The Wine Advocate | 95–100 Points

A renowned, single-varietal Fiano from limestone-rich, loamy-sandy soils in the Contrada Dispensa near Menfi. A bright straw-yellow colour with greenish highlights. The bouquet is complex and full of finesse: white flowers, Williams pear, ripe citrus fruit and a hint of exotic notes such as passion fruit and guava, underpinned by a salty, almost chalky nuance. On the palate, it is silky and expansive, with refined fruit, lively acidity and a cool, mineral edge. The texture is creamy yet remains clearly defined, convincingly expressing its terroir.

In 1996, Elisabetta Geppetti bought a hillside near Pereta. She named it Poggio Valente – the capable hill, the brave hill. A name that says it all. The vineyard lies at 280 metres, facing south-west, on sandy soils over sandstone bedrock with clay interlayers – a terroir that lends the Sangiovese precision and elegance rather than weight and power. Elisabetta wanted something different here: a single-varietal Sangiovese cru in the Burgundian tradition, a wine that speaks of its vineyard and nothing else. In 2014, she took a decisive step: Poggio Valente left the Morellino appellation and has since been classified as Toscana IGT. This is no step backwards – quite the opposite. It is a statement. This wine transcends its designation of origin, and Elisabetta did not want the lack of international recognition associated with an appellation to limit her ambition.

The estate has dedicated its single-vineyard wine made from Nerello Mascalese to the Musmeci family, particularly Ignazio Musmeci, who tended the vines at Rovittello for many years. Silvia Maestrelli, who sadly passed away far too young, founded Tenuta di Fessina in 2007, building her business around an old vineyard of this variety, which she acquired after lengthy negotiations with the previous owners. The suffix in the name takes us even further back, to the time before the phylloxera plague that once ravaged Europe's vineyards. Vines from that era are grown on their own roots, without the American rootstock onto which vines have been grafted almost everywhere since then, and are regarded as a mark of quality – and not just on Mount Etna.

Ricasoli's Vin Santo is the sublime interpretation of one of the historic grape varieties of Chianti Classico, the Malvasia del Chianti, and at the same time a masterpiece of centuries-old Tuscan craftsmanship. Here, the 880-year-old winemaking tradition of the Ricasoli family merges with the mystical art of passito making to create a wine of rare nobility. The grapes come from vines over forty years old on well-drained alluvial soils at an altitude of 200 metres with southern exposure. At the beginning of October, at the end of the harvest, the Malvasia grapes are hand-picked together with small quantities of Trebbiano and Sangiovese grapes with an optimum sugar content and perfect flavour concentration. Only the best, loose-berried grapes with sparse berries are transported in 18-kilogramme crates to specially ventilated chambers at Castello di Brolio. This is where the magic of time begins: the grapes hang to dry for three months while the water content slowly dwindles and the flavours concentrate. The must from the gentle pressing then ferments for months - a process that takes years and requires the utmost patience. The young wine then matures for nine years in oak caratelli of various sizes, where it develops its characteristic amber colour and complex aromas.

Le Baròncole Riserva captivates right from the nose with its juicy fruit and stone fruit aromas, and carries this lovely impression through to the palate. Cherries, sour cherries and blackberries – very juicy and powerful on the palate – fill the mouth completely, whilst remaining lively and elegant throughout. Silky, fine-grained tannins and a long, balsamic finish leave you longing for the next glass. A fine wine. Good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The top wine Cavalli Rosso comes from loose marl soils at an altitude of 400 metres facing south. It reveals a dark and lush fruit profile with intense blackberry, sour cherry, plum and graphite flavours. On the palate, it has a high primary intensity and medium weight, finishing with a very crisp acidity. It is polished and deep, balanced and supple with plenty of fruity power, weight and length. SUPERIORE.DE

Anyone who has been cultivating vines since 1879 takes their time. In San Lorenzo, they have waited a long time for the right moment to produce this wine. The estate's stated aim is to continually improve its wines. The village lies where the southern slopes of the Collio meet the plateaus of the Isonzo Valley. On a calcareous gravel plateau at an altitude of 60 metres grow Sauvignon Bianco, Friulano and Riesling, with vines averaging over thirty years in age. Here, gold is crafted from grapes that are harvested by hand when fully ripe and carefully selected. Fermentation takes place in large casks, where the wine rests on its fine lees for eleven months, with the lees being stirred repeatedly. After blending, the wine undergoes a long ageing period in stainless steel, before finally being bottled.

Since the 2018 vintage, a small amount of Merlot has been vinified separately at Rampolla, named after the mother Donna Liù. The unfiltered wine was matured for 12 months in terracotta amphorae and fermented to almost 0 g/l residual sugar. Very elegant, fresh nose of sour cherry, laurel and cassis. Fresh on the palate and without the sometimes exuberant opulence of some other Tuscan Merlots, with a precise cherry fruit and salty-minty component. A finely chiselled Merlot that is hard to beat in terms of freshness, clarity and personality. It bridges the gap wonderfully between the Chianti Classico and the two flagships of the house, Sammarco and d'Alceo. Needs a few more years in the bottle. SUPERIORE.DE

It was a dream that the engineer Gastone Bazzocchi planted in the Tuscan soil in 1947 – five hectares of Sangiovese on a hill he called Bòggina. Luca Sanjust, his grandson and a former painter, reflects today on Paul Klee's "Angelus Novus" and Walter Benjamin's interpretation of this angel, who "turns his gaze towards the past" whilst "a storm blows from paradise". Such is Bòggina: a wine with its eyes on the past, yet relentlessly propelled towards the future. Since 2011, Petrolo has been experimenting with the vinification of a special batch made from the finest grapes of this historic vineyard in terracotta amphorae from Impruneta – the pottery craft that has shaped Tuscan culture since the time of the Etruscans. Fermentation takes place over two weeks in 300- andLiters using indigenous yeasts, before the vessels are hermetically sealed. For eight months, the wine macerates on the skins, protected by natural skin contact without the addition of sulphites.

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been permitted to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive), introduced in 2021, on the labels of the top-tier Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, this is a logical step towards producing wines that reflect the region in which they were made as authentically as possible. And it enables customers to deepen their understanding of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin – a real added value.

Tasca became involved in Etna at an early stage and the latest result of these years of experience are four single-vineyard red wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The Sciaranuova parcel is located at an average altitude of 730 metres above sea level between the villages of Montelaguardia and Passopisciaro. It covers an area of approximately 4.9 hectares of vineyards. The soils are of volcanic origin and up to 40,000 years old.

Feudo di Mezzo is perhaps the largest Contrada in the entire Etna DOC – characterised by a consistent style, yet with marked differences in quality from plot to plot. Marco de Grazia compares it to the Clos de Vougeot in Burgundy: a vast territory capable of producing great wine in its finest parts, and merely good wine in its weaker ones. The best plot in Feudo di Mezzo – de Grazia's plot – is called: Il Quadro delle Rose. The Rose Plot. Castiglione di Sicilia, 650 metres, north-facing. 1.5 hectares, vines aged between 40 and 80 years on deep, ash-rich volcanic soils. 5,500 bottles per vintage. Il Quadro delle Rose is always the first vineyard to be harvested – and de Grazia explains why this shapes its character: the earlier harvest yields the most open, generous and soft wines of the entire estate.

In 1991, Michele Satta planted his first vines in Castagneto Carducci. No master plan, no blueprint from outside. Just the conviction that this soil, this sea air, this Tuscan stubbornness could achieve more than what Bolgheri already was at the time. The result was Piastraia. Bottled since 1994, a Bolgheri Superiore since 2012 – and in 2023: the thirtieth vintage. Thirty vintages of observation, adjustment, refinement and a constant pursuit of excellence. The blend – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc – ferments varietal-separately in conical concrete vats, using only wild yeasts. No intervention, no shortcuts. 18 to 24 months in French barriques, a fifth of which are new – providing a subtle framework, without dominance.

In the dizzying heights of Lamole, where Chianti Classico reaches its natural limits, Angela Fronti is writing a new chapter in her Sangiovese saga. Elle – the letter that stands for Lamole, but also for "Lei", the feminine elegance that permeates this exceptional wine. Spanning just 0.45 hectares, scattered across the steep terraces at an altitude of 540 metres, the old vines take root in that distinctive Macigno del Chianti – a compact, non-calcareous sandstone that makes Lamole a unique entity within the Gallo Nero territory. The Fronti family, proud members of the FIVI (Federazione Italiana Vignaioli Indipendenti), embody their philosophy of absolute independence here: from their own vineyard right through to their own bottle. In Lamole, designated a magical UGA since 2017, they defy the extremes of the high altitude with a precision made possible only by decades of experience in viticulture.

In the vineyards of Rancia Piccola and Poggiolo, where a Benedictine monastery once watched over the hills of Castelnuovo Berardenga, a quiet revolution has been taking place since 1987. Maestro Raro – the rare master – bears the name of the legendary vineyard parcel, also known as "Mastro Raro", which neighbours the famous Rancia vineyard. Here, the Poggiali family dared to do the seemingly impossible: to breathe the terroir of Fèlsina into the world-famous Cabernet Sauvignon, that magical place where normally only Sangiovese performs at its best.

Generous Brunello made from grapes from different vineyards in various sub-zones in Montalcino with the classic aura of its vintage. The aromatically intense bouquet opens with a scent of violets and then develops flavours of wild berries, vanilla, tobacco and chocolate. The flavour is characterised by a good balance between a full, juicy body, soft tannins and well-integrated alcohol. SUPERIORE.DE

Marciliano is a truly ambitious Cabernet cuvée from the Sangiovese-dominated Montecchio/Orvieto region and reflects uncompromising quality and craftsmanship. The 2019 vintage was characterised by mild but structure-enhancing weather conditions: cool nights during the harvest phase and warm days that perfectly balanced the ripeness of the aromas. In the glass, it has a dense ruby red colour with a garnet red hue. The nose intones ripe sour cherry, stewed plums, ripe wild berries, and further develops smoke, leather, hints of white truffle and a touch of vanilla and cedar wood. Powerful yet polished on the palate – clearly structured, with fine-grained, ripe tannins, lively acidity and a substrate-rich, spicy texture. The ageing in barriques was selectively dosed and supports the spiciness without masking the varietal typicity. Marciliano is a serious, mature red wine with depth and potential. Expressive, focussed and with a lasting finish – a lasting ambassador of modern Umbria. SUPERIORE.DE

When Ferruccio Ferragamo took over the dilapidated Borgo from the Duke of Savoy-Aosta in 1993, it was more than just a property purchase. It was, as he himself put it, "an act of faith". Thirty years on, the house's flagship wine embodies this spirit in every bottle: a commitment to uncompromising elegance. Its creation was preceded by a meticulous geological study. Each grape variety was planted where the soil best brings out its strengths: Merlot for velvety opulence, Cabernet Sauvignon for structure and depth, Syrah for freshness and aromatic lift. Separate vinification, followed by blending – a blend that bears the hallmark of the Valdarno. The wines mature for eighteen months in French oak – the Merlot partly in larger casks to preserve its fruit, the Cabernet and Syrah in first- and second-use barriques. The result is neither a copy nor a rival to Bolgheri or Chianti, but something entirely unique.

In 1994, whilst Lodovico Antinori was searching for suitable land to expand his Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, he discovered, almost by chance, the hills of Bibbona that were to reshape his destiny as a winemaker. What he found there was not just land – it was a revelation. The soils, a complex symphony of clay and the legendary Bolgheri conglomerate, the orientation of the slopes, the salty breezes from the Tyrrhenian Sea – everything spoke a different language to the familiar Ornellaia terroir. Too different, too wild, too full of character to be a mere extension. And yet too fascinating to let go of.

Acininobili Bianco Passito is a stunning interpretation of the indigenous Vespaiola grape, offering impressive depth, complexity and personality. It is a superb dessert wine made from grapes that were air-dried for up to 120 days after harvest and developed Botrytis cinerea during the careful appassimento process. Basically, the same Vespaiola grapes are used here that are used for Torcolato. At the end of the drying process, the grapes that have developed noble rot are hand-selected and passed into this precious wine. If the noble rot does not appear, this wine is not made.

Contrada Rampante is one of the highest and most renowned vineyards on the north-east slope of Mount Etna. At around 1,000 metres above sea level, Nerello Mascalese thrives here on volcanic sandy soils with a high lava content – a terroir of rare expressiveness that combines cool nights, long vegetation cycles and extreme slopes. The vines are over 100 years old – partly ungrafted – produce small-berried, concentrated grapes. After fermentation in cement, the wine matures for around 12 months in large wooden barrels and then for several months in the bottle.

Brilliant, rich ruby-garnet colour. Inviting nose with multi-layered notes of ripe plums, blackberries and a hint of fine leather. Juicy, ripe fruit in the attack, opens up with powerful, well-integrated tannins, savoury and long, firm pressure. A real long-liver from the top year 2019. SUPERIORE.DE