comes from the hillside vineyards around Monleale, where clay and limestone on ancient sea beds create a microclimate that favours cool fruit and mineral tension. The wine is traditionally matured in stainless steel, with long maturation on the fine lees – for structure, clarity and character.

In 1987, there were still 0.5 hectares of Timorasso in the whole of Piedmont. The grape variety, once widespread in the hills south-east of Turin, had almost disappeared due to phylloxera, structural change and lack of interest. Walter Massa rescued it – and brought it back into the dialogue. Giorgio Rivetti from La Spinetta, whose eye for exceptional terroirs has made his company great, recognised the potential and planted in Montemarzino, Montegioco and Monleale. Derthona – the ancient Roman name for Tortona, the capital of these hills – became the name of the wine. 100% Timorasso, south-west and south-east facing vineyards, organic cultivation. Destemming, gentle pressing, fermentation in temperature-controlled small stainless steel tanks. Then seven months on the fine lees – no malolactic fermentation, the acidity remains naturally lively. Four months in the bottle before release.

When you say Braida, you mean Barbera. Ever since Giacomo Bologna proved in the 1980s that this underestimated grape variety can reach barrique maturity and world class, the name has been synonymous with the Piedmontese red wine revolution. Connoisseurs know that the family also produces white wines – but La Regina, Re di Fiori and the Asso di Fiori are deliberately labelled differently: Serra dei Fiori. This is the name of the vineyard near Trezzo Tinella in the Langhe, which the Bolognas acquired together with the Giacosa brothers in 1988. A separate terroir, a joint venture, a separate project. This makes what Giuseppe and Raffaella Bologna now dare to do all the more significant: the first white wine to bear the name Braida. Vinified not in the Langhe, but in the historic cellar of Rocchetta Tanaro – the heart of the estate. The grapes come from the Colli Tortonesi, the hills east of Alessandria, where the Timorasso has been rooted since the Middle Ages and was saved from extinction thanks to pioneers like Walter Massa.

The best plots around Monleale, from which the grapes for the Derthona Timorasso come, cover just 11 hectares. They are located in the Apennine and pre-Apennine hills of the Marca Obertenga, the soils contain mainly marl and clayey layers. The deep bouquet has green and yellow fruit notes, orange confit, graphite, mint and a hint of camomile. On the palate, it marches straight ahead with that certain exotic something, its pleasantly fresh acidity and fine tannin into a long finish with an attractive bitterness of citrus peel reminiscent of chinotto and a mineral vein. The 12-month contact during fermentation in stainless steel on the lees ensures that it gains in depth and complexity with each year of further bottle ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

The relatively new Colli Tortonesi DOC is probably still one of Piedmont's least well-known wine-growing regions. The term 'Derthona' is already being used as an umbrella term. It is the old name for Tortona, a small town in the centre of the DOC. The indigenous white grape variety Timorasso led a rather obscure existence for many years, but today some winemakers are already calling it the "white Barolo". This is due, on the one hand, to the wines' great complexity and finesse, and on the other, to their outstanding ageing potential. Furthermore, the grapes often vary in size and ripeness at harvest, which makes the selection process – just as with the great Nebbiolo crus – a major challenge.

After 35 years at the helm of Vietti, Luca Currado and Elena Penna ventured a new beginning in 2023: Cascina Penna-Currado, an artisanal boutique winery in Serralunga d'Alba, founded together with their children Michele and Giulia. A cascina dating back to 1554, once owned by the Marchesi Falletti, with a 360° view over the Langhe – and a wine that epitomises Elena's long-standing passion: Timorasso. The almost extinct, indigenous white wine variety of Piedmont, revived in the Colli Tortonesi, where Sant'Agata fossilised marl – 20 million years old compacted limestone – provide the typical salinity and minerality. The 15-year-old vines grow in Berzano di Tortona on east-facing slopes. The vinification is ground-breaking: spontaneous fermentation with innovative "submerged cap maceration" – the skins remain submerged, which enables perfect extraction without oxidative notes. 40-45% skin maceration, then maturation on the fine lees in clayver ceramic vats, partial malolactic fermentation.

The relatively young DOC Colli Tortonesi is probably still one of the least known wine regions in Piedmont. The term Derthona is already used as a generic term. It is the old name for Tortona, a small village in the centre of the DOC. The indigenous white grape variety Timorasso led a shadowy existence for many years, but today some winegrowers are already calling it the "white Barolo". This is due to its great complexity and finesse on the one hand and the excellent ageing potential of the wines on the other. In addition, the grapes often vary in size and ripeness during the harvest, which makes selection a major challenge, just as with the great Nebbiolo crus.

Walter Massa's single-vineyard Timorasso Montecitorio is produced through a cold maceration of approx. 40 hours, followed by a fermentation of approx. 12 months in stainless steel tanks with regular batonnage of the yeast for approx. 12 months.

The indigenous white grape variety Timorasso led a shadowy existence for many years, but today some winegrowers are already calling it the "white Barolo". This is partly due to its great complexity and finesse, and partly due to the excellent ageing potential of the wines.

Walter Massa's single-vineyard Timorasso Costa del Vento is made by a cold maceration of about 40 hours, a subsequent fermentation of about 12 months in stainless steel tanks under regular batonnage of the yeast for about 12 months. It is stronger and richer than the basic Timorasso and therefore needs more attention and further bottle ageing.

If you stumble across a vineyard by fate, then you might as well keep going. Luca Roagna, however, did what he had to do. He inherited this old vineyard, which was planted entirely with Timorasso, and as he immediately realised that he wanted to do something useful with it and was unfamiliar with this historic grape variety, he quickly asked Walter Massa, who had been dedicated to this rare variety for decades. And so, after just a few years, he succeeded in making a wine from it that more than rivalled those of his teacher!

Some grape varieties die out. Others survive, forgotten. And some are revived when the right family discovers them. When the Roagnas acquired a plot of land in Montemarzino in 2014 – previously owned by a cousin – it was more than just a land purchase. It was a commitment to Timorasso, that historic white wine grape of the Colli Tortonesi, which was once thought to be lost. On Tortonese soils, at an altitude of 450 metres with an east-facing aspect, there are now vines around 35 years old, rejuvenated through massal selection from historical genetic material. The harvest takes place in small crates, and the whole bunches macerate for a few hours in the press. The must undergoes controlled oxidation without the addition of sulphites before fermenting spontaneously with the wine's own yeasts and maturing for two years on the fine lees in large barrels.

If you stumble across a vineyard by fate, then you might as well keep going. Luca Roagna, however, did what he had to do. He inherited this old vineyard, which was planted entirely with Timorasso, and as he immediately realised that he wanted to do something useful with it and was unfamiliar with this historic grape variety, he quickly asked Walter Massa, who had been dedicated to this rare variety for decades. And so, after just a few years, he succeeded in making a wine from it that more than rivalled those of his teacher!

Some grape varieties die out. Others survive, forgotten. And some are revived when the right family discovers them. When the Roagnas acquired a plot of land in Montemarzino in 2014 – previously owned by a cousin – it was more than just a land purchase. It was a commitment to Timorasso, that historic white wine grape of the Colli Tortonesi, which was once thought to be lost. On Tortonese soils, at an altitude of 450 metres with an east-facing aspect, there are now vines around 35 years old, rejuvenated through massal selection from historical genetic material. The harvest takes place in small crates, and the whole bunches macerate for a few hours in the press. The must undergoes controlled oxidation without the addition of sulphites before fermenting spontaneously with the wine's own yeasts and maturing for two years on the fine lees in large barrels.